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Member Since: Jul 29, 2009
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 367
Total Points: 1,644
Last Year: 495
Last 30 Days: 102
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1594 | Routes 52 | Areas 4 | Photos 178 | Page Improvements | Comments 179 | Posts 1127 | Stars 54 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Black Fly (5.5)
By: Gunkiemike When: Apr 3, 2015

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Comments: Much better to walk off to climbers' RIGHT.


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Platte Clove : Dark Side
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 21, 2015

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Comments: To approach the LOWER Dark Side, park at the red artists' cabin and descend there to the stream a short ways below Plattekill Falls. Cross the stream and follow the right bank downstream until you see the brink of the next waterfall (upper Bridalveil). Continue on a mostly level track past this until it's easy to angle downhill. In a couple minutes you'll come to the right end of the lower DS cliffband. Cross under the flows with extreme care (crampons on!) as the slope below you is steep en... more >>


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Platte Clove : Black Chasm : Black Chasm Falls (WI3)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: It's a bit silly to include in the route description how many screws this climb will take. It's highly variable, to say the least.


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Platte Clove : Black Chasm
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: The turn off to descend to the Chasm is not AFTER the leanto, but a couple 100 yds before it. Just after the second trail comes in on the right, as I recall. I've never been there when it wasn't well tracked and therefore hard to miss. (Administrator: Thanks Mike - fixed in route description)


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Platte Clove : Devil's Kitchen : Snotcicle (WI3+) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 4, 2015

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Comments: I believe this is a photo of The Snotcicle. StH is about 100 ft to the right.


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Kaaterskill Clove : Kaaterskill Falls : Kaaterskill Falls (WI4-5 X)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 4, 2015

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Comments: If you're not intimidated by this pitch, you're just not paying attention!

If this is on your tic list, be patient and wait for it to come into something resembling safe condition. It might take a few years...


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Kaaterskill Clove : Kaaterskill Falls : Kaaterskill Falls - Lower (WI3)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 4, 2015

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Comments: This was the only time I ever incorporated a bollard in my anchor. There really is nothing solid up there.


Location: NY : Catskills (Ice) : Kaaterskill Clove : Moore's Bridge : Moore's Bridge - Center (WI... (WI3-4)
By: Gunkiemike When: Feb 4, 2015

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Comments: A 70m rope is needed to rap from the large tree atop the corner. There is usually a sling anchor here.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Twilight Zone (5.13b C1)
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: C0, really? If C designated clean aid (it does) and otherwise parallels A ratings for (typically) hammered placements, then C0 would, according to the sources I'm familiar with, mean pulling on gear with no need for aiders. That is certainly not the case here. I know it can be easy aid up there when the pieces are all there, but then it would be C1, no?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Twilight Zone (5.13b C1) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 18, 2014

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Comments: Yup. Liza Schwartz in the b/g.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Sugarloaf : Superman Flake (5.8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: Yea, it's not there; what's left of it is hanging in my garage. I think a SMC-type baby angle might work better in there. Until then, Ball-Nut it is. It protects a sketchy move but it's just a few feet off a flat spot, and you get the next gear as soon as you commit to the step up IIRC.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : i. Terror Dome : A Portrait of the Artist as... (5.8+)
By: Gunkiemike When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: I don't remember any "vertical crack in the face" on the lower part of this route. Once you're on the face (I make the big step off the block on the left onto the arete) it's basically just moving from horizontal to horizontal (with gear in each one). The upper face is steep so getting the gear requires a bit of stamina, but it was more than adequate; I think I placed two stoppers and a couple cams in that last 20 feet. Overall a very good face climb.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK ... : The Clamshell Wall : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: Aug 31, 2014 there's an active nest of bees in the ground at the top of this route. If you're looking to set an anchor using the oak trees up there, you'll likely stir them up.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Thelma (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: Bolts 2 and 3 are spinners.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Overhanging Layback (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 19, 2014

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Comments: There is now nothing left of the tree at 80 ft that the grey Dick mentions. There's a clump of medium-size trees w/ rap slings 20 ft higher, and a 60m rope will get you down from there.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Shanty Cliff : Soup Kitchen (5.10a)
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 16, 2014

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Comments: If you've got the reach at the second bolt (you'll know if you do or not!), then this route is probably 5.9.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Shelving Rock : Neanderthal Cave : Breaking Bad (5.8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: There's a new route (Aug 2014) with dark green hangers immediately right of this route. It might share the start (I didn't notice) but it trends rightward starting at the cedar tree, and the bolts continue higher than the Breaking Bad anchor. I couldn't see where the route ends. I climbed as much as I could while lowering off B.B. and it felt 5.8 - 5.9, but as I said, there's more climbing above.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Shelving Rock : Main Wall : Rock Lobster (5.9+)
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: The phrase "steep and dramatic" comes to mind.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Classic (5.7) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: ...and is called "Jasmine".


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Sleepwalk (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: P1 may be a good "breaking into the grade" pitch, but IMO that's because it's no harder than 5.6. Sure, you can make it harder by skipping holds, but the reality is there are good holds for every move if you just look a couple feet to either side.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: That's just sick, that's what.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Te Dum (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 23, 2014

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Comments: There's no fixed anchor at the tree any more. Probably a good thing all around.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Layback (5.5)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 23, 2014

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Comments: I watched a climber today do the layback section without laybacking. It was unreal. She just face climbed the wall immediately left of the layback crack/corner. As for the start, a very small wire can be placed about halfway up to the pin on the 5.7 face variation, and a 00 TCU or equivalent a couple feet higher.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Farewell to Arms (5.8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: Preserve rules allow for the pin to be replaced. Anyone know what it was?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Higher Stannard (5.9-)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: If you're too short to grab the fingerholds on the left (original) start, don't hesitate to cheat a bit. There used to be a tree there (it's dead and lying downhill below you) and one could step off the tree to take the sting out of that first move. So by cheating a bit you're really just keeping the route to its original character. Don't worry about it too much; there's plenty of challenge on the face above.


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