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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Old Baldy/ Mount Baldy : Irie Heights Boulder : Flesh Wound (V7-8)
By: Greg Parker When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Blake cleaned and worked out this problem. He showed it to me and I managed the FA. He did it immediately after me.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Old Baldy/ Mount Baldy : Hueco Wall
By: Greg Parker When: Aug 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Gary. Sorry, I missed your questions. I don't know if there is a problem on the arete. I've never done it. If it looks climbable, chances are it's been done :) As for the problem to the right, I can't remember the name, but I think it was around V2 or 3. Does that sound right? It has some angular semi-sharp holds, right? Sorry, I'm not much help.
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Location: SD : Photo
By: Greg Parker When: May 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ha! That's funny.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Old Baldy/ Mount Baldy : The Calm Boulder : Jumper (V4)
By: Greg Parker When: May 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Blake had two variations over there. One started right below the sloper you can see to my left in the photo. I can't remember the starting holds exactly, but they were not very good. From there you slap up to the sloping rail and mantel straight up. This was called "The Offering" and is V6.
He also did one a little further left, starting with your left hand on the very obvious, big left hand sidepull rail and your right hand on the sloper at the lip. I can't remember the name of this one, but i... more >>
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Mohican : Indian Wars Wall : Ricochet (5.12c)
By: Greg Parker When: Apr 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pete actually found a bullet stuck in the rock while equipping the route.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Old Baldy/ Mount Baldy : Photo
By: Greg Parker When: Feb 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's Seul Avec Dieu. Nice pic.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Old Baldy/ Mount Baldy : Photo
By: Greg Parker When: Mar 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Josh and Christian. This is a problem I did called Hidden Agenda, V4ish. It's located on the backside, down the hill to the left of Isosceles Lookalike (AKA right-handed isosceles). If you just follow the band of boulders to the left about 50 yards, you should find it. This is actually the first problem I did back there.
Nice pics, Christian!
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Location: SD
By: Greg Parker When: Mar 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hello all. I have a bunch of old climbing footage from the Canyon and Baldy that I've been converting to digital. I thought I would throw some of the more interesting stuff onto YouTube. The digital conversion kind of sucks, but I figured there might be a few of you out there that would be psyched to see it. So far, I only have a couple of vids up; one of me on Gale Force (13a) and one of Jeremiah on F5 (12d/13a) at the Thunderhead. I'll continue to post more videos as I get the time. ... more >>
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Old Baldy/ Mount Baldy : Brilliant Boulder : Brilliant (V8-9)
By: Greg Parker When: Feb 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Josh. I did manage the FA of this problem. I'm glad you like it as much as I do. I guess I called it Brilliant for a reason....
I did this problem for the first time on one of my solo adventures out to Baldy. Like you said, the top is easy, but it was a more than a little scary topping out for the first time with no spotters!
After the ascent, I sat on the rock in front of Brilliant and ate some tuna on crackers, and I swear I heard growling coming from the cave underneath this problem. I qu... more >>
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Mohican : The Gully Of Biblical Propo... : Master Blaster (5.12d)
By: Greg Parker When: Jan 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe Lee added a 2 bolt (?) extension to this and now it's solid 12d. Great route.
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Location: SD : Rock Maze : Carrier Boulder : Unknown V5 (V5)
By: Greg Parker When: Nov 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I racked my brain trying to remember the name of this problem after I saw your post... no luck. I thought "Thelonious" was on the front side of that boulder, but I could be wrong. For some reason, none of the names at the Maze seemed to stick with me. It's not very characteristic of me, I know. I agree with Dan, it's probably V3ish. Hard first move though.
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Sunshine : AMC Wall : Gremlin (5.11c)
By: Greg Parker When: Oct 31, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ha. I'm glad that you realized your error. Hopefully, you have learned a lesson from all of this.
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Sunshine : AMC Wall : Gremlin (5.11c)
By: Greg Parker When: Oct 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: 11c, 11c, 11c. There's nothing "b" about it.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Old Baldy/ Mount Baldy : Seul Avec Dieux Boulder : The Prow (V10)
By: Greg Parker When: Oct 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Christian. Yours is the 2nd comment I've heard about the top crimp breaking off. The first comment was a couple of years ago. I could be wrong, but I bet the original hold is still there (as it was after the 1st comment). The crimp that I used looked like a broken edge. You can see a scar where rock has broken off and the edge is bumpy and not very good to say the least.
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Location: SD : Breezy Point Boulders : Rerighting the gospel (V0-)
By: Greg Parker When: Oct 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Blake. I just watched the FA video. Nice job. You make it look easier than it is, I'm sure. I'd be psyched to try it this Christmas break. I'm trying to get back into shape (I've been saying that for a while now). This time I mean it! Are you going to be around over Christmas? If so, we should definitely hook up.
Should the name of this problem actually be spelled Rewriting the Gospel?
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Location: SD : Breezy Point Boulders : Rerighting the gospel (V0-)
By: Greg Parker When: Oct 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It seemed at least V1+ to me. Just kidding. I looked at this thing on my quick tour of Breezy Point last year. I did not try it, but I felt the holds and they are pathetic. Nice job, Blake. You've got a heavyweight contender.
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon
By: Greg Parker When: Sep 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Somebody post something new. I'm bored. Any more cool pics Christian? Any new double-digit sends Dreher? Any new best-5.12-in-the-world Cronin? Come on, entertain me.
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Blue Sky : Pheromone Wall : The Sting (5.13c)
By: Greg Parker When: Aug 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Josh. Unfortunately, I don't think I'll be coming back to town this season. I wish I was there right now, but I need to actually try to finish grad school...
Grabbing the undercling wasn't too bad, but getting stood up was the hard part for me. Once I was all the way stood up and had the undercling locked at my waist, I could just deadpoint to the edge. Maybe it's a difference in height. But, I remember just struggling getting fully stood up.
Keep me updated if you get on it. I love hearin... more >>
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Thunderhead : The Tempest (5.12c/d) : Photo
By: Greg Parker When: Aug 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice pics, Christian. I love seeing new photos of the canyon. It makes me sad and happy at the same time...
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Mohican : The Gully Of Biblical Propo... : Devils advocate (5.12a)
By: Greg Parker When: Aug 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was pleasantly surprised by this route. The climbing is quite fun and I don't think it's too bad going to the 3rd. I avoided it for a long time, but I don't think it deserves it's scary reputation. You definitely don't want to fall clipping the 3rd, but that's true for a lot of routes.
Pete got the FA.
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Blue Sky : Lord Of The Flies Wall : All Strung Out on Crack (5.8)
By: Greg Parker When: Jun 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think Nate named it that.
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : The Wall Of Oz : Photo
By: Greg Parker When: Apr 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The two routes on the left/middle of the wall (the 12a and 13a) probably could be extended. From what I remember, the rock quality deteriorates the higher up you get and the pitches have very obvious stopping points as they now stand, so we didn't push them up any further. But, it might warrant another look. The 12c and 12d on the right side end at the top of a small slab/scoop and couldn't really be extended any further.
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : Wrinked Rock : Lizzy Beams Desire (5.14)
By: Greg Parker When: Mar 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I actually removed my earlier comment, because after re-reading it, I felt like it came across as an attack on Cameron. I didn't want that. Cameron, you are young and really psyched on climbing. I can respect and identify with that. To want to get on every line that inspires you is understandable. Unfortunately, climbing just doesn't work that way. I'm very inspired by Sharma's Realization (15a), but that does not mean I'm going to recruit a belayer to hold my rope while I flail all over it.
Try... more >>
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : Wrinked Rock : Lizzy Beams Desire (5.14)
By: Greg Parker When: Mar 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Are you implying that you redpointed this route?
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Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block
By: Greg Parker When: Mar 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pop You Up is 12b, by my account and many others. It is not 12+ nor any harder. What other 12's are you comparing it to? Are they 12a??
Atomic Slap has not been redpointed, and it is hard. Todd Skinner and Paul Piana could not do it. Dave Asscherick and I tried it one day and couldn't do the crux. I would say that it is at least 13d. Great looking line though.
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