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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Fat Tuesday (5.10+)
By: Greg Hand When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Bob D, Greg Hand, Dan Brockway.
Done on Marti Gras 2009.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park
By: Greg Hand When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is not a tyrolean.
Probably more just something to clip into or as a handhold during higher water wading.
At the current water level, it has no purpose.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Bailey's Overhang (5.8)
By: Greg Hand When: Aug 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The cable/rap anchor has been removed. Use the Fixe anchors.
If you want to do a 2nd pitch, see Beetle Bailey.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Bailey's Overhang (5.8)
By: Greg Hand When: Aug 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: My eyes nearly popped out of my head when I saw the cable/rap anchor. I placed 2 Fixe ring anchors in a better location. I was not able to disassemble the cable as one of the nuts was stuck. I will remove it later this week.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower
By: Greg Hand When: Jul 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is nothing wrong with the Fixe anchor system that was installed.
You can see the specs at http://www.fixeusa.com/traditional_anchors.htm .
The single ring that bothers most people is rated at 50kn=12,500lbs.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mine Hole Crag : Couch Potato (5.10-)
By: Greg Hand When: May 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tony,
Should only be 4 bolts. I thought about a separate anchor from Sofa Kingdom, but have not done so.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Retirement Rock
By: Greg Hand When: Sep 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not sure of the speed limit sign, but you should cross at the far west (up river) end of the parking lot. There used to be a cairn on a big rock on the other side. Then head up a short steep hill, and then angle up stream. The trail grows in and I may need to get there and clip the growth back.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Tese (5.10)
By: Greg Hand When: Aug 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ken, thanks for the reminder. I meant to make that note when we put in Scarecrow, we removed the intermediate anchor. I will change my comment above.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mine Hole Crag : What's Mine Is Yours (5.9)
By: Greg Hand When: Jul 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jason,
This is on the formation right of where Firing Squad is.
When you are climbing your route The Hot Donut, it is the formation behind you. The rock is not the best. You might want to keep Tony off of it. :)
I was looking for more moderates in the Sofa Kingdom area because it is shady on these hot days.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Garden Party Wall : The Illusionist (5.12-)
By: Greg Hand When: Jul 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent climbing. For what it's worth, even I was able to TR this route without falling. That may have been an illusion. Then, later in the day, I shot 1 under par at West Woods golf course from the tips. Anybody for golf?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Free Willie (5.11a)
By: Greg Hand When: Jul 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kevin,
When I first TRed the line before placing the bolts, I did the "beached whale" move when the feet cut loose on the traverse. Hence the name.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : ... : Photo
By: Greg Hand When: Jul 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually, I wasn't big then and much younger, but still not much hair.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bom... (5.12-)
By: Greg Hand When: Jul 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I trundled the biggest flake I have ever cleaned off a route between the last two bolts. It is not difficult there and originally we stood on the block. But last week I noticed it moved. You can see it laying down by a tree. It is almost 4 feet long. Hence the "Bombs" reference.
Give a good spot to clip the first bolt.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Tuesday Afternoon (5.11) : Photo
By: Greg Hand When: Jun 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe this is Melancholy Man. Tuesday Afternoon is a 2-bolt variation just left of this.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Summersville Lake : Pirates' Cove : Photo
By: Greg Hand When: Jun 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: What kind of harness is this?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Tese (5.10)
By: Greg Hand When: Jun 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tese has been extended to 100 feet.
Now you need 11 draws to a 2-bolt anchor.
A 60 meter rope gets you down. Tie a knot to be sure.
The second half is easier than the first and has fun climbing on the arete. There is no longer an anchor at the half way point. If you have a 50 meter rope, you may need to go to the anchor on No Direction Home or Scarecrow to the right.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Overlook : Golden Child (5.11)
By: Greg Hand When: May 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This has one of the better backstep-dropknee moves in the canyon.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : ... : Photo
By: Greg Hand When: May 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mic likes to wear short shorts.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Where's Ray? (5.8)
By: Greg Hand When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: JellieBean (did you change your name?), Where's Ray ends at the same first anchor as Flags of Our Fathers. Then, Flags.. goes up 2 more pitches to a new anchor which is also for the Bihedral Arete. These routes were done Fall 2006. Above that anchor is the short and difficult Sands of Iwo Jima.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Tuesday Afternoon (5.11)
By: Greg Hand When: May 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We cleaned up the mess left on the ground and built a nice little bench out of it.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott ... (5.9)
By: Greg Hand When: Apr 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fifth bolt was added to eliminate the runout to the anchors. It was certainly out of character with the climbing.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Days of Future Passed aka O... (5.12a)
By: Greg Hand When: Apr 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We placed a bolt where the fixed nut had historically been.
Also replaced the bolt below this one as it was a spinner that could not be tightened.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Free Willie (5.11a)
By: Greg Hand When: Apr 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We replaced the crux (last) bolt today.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Days of Future Passed aka O... (5.12a)
By: Greg Hand When: Apr 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had noticed the nut was missing yesterday. I just replaced it with a new one about 2 months ago because the one that had been there since we put the route in looked real bad. I guess I did not smash it in hard enough. Too bad people have to steal things. Maybe we will put another bolt in there.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Lovely to See You (5.12c)
By: Greg Hand When: Apr 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route (as originally done) follows the wide crack straight up.
The bolts left are Nice To Be Here (done as an easier start) which joins Lovely To See You higher up. But it may make more sense (less gear/harder climbing) to move left and follow the bolts. If you can climb 5.12c, you probably don't need the purple Camalot at the top before the anchors.
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