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Member Since: Jul 29, 2009
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Gunkiemike

Point Rank: # 280
Total Points: 2,268
Last Year: 645
Last 30 Days: 34
21 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Gunkiemike been climbing?










Contributions


All 2298 | Routes 56 | Areas 4 | Photos 278 | Page Improvements | Comments 258 | Posts 1644 | Stars 58 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Europe : Belgium : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Actually it is open for climbing. At least it was when I went through there 15 (yikes!) years ago.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill
By: Gunkiemike When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Crak - you thinking of Bro Crack?

mountainproject.com/v/bro-crac...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Clover (5.7+ PG13)
By: Gunkiemike When: Apr 14, 2016

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Comments: The delicate steps leftward along the slopey ramp 10 ft up can be protected with a blue Ball Nut. First time I placed that piece on lead - woo hoo! A nice lead to test where my head is at (the upper crux is a bit committing).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : RMC (5.5)
By: Gunkiemike When: Apr 6, 2016

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Comments: That alternative start (up the stacked blocks to the right) is in fact the original line of the climb, and is A LOT easier than the crack/cramped move start that 90% of folks seem to do nowadays.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Betty (5.3)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 30, 2016

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Comments: Update - the "direct variation" that kenr describes for P2 is likely to become more common now that top anchor bolts have been installed where this variation puts you. AFAIK topping out in the chimney i.e. the original 3rd pitch, puts you in a no man's land where your options are to walk off or do a short rap/downclimb past the barrier rope to get to the bolts. For this reason some might say the bolts were put in the wrong place, but since I prefer the direct P3, I'm OK with where they are. M... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Bloody Mary (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 30, 2016

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Comments: tk - that's V1 as described in the Gray Dick. He gives it 5.8+


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Rusty Jam (5.9) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 26, 2016

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Comments: Props for leading it. It's a fun line, and I suspect if it were anywhere but the Gunks it would be quite popular. But show most Gunkies a wide vertical crack and they run away.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Bunny (5.5)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 25, 2016

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Comments: > My First trad lead. It's an okay route but I made it fun and ran it out a lot.

NOT recommended. First trad leads are all about placing LOTS of gear. (You need the practice. Doesn't matter what grade you sport lead or TR)


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK ... : The Playground : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 19, 2016

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Comments: Sit on top of this thing to get a great photo of someone climbing Dharmakaya just to your left.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK ... : The Clamshell Wall : On Another Man's Wound (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 19, 2016

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Comments: This is the route "Little Neck-y" in the book. It's a good one.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 19, 2016

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Comments: The guidebook should be available by now at the PK office. So convenient! The app will be out later this Spring. Mid-May maybe.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Hoffman Notch
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 9, 2016

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Comments: Under the best of trail conditions, it takes me an hour to reach the Waterfall Wall. On snowshoes in significant snow depth, it can be closer to 90 minutes. The other areas mentioned, starting with the Wall of Excuses, are several minutes closer.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond... : Whales in the Jungle (WI3)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 2, 2016

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Comments: Look for this to fatten up (relatively) after one of those freak February rainstorms.

Also, if you go to the sling anchor at the top of the ice, it's about 120 feet; a 60m rope definitely does NOT suffice. Use a 70 and knot the ends or walk over to the Lions anchor(s).


Location: General Climbing : What knot would you use? : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Feb 17, 2016

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Comments: If that's a top-roping anchor, it's not extended over the edge. Also, with just one biner, it's not redundant (as one component of a multi-piece anchor, one biner is OK).

Knotwise, no problem.


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Kaaterskill Clove : The Ravines : Hillyer Ravine (WI3-4) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Feb 5, 2016

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Comments: In fact it's pitch 1. You can see the first pitch of "Hillyer Right" in the background. Both flows offer 3 pitches of grade 3 to 4, and are well worth doing.


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Kaaterskill Clove : Kaaterskill Falls : Kaaterskill Falls (WI4-5 X) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Feb 5, 2016

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Comments: It looks like someone retreated from the crux (rope in background on the main falls).


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Platte Clove : Devil's Kitchen : Dream a Little Dream (WI4+ M8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Feb 5, 2016

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Comments: I've been told that a big chunk of rock came off high on this route, and it's climbing closer to M8 now. (Admin - Thanks for the update. Lets keep an eye out and see if M8 stays the new consensus.)


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Jackie (5.5) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Dec 22, 2015

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Comments: In fact she's on P2 of Classic.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Small Furry Mammals' Club (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: Dec 22, 2015

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Comments: I can't speak for anyone else, but I've done that line regularly anytime I have a TR set up on the pine tree. Good fun, but you need to work hard to stay left of TO near the top.

One can also TR a line left of Fingerlocks at 5.9, maybe 9+. Crux is first few moves.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Faithful Journey (5.8+)
By: Gunkiemike When: Dec 17, 2015

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Comments: With the anchor (bolts) atop P1 of Middle Earth now located several feet further left, I predict more folks will take a quick TR lap on this first pitch. And here's a suggestion - once you've done that, climb a line BETWEEN FJ and ME. Improbable but very satisfying smeary face climbing, felt 5.9ish. The rules are "if you used it to climb either of the other routes, you can't touch it".


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Peregrine (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: Dec 15, 2015

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Comments: There's still unstable rock above this route. It looks like a chunk came down within the last couple weeks.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Middle Earth (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: Dec 15, 2015

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Comments: We climbed this today, first time since the bolts went in. I was astounded to see the GT Ledge bolts are so far left of the usual line of the pitch. I know they were placed there to keep rapping climbers away from ascending climbers. But the problem is that leaders on P2 are going to angle leftwards to get to the bolts (and belay there). The problem is that this runs their rope across a pair of insecure 50+ lb blocks. One of these blocks in particular is sticking out and will surely snag th... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Annie Oh! (5.8+)
By: Gunkiemike When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: I re-climbed P1 yesterday, and I THINK a block just to the right of the line has broken off; the orange scar is easy to see. And it is in a spot where I recall getting a small nut. I may be wrong, but if I'm right, it's even more runout than before.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Upper South Corner Cliffs : Stand Your Ground (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: Dec 8, 2015

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Comments: The description says this is a 80 ft pitch, also that one can rap with a 60m rope. Why then does it also say there's 2 bolt anchor at 60m??


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Arch (5.5) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Dec 7, 2015

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Comments: Are you related to the legendary ADK explorer-climber Jim V?


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