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Member Since: Jul 29, 2009
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Gunkiemike

Point Rank: # 281
Total Points: 2,272
Last Year: 645
Last 30 Days: 16
21 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Gunkiemike been climbing?










Contributions


All 2317 | Routes 56 | Areas 4 | Photos 278 | Page Improvements | Comments 262 | Posts 1659 | Stars 58 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Bombs Away Dream Baby (5.7+)
By: Gunkiemike When: 5 days ago

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Comments: PSA - read the comment I just posted under Middle Earth about a dangerous situation involving recent rockfall from the GT Ledge area of this route.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill
By: Gunkiemike When: May 12, 2016

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Comments: Peterskill app is released today! Another great product from the GunksApp guys.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Mitosis (5.11d) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: May 12, 2016

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Comments: Why am I not surprised that it's a red rope? I'm convinced there was a bad batch or red yarn on the market a few years ago; the problems with it were not confined to Petzl.


Location: Lis Cordner : Pictures : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: May 8, 2016

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Comments: Great photo - only in the Gunks would a pair of beefy stainless bolts be backed up with a pink Tricam!


Location: Europe : Belgium : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Apr 29, 2016

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Comments: Actually it is open for climbing. At least it was when I went through there 15 (yikes!) years ago.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill
By: Gunkiemike When: Apr 27, 2016

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Comments: Crak - you thinking of Bro Crack?

mountainproject.com/v/bro-crac...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Clover (5.7+ PG13)
By: Gunkiemike When: Apr 14, 2016

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Comments: The delicate steps leftward along the slopey ramp 10 ft up can be protected with a blue Ball Nut. First time I placed that piece on lead - woo hoo! A nice lead to test where my head is at (the upper crux is a bit committing).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : RMC (5.5)
By: Gunkiemike When: Apr 6, 2016

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Comments: That alternative start (up the stacked blocks to the right) is in fact the original line of the climb, and is A LOT easier than the crack/cramped move start that 90% of folks seem to do nowadays.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Betty (5.3)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 30, 2016

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Comments: Update - the "direct variation" that kenr describes for P2 is likely to become more common now that top anchor bolts have been installed where this variation puts you. AFAIK topping out in the chimney i.e. the original 3rd pitch, puts you in a no man's land where your options are to walk off or do a short rap/downclimb past the barrier rope to get to the bolts. For this reason some might say the bolts were put in the wrong place, but since I prefer the direct P3, I'm OK with where they are. M... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Bloody Mary (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 30, 2016

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Comments: tk - that's V1 as described in the Gray Dick. He gives it 5.8+


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Rusty Jam (5.9) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 26, 2016

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Comments: Props for leading it. It's a fun line, and I suspect if it were anywhere but the Gunks it would be quite popular. But show most Gunkies a wide vertical crack and they run away.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Bunny (5.5)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 25, 2016

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Comments: > My First trad lead. It's an okay route but I made it fun and ran it out a lot.

NOT recommended. First trad leads are all about placing LOTS of gear. (You need the practice. Doesn't matter what grade you sport lead or TR)


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK ... : The Playground : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 19, 2016

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Comments: Sit on top of this thing to get a great photo of someone climbing Dharmakaya just to your left.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK ... : The Clamshell Wall : On Another Man's Wound (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 19, 2016

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Comments: This is the route "Little Neck-y" in the book. It's a good one.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 19, 2016

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Comments: The guidebook should be available by now at the PK office. So convenient! The app will be out later this Spring. Mid-May maybe.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Hoffman Notch
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 9, 2016

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Comments: Under the best of trail conditions, it takes me an hour to reach the Waterfall Wall. On snowshoes in significant snow depth, it can be closer to 90 minutes. The other areas mentioned, starting with the Wall of Excuses, are several minutes closer.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond... : Whales in the Jungle (WI3)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 2, 2016

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Comments: Look for this to fatten up (relatively) after one of those freak February rainstorms.

Also, if you go to the sling anchor at the top of the ice, it's about 120 feet; a 60m rope definitely does NOT suffice. Use a 70 and knot the ends or walk over to the Lions anchor(s).


Location: General Climbing : What knot would you use? : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Feb 17, 2016

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Comments: If that's a top-roping anchor, it's not extended over the edge. Also, with just one biner, it's not redundant (as one component of a multi-piece anchor, one biner is OK).

Knotwise, no problem.


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Kaaterskill Clove : The Ravines : Hillyer Ravine (WI3-4) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Feb 5, 2016

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Comments: In fact it's pitch 1. You can see the first pitch of "Hillyer Right" in the background. Both flows offer 3 pitches of grade 3 to 4, and are well worth doing.


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Kaaterskill Clove : Kaaterskill Falls : Kaaterskill Falls (WI4-5 X) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Feb 5, 2016

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Comments: It looks like someone retreated from the crux (rope in background on the main falls).


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Platte Clove : Devil's Kitchen : Dream a Little Dream (WI4+ M8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Feb 5, 2016

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Comments: I've been told that a big chunk of rock came off high on this route, and it's climbing closer to M8 now. (Admin - Thanks for the update. Lets keep an eye out and see if M8 stays the new consensus.)


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Jackie (5.5) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Dec 22, 2015

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Comments: In fact she's on P2 of Classic.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Small Furry Mammals' Club (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: Dec 22, 2015

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Comments: I can't speak for anyone else, but I've done that line regularly anytime I have a TR set up on the pine tree. Good fun, but you need to work hard to stay left of TO near the top.

One can also TR a line left of Fingerlocks at 5.9, maybe 9+. Crux is first few moves.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Faithful Journey (5.8+)
By: Gunkiemike When: Dec 17, 2015

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Comments: With the anchor (bolts) atop P1 of Middle Earth now located several feet further left, I predict more folks will take a quick TR lap on this first pitch. And here's a suggestion - once you've done that, climb a line BETWEEN FJ and ME. Improbable but very satisfying smeary face climbing, felt 5.9ish. The rules are "if you used it to climb either of the other routes, you can't touch it".

May 2016 adding - several large (2-3 ft) blocks have come down from immediately below the (new) bolts on th... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Peregrine (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: Dec 15, 2015

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Comments: There's still unstable rock above this route. It looks like a chunk came down within the last couple weeks.


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