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Location: CO
By: Greg Sievers When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 9th Annual Lumpy Trails Day at Lumpy Ridge,
Rocky Mountain National Park, Estes Park, Colorado.
The Front Range Section of the American Alpine Club will be hosting a trail improvement day at Lumpy Ridge in Estes Park, Colorado. This project is in conjunction with the Access Fund ‘Adopt-A-Crag’ program. A full day is scheduled on Sunday, October 18th. Interested persons should register early by emailing event organizer Greg Sievers at g_sievers57@q.com, or calling 970-586-4075. Only ... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock
By: Greg Sievers When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 9th Annual Lumpy Trails Day at Lumpy Ridge,
Rocky Mountain National Park, Estes Park, Colorado.
The Front Range Section of the American Alpine Club will be hosting a trail improvement day at Lumpy Ridge in Estes Park, Colorado. This project is in conjunction with the Access Fund ‘Adopt-A-Crag’ program. A full day is scheduled on Sunday, October 18th. Interested persons should register early by emailing event organizer Greg Sievers at g_sievers57@q.com, or calling 970-586-4075. Only ... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Laid Back (a.k.a. NE Ridge) (5.8)
By: Greg Sievers When: Aug 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi Larry - yup another great adventure.
So imagine my trepidation last weekend when Scott Kimball and I did Dogstar? I was thinking "oh no, another LH/DG badass 5.8", but it came to pass delightfully. In fact, we did a couple variation pitches to it, too.
Thanks for adding to my tick list. After 22 years of living and climbing in EP/RMNP, it's still great fun to get off the beaten trail.
Cheers.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : McHenry's Peak : Dog Star (5.8)
By: Greg Sievers When: Aug 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Scott Kimball (his highness) and I had a bit better luck than JD. Aug 2-09) the second dihedral right made a fitting 5.8 start. up and right was the general trend of the day. I skipped the "roof capped corner" mentioned in the description and jumped on a killer 5.9 LFD just left of it. Yes, seven long and very enjoyable pitches.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Taylor Peak
By: Greg Sievers When: Aug 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Take a look at our new Andrews Tower route under the Alpine Ice section. (2009)
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : McGregor Slab
By: Greg Sievers When: Jun 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: REPEAT NOTE: The Owner have requested that I post this again: PLEASE only hike up the EAST RAVINE. please share the word with your friends.
and ONLY park on the Highway 34 (roadside) dirt lot, or Fall River Visitors Center NPS parking lot.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Laid Back (a.k.a. NE Ridge) (5.8)
By: Greg Sievers When: Jun 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, this could become a classic albeit still quite loose. It seems like this route hasn't seen traffic since the FA? We'd love to know anyone else who's made the voyage.
Brian Verhulst & I climbed it Saturday, June 25, 2009 and got a real eye opener for 5.8. After it was over, we agreed that there wasn't any one move that was harder than 5.8, but the intensity, position, and loose rock, fear-factor made us climb with 5.10 attitute and focus.
We were unable to push the 3rd class start (4th r... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq...
By: Greg Sievers When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: news flash: 1st the good news: Marths'a gulley & Dreamweaver are full of snow. now the bad news: its 18" deep of new pellet/grapple snow, which is unconsolidated. without some strong freezes, and an Oh-dark-thirty start the slush layer is pretty avi prone.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area : Cave Route (5.10a)
By: Greg Sievers When: May 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good quality route, in a really unique setting, with much of the climbing being in the 5.9+ range. In other words: not nearly as difficult as the Key Hole route.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area
By: Greg Sievers When: May 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Slim, thanks for the input. The (new) anchor out there, now makes more sense. While tiny tight fingers is a super tuff size for big guys, we certainly concede to small fingers, and/or better skills. Kudos on ya, but for sausage fingers I'm sticking with solid 5.11 for the first 15-20', and whining about it, too. LOL. We did see the fallen tower and read about it, but didn't make the connection with that anchor. Thanks again. Belay off.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : McGregor Slab
By: Greg Sievers When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Update 4-09
1. campground is now defunct.
2. new Della-Terra lodge owners are very cool about climber access.
3. do not park on the Della-Terra paved areas.
4. Parking available in NPS lot on south side of highway
5. parking also available in Hwy roadside dirt lot.
6. hike up ravine to east side of Della-Terra lodge.
7. all climbers that choose to top-out, I would recommend descending to the west. Some guidebooks say east; but you'll hate that choice.
8. restrooms & water (and snacks)... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : McGregor Slab : Camel Toe (5.9+)
By: Greg Sievers When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The old campground is now defunct (April 2009) and a lodge and cabins well underway to opening. The new owners are very cool about climber access. Please be polite & considerate. There is roadside parking on US Hwy 34 as seen in the photo. The approach is best made in the ravine to the east of the site. (see pic).
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area
By: Greg Sievers When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: WARNING: the route labeled as NEW does NOT have anchors as shown!!
The route will likely rank in the .11+ range and is 120' to the red webbing on the upper left shoulder as seen in this image. The start is sustained #0, 1, & 2 C3s, then widens. The middle is wonderful 5.10 hands, then widens again to #4-5 Camalots. The ending is an X-rated traverse left about 12' with much loose rock.
To add insult the the ending - the bonehead that installed the new red webbing had threaded it as ... more >>
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area : Interiors (5.9-)
By: Greg Sievers When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well poot, Jared. The webbing on the new anchors is now covered with bird shit. A proactive person may wish to change the acid soaked webbing with chains at some point.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area : Flake Route (5.9+)
By: Greg Sievers When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I started on the right side of this flake to avoid the wide section, then crossed to the left at mid height. Still about the same rating. Very enjoyable climbing.
The stack of loose blocks on the top will rattle, and rattle you. They may not last many more years, and I would not suggest ever putting a cam behind them.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area : Unknown II (5.10)
By: Greg Sievers When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you take the start of route #1 only to the first anchors it likely a 5.9 and quite pleasant. 2 each x 3, 4, 4.5, 1 x 5 cam at least.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area : Key Hole (5.10-)
By: Greg Sievers When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Caution heroes
Anyone looking at this route should also know its mostly all #0.75 & #1 Camalots. Now, if that's .10a for your hands = enjoy youself, but keep in mind that I thought Super Crack was 5.8 which for some may be OW and LB.
As Ive always said: "desert cracks make you critically aware of your anatomical shortcoming and prowess".
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Lake City : Gunnison River Valley
By: Greg Sievers When: Feb 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nope. Not Classic Cruise. CC is across Lake San Cristobal. I checked with Jack Roberts to help clear that up. We did that also. There were no signs of slings, anchors or any other descent options on this route (however, the 1998 JR Guide book does have several discrepancies, on both Classic Cruise and other routes that are posted as being located off Hwy 149) so if you're positive, please tell us more details.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Lake City : Lake City Ice Park
By: Greg Sievers When: Feb 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We were quite pleased. A very nice alterative to Ouray.
We didn't find any info on these BUT - they have installed about 7, 24" galvanized steel posts along the top of the cliff for rappel points. A real help.
To reach these posts, it is definitely more than a half rope (even a 70meter) - so you'll need double ropes or just walk down, it only takes about 5 mintues.
DO BEWARE, and careful to not step on the poly water pipes!!
They run the water at night, and turn it off about 8-9am.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Lake City : Gunnison River Valley
By: Greg Sievers When: Feb 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We're seeking information on this route. As with most crag-sized ice, it's probably been climbed before. However, we did not find any sign of rap slings, and it would be pretty difficult to get off this cliff any other way.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale Gorge : Crystal Meth (WI4-5)
By: Greg Sievers When: Feb 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just stumbled on this string.
When we climbed all these lines in 1987, I only heard one name for any of them - Mixed Feelings. All the rest were just mini ice routes as far as I ever knew. I spoz we did refer to the 'steep column', the 'leaning tree' (it was a new deadfall in those days), and 'the mixed thing in the middle'. LOL
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Wham Couloir (M4 Easy Snow)
By: Greg Sievers When: Feb 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Like Maxwell Smart would say: "missed by that much", as I had seen this last year and hoped to snag it. Good job guys, looks like quite an enjoyable cruise.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Patent Pending (5.8+)
By: Greg Sievers When: Sep 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: the OW pitch has many outside features to work with. do let it scare you off. 2 or 3 #4s will do the trick on the big end of your rack. it takes a comfortable heel-toe and there are many interior edges. the top of P2 has new bolts.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Tulgey Wood (5.10a)
By: Greg Sievers When: Sep 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: a comment & few tricks that may help some taller, and big handed folks.
1. the thin seam crux of P1, is dicey for sausage fingered people. but it took C3 x #00.
2. P2 can be made easier by stemming to the left wall. Im 6', and it maxed by span, but helped tremendously.
3. P3 is the enduro pitch. it is not OW. no place for arm bars, or heel-toe here. but it is a fist crack (horizontal fist). thick tape, or hand-jammies will help alot. camming the foot, an occasional knee, and lemaz will hel... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Apache Peak : The Queen (5.0)
By: Greg Sievers When: Sep 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: 8-31-08: these were wonderful features to scramble and climb. Brian Verhulst made a new route (variation) by climbing a 5.10 finger/hand crack on the far right side of the Queen.
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