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Member Since: Sep 2, 2012
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 12,086
Total Points: 23
Last Year: 10
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 72 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 23 | Posts | Stars 44 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: North America : Puerto Rico : Cerro Las Tetas (Cayey, Pue... : Black Widow (5.10d)
By: gregman When: Dec 3, 2015

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Comments: Fun route with good views, also the only route we got on all day without any bees or wasps. Watch out for choss on the top pitch. Lowering the leader is definitely a good idea, as recommended in the book. No reason to hang out at the top of this one for an uncomfortable belay.


Location: North America : Virgin Islands : Virgin Gorda, BVI : Guavaberry Spring Bay Resor... : UG Boulder : UG Arete (V1)
By: gregman When: Dec 3, 2015

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Comments: If you stay to the right and traverse the top of the boulder around to the back, you can also easily downclimb and jump onto ground from a low scoop. Check this out before you do it, but it may be more comfortable for some folks instead of downclimbing this route.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall : Vudu Guru (5.11)
By: gregman When: Oct 6, 2015

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Comments: I've heard some people say you can use a 70m on this rope and reach the ground on rap, but we used an 80m and going over the face of life of ease/jug or not the rope only made it to the ground with the stretch. An alternative would be to rap to dreaming of a life of ease OR jug or not chains, or perhaps belay (on 60m) from son of jesus chains. It's also much easier to have someone follow to clean instead of lower to clean since there's no fixed biners at the top of this route and you'll need to ... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si : Midland : Lay of the Land (5.12a)
By: gregman When: Oct 6, 2015

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Comments: The 'top-out' is truly the crux on this climb! A lot of fun with an unusually consistent increase in difficulty as you ascend. Worth taking a detour from World Wall, especially if it's crowded! It's very well protected (at least now), needing 11 draws to reach the anchor. I would recommend unclipping the third to last bolt (on the right face of the arrete) or put a long draw on it, otherwise the gate will be pulled into the edge and contribute to drag for the last 2 bolts/anchor. There's also a ... more >>


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Alphabet Rock : Hind Quarters (5.10a)
By: gregman When: Oct 5, 2015

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Comments: I agree with the grade disputes. Even at 6', I was quite confused by the moves to get to the 5th bolt, and what I ended up doing was not 10a. If the rest of the climb were more difficult, it'd be easy to call this a 10c, but as it is, it's just a height dependent 10b most likely. Don't fear the smear!


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall : Bust the Move (5.12a)
By: gregman When: Sep 24, 2015

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Comments: I would recommend unclipping the first bolt once you clip the second one to make life easier on your belayer and reduce rope drag. Lots of ways to do the obvious crux at the fixed draw, but be sure to focus on getting your feet up!


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall : Megatherion (5.11b)
By: gregman When: Sep 4, 2015

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Comments: Quite fun alternative to the other 11b routes. Very different and with a distinct crux sequence. Don't stop paying attention after you've made it above the horn, the sequence is balance-y and has a few options...the fall risk isn't over :)

Definitely more like 12 bolts than 15, with fixed gear at the top for lowering, but use your own gear for TR. You can clean this on lower, and it's no more difficult than the other overhanging routes earlier on the wall, but it'd probably be easiest with a fo... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall : Dreaming of a Life of Ease (5.11c)
By: gregman When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: Second pitch is worth climbing for the 5.11 climber tryin to get stronger for the 12s at the wall. It's a little less pumpy and more techy than Abo/Psycho wussy, which is a nice change of pace. You can also approach with the 5.9 to the anchors and then go up and right onto the corner, following the fairly obvious bolt line.

I recommend unclipping and cleaning the first draw after the anchors once the following draw is placed and clipped, to reduce the drag, since you are in a good resting posi... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Princely Ambitions (5.9)
By: gregman When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: Even if you only plan to do the first pitch, I'd strongly recommend belaying your partner from the top. Not only will this ensure you have enough rope on a 60m or 70m, but the view is excellent and with a long enough clove hitch from your own rope + an ATC in guide mode, you can set up quite a comfortable belay station to watch your partner ascend, too.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : ** Bouldering in Icicle Cre... : The Sword/Underwear Rock : I <3 Jugs (V2)
By: gregman When: Mar 24, 2015

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Comments: Anyone know why there's an x on the left side pull halfway up the climb? You can do the climb without it, but it's not clear why this should be avoided...may just have been a poor way to mark it since you may not easily be able to locate it, but seems like a bad choice of marking either way.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Far Side : Neverland : ... : Lost My Marbles (5.10b/c)
By: gregman When: Jul 10, 2014

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Comments: If it weren't for that pesky crux right at the start...

Fortunately, the bolt is well placed, but may be a challenging clip if you are not very tall since the feet. It's also somewhat beta intensive (although we may have had a disadvantage because of the recent rain, which reduced some of our options), so don't be afraid to try a few different options...there's some good holds to help pull yourself up onto the slab, obtaining them just isn't extremely obvious from the ground.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Far Side : Neverland : ... : The Plank (5.10a)
By: gregman When: Jul 10, 2014

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Comments: Definitely rap directly down from the anchors of the 5.7 to the top of the multi-pitch 5.11 route, will save you significant pains of trying to rap down the route itself. From there, a 60m rope will just barely hit the ground, so only two rap's will be necessary.

The 5.10a has an obvious crux on the slab face with some fairly significant exposure, but has quite a few options for passing through it, so don't hesitate to try a few different things while on lead.

There can be some road noise on t... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Amazonia : Q.D. Pie (5.10a)
By: gregman When: Jul 10, 2014

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Comments: If you show up and the 5.9 is occupied, resist the temptation to warm up on this climb. Unless you know the beta well, you'll get pumped trying to figure out how to traverse far right to follow the flake to the chains. There's so many other high quality routes here that this one just isn't worth the time unless there's absolutely nothing else open.

Climbers were struggling on this one all day while we were there, with many trying to take the 10c (left route after second bolt) and transfer over... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Amazonia : Radioactive Decay (5.10b)
By: gregman When: Jul 10, 2014

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Comments: Pretty challenging and sustained 10b climbing through the first 4 clips or so, but once you get to the actual jug hold (you'll know it when you grab it), it's smooth sailing to the top with plenty of rests. Another tricky start to get onto the face, but fortunately not as bad as "I remember drooling", which is a positive in my opinion :)


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Amazonia : I Remember Drooling (5.10b)
By: gregman When: Jul 10, 2014

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Comments: The bolt right above the first move makes it well protected, but silly nonetheless. Puts a bit of a damper on what would otherwise be a great climb.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Far Side : Motherland : Sheltered Upbringing (5.10b)
By: gregman When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: Due to the big block beneath the anchors, it's challenging to rappel and clean your draws in the same go. It's ideal to ensure your partner or someone else in your group can clean and rap down on this one, otherwise you're bound to be playing with some serious swings.

Otherwise, a totally fun and worth-your-time route...seems appropriate for the grade.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si : Blackstone : Stepping Stones (5.10c)
By: gregman When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Really fun route, but beware you absolutely must have a 60m rope and be sure someone on the ground tells you your rope is down, as it will still barely make it...my friend actually had to hop off the bottom of the rope after rap'ing down! just a foot or so though :)


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si : Blackstone : The Big Easy (5.10a)
By: gregman When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Lots of fun, great warm up route. As shown in the link above, this route is actually the *2nd* route from the left side now. The end is a bit tricky, but just go for it and you'll find the holds are quite sufficient :)


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si : Blackstone : Blackstone 2 (5.8)
By: gregman When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Definitely run out between the 3 middle bolts, can be intimidating for newer leaders. Feels a lot harder than a 5.8 when the rock is wet; this area spends a lot of time in the shade, so it doesn't dry up quickly.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si : AWOL : Kinder, Gentler, Carpet Bom... (5.9)
By: gregman When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Great fun, lots of ways to go play here. Be careful if it has rained recently this area does not get a lot of direct sunlight, so the deeper cracks will stay wet for a while, and you'll need to use the ledges (and a few jugs) on the arrete instead.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Far Side : Interstate Park : ... : Missing the Taco (5.10b)
By: gregman When: Sep 2, 2012

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Comments: Can be top roped from the 5.8 climb on the right side of eastern block, "Attack of the Butter knives". Some interesting moves at the beginning, but then merges with the 5.8 for a pretty easy, but still enjoyable finish.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Far Side : Interstate Park : ... : Ellie's Sweet Kiss (5.10a)
By: gregman When: Sep 2, 2012

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Comments: Fun longer climb! They may have added a bolt recently near the anchors, because there was definitely 7 bolts when I climbed it yesterday. I wouldn't exactly say there are no cruxes because there are some interesting moves when you are leading it, but it's certainly an easy top rope for any confident beginner.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Far Side : Interstate Park : ... : Kiss of the Crowbar (5.7)
By: gregman When: Sep 2, 2012

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Comments: Good first lead for confident climbers, and similarly a great TR for confident new climbers, but may be a bit too long for those who are less confident (we had a few newbies that had to turn back).


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Aborigine 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

WA : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall

Rainy Day Woman 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

WA : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall

Island Crack V2 5+

North America : Virgin Islands : ... : Spring Bay Boulder

Si, pero No 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

North America : Puerto Rico : ... : Pasillo

Big Bad Wolf 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

NV : Red Rock : ... : Riding Hood Wall

Me Cramer les Couilles 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

North America : Puerto Rico : ... : Ground Zero

Godzilla 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

WA : Index : ... : Main Wall, left side

Megatherion 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

WA : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall

Dreaming of a Life of Ease 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

WA : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall

Lay of the Land 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

WA : Exit 32 / Little Si : Midland

Vudu Guru 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

WA : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall

Hang It Out To Dry 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

WA : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall

Devils Bay Trail Traverse V1 5

North America : Virgin Islands : ... : Almost To Lithgow

UG Arete V1 5

North America : Virgin Islands : ... : UG Boulder

Black Widow 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

North America : Puerto Rico : Cerro Las Tetas (Cayey, Pue...

Trifulcadora 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

North America : Puerto Rico : ... : La Pared de las Nueve (El P...

Guavá Man 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

North America : Puerto Rico : ... : Pasillo

Neurosis 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

North America : Puerto Rico : ... : Pasillo

I'm Only Human 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

North America : Puerto Rico : ... : La Pared de las Nueve (El P...

Girls in the Gym 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

WA : Exit 32 / Little Si : World Wall

Princely Ambitions 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

WA : Index : ... : Main Wall, left side

Ellie's Sweet Kiss 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : ... : Eastern Block

Kinder, Gentler, Carpet Bombing 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

WA : Exit 32 / Little Si : AWOL

Stepping Stones 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

WA : Exit 32 / Little Si : Blackstone

Sheltered Upbringing 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : ... : Motherland

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