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Member Since: Jul 29, 2009
Last Visit: 46 mins ago
Contact Gunkiemike

Point Rank: # 361
Total Points: 1,666
Last Year: 508
Last 30 Days: 22
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1625 | Routes 52 | Areas 4 | Photos 180 | Page Improvements | Comments 186 | Posts 1149 | Stars 54 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Pony Express (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: 1 day ago

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Comments: You don't go to the to "top of the corner" on Horseman. It's barely a bodylength up the corner as I recall (and per the guidebook photo).

This is an old route that's hard to justify with today's climber traffic being as heavy as it is.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ursula (5.5)
By: Gunkiemike When: 1 day ago

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Comments: The tree in the above 2 comments is now dead. Probably will be useably solid for another year though.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Cool Hand Dukes (5.8) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Very dramatic bit of climbing up there. It's like the steep part of Madame G, on steroids.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Front C (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: 5 days ago

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Comments: From what I've seen, guides like it also, as it avoids the risk of putting clients on the traverse of LeG's 2nd pitch. (Plus, it's much better climbing)


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Le Gourmet Direct (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: 5 days ago

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Comments: I would say that while this is a good-to-very-good pitch, it is absolutely NOT a 5.6. So if you're looking for, say, a 5.7 challenge, get on it. The gear is decent, if varied and challenging at times. (I was working hard to sew it up but my second said everything was bomber) The climbing was "thoughtful", and that's good for the lead head once in a while I suppose. Bottom line - I'm really glad I did it.

Calling this a 5.6 helps substantiate Seneca's rep for sandbag grading. My home crag ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Maria (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: May 12, 2015

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Comments: I KNOW this reply is 2 years late, but I want to address Divnamite's question about linking 3 pitches with a 70m rope. I suspect the cord will be long enough, but you must understand that the second will have ABSOLUTELY no security through the difficult moves of Maria Direct. A crash pad MAY be sufficient there (the ground under the tricky start is pretty flat, as I recall), but realize it's going to be a ground fall until your feet are above the pin. I know the usual advice - squat a few ti... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : s. The Golden Wall : The Golden Dream (5.9+)
By: Gunkiemike When: May 12, 2015

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Comments: Esuf - the internet isn't the place to learn how to set up a TR on bolts (or otherwise use them in the course of your climbing); I think if you go take a look at the route and the bolts, you'll understand what's needed. If not, consider spending a day with someone who can teach you the basics.

I'll just point out that the bolts are Peterskill are generally NOT the sort you'd find atop a sport route, where you can often drop the rope in a pair of shuts (or hooks or fixed biners) and ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Black Fly (5.5)
By: Gunkiemike When: Apr 3, 2015

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Comments: Much better to walk off to climbers' RIGHT.


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Platte Clove : Dark Side
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 21, 2015

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Comments: To approach the LOWER Dark Side, park at the red artists' cabin and descend there to the stream a short ways below Plattekill Falls. Cross the stream and follow the right bank downstream until you see the brink of the next waterfall (upper Bridalveil). Continue on a mostly level track past this until it's easy to angle downhill. In a couple minutes you'll come to the right end of the lower DS cliffband. Cross under the flows with extreme care (crampons on!) as the slope below you is steep en... more >>


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Platte Clove : Black Chasm : Black Chasm Falls (WI3)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: It's a bit silly to include in the route description how many screws this climb will take. It's highly variable, to say the least.


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Platte Clove : Black Chasm
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: The turn off to descend to the Chasm is not AFTER the leanto, but a couple 100 yds before it. Just after the second trail comes in on the right, as I recall. I've never been there when it wasn't well tracked and therefore hard to miss. (Administrator: Thanks Mike - fixed in route description)


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Platte Clove : Devil's Kitchen : Snotcicle (WI3+) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 4, 2015

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Comments: I believe this is a photo of The Snotcicle. StH is about 100 ft to the right.


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Kaaterskill Clove : Kaaterskill Falls : Kaaterskill Falls (WI4-5 X)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 4, 2015

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Comments: If you're not intimidated by this pitch, you're just not paying attention!

If this is on your tic list, be patient and wait for it to come into something resembling safe condition. It might take a few years...


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Kaaterskill Clove : Kaaterskill Falls : Kaaterskill Falls - Lower (WI3)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 4, 2015

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Comments: This was the only time I ever incorporated a bollard in my anchor. There really is nothing solid up there.


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Kaaterskill Clove : Moore's Bridge : Moore's Bridge - Center (WI... (WI3-4)
By: Gunkiemike When: Feb 4, 2015

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Comments: A 70m rope is needed to rap from the large tree atop the corner. There is usually a sling anchor here.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Twilight Zone (5.13b C1)
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: C0, really? If C designated clean aid (it does) and otherwise parallels A ratings for (typically) hammered placements, then C0 would, according to the sources I'm familiar with, mean pulling on gear with no need for aiders. That is certainly not the case here. I know it can be easy aid up there when the pieces are all there, but then it would be C1, no?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Twilight Zone (5.13b C1) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 18, 2014

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Comments: Yup. Liza Schwartz in the b/g.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Sugarloaf : Superman Flake (5.8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: Yea, it's not there; what's left of it is hanging in my garage. I think a SMC-type baby angle might work better in there. Until then, Ball-Nut it is. It protects a sketchy move but it's just a few feet off a flat spot, and you get the next gear as soon as you commit to the step up IIRC.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : i. Terror Dome : A Portrait of the Artist as... (5.8+)
By: Gunkiemike When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: I don't remember any "vertical crack in the face" on the lower part of this route. Once you're on the face (I make the big step off the block on the left onto the arete) it's basically just moving from horizontal to horizontal (with gear in each one). The upper face is steep so getting the gear requires a bit of stamina, but it was more than adequate; I think I placed two stoppers and a couple cams in that last 20 feet. Overall a very good face climb.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK ... : The Clamshell Wall : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: Aug 31, 2014 there's an active nest of bees in the ground at the top of this route. If you're looking to set an anchor using the oak trees up there, you'll likely stir them up.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Thelma (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: Bolts 2 and 3 are spinners.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Overhanging Layback (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 19, 2014

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Comments: There is now nothing left of the tree at 80 ft comprising the "optional belay" that the grey Dick mentions. There's a clump of medium-size trees w/ rap slings 20 ft higher, and a 60m rope will get you down from there.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Shanty Cliff : Soup Kitchen (5.10a)
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 16, 2014

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Comments: If you've got the reach at the second bolt (you'll know if you do or not!), then this route is probably 5.9.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Shelving Rock : Neanderthal Cave : Breaking Bad (5.8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: There's a new route (Aug 2014) with dark green hangers immediately right of this route. It might share the start (I didn't notice) but it trends rightward starting at the cedar tree, and the bolts continue higher than the Breaking Bad anchor. I couldn't see where the route ends. I climbed as much as I could while lowering off B.B. and it felt 5.8 - 5.9, but as I said, there's more climbing above.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Shelving Rock : Main Wall : Rock Lobster (5.9+)
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: The phrase "steep and dramatic" comes to mind.


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