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Member Since: Jul 29, 2009
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Gunkiemike

Point Rank: # 269
Total Points: 2,402
Last Year: 738
Last 30 Days: 29
21 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Gunkiemike been climbing?










Contributions


All 2394 | Routes 59 | Areas 4 | Photos 296 | Page Improvements | Comments 272 | Posts 1702 | Stars 61 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Shanty Cliff : Life and Debt (5.8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jun 30, 2016

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Comments: The crux moves are quite unlike most Shanty routes - more balancey and incremental. Make sure you eyeball the face (e.g. from LGD) and know where the anchor is, or else you might get suckered into trending left up high, over toward the anchor for Hard Times, since that comes into view before the L&D anchor.

Gear - small wires helpful.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Shanty Cliff : Vernal Imperatives (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jun 30, 2016

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Comments: I find this route every bit as delightful as Little Gem Diner, maybe even more so (more thoughtful than LGD).


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Shanty Cliff : Soweto (5.8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jun 30, 2016

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Comments: This is probably my favorite route at Shanty. Continuous challenge, outrageous holds, solid gear of all types, great view from the top.

Descent - I don't know if it's feasible to reach down to any of the anchors on the Rocina wall (never tried it). I've walked off the left end of the cliff (bring your approach shoes up with you) as well as walking around climbers' right to get to the Vernal Imperative anchor.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Region : The Barkeater Cliff : Mr. Clean (5.8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jun 28, 2016

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Comments: I disagree with the gear description: I STRONGLY recommend doubles - at least - in gold and blue Camalots.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Wop Stop (5.6 PG13)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jun 17, 2016

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Comments: You forgot to add that there's not really any good gear for the anchor atop P1.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Unknown (5.10+)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jun 9, 2016

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Comments: This is a TERRIFIC line. Start in the pit behind the block and weave up, left, up, right, up, up.

Varied footwork, good crimps, continuous thoughtful moves. All in all I think it's a much better route than Phoebe just to the right. (Disclaimer - I've only TR'ed it. I think it would be a serious if not dangerous lead) I don't believe it's 10+ though. More like 9+, possibly 10a if reach is an... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Unknown (5.10+) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Jun 7, 2016

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Comments: For more on this, see the route "Unknown" which Optimistic posted.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK ... : The Clamshell Wall : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: May 25, 2016

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Comments: A big heel hook move directly off that big boulder would be the start to "Hooker". Which isn't named after anyone you know. :-)


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Belleview : ... : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: May 25, 2016

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Comments: I don't carry C3s, and was hopeful that I could make do here in other ways. Ended up with 2 lobes of the smallest (silver) Metolius Powercam and a blue BallNut. The latter was the better piece. It was a real comfort to learn that the moves above this gear are not the crux. Also, if you look closely at the crack in person and compare it to this photo, a bit of the upper edge of the crack was split off. Hopefully no one blew a piece of gear out of there.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Belleview : ... : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: May 25, 2016

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Comments: This is the second pitch (as described here and in AR book).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Bombs Away Dream Baby (5.7+)
By: Gunkiemike When: May 19, 2016

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Comments: PSA - read the comment I just posted under Middle Earth about a dangerous situation involving recent rockfall from the GT Ledge area of this route.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill
By: Gunkiemike When: May 12, 2016

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Comments: Peterskill app is released today! Another great product from the GunksApp guys.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Mitosis (5.11d) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: May 12, 2016

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Comments: Why am I not surprised that it's a red rope? I'm convinced there was a bad batch or red yarn on the market a few years ago; the problems with it were not confined to Petzl.


Location: Lis Cordner : Pictures : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: May 8, 2016

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Comments: Great photo - only in the Gunks would a pair of beefy stainless bolts be backed up with a pink Tricam!


Location: Europe : Belgium : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Apr 29, 2016

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Comments: Actually it is open for climbing. At least it was when I went through there 15 (yikes!) years ago.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill
By: Gunkiemike When: Apr 27, 2016

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Comments: Crak - you thinking of Bro Crack?

mountainproject.com/v/bro-crac...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Clover (5.7+ PG13)
By: Gunkiemike When: Apr 14, 2016

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Comments: The delicate steps leftward along the slopey ramp 10 ft up can be protected with a blue Ball Nut. First time I placed that piece on lead - woo hoo! A nice lead to test where my head is at (the upper crux is a bit committing).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : RMC (5.5)
By: Gunkiemike When: Apr 6, 2016

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Comments: That alternative start (up the stacked blocks to the right) is in fact the original line of the climb, and is A LOT easier than the crack/cramped move start that 90% of folks seem to do nowadays.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Betty (5.3)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 30, 2016

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Comments: Update - the "direct variation" that kenr describes for P2 is likely to become more common now that top anchor bolts have been installed where this variation puts you. AFAIK topping out in the chimney i.e. the original 3rd pitch, puts you in a no man's land where your options are to walk off or do a short rap/downclimb past the barrier rope to get to the bolts. For this reason some might say the bolts were put in the wrong place, but since I prefer the direct P3, I'm OK with where they are. M... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Bloody Mary (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 30, 2016

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Comments: tk - that's V1 as described in the Gray Dick. He gives it 5.8+


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Rusty Jam (5.9) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 26, 2016

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Comments: Props for leading it. It's a fun line, and I suspect if it were anywhere but the Gunks it would be quite popular. But show most Gunkies a wide vertical crack and they run away.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Bunny (5.5)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 25, 2016

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Comments: > My First trad lead. It's an okay route but I made it fun and ran it out a lot.

NOT recommended. First trad leads are all about placing LOTS of gear. (You need the practice. Doesn't matter what grade you sport lead or TR)


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK ... : The Playground : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 19, 2016

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Comments: Sit on top of this thing to get a great photo of someone climbing Dharmakaya just to your left.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK ... : The Clamshell Wall : On Another Man's Wound (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 19, 2016

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Comments: This is the route "Little Neck-y" in the book. It's a good one.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 19, 2016

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Comments: The guidebook should be available by now at the PK office. So convenient! The app will be out later this Spring. Mid-May maybe.


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