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Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Kaaterskill Clove : Buttermilk Falls : Buttermilk Falls (WI3-4)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ryan - there's a full page map in the Catskill Ice guidebook that makes the location of Buttermilk and the other Rt 23A climbs very clear.
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Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Kaaterskill Clove : Buttermilk Falls : Buttermilk Falls (WI3-4) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, that's pitch 4.
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Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Poultry Pillar - Wedding Wa... : Opuntia (5.10a) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Butt shot !
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Location: WY : Cody : South Fork Shoshone (Ice) : High on Boulder (WI4) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beautiful shot. Looks like it's about to get THIN.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Crane Mountain : Southeast Slopes : ... : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Aw c'mon, give the kid some real tools.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Crane Mountain : Southeast Slopes : ... : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great shot! It captures what it means to be out there having a good time even if it's not a "bluebird day". (And that's more the norm for the ADKs, right?)
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Crane Mountain : Southeast Slopes : ... : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm guessing this photo was NOT taken anywhere near Jan 30 of this year.
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Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Stony Clove : Stony Clove - West Side : Climax (WI2+) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climax on the R (the wide flow), Ice Capades on the L looking rather bony in the middle section.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Shanty Cliff
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has anyone climbed the fingers-to-hands jamcrack through the big overhang that is basically a direct start to Circuitous Shit?
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Shanty Cliff : Little Gem Diner (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Per the guidebook, and what I saw there, you tackle the crux bulge via the LEFT of the pair of cracks.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Shock Treatment (5.12+) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Sep 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great shot, but I can't help but notice the belayer's bent-over position. I'd be hitting the Ibuprofen pretty hard in the evening if I had to belay like that. (Yea, OK, so maybe that's why I don't climb 12+)
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: Sep 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry to burst your bubble Stitch, but grooves in horizontals are scars from years of angle piton use. Cam lobes won't groove Gunks stone.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Bunny (5.6) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Sep 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: He really needs to adjust that helmet so it rides properly on his head.
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Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Kaaterskill Clove : Moore's Bridge : Moore's Bridge - Gully (WI2... (WI2-3)
By: Gunkiemike When: Sep 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is closer to 130 feet and a 60m rope will NOT suffice for the rap. You can still do it, but rap first down the steep upper part to the tree on the right, then to the road. Slings are usually in place to allow this.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks : Wright Peak
By: Gunkiemike When: Sep 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Members of the Clarkson Outing Club climbed there a fair bit back in the late 70's. No specific FA data from that era...sorry. I don't think we did anything harder than 5.7 though.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It (5.8+)
By: Gunkiemike When: Sep 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Armed with neither route info or a large cam, I led this via a satisfying combination of both options at the start - I scampered up right and hand traversed left on the horizontal to get a good couple nuts in the crack as close to the OW as I could. Then I downclimbed to the base and climbed directly up the wide crack as a not-bad-at-all layback. Agree with the 8ish rating for this pitch.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Sleepy Hollow (5.8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Sep 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another vote for 8+ for the right-hand finish. Impressive line with lots of thoughtful moves from the bottom to the very last.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Sleepy Hollow (5.8) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Sep 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice photo. That speckled rock in the foreground is testament to the massive de-lichening effort that this fine climb required.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Critical Crimps (5.10a) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Sep 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Doesn't even look like C. Crimps, but maybe the fisheye effect is throwing me off.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Arietta Region : Lost T : Freckles and No Lipstick (5.9)
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found this to be significantly harder than Little Kisses. And, for the record, I was happy to stick clip the first bolt.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Arietta Region : Lost T : The Dike (5.8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Even slower to dry than Wide Crack.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : LA Roof : LA Roof (5.13b)
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Because the Lost Arrow pin(s) that protect the route were removed a long while ago.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : The Golden Wall : Sinister Urge (formerly SLA... (5.13a PG13)
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice job!!
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Rogers Rock
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can rap the trees with just one rope.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Bonnie's Roof (5.9) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Note to anyone checking out this pitch - this shot is pure showboatin'. There is no need to go feet-free whatsoever. (But it does suggest that the handholds there are pretty good)
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