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Member Since: Jul 29, 2009
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 513
Total Points: 1,165
Last Year: 156
Last 30 Days: 5
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1207 | Routes 41 | Areas 3 | Photos 110 | Page Improvments | Comments 160 | Posts 850 | Stars 43 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Sleepwalk (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: P1 may be a good "breaking into the grade" pitch, but IMO that's because it's no harder than 5.6. Sure, you can make it harder by skipping holds, but the reality is there are good holds for every move if you just look a couple feet to either side.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: That's just sick, that's what.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Te Dum (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 23, 2014

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Comments: There's no fixed anchor at the tree any more. Probably a good thing all around.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Layback (5.5)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 23, 2014

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Comments: I watched a climber today do the layback section without laybacking. It was unreal. She just face climbed the wall immediately left of the layback crack/corner. As for the start, a very small wire can be placed about halfway up to the pin on the 5.7 face variation, and a 00 TCU or equivalent a couple feet higher.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Farewell to Arms (5.8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: Preserve rules allow for the pin to be replaced. Anyone know what it was?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Higher Stannard (5.9-)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: If you're too short to grab the fingerholds on the left (original) start, don't hesitate to cheat a bit. There used to be a tree there (it's dead and lying downhill below you) and one could step off the tree to take the sting out of that first move. So by cheating a bit you're really just keeping the route to its original character. Don't worry about it too much; there's plenty of challenge on the face above.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Warpath (5.9-)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jun 15, 2014

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Comments: The moves off the belay to start P2 are pretty challenging, and it's a big reach for me (5 ft 9) to clip the pin. But after that it's just SO good.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Annie Oh! (5.8+)
By: Gunkiemike When: May 18, 2014

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Comments: P1 is always a test of where my lead head is at. The 40-50 ft at the start with no pro is only just the first mental test. Small gear, a couple wires, tiny cams...you get to climb quite a long ways (15' or so) above a blue Alien. The holds are all there and are nicely positive. But you def. want a cool head on this pitch.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : V-3 (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: May 18, 2014

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Comments: Just FYI - a climber prying out a stuck nut today broke off part (a small part) of the two-handed jug you use to pull into the V. It's not any harder now, just a liitle different. And the broken edge may be a bit harsh on the hands until it gets a lot more traffic.


Location: NV : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: May 1, 2014

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Comments: Looks pretty run out.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Annie Oh! (5.8+) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: How do we know it fell out by itself? As opposed to someone tossing it off some rainy off-season evening and not telling anyone?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Directissima (5.9) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: Is there a climber in this photo?


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: That sucker is JACKED.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Coyne Crack (5.12a) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 21, 2014

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Comments: It doesn't look like he was too solid on that part. :-)

I agree that whipping on the first and only piece is pretty scary.


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Platte Clove : Devil's Kitchen : 2nd Corner (WI4)
By: Gunkiemike When: Feb 25, 2014

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Comments: There's a bolted anchor atop this corner.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Sky Top : Crash and Burn (5.9+ R)
By: Gunkiemike When: Feb 15, 2014

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Comments: Anyone can climb at Skytop legally...you just need to pay a lot of money. So the question becomes, how badly do you want it?


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Stony Clove : Stony Clove - West Side : Little Black Dike (WI4)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jan 30, 2014

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Comments: Two options for anchor tree up top: 1) step right to the tree close to the lip. 2) continue straight up past roots for 25 ft beyond the top of the ice. This tree provides a better located rope for the second or subsequent TR. BUT a 70m rope is REQUIRED.

If the mud isn't frozen solid, either of these finishes will be extremely insecure.


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Stony Clove : Stony Clove - West Side : The Gurgler (WI3)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jan 30, 2014

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Comments: I don't think I've ever seen ice on the top-out of this route. Be forewarned!


Location: VT : Vermont Ice Climbing : Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : Ragnarock (WI4+ M4)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jan 29, 2014

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Comments: So why isn't there an M grade for this route?


Location: VT : Vermont Ice Climbing : Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah : Last Gentleman (WI5) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Jan 29, 2014

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Comments: Heh, that's right where I set up the belay. Got hit by a sh:t-ton of ice as my partner led the next pitch.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond... : Dogleg Right (WI3+) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Jan 14, 2014

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Comments: That's pretty fat. Prepare to find it a bit thinner, typically.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond... : Ice Slot (WI4-)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jan 14, 2014

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Comments: When the central pillar isn't big enough, you can go up and left a bit then make a pin-protected high step back right. This turned out to be a critical move for me a year ago after a cold spell (-18 F) stressed the aforementioned pillar. To me, it just looked sketchy and I wanted nothing to do with it. Sure enough, a climber shortly afterwards committed to it, with rather disastrous results (pillar shattered, broken arm).


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond... : Crystal Ice Tower (WI4) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Jan 14, 2014

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Comments: Yea, this pitch gets my vote for "most likely to be a kicked-out pegboard" anywhere. But hey, sometimes ya just gotta take yer lumps and hook up something.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond... : Crystal Ice Tower (WI4) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Jan 14, 2014

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Comments: There is only one pitch.


Location: Juggler : Personal : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Jan 13, 2014

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Comments: Ah, thanks for clarifying. Too bad SRSP isn't a few thousand feet higher elevation.


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