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Location: AZ : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : The Hotline (aka Hiccup Del... (5.10)
By: Greg Opland When: Nov 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No worries Bill, just tossing out another handle I heard for it. From a long-time local Phx climber as I recall.
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Location: AZ : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : The Hotline (aka Hiccup Del... (5.10)
By: Greg Opland When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No idea about the FA, but an easy one to come up with if you got the skills to climb all the parts and pieces.
Seems like a long time back, I also heard it referred to as "The Grand Slam", but maybe I dreamt it.
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Location: AZ : Granite Mountain : Right Section : The Easy Chair (5.9-)
By: Greg Opland When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did it not once, but twice in October. It was sooo good. First time I'd done it in ten years.
At one time, I would have called it 10a, but I've decided GM 5.9 is accurate. Pro is actually pretty good on the entire route, just might put the leader in a position of either getting gear or making it through the crux "easy chair" section.
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Location: AZ : Superstition Mountains : Crying Dinosaur : Regular Route (5.5)
By: Greg Opland When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A little lean on detail, ain't it?
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Location: AZ : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : Hassayampa (5.8)
By: Greg Opland When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd only done the route once before ('98), but repeated it for fun this past weekend.
Male 5'10", 210 lbs, 46" chest.
Executed a beautiful left arm over my head chicken wing while right hand palming the foot ledge for a less-than-attractive sideways thrutch lead past the roof. It was a bit wider near the bottom. My partner claimed you could hand traverse the foot ledge, but I doubt that as the rock on that face sorta sucks coming out of the corner below that foot ledge. Nice route, though.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Coffeepot Rock Area : Summit Block Rock : Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride (5.9)
By: Greg Opland When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was just there 10/11 or so... not a bee in sight and I was looking.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Marg's Draw Area : Grand Orcaface Tower : Maid in the Shade (5.8+ C1-2 R) : Photo
By: Greg Opland When: Nov 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sounds like Teaser combined with Screaming Basenji might be a good moderate day.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : The Mace : Photo
By: Greg Opland When: Nov 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like pitch three.
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Location: AZ : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : The Classic (5.7)
By: Greg Opland When: Nov 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The actual third pitch of The Classic route takes a crack line that diagonals across the Flying Buttress to it's far side (away from the main face). You can veer sort of left and go up the last part of Karl's Korner and then continue straight into the HEE (what it sounds like you did). See picture...
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Location: AZ : Homestead : Finland and Tufa City
By: Greg Opland When: Oct 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I fixed you up in the description section Luke.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : The Mace : Original Route (5.9+) : Photo
By: Greg Opland When: Oct 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like the 4th pitch.
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Location: AZ : Superstition Mountains : Weavers Needle : El Grungo (5.9 PG13) : Photo
By: Greg Opland When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You're going to ask that of a guy who spends most of his time climbing shattered temples in the Canyon?
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Location: AZ : McDowell Mountains : Gardeners Wall : Photo
By: Greg Opland When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's WAY too much of a hump to climb up there now that they put the trailhead in west Fountain Hills.
p.s. That's a great shot Manny!
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Location: AZ : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : Witblitz (5.10- R)
By: Greg Opland When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You forgot to mention the classic two-handed mantle-pullup onto the bear grass pile that completely blocks the top of the crux pitch. Awesome!
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Matterhorn Boulder : Big Bad Wolf (V9)
By: Greg Opland When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Numbers aside, trying to equate B1+ to V5/6 shows a fair level of ignorance of the B scale as it was used back in the day, IMHO. Luke pretty much nailed it above.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Real Hidden Valley Boulderi... : Real Hidden Valley Circuit : ... : Photo
By: Greg Opland When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice bouldering shoes!
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Location: AZ : Chiricahua National Monumen... : Photo
By: Greg Opland When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Unfortunately, climbing not allowed.
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Location: AZ : Chiricahua National Monumen... : Photo
By: Greg Opland When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We saw it first!!!
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Location: AZ : Pinnacle Peak : Y-Crack Boulder : Y Crack (5.9)
By: Greg Opland When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've done it a few times and never had anything all that big. I'd think a couple of #5's would work fine. You can bump the bottom one up and then leave it, then work on the upper one. As I recall, it gets a little smaller as you go, so better have the #4, #3.5 and #3 ready too. Then some other assorted stuff for the part above the ledge.
Might be time for another lap on that thing. Been a while.
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Location: AZ : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : Cinnamon Girl (5.10 R)
By: Greg Opland When: Sep 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Might want to get in touch with Prescott locals Bill Cramer or Bob Jensen about the bolt replacement. We were all tossing around the idea of getting them swapped out this season.
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Location: AZ : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : Cinnamon Girl (5.10 R)
By: Greg Opland When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was exercising my understatement.
I really liked the 5.7 third pitch of Kingpin too. Long and fun.
And I thought that green corner finish is pretty cool too, and Granite Mountain 5.8 as well.
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Location: AZ : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : Cinnamon Girl (5.10 R)
By: Greg Opland When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: According to topos by Waugh, Black and Cramer, the pitch (second or third, depending on how you do it) that heads off from the same belay as the second of Kingpin, traverses across right and up to the nice jamming flake/crack (same as the one you climb if you traverse left out from Coatimundi), then traverse back left (bolt) to the belay as for the third pitch of Kinpin. Pro for that crack is #1 - #3 Camalot size and plentiful.
FWIW (and you may already have done it), that fourth pi... more >>
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Location: AZ : Granite Mountain : Right Section : Falling Ross (5.10) : Photo
By: Greg Opland When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just remember loving the jams and being sort of surprised they were as good as I was getting considering I'd heard it was a little tight. Full disclosure: I was following the pitch and that's the only time I've done it. Need to get on it again and see if it's gotten harder (or I've gotten softer).
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Location: AZ : Granite Mountain : Right Section : Falling Ross (5.10) : Photo
By: Greg Opland When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've heard this thing can feel pretty greasy on a warm day and Paul says "thin hands" above, but I did it on a cool day, have fat hands and thought it was friggin' fantastic. Althought I thought the first pitch was fairly sandbagged (at 9+ or whatever), I wouldn't say this pitch (at 5.10) is not reasonable for the grade. Completely my opinion.
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Location: AZ : Pinnacle Peak : Pinnacle Peak : Hades (5.10-)
By: Greg Opland When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Still... the fact that there are occasional tiny features to help out with on the right side face, makes it sorta kinda doable if you're not Jaybro.
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