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Member Since: Sep 2, 2012
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 11,366
Total Points: 28
Last Year: 14
Last 30 Days: 5
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 93 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 28 | Posts | Stars 60 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Slhanay (The Squaw) : Birds of Prey (5.10b)
By: gregman When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: The Select guidebook also details an alternative to the 4th/5th pitches of Birds of Prey called "Birds of the Sun" (aptly named if climbed in the morning because you'll be topping out with the sun in your eyes). We did this primarily because it had rained a few days earlier and the guide booked mentioned these last pitches were prone to seep.

Following the same first 3 pitches of Birds of Prey, you head up the face up and left from the anchors after the 5.9 traverse, with some sparse pro and a... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Quickdraw (5.11a)
By: gregman When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: Easy to link both pitches with a 70m (60m would probably also work). A reasonable alternative to get up to Blazing Saddles if Borderline is crowded or you want to do some sport climbing instead. Second pitch you can do from the face and only use the crack for an extra piece of pro to help out the follower.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Far Side : Gun Show : GS-9 (5.10c)
By: gregman When: Apr 8, 2016

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Comments: Fun and worth doing at least once on lead. Followers risk some bigger pendulums at the beginning ramp (first ~3 bolts), so they should be a confident 5.10 climber. You can't really easily keep a top rope on this because of the wandering nature of the route (it goes back up right again after the leftward ramp at the start), so I would not recommend this one for parties larger than two. The suggestion about the rope communication is spot on, and look out for that tree when setting up a rappel...tr... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Far Side : Gun Show : GS-7 (5.9)
By: gregman When: Apr 8, 2016

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Comments: Doesn't really seem worth doing with the two higher quality 5.9s on either side. It really stumped my buddy who is normally a solid 5.10- follower and good on slab, so if you are with a party of newer climbers, this should be avoided.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Far Side : Gun Show : Endless Bliss (5.9)
By: gregman When: Apr 8, 2016

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Comments: Waaay too many bolts. I found myself carrying up the quick draws quite often. I would also encourage you to do it all in one pitch and belay from the top, if you only have one partner, or just set up a TR on the first pitch if more than one. The first pitch is definitely worth doing, but the second is no harder than 5.7 and probably not worth the hassle of two rappels.


Location: North America : Puerto Rico : Cerro Las Tetas (Cayey, Pue... : Black Widow (5.10d)
By: gregman When: Dec 3, 2015

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Comments: Fun route with good views, also the only route we got on all day without any bees or wasps. Watch out for choss on the top pitch. Lowering the leader is definitely a good idea, as recommended in the book. No reason to hang out at the top of this one for an uncomfortable belay.


Location: North America : Virgin Islands : Virgin Gorda, BVI : Guavaberry Spring Bay Resor... : UG Boulder : UG Arete (V1)
By: gregman When: Dec 3, 2015

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Comments: If you stay to the right and traverse the top of the boulder around to the back, you can also easily downclimb and jump onto ground from a low scoop. Check this out before you do it, but it may be more comfortable for some folks instead of downclimbing this route.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall : Vudu Guru (5.11)
By: gregman When: Oct 6, 2015

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Comments: I've heard some people say you can use a 70m on this rope and reach the ground on rap, but we used an 80m and going over the face of life of ease/jug or not the rope only made it to the ground with the stretch. An alternative would be to rap to dreaming of a life of ease OR jug or not chains, or perhaps belay (on 60m) from son of jesus chains. It's also much easier to have someone follow to clean instead of lower to clean since there's no fixed biners at the top of this route and you'll need to ... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si : Midland : Lay of the Land (5.12a)
By: gregman When: Oct 6, 2015

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Comments: The 'top-out' is truly the crux on this climb! A lot of fun with an unusually consistent increase in difficulty as you ascend. Worth taking a detour from World Wall, especially if it's crowded! It's very well protected (at least now), needing 11 draws to reach the anchor. I would recommend unclipping the third to last bolt (on the right face of the arrete) or put a long draw on it, otherwise the gate will be pulled into the edge and contribute to drag for the last 2 bolts/anchor. There's also a ... more >>


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Alphabet Rock : Hind Quarters (5.10a)
By: gregman When: Oct 5, 2015

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Comments: I agree with the grade disputes. Even at 6', I was quite confused by the moves to get to the 5th bolt, and what I ended up doing was not 10a. If the rest of the climb were more difficult, it'd be easy to call this a 10c, but as it is, it's just a height dependent 10b most likely. Don't fear the smear!


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall : Bust the Move (5.12a)
By: gregman When: Sep 24, 2015

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Comments: I would recommend unclipping the first bolt once you clip the second one to make life easier on your belayer and reduce rope drag. Lots of ways to do the obvious crux at the fixed draw, but be sure to focus on getting your feet up!


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall : Megatherion (5.11b)
By: gregman When: Sep 4, 2015

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Comments: Quite fun alternative to the other 11b routes. Very different and with a distinct crux sequence. Don't stop paying attention after you've made it above the horn, the sequence is balance-y and has a few options...the fall risk isn't over :)

Definitely more like 12 bolts than 15, with fixed gear at the top for lowering, but use your own gear for TR. You can clean this on lower, and it's no more difficult than the other overhanging routes earlier on the wall, but it'd probably be easiest with a fo... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall : Dreaming of a Life of Ease (5.11c)
By: gregman When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: Second pitch is worth climbing for the 5.11 climber tryin to get stronger for the 12s at the wall. It's a little less pumpy and more techy than Abo/Psycho wussy, which is a nice change of pace. You can also approach with the 5.9 to the anchors and then go up and right onto the corner, following the fairly obvious bolt line.

I recommend unclipping and cleaning the first draw after the anchors once the following draw is placed and clipped, to reduce the drag, since you are in a good resting posi... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Princely Ambitions (5.9)
By: gregman When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: Even if you only plan to do the first pitch, I'd strongly recommend belaying your partner from the top. Not only will this ensure you have enough rope on a 60m or 70m, but the view is excellent and with a long enough clove hitch from your own rope + an ATC in guide mode, you can set up quite a comfortable belay station to watch your partner ascend, too.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : ** Bouldering in Icicle Cre... : The Sword/Underwear Rock : I <3 Jugs (V2)
By: gregman When: Mar 24, 2015

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Comments: Anyone know why there's an x on the left side pull halfway up the climb? You can do the climb without it, but it's not clear why this should be avoided...may just have been a poor way to mark it since you may not easily be able to locate it, but seems like a bad choice of marking either way.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Far Side : Neverland : ... : Lost My Marbles (5.10b/c)
By: gregman When: Jul 10, 2014

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Comments: If it weren't for that pesky crux right at the start...

Fortunately, the bolt is well placed, but may be a challenging clip if you are not very tall since the feet. It's also somewhat beta intensive (although we may have had a disadvantage because of the recent rain, which reduced some of our options), so don't be afraid to try a few different options...there's some good holds to help pull yourself up onto the slab, obtaining them just isn't extremely obvious from the ground.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Far Side : Neverland : ... : The Plank (5.10a)
By: gregman When: Jul 10, 2014

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Comments: Definitely rap directly down from the anchors of the 5.7 to the top of the multi-pitch 5.11 route, will save you significant pains of trying to rap down the route itself. From there, a 60m rope will just barely hit the ground, so only two rap's will be necessary.

The 5.10a has an obvious crux on the slab face with some fairly significant exposure, but has quite a few options for passing through it, so don't hesitate to try a few different things while on lead.

There can be some road noise on t... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Amazonia : Q.D. Pie (5.10a)
By: gregman When: Jul 10, 2014

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Comments: If you show up and the 5.9 is occupied, resist the temptation to warm up on this climb. Unless you know the beta well, you'll get pumped trying to figure out how to traverse far right to follow the flake to the chains. There's so many other high quality routes here that this one just isn't worth the time unless there's absolutely nothing else open.

Climbers were struggling on this one all day while we were there, with many trying to take the 10c (left route after second bolt) and transfer over... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Amazonia : Radioactive Decay (5.10b)
By: gregman When: Jul 10, 2014

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Comments: Pretty challenging and sustained 10b climbing through the first 4 clips or so, but once you get to the actual jug hold (you'll know it when you grab it), it's smooth sailing to the top with plenty of rests. Another tricky start to get onto the face, but fortunately not as bad as "I remember drooling", which is a positive in my opinion :)


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Amazonia : I Remember Drooling (5.10b)
By: gregman When: Jul 10, 2014

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Comments: The bolt right above the first move makes it well protected, but silly nonetheless. Puts a bit of a damper on what would otherwise be a great climb.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Far Side : Motherland : Sheltered Upbringing (5.10a/b)
By: gregman When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: Due to the big block beneath the anchors, it's challenging to rappel and clean your draws in the same go. It's ideal to ensure your partner or someone else in your group can clean and rap down on this one, otherwise you're bound to be playing with some serious swings.

Otherwise, a totally fun and worth-your-time route...seems appropriate for the grade.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si : Blackstone : Stepping Stones (5.10c)
By: gregman When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Really fun route, but beware you absolutely must have a 60m rope and be sure someone on the ground tells you your rope is down, as it will still barely make it...my friend actually had to hop off the bottom of the rope after rap'ing down! just a foot or so though :)


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si : Blackstone : The Big Easy (5.10a)
By: gregman When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Lots of fun, great warm up route. As shown in the link above, this route is actually the *2nd* route from the left side now. The end is a bit tricky, but just go for it and you'll find the holds are quite sufficient :)


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si : Blackstone : Blackstone 2 (5.8)
By: gregman When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Definitely run out between the 3 middle bolts, can be intimidating for newer leaders. Feels a lot harder than a 5.8 when the rock is wet; this area spends a lot of time in the shade, so it doesn't dry up quickly.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si : AWOL : Kinder, Gentler, Carpet Bom... (5.9)
By: gregman When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Great fun, lots of ways to go play here. Be careful if it has rained recently this area does not get a lot of direct sunlight, so the deeper cracks will stay wet for a while, and you'll need to use the ledges (and a few jugs) on the arrete instead.


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