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Member Since: Jul 29, 2009
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 357
Total Points: 1,730
Last Year: 538
Last 30 Days: 29
14 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1710 | Routes 55 | Areas 4 | Photos 182 | Page Improvements | Comments 210 | Posts 1202 | Stars 57 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Dis-Mantel (5.10)
By: Gunkiemike When: 17 hours ago

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Comments: The grey Dick describes a second pitch at 5.7 PG. It's easily reached from the easier climbs (i.e. easier than 5.10) on either side of the big Mantle block. It goes up what looks to be an attractive piece of rock. The moves approaching the "first crux" overhang are fairly dirty however, and that's followed by a 5.5ish runout that is squarely in the R category IMO (DW calls it PG). Nice climbing however, so if you're looking for something to do after exhausting the Raunchy/Wild Horses lines, ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Mount Evans, North Face : The Snave Direct (Easy 5th WI3-4 Steep Snow) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: 3 days ago

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Comments: The wall left of Snave has a few excellent 5.6 (ish) cracks, from hands to offwidth/chimney size. Easily accessed from above if you, ya know, DROVE up there.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : ... : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Hysterical.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : The Cave Exit (5.7+)
By: Gunkiemike When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Why isn't this description in the J Crack Slab section? Those are the routes that end at the Cave, no?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Pear Buttress (5.8+)
By: Gunkiemike When: 3 days ago

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Comments: I read all the mp.com info on this route before climbing it. My 2 cents: the flake start isn't any harder than 5.8, and the "twin crack" move of P1 isn't any harder than several other spots of this route (you just need to use both cracks). The short, steep corner move near the end of P3 (above the traverse R) was at least as tough, and came as a bit of a surprise.

The Cave Exit also doesn't seem to get the attention it deserves, though this was more of an issue with a couple hardcopy guideboo... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : ... : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: 3 days ago

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Comments: I have short arms and legs and found both the stem over to the flake, and the reach into the crack at that point to be signif. harder than 5.7, and it wasn't just the scare factor, as I was on TR for those moves. They are just insecure and IMO dangerous if you're leading.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : ... : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: 3 days ago

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Comments: IMO, a fall from the "step over to the flake" move of the right-hand start would be crippling, like, end-of-your-climbing-career serious. That's not PG-13, that's R/X. Again, my opinion, having done both starts.

I got three decent pieces in the left start before starting the layback. My belayer and I agreed I would not hit the ground if I fell at any point before placing the 4 inch cam when the crack narrowed to that width.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : East Face (Standard) (5.4)
By: Gunkiemike When: 6 days ago

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Comments: PSA - Green's 2011 "Best Climbs, Denver and Boulder" guidebook shows (p. 53) this route starting approx. 300 feet lower than where it does at the East Bench. That erroneous photo led us on a 2 hour goosechase this morning. Absolutely inexcusable to F up the location of a classic route like that. Older guidebooks locate the route properly; Green is moving guidebook quality in the wrong direction.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Sugarloaf : Soul Confusion (5.10b) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 18, 2015

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Comments: That's some World Class granite right there. So rough, so pink.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Sugarloaf : Soul Confusion (5.10b) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 18, 2015

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Comments: After you've climbed SC's 2nd pitch, your eyes will naturally be drawn up toward the spectacular third pitch. But if you look down, there is this crack.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Sugarloaf : Soul Confusion (5.10b) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 18, 2015

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Comments: Hands on the ledge? Or feet? It works either way.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Sugarloaf : Soul Confusion (5.10b)
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 18, 2015

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Comments: Folks need to heed the description of the start carefully, as there's a new bolted line going in just 30' or so to the right. No details yet about what that route is, but it's NOT Sole Confusion.

Other "new route" info - About 80' left of the start of Confusion is a narrow slab of clean rock (note - at Sugarloaf, this is a "relative" term) that reaches the ground. Climb the trees immediately left of this slab until a crack is reached. It will be reached on the L edge of the rock "about 5 tre... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Sugarloaf : Superman Flake (5.8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 18, 2015

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Comments: The pin at the start of the overlap moves of P2 has been replaced. But bring a red (or the next larger size) BallNut if you have one, just in case this new pin doesn't like that perpetually wet crack any more than the old one did.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : h. Choss Wall
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: There's 2 or 3 routes in the 5.6 range on that wall to the right of Genuflect. I especially like the one that's 20ft to the right and starts as a pair of cracks up the steep lower face. Nice juggy, secure climbing through there.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Statebrook : Uncle Hal's Arete (5.8 PG13)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: Great route. I thought it was G rated gear-wise (not the stated PG), but maybe I drifted a bit too far right in the last few bodylengths, as there was a beautiful 1" crack leading to a spot even with, but a few feet right of, the anchors. Or maybe the very thin crack halfway up the route where I got in a couple red X4s was the "PG spot". Whatever, loved the pitch.

One dis - it's the only route I've done there where the top anchor in not well suited for lowering. It's a pair of beefy links t... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Statebrook
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: Good directions in the online guide; trail was easy to follow. Many THANKS to the crew that developed this fine cliff! It's a significant addition to ADK climbing. I'll be back!

Just a thought - bring a wrench. The bolts are new and we found a couple loose nuts (6th bolt in the Sully's chimney, and one of the drop-ins at the right-most route).

Also, the cliff faces NW and doesn't get the sun until around 3 PM, so it's a good spot for hot days.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Statebrook : Hollie's High Step (5.8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: Yea, I placed big gear on this pitch! The top 1/3 of the route is simply fantastic.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Statebrook : The Inverted Englishman (5.8-)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: I was able to get a very good #1 Camalot in the crack above the crux overhang. I had a big (4") cam on me but really couldn't see that being the best piece for that move.

No problem passing the tree. I did sling it though.

Nicest route we did on the cliff today IMO.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Southern Mountains : Statebrook : The Success of Sully's Brid... (5.7+)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: I find chimneys SO spooky, especially wide ones like this. There's just so much AIR under you.

Glad to see the + added to the grade, but what do I know; I get wigged out by chimneys. Fantastic line though.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Millbrook : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: Is there fixed hardware there? If not, what's so special about that spot?

And where is it in relation to the dead W.H. rap tree?


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK ... : The Fortress : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: This is a better view of the 5.8+ route in the other photo.

You can alternatively finish several feet to the right of where the climber is, about where the ceiling tapers down to a reasonable size, but it's harder (solid 10) and non-obvious. And really wouldn't work at all if you were leading the pitch.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK ... : The Fortress : Photo (Copy)
By: Gunkiemike When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: You can't really see the crack I'm on in this photo, but this is a really good line. Crack to corner capped by ceiling (pass on left). 5.8+ G ***


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Trapped Like a Rat (5.7+)
By: Gunkiemike When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: A well-known sandbag of a pitch. IMO you want to be solid leading 5.8 before tackling this one.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Eyesore (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: I really liked this route. I think it deserves to be in bold (i.e. recommended) in the grey Dick book. But I also agree with Swain's rating of 6+ for the pitch.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Pony Express (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: May 22, 2015

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Comments: You don't go to the to "top of the corner" on Horseman. It's barely a bodylength up the corner as I recall (and per the guidebook photo).

This is an old route that's hard to justify with today's climber traffic being as heavy as it is.


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