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Member Since: Jan 31, 2008
Last Visit: Jun 26, 2010
Contact gregybn

Point Rank: # 7,900
Total Points: 60
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has gregybn been climbing?


All 16 | Routes 2 | Areas 2 | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 10 | Posts | Stars 2 | Ratings

Contributed Comments


Location: MT : Stone Hill : Holds Up Bluff North : Cripple Crack (5.7)
By: gregybn When: Apr 8, 2008

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Comments: A blocky crack and ledge route... takes nice cam placements all the way (great for beginning leaders)... an interesting mini-roof move at the crux that protects very well (I think with a #3 Friend)... then run out the low angle crack to the top.

Location: MT : Stone Hill : Holds Up Bluff North : Fear and Smear (5.9)
By: gregybn When: Apr 8, 2008

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Comments: Yeah... short & fun!
But, I seem to remember a couple bomber nut placements in the thin vertical crack?
BTW... the gully just to the right - before Cripple Crack - is about a 5.0 scramble (OK, maybe 4th class?) up to the anchors... to set top-ropes for any climbs on the first level of H.U.B. North.

Location: MT : Stone Hill : Hold Up Bluffs South : Great Escape (5.8)
By: gregybn When: Apr 8, 2008

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Comments: A nice short climb with lots of variety... A good practice lead, warm-up, or top-rope.
Starts with an easy slab, good pro in horizontal and vertical cracks.
I put in a bolt to protect the move left, up a short ramp, into the corner - not a difficult move, but a slip there would give a long fall down the slab.
I also put in a bolt for the "escape" out of the corner... it can be protected with a cam, but the tendency was to go too high into the corner and it made for a difficult exit left. The bol... more >>

Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Purcell Mountains : ... : North Howser Tower
By: gregybn When: Feb 18, 2008

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Comments: I worked with Ward Robinson in the early 90's... by then, he had opted out of this kind of way-radical climbing in favor of his marriage and raising his family...but in his best days, he was a very modest and generally unrecognized Canadian climber of amazing talent and ability.
This route was one of his best.

A tale of bivy near the summit of NHT... my girlfriend and I were once coming down from a climb on SnowPatch and met a couple young bucks who had summited the West face and spent a VERY ... more >>

Location: MT : Stone Hill
By: gregybn When: Feb 7, 2008

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Comments: We used to climb at StoneHills just about any month of the year.
Even in Sept/Oct... the warm S & W exposure gave many nice routes when the weather permitted.
I remember even climbing (very infrequently) in late Jan./early Feb - obviously the skiing must have been the shits, for me to search out the very few (warm?)climbs that were possible.
But hey... there are also a few nice ice-seeps that form up then for those who want some ice and mixed climbs
By March... (again, on days when I needed a ... more >>

Location: MT : Stone Hill : Hold Up Bluffs
By: gregybn When: Feb 7, 2008

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Comments: Man... how many hours/days/weeks/months/years were spent by yours truly at HUB in the 80's and 90s... (don't ask how many beers were consumed)
HUB was the "meeting place" for the whole area - which has grown extensively since I left in '97...
I was fortunate to call Stone Hills my local crag for many years - and to contribute (40-50 climbs?) to it's dynamic development.
If anyone posts reports on the StoneHills site and wants some background/history on my (or other) climbs, I'll try to check in... more >>

Location: MT : Stone Hill : Holds Up Bluff North : Block Dance (5.7)
By: gregybn When: Feb 7, 2008

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Comments: Paul was the MAN for a lot of years... a great trad climber who put up some real classics. The regular Fernie folks had a lot of fun climbing (and drinking beer) with him.
Block Dance was always a fun warm-up for other stuff around.
I put in Dance Direct... a few thin, bolt protected moves straight up the face, after the "block"... exit right to the crack when you start feeling insecure... I think the variation was rated 10a?

Location: MT : Stone Hill : Tip Toe Area : Rocky and Bullwinkle (5.8)
By: gregybn When: Feb 7, 2008

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Comments: This was the last of a series as I worked my way up the gully... I had fun putting in Left Slice and Right Hook... and saw one more nice looking face uphill (right).
The crux is at the start, an awkward move right, past the first bolt... after that, it's an enjoyable bolted face climb with some nice views as you get higher.

Location: MT : Stone Hill : Tip Toe Area
By: gregybn When: Feb 7, 2008

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Comments: Ron Clark and I climbed the obvious corner system... originally in early 80's??... it was a very grotty gear climb in a dirty corner... (can't even remember the name we gave it)... and TanMan was a second pitch we linked on the small buttress above.
Years later I contrived a new line which moved onto the left side of the corner, and bolted the face climb... then named it TipToe.
TanMan is now a less obvious second pitch, because you need to traverse a fair bit right to the start... but I also b... more >>

Location: MT : Stone Hill : Room with a View : Room with a View (2) (5.10a)
By: gregybn When: Feb 7, 2008

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Comments: When I first put up RWAV Direct... there was a big horizontal block at the start to move over and stand on. It used to be about 5.9 moving past the block in those days. The block fell off one spring and the moves up onto the face became a bit harder... consensus says 10a now.
Greg A.

BTW... one year a young guy was setting up a top-rope at the anchors of RWAV... for some reason he lost his balance and fell... very luckily he missed the flat area below the climb and landed on the (ugly) sloped g... more >>

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