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Member Since: Jul 29, 2009
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact Gunkiemike

Point Rank: # 247
Total Points: 2,545
Last Year: 808
Last 30 Days: 93
22 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Gunkiemike been climbing?










Contributions


All 2503 | Routes 63 | Areas 5 | Photos 312 | Page Improvements | Comments 280 | Posts 1778 | Stars 65 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Faithful Journey (5.8+)
By: Gunkiemike When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Another observation on FJ's 3rd pitch - the "horn" (Swain's guidebook) that signaled where to pull the overhang on this route has broken off some time ago. I kind of suspected it as I looked up there on previous visits. But I climbed it today and confirmed that that very useful feature is indeed no longer there. A minor point perhaps; the heavy lichen above the move suggests this pitch doesn't... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Faithful Journey (5.8+)
By: Gunkiemike When: 6 days ago

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Comments: We noticed today that the bolts have been removed from the GT Ledge at Wise Crack/Bombs Away/Middle Earth. They have also been removed from the top of the route (slings and rings are back on the pine tree). I'm 100% in favor of removing those poorly placed bolts on the GTL. As I posted earlier this year, their location to the left of ME's 2nd pitch effectively routes the rope and climbers across a slew of deadly loose blocks, a few of which have already... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : In the Silly (5.3)
By: Gunkiemike When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: There's only one tree up there now - and it's alive - so Imagine the infamous "dying tree" is gone. Also, the pitch is now a good 125' long rather than the 100' given in the guidebook (and here). A 60m rope still suffices for the rap.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : The Good, The Bad, and The ... (5.8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 26, 2016

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Comments: Another vote for doing it "from the base". A long pitch with varied climbing and numerous challenges. Reminiscent of the Gunks' "Last Will be First" (though harder of course).

There was no sling on the tree 20' down from the top (nor should there be IMO) today, but a 70m rope from the hemlock atop the route got us down to the base of Bozeman Bullet. There was enough extra rope that I suspect a... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : New Buck : J. D. Memorial Route (5.10b)
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: Super, super thin past the first two bolts. I TR'ed this and couldn't find any hold that I would be able to make the clips from. Fun though.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : New Buck : Tuesday Layback (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: Felt easier than 7, but I can see how the "mantle" could be tricky.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : New Buck : Autopilot (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: Fantastic line. Deserves more stars than Jim/Jeremy gave it. If you're struggling on this you need to work on your jamming.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Tanager Face : Lifelong Affliction (5.8+)
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: Gotta disagree big time with Kevin on this.

CAUTION - beta follows.

I "walked into" the lower part of the crack as he suggests, and it was awkward, off-balance, and super reachy (nb - I have probably 6" less wingspan than him). Ended up moving leftwards to the crack in what could be be called an unexpected dynamic move. Plus, the gear for this, if you can get it, is placed blindly. The real gear is behind you in the corner and the fall backward... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 30, 2016

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Comments: How many tugs on the rope should the fallen second do to communicate "I've fallen off the move but if you could please lower me about 6 feet I'll give it another shot"?


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Shanty Cliff : Life and Debt (5.8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jun 30, 2016

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Comments: The crux moves are quite unlike most Shanty routes - more balancey and incremental. Make sure you eyeball the face (e.g. from LGD) and know where the anchor is, or else you might get suckered into trending left up high, over toward the anchor for Hard Times, since that comes into view before the L&D anchor.

Gear - small wires helpful.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Shanty Cliff : Vernal Imperatives (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jun 30, 2016

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Comments: I find this route every bit as delightful as Little Gem Diner, maybe even more so (more thoughtful than LGD).


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Shanty Cliff : Soweto (5.8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jun 30, 2016

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Comments: This is probably my favorite route at Shanty. Continuous challenge, outrageous holds, solid gear of all types, great view from the top.

Descent - I don't know if it's feasible to reach down to any of the anchors on the Rocina wall (never tried it). I've walked off the left end of the cliff (bring your approach shoes up with you) as well as walking around climbers' right to get to the Vernal Imperative anchor.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Region : The Barkeater Cliff : Mr. Clean (5.8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jun 28, 2016

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Comments: I disagree with the gear description: I STRONGLY recommend doubles - at least - in gold and blue Camalots.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Wop Stop (5.6 PG13)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jun 17, 2016

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Comments: You forgot to add that there's not really any good gear for the anchor atop P1.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Unknown (5.10+)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jun 9, 2016

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Comments: This is a TERRIFIC line. Start in the pit behind the block and weave up, left, up, right, up, up.

Varied footwork, good crimps, continuous thoughtful moves. All in all I think it's a much better route than Phoebe just to the right. (Disclaimer - I've only TR'ed it. I think it would be a serious if not dangerous lead) I don't believe it's 10+ though. More like 9+, possibly 10a if reach is an... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Unknown (5.10+) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Jun 7, 2016

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Comments: For more on this, see the route "Unknown" which Optimistic posted.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK ... : c. The Clamshell Wall : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: May 25, 2016

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Comments: A big heel hook move directly off that big boulder would be the start to "Hooker". Which isn't named after anyone you know. :-)


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Belleview : ... : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: May 25, 2016

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Comments: I don't carry C3s, and was hopeful that I could make do here in other ways. Ended up with 2 lobes of the smallest (silver) Metolius Powercam and a blue BallNut. The latter was the better piece. It was a real comfort to learn that the moves above this gear are not the crux. Also, if you look closely at the crack in person and compare it to this photo, a bit of the upper edge of the crack was split off. Hopefully no one blew a piece of gear out of there.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Belleview : ... : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: May 25, 2016

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Comments: This is the second pitch (as described here and in AR book).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Bombs Away Dream Baby (5.7+)
By: Gunkiemike When: May 19, 2016

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Comments: PSA - read the comment I just posted under Middle Earth about a dangerous situation involving recent rockfall from the GT Ledge area of this route.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill
By: Gunkiemike When: May 12, 2016

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Comments: Peterskill app is released today! Another great product from the GunksApp guys.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Mitosis (5.11d) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: May 12, 2016

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Comments: Why am I not surprised that it's a red rope? I'm convinced there was a bad batch or red yarn on the market a few years ago; the problems with it were not confined to Petzl.


Location: Lis Cordner : Pictures : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: May 8, 2016

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Comments: Great photo - only in the Gunks would a pair of beefy stainless bolts be backed up with a pink Tricam!


Location: Europe : Belgium : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Apr 29, 2016

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Comments: Actually it is open for climbing. At least it was when I went through there 15 (yikes!) years ago.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill
By: Gunkiemike When: Apr 27, 2016

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Comments: Crak - you thinking of Bro Crack?

mountainproject.com/v/bro-crac...


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