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Member Since: Jul 29, 2009
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 302
Total Points: 2,082
Last Year: 590
Last 30 Days: 84
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Gunkiemike been climbing?










Contributions


All 2128 | Routes 56 | Areas 4 | Photos 243 | Page Improvements | Comments 247 | Posts 1520 | Stars 58 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Kaaterskill Clove : The Ravines : Hillyer Ravine (WI3-4) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Feb 5, 2016

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Comments: In fact it's pitch 1. You can see the first pitch of "Hillyer Right" in the background. Both flows offer 3 pitches of grade 3 to 4, and are well worth doing.


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Kaaterskill Clove : Kaaterskill Falls : Kaaterskill Falls (WI4-5 X) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Feb 5, 2016

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Comments: It looks like someone retreated from the crux (rope in background on the main falls).


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Platte Clove : Devil's Kitchen : Dream a Little Dream (WI4+ M8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Feb 5, 2016

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Comments: I've been told that a big chunk of rock came off high on this route, and it's climbing closer to M8 now. (Admin - Thanks for the update. Lets keep an eye out and see if M8 stays the new consensus.)


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill
By: Gunkiemike When: Jan 29, 2016

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Comments: The guidebook is also available on EBay:

ebay.com/itm/A-Rock-Climbers-G...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Jackie (5.5) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Dec 22, 2015

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Comments: In fact she's on P2 of Classic.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Small Furry Mammals' Club (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: Dec 22, 2015

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Comments: I can't speak for anyone else, but I've done that line regularly anytime I have a TR set up on the pine tree. Good fun, but you need to work hard to stay left of TO near the top.

One can also TR a line left of Fingerlocks at 5.9, maybe 9+. Crux is first few moves.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Faithful Journey (5.8+)
By: Gunkiemike When: Dec 17, 2015

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Comments: With the anchor (bolts) atop P1 of Middle Earth now located several feet further left, I predict more folks will take a quick TR lap on this first pitch. And here's a suggestion - once you've done that, climb a line BETWEEN FJ and ME. Improbable but very satisfying smeary face climbing, felt 5.9ish. The rules are "if you used it to climb either of the other routes, you can't touch it".


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Peregrine (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: Dec 15, 2015

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Comments: There's still unstable rock above this route. It looks like a chunk came down within the last couple weeks.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Middle Earth (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: Dec 15, 2015

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Comments: We climbed this today, first time since the bolts went in. I was astounded to see the GT Ledge bolts are so far left of the usual line of the pitch. I know they were placed there to keep rapping climbers away from ascending climbers. But the problem is that leaders on P2 are going to angle leftwards to get to the bolts (and belay there). The problem is that this runs their rope across a pair of insecure 50+ lb blocks. One of these blocks in particular is sticking out and will surely snag th... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Annie Oh! (5.8+)
By: Gunkiemike When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: I re-climbed P1 yesterday, and I THINK a block just to the right of the line has broken off; the orange scar is easy to see. And it is in a spot where I recall getting a small nut. I may be wrong, but if I'm right, it's even more runout than before.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Upper South Corner Cliffs : Stand Your Ground (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: Dec 8, 2015

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Comments: The description says this is a 80 ft pitch, also that one can rap with a 60m rope. Why then does it also say there's 2 bolt anchor at 60m??


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Arch (5.5) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Dec 7, 2015

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Comments: Are you related to the legendary ADK explorer-climber Jim V?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Arch (5.5) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Dec 7, 2015

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Comments: Looks more like P1.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Unamed (5.3 PG13)
By: Gunkiemike When: Nov 29, 2015

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Comments: Add this route to your list of Hidden Gems. P1 is short and sweet; I'd call it 5.1 or 5.2. P2 is a definite sandbag, easily 5.4 or 5.5. It's just a grade easier than P2 of Marie (in the collective opinion of today's party). WELL worth doing.


Location: General Climbing : I'm looking for pictures of... : Post : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 29, 2015

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Comments: Definitely Gunks. Looks like P1 of Middle Earth.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Jim's Gem (5.8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 27, 2015

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Comments: P1 is at least as enjoyable as Modern Times. Maybe a bit dirty up high (exit to the GTL at the short, left-facing corner) but definitely a good ride.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Lost and Found (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 27, 2015

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Comments: I climbed this today and really enjoyed the challenge (!) of getting gear in the lower section. I know I tried to climb the pitch several years ago by going straight up the thin seams that are directly above as you exit the overhang. I don't remember exactly what happened on that earlier attempt except that I DID NOT LIKE the moves up the seam. So heed the book and traverse left along the overhang (or take V1).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : The Last Will Be First (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 27, 2015

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Comments: I've always considered the 1st pitch as sort of a "final exam for the 5.6 leader" (for the reasons mentioned in the above comments). P2 is also excellent; don't miss it, but check the book description AND PHOTO carefully so you don't get lost (easy to do up there). You want to start about 18-20 ft right of the bolts.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK ... : The Playground : Photo (Copy)
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 15, 2015

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Comments: The route is "Dharmakaya", 10c


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Lost T : Emily Doesn't Have a Clue (5.8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 13, 2015

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Comments: Bring big cams.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Lost T : Spelunking Midget (5.10b)
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 13, 2015

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Comments: Much more enjoyable than Freckles.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Good Luck Mountain : Talking Heads (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 13, 2015

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Comments: The start can be difficult to locate. "Tree filled gully" describes 3 or 4 different lines in there.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Good Luck Mountain : Lady Luck (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 13, 2015

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Comments: It was lichen-free in "98 and "99. Still clean in "15. And ditto about there being no clear fist crack. Could it be that the OP was in the wrong place? It's a fact that the guidebook topo is REALLY not to scale when it comes to the left end of the GL cliff. And there are several semi-attractive lines going up there that are not in the book. One of which starts as - surprise - a fist crack.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Good Luck Mountain : Mystery Achievement (5.9)
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 13, 2015

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Comments: Agreeing with Nick's comment...because in reality (IMO anyway) this crack IS 5.10.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Dir... (5.7+) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 8, 2015

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Comments: Notice that he has his hands on the "upper rail" above that little overhang. IME many people get in trouble on this traverse b/c they try to keep their handholds on the same level all the way across, even as these get, shall we say, inadequate. Reaching up a bit makes life SO much easier on the last 1/3 of the traverse.


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