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Location: CO : Rope Access Course - Denver...
By: Greg D When: Nov 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A bit misleading title. More like "Pay for training. Then, maybe get a job."
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Class Act (5.11b R)
By: Greg D When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route. Thanks guys. We happened on this route by chance after climbing Center Route. It looked so good we had to try it. We had no problem placing gear to back up the two remaining pins, then onto the newer bolts. Mostly well protected with slight runout higher up on new bolts. Fantastic climbing.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Crack 3 (5.8)
By: Greg D When: Oct 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cracks 1, 2 and 3 are not even close to vertical.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Freezer Burn (5.10)
By: Greg D When: Oct 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Umm, last I checked, 9+ is harder than 9. So, to answer your question, yes, knot not harder than 9. Of course a subtle difference between 9+ and 10a. Perhaps I had a good breakfast that day.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : The Good, The Bad, and the ... (5.11b/c)
By: Greg D When: Oct 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun movement on good rock. Just wish it were a bit longer.
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Location: CO : Media Release - WildyX In D...
By: Greg D When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome, Don. Keep up the good work. Your shop is the best.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Chiefshead Northwest Face : Birds of Fire (5.11a R)
By: Greg D When: Aug 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great and very exciting route. Don't want to sound inappreciative cause I like creme brulee and after dinner ports, but the route description here is more of a commentary than a route description. I'm not as adventurous as some. So, when I look up into a sea of granite with no crack, corner or other feature to follow, knowing I'm going to be runout, I like to have an idea of where I'm heading. At the start of some pitches, locating the first bolt took some effort. Locating the second bolt ... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Freezer Burn (5.10) : Photo
By: Greg D When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: L is not RP City. RP city has the same start as Vanilla Cream (J) but continues up and left to a thin (RP) seem. L in this photo is a good route. 10a and doesn't require any rp's. Many people make this mistake as RP City is incorrectly described in Rock Climbing Utah.
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Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Crag
By: Greg D When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you need a sledge, maybe it is not ready to come off. Be careful, wear a helmut and never hang out below other climbers.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Where Eagles Dare (5.10b)
By: Greg D When: Jun 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finally I can say I climbed a really good trad line in BC. Found it a bit harder than expected. Not sure if my 5 day fast and losing 13lbs had anything to do with it. But, the first pitch crux felt quite stiff, well protected though. The second pitch is the mental crux, thin slabby climbing with intermittent "ok" gear.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Heavy Weather (5.9)
By: Greg D When: Jun 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A decent climb. I was a bit disappointed. I guess I had big expectations based on above comments and a friend that said it was one of his favorites. Very short section of quality and business. The rest of the climbing was ok.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : The Naked Hedge (5.10)
By: Greg D When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interesting how the route submitter noticed the pin, yet claims a first ascent. Pin must have grown there as a result of a seed blown in from another route I guess.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Vanilla Cream (5.10+)
By: Greg D When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Eric, I believe you are listing RP City incorrectly. If you are getting this from Rock Climbing Utah they have shown it incorrectly but describe it correctly needing "loads of rp's" The route you describe doesn't take any rp's. If you climb the route you mention above and RP City described on this site you will agree.
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Location: Greg D : photos : Photo
By: Greg D When: Apr 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Unkown belayer we handed over a toprope too.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Shadowfax (5.11a R)
By: Greg D When: Apr 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: According to these guys http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/potash_road/>>>>>
it is called Potstash not Little Thailand.
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Location: Chase Gee : Bone-A-Fyed Tree Hugging Ro... : Photo
By: Greg D When: Apr 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lacto Mangulation!
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Location: Whiskeybullets : Cams for Sale! : Photo
By: Greg D When: Apr 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: .4
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Bastardized old route (5.9-)
By: Greg D When: Mar 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this one on Fri. This is one of the only routes that I would not do a second time... for several reason. Very poor rock (which doesn't bother me that much) and a poorly placed first bolt, and a poor anchor at the top. Not a new route to boot.
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Location: Greg D : Tornado : Photo
By: Greg D When: Feb 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing looked like a monster. Compare it to the sizes of the houses below. Surprisingly, minimal damage was done.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : High Desert Drifter (5.8)
By: Greg D When: Feb 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If this route is on the left side of a gully with Bolts to Bumpy Land on the right side of same gully, then this is in Bjornstad's Desert Rock as Ring Pin Boulder.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Turkey Foot Crack (5.9)
By: Greg D When: Feb 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sling anchor atop pitch 2 was pretty solid and in good shape as of Feb 09. It is up and right after the hand crack ends.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Knapping With The Alien (5.12-)
By: Greg D When: Jan 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: All bolts were in fine condition as of fall 08.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Frogs of a Feather (5.10c)
By: Greg D When: Jan 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route. Strenuos right of the deck. You can protect this section but it will be even more strenuous as you would be placing from an awkward sort of lieback.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Potash Bong Hit (5.9)
By: Greg D When: Jan 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have noticed three people have suggested this route is harder than 9. I think this route may be a bit harder for small hands or people with little jamming experience. But all in all I think this route is no harder than Flakes of Wrath, Bad Moki Roof or Eyes of Falina, all 9's. So, I believe the 9 rating is fair for this area.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : East Of Wrath (5.9)
By: Greg D When: Jan 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Decent route. Worth doing especially if you have been up Flakes several times, slightly easier too. Rock quality is not the greatest towards the top but gear is good.
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