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Member Since: Jan 3, 2010
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Gunkswest
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Total Points: 5,920
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1172 | Routes 397 | Areas 60 | Photos 189 | Page Improvements 17 | Comments 54 | Posts 20 | Stars 416 | Ratings 19
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Keeler Needle : Harding Route (5.10+) : Photo
By: Gunkswest When: Jul 3, 2016

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Comments: A bit more about Ken Cook from Chauncey ("Chuck") Parker (Chauncey IV) this morning:

"Kenny and I climbed together a lot at Tahquitz through the 1970s. Kenny was one of my favorite climbing partners and an important mentor.

Steve Barker of Eagle Creek, ran the mountain shop, The Mountain People, in Idyllwild at the time. He employed both Kenny and me at the shop and with the Idyllwild Mountaineering Institute teaching and guiding."


... more >>


Location: Asia : Laos : Vang Vieng : Pha Deang Mountain
By: Gunkswest When: Jun 17, 2016

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Comments: Paul Turecki and Kirsten Kremer were some of the first folks to climb at Pha Deang Mountain. In 1999 and 2000, they established numerous lines at Pha Deang without placing bolts, several of which were later bolted and are now popular sport routes on the Main Wall.

See the 2002 American Alpine Journal for more info:

publications.americanalpineclu...


Location: NH : WM: Zealand Road / Notch : Sugarloaf : Middle Sugarloaf / Main Fac... : Bullit - P1 Original F.A. S... (5.6 R)
By: Gunkswest When: May 26, 2016

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Comments: Correct FA name spellings are Chris Taylor (from NH seacoast) and Rich Couchon (from RI).


Location: NH : WM: Zealand Road / Notch : Sugarloaf : Middle Sugarloaf / Main Fac... : Bullit - with Alternate Sla... (5.9 PG13)
By: Gunkswest When: May 26, 2016

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Comments: Named for a long link of expended .223 rounds found at the base during the FA (presumably from a SAW) and the movie (well known at the time for its car chase).

FA names correctly spelled are Chris Taylor (from NH seacoast), Rich Couchon (from RI).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Mind over Splatter (5.10a PG13)
By: Gunkswest When: May 20, 2016

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Comments: This route pretty much starts in the same spot as Space Walk. Both routes start about 40 feet up and right of Head Over Heals.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : ... : Photo
By: Gunkswest When: May 19, 2016

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Comments: The line drawn in this photo replicates what is in the Vogel JT West guide, but this isn't the line most folks actually climb.

Most people jog right and follow the crack up to the fixed anchor.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Head Over Heals (5.10a)
By: Gunkswest When: May 19, 2016

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Comments: There's a very good second pitch to this route.

From the fixed anchor atop the first pitch, step right and climb the steep hand crack up the wall above to another fixed anchor (5.10a).

Rappel from the upper anchor straight down a chimney to the ground (a 50m rope works).

Note that this upper crack/second pitch can be toproped from the upper fixed anchor after doing Farewell to Poodles or any of the other crack climbs to the left of Head Over Heals. You would climb the junky chimney (as for t... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Mind Over Matter (5.10a/b R)
By: Gunkswest When: May 19, 2016

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Comments: A big chunk of the down-facing flake that you use just after the initial ceiling broke off. The chunk is currently sitting at the base of the route covered in chalk. Not sure if this changes the difficulty, but be forewarned...


Location: NH : WM: Crawford Notch : Webster Slabs : 1. Lost and Found Slab
By: Gunkswest When: May 9, 2016

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Comments: My bet is if someone went up there with bolts (or boldness), there would be other routes on the slab.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Golden Years (5.9+)
By: Gunkswest When: May 3, 2016

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Comments: There used to be a fixed pin or two before the bolt. These are now gone.

The best bits of crack leading up to the bolt (where the pin[s] were) is parallel-sided, and unfortunately, smaller than the smallest BD 3 cam units (grey and purple).

Heaven help you if you came off above the bolt and it failed, as the nuts leading up to the bolt likely wouldn't save you...

At the top of the vertical crack system (shared by this route and Feltonian Physics), many people go up and left, to finish on Poo... more >>


Location: Europe : Greece : Athens : Filopappou
By: Gunkswest When: Apr 27, 2016

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Comments: Climbs here generally face south. In hot weather, you'd only want to visit early in the morning or in the evening. There are some trees for shade, but they don't extend up very high and the cliff is generally concave, making it a bit of a solar oven.

There are at least three sectors:

Leftmost area (to left of large iceberg shaped boulder) has at least a couple bolted climbs.

Red sector (routes currently described in this route section) is to the right of the large iceberg shaped boulder. Cli... more >>


Location: Europe : Greece : Athens : Filopappou : Photo
By: Gunkswest When: Apr 27, 2016

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Comments: This is the view of the crag as approaching up the trail from the theatre parking lot on the south side of the hill.

The red sector of the crag is to the right of the large boulder in the center of the photo, although there are some number of climbs on the leftmost portion of the cliff in this photo.


Location: Europe : Greece : Athens : Filopappou : Photo
By: Gunkswest When: Apr 27, 2016

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Comments: To the left of this photo is the theatre parking area. This trail entrance is at the lower right portion of the parking area.

If you were to take a taxi from the Acropolis Museum or Plaka area, you would likely be coming in from the right of this photo.


Location: Europe : Greece : Athens : Filopappou : Photo
By: Gunkswest When: Apr 27, 2016

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Comments: This photo is of the red sector and is looking from route "1" toward route "6."

The approach from the theatre parking area would be to the photographer's back.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : AFPA Rock : Boulder Face (5.7)
By: Gunkswest When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: Correct spelling of the route name is "Bolder Face."


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Batline Dome : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Gunkswest When: Apr 8, 2016

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Comments: A Batline is attached to the Batarang.


Location: North America : Mexico : Central Mexico : Aculco : El Nopal : La Muralla de los Sentidos (5.10c)
By: Gunkswest When: Jan 10, 2016

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Comments: The bottom of the route (the initial off-fingers crack) is "tricky;" the middle section is wide hands (bring a couple blue Camalots) and the final 20+ feet of this route (the upper stemming corner) is pretty hard and not particularly well protected (at least PG and some will say PG13/R). Unless you are climbing solid 5.11, it's likely you'll do a bit of whining/whimpering if you try and on-sight the route...

Even if you elect to just TR this route, you are in for a delicious treat!!!... more >>


Location: North America : Mexico : Central Mexico : Aculco : El Nopal : El Nopal (5.10a/b)
By: Gunkswest When: Jan 10, 2016

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Comments: There are two variant starts to the route, both of which make the climb independent of La Muralla de los Sentidos.

1) 5.10b/c TR - Start on a boulder a few feet right of the start described. Step up from the boulder to gain a ledge. Step right a foot or two then climb directly up the shallow corner, using face holds and the arête to gain the base of the corner with the cactus.

2) 5.10a/b - Start on a boulder a few feet right of the start described. Step up from the boulder to gain a ledge. S... more >>


Location: North America : Mexico : Central Mexico : Peña de Bernal : Bernalina (5.8-)
By: Gunkswest When: Jan 10, 2016

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Comments: As of 01-2016:
Bernalina is a fun, moderate route to a great summit.

Start at the point where the main hiking trail meets the south face of Pena de Bernal. There's a small clearing just off the left side of the trail where you can gear up.

P1: Start by a tree at a six foot high crack/flake. Follow bolts up and left past an intermediate anchor to a second anchor (5.6 PG; 50m).

P2: Climb more or less straight up to another anchor. As you start the pitch, there's a bolt right above... more >>


Location: North America : Mexico : Central Mexico : Peña de Bernal
By: Gunkswest When: Jan 10, 2016

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Comments: As of 01-2016, you can easily rappel straight down from the top of the via ferreta with a single 60m rope.

As of 01-2016, here's the descent from the summit of Pena de Bernal:
A) From the top of Bernalina, et al, walk past the crosses and then follow an obvious path down and left around a small cliffband.
B) Scramble down right and then left around another small cliffband to a saddle.
C) Carefully descend about 25 vertical feet down a low-angled slab from the saddle to the top of an obvious... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Group Campsites Road : Group Campsite 1 : ... : Unknown Buttonhead/rivet ha... (5.7)
By: Gunkswest When: Dec 13, 2015

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Comments: Not bolted by Todd Swain. Two bolts were on the route before 03-28-1991.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Group Campsites Road : Group Campsite 1 : ... : Unnamed Chimney (5.2)
By: Gunkswest When: Dec 13, 2015

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Comments: FA (left Crack): Todd Swain, Randy Ziedberg & Andy Schenkel 03-28-1991 and named Drown Your Sorrows.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Group Campsites Road : Group Campsite 1 : ... : Easter Egg Hunt (aka Jaime ... (5.8)
By: Gunkswest When: Dec 13, 2015

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Comments: FA (TR): Todd Swain, Randy Ziedberg, Andy Schenkel, 03-28-1991 called Easter Egg Hunt. Rated 5.9+ on line TR'd.


Location: NH : WM: Crawford Notch : Mt. Willard : Gulley No.1 Buttress : Lead Poisoning (5.10 R)
By: Gunkswest When: Nov 9, 2015

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Comments: The name "Lead Poisoning" was meant as a pun, as the first pitch is fairly dangerous for the leader (the first bolt is 75 feet up and was hand drilled on the lead [with a lot of whimpering]). Hence, the correct pronunciation is "leed."

The FA did take three trips, as all the drilling (and spilling) was done by hand, free on the lead, while wearing "Shoenard" climbing shoes (better than RR's, but not as good as EBs for slabby face climbing).


Location: NH : WM: Crawford Notch : Mt. Willard : Main Slab : Time-Space Continuum aka ... (5.8 PG13)
By: Gunkswest When: Nov 9, 2015

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Comments: This route was originally called Ursa Minor (see first [1982] Webster guidebook page 199).

Much of the pitch above the overlap (P3) was originally climbed by Todd Swain & Mike Cody in 1980 as part of explorations for what ultimately became Ursa Major. Due to approaching darkness, Swain placed a single 1/4" bolt at the top of this pitch and rappelled off the bolt with plans to come back later and add another bolt to the belay. A week or two later, Ed Webster & Sue Patenaude paid a visit to the c... more >>


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