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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Cardinal Pinnacle : West Face (5.10a)
By: grega When: Apr 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Umm yeah. Looks to be a cool route. In fact today (4/19/13) it was way too cool. Kicked, slipped, groveled, and belly flopped myself up the first (or mostly) pitch. No it's not really that hard of a climb. When your wife talks you into climbing this route (in April) keep in mind it'll be quite the Alpine experience. The routes stays in the shade until at LEAST 3pm and the first pitch could be full of snow and ice thus boots and crampons may have had better traction than wet/icy 5.10 rubber... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Log-Jammin' (WI3-4 M4-5 R)
By: grega When: Feb 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun climb while near the Spiral Staircase. The ice was more prevalent than shown in the above picture, for an ascent up the right side. To lead, it takes only stubbies and maybe a cam or two (read:"low angle" thin ice). As for the left side, it's a great flaring crack with perfect tool placements. Anyone know what the pure left route would be rated, M6-? Seemed pumpy but very secure.
As stated above, be aware of the anchor tree. Looks quite precarious.
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Location: CO : Volunteers Continue Search ...
By: grega When: Sep 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Exactly Dave.. at 5am with head trauma.. Who knows where you'd go. Typical adult male's will generally go up hill when lost and children go down. I've been in Eldo and at Walker several times. It's easy for me to speculate that perhaps he went toward Walker on an easy trail and kept traveling the trails at Walker (left or right).. then getting further from "civilization" headed up hill above Boulder.. then... My point is he could have traveled a VERY long way, quickly. Remember the lost boy... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Hen and Chickens : Hagakure (5.12a)
By: grega When: Jul 31, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is fine to TR (with no swing into CC). Just clip both pins for directionals. Clip the lower pin with a long runner.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Hen and Chickens : Cackle Crack (5.8)
By: grega When: Jul 31, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route.. We also TR'd Hagakure from this route. IMO, it was not sketchy to stem over to the bolts. Just a stretch.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Hen and Chickens : Rooster Tail (5.9)
By: grega When: Jul 31, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this route yesterday, and it was very fun. Crack seemed to get bigger as you went (scrapes all over my left leg says so). Why does the "proper route" go left? Seems much more fluid to keep following the natural arching feature to the right (so I did). Fun and challenging finish (for me). Interesting feet, too. You'll want to stay in the crack, but really can't, because it starts to arch too much. Don't worry as there are lots of feet on the face at this point. I recommend NOT leav... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Green Spur (5.9)
By: grega When: Jul 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Reiterating what Ron stated (kind of).. After getting to Red Ledge just do Rewritten, you'll be much happier. The remaining "Green Spur" pitch(es) aren't really that fun anyway and lots of potential to knock rocks off. If Rewritten is full, there are many other opportunities, too.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: grega When: Apr 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: How's this route for the second? Namely coming off the summit back to the belay.. Isn't there the opportunity for a huge swing? :-)
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Silver Glide (5.11)
By: grega When: Mar 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. 11a, maybe 11b tops and somewhat bouldery crux.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor
By: grega When: Mar 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed around here for the first time last week. Good fun. A few bolted routes (not in guide) around the 3-crack area. They appeared to be around 5.8/5.9's and a 5.10 far right. We climbed a crack just right of Knee Grinder (I think). The route went: up an "easy" water groove, through a dirty BD#4 bulge, thin fingers corner (i.e. hard to protect), right around a roof, up to some anchor/slings. The Bjornstad guide misrepresents this line (i.e. lists it twice differently). Anyone kno... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Tenmile Canyon aka Officer'... : The Shroud (WI3-4)
By: grega When: Feb 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Leo, I think you made my point more so than I did. I was trying to point out all the evidence of avalanche below the climb. Bits of trees and broken branches strewn about. The fact that the approach was 6" hard slab over 36" of sugar snow. If anyone has the accident details Leo ref's, please post.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Tenmile Canyon aka Officer'... : The Shroud (WI3-4)
By: grega When: Feb 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed 2/26. Super fat conditions and not another person around 10-mile (is this common, never been before). Right now this area has everything from WI3 to short-n-steep 4+ (R->L). "Everything" is leadable, possibly with all 22cm screws. On the approach, watch the 6" wind slab on 3ft of sugar covered with tree bits (I'm still tired). Guess, I just gave out a secret!!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverplume & vicinity
By: grega When: Feb 12, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: We blew the alpine start and got hammered in I-70 traffic on our way to hit some Summit county ice (Sat 2/11/06). So we pulled off I-70 and decided to hit Silverplume (never been there before). The ice looked easy and thick, and so was the crowd (thick not easy).. We counted 16 others!!!
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