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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Tan Buttress's : Noth'N But a Good Time (5.10+ R)
By: Greg Cameron When: Aug 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Had a great time on this route today. The rock quality is not as good as the Black Wall, and it climbs differently, but there are some interesting and hard passages. The 2nd and 4th pitches involve some pretty heads up climbing with less than optimal protection.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall
By: Greg Cameron When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perhaps it was a mistake on my part by making up a new crag name, Roofer Madness Wall, rather than sticking with the Black Wall. The Roofer Madness Wall is the mainly north-facing wall to the climber's left of the east-facing Black Wall and part of the same cirque. I get the feeling that most folks perusing the climbs in this area probably completely miss the reference to the Roofer Madness Wall.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : South Face of Tower One (5.10c R)
By: Greg Cameron When: May 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Funny that someone should just mention that the pin is good. My friend took a 4-foot fall onto the pin yesterday, which not only pulled, but also expanded the flake such that other gear in the flake pulled out and he ended up taking a 30-foot whipper.
So, the pin is no longer there. However, as I recall from doing this route a couple of years ago, there is a perfect slot for a #3 Camalot just below where the pin was. This should adequately protect the section. Without that #3 th... more >>
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Cave Area : Greg's Crack (5.11+)
By: Greg Cameron When: Feb 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Back in the '70s, we knew this as Cricket's Chimney. Cricket, was a reference to Tom Gibson's younger brother who was so skinny that he could chimney the thing.
I have no idea whether I did the FA of this or not, although I can't remember ever not being able to do it.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Summit Area : Ogre (5.11b)
By: Greg Cameron When: Jan 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: With all due respect, I was not on the FA of this route. My guess is that it was Rick Piggott and someone.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Air Voyage (5.12-)
By: Greg Cameron When: Jan 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mn, you are correct. I actually described the Eighth Voyage finish. It is by far the most obvious way to go...just stay in the crack.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Coffee Achievers (5.10+)
By: Greg Cameron When: Jul 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did Coffee Achievers again with Ken Trout on Sunday. It was the first time since the first ascent for him, and maybe since 16 years ago for me. We did it in 6 pitches. I would say the pitches go 5.9, 5.10b, 5.10b, 5.10c/d, 5.9, 5.10a. I updated my description of the shared portion of the route with Espresso in the Espresso route description. Apparently, this is a little different (better and easier) than the way Ken and Peter exited the route on the FA.
I think this is the best route (... more >>
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Freeway (5.11c)
By: Greg Cameron When: Jul 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: First ascent was by Tom Gibson and Rob Rohn - 1979 (I was there).
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Squaw : Pipeline (5.10+)
By: Greg Cameron When: Jul 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Peter, yeah, I'm that G. Cameron. Haven't been back to Squamish since that trip in 1979 that included doing Pipeline. By the way, the same trip saw the first ascent of Freeway by my buddies Tom Gibson and Rob Rohn. I love Squamish.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Squaw : Pipeline (5.10+)
By: Greg Cameron When: Jun 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike's stuff is indeed amusing.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Plumb Line Crag : Big Pink (5.11b)
By: Greg Cameron When: May 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Put me in the camp of this is somewhat underrated. I tried to straight in arm-bar it - and, well, couldn't pull it off. Does everybody who's done this do that fist-stack thing like the picture of Scarpelli in the guide?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Rim Routes : Photo
By: Greg Cameron When: May 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Love this picture! It's now my Windows background
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : The Big Baby (5.11)
By: Greg Cameron When: Apr 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I went up there with just two new No. 5s (Camalots) and was wishing I had a No. 6 for the last 10-15 feet. Those No. 5s were tipped out for much of the last part. I have a hard time believing that a No. 6 would not fit up there.
This is a hard and interesting route requiring multiple OW techniques.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : October Light (5.11)
By: Greg Cameron When: Aug 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wonder what most folks think the crux is on this route? I thought it was the beginning hand crack. Above that, nothing felt harder than 5.10d. Since I've been failing on some other things at the Voo, I'd have to think this is soft for Scarpelli 5.11b.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cary Granite (5.11c)
By: Greg Cameron When: Jul 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this again yesterday with Tom Dickey. The flake that you need to pull on at the crux is so sharp that I cut my fingers pretty badly this go round. I would definitely suggest taping your fingers at the first and third joints.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Greg Cameron When: Apr 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Took the big fall (30 ft) on Saturday on the crux pitch. I had done this climb several times in the past, and I remember telling George that I'd never fallen on that 4th pitch. I couldn't seem to get a small cam to seat very well, I was wearing really soft shoes that didn't want to hold an edge, and maybe the sun was in my eyes or something - but I ended up pulling the small cam and falling 30 feet onto the bolt (and a certain Christine, who was gettting ready to follow the Doub-Griffith). Go... more >>
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : The Cruise (5.10+)
By: Greg Cameron When: Mar 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I figure someone had to comment. Doesn't anybody do this route anymore? The Cruise is a better line than the Scenic Cruise and arguably just as good. The offwidth on it is quite reasonable. This is the first route I ever did in the Black...with Dan Grandusky in 1989 or 1990. I remember it as being an absolutely fantastic climb.
Just did the route again in June 2009 with Adam Francis. After combining the first two pitches (but belaying about 25 feet lower than we could have) Adam used AL... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Cannonball Corner (5.10c)
By: Greg Cameron When: Jun 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just did this again with Rob Dillon on Saturday. The route's better than I remember and completely dry.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Goss-Logan (5.11 R)
By: Greg Cameron When: Mar 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's been about 15 years ago now, but I thoroughly enjoyed this route. It probably has more loose rock than any other Black Canyon route I've done, but a few of the pitches are stellar. The loose sections can actually be fun if you have the right mindset.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Robbins Boulder : Lie Detector (5.12a/b C1)
By: Greg Cameron When: Mar 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm pretty sure that Rick Piggot did the first ascent.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Summit Area : The Test Tube (5.11)
By: Greg Cameron When: Mar 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Man! This is a great climb! I do this just about every time I do the Crucible. There's no 180 degree thing required. There are a couple of hard moves right off of the ledge.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Jaws Boulder Area : Jaws (5.11a V1)
By: Greg Cameron When: Mar 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rick Piggot did the first ascent of this around 1976.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Air Voyage (5.12-)
By: Greg Cameron When: Jan 18, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brad. Like I'm not gonna remember you (OK, so with my bad memory maybe that's not so far-fetched). Great "story behind the topo". Here's to Derek, Clean Dan, and magical days climbing and hanging in the Black Canyon.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : South Rim Routes : Flakes, The (5.10+ X)
By: Greg Cameron When: Oct 6, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this with ?? (a guy I just met the week before) in 1992 and we both thought it was an excellent route. The contribution here is that we did it by starting on the north rim, hiking down the SOB gully, crossing the river, and then third classing (on pretty scary stuff) to the start. At the top we hiked to the next downstream gully, scrambled down the gully (with one short rappel, I think), re-crossed the river, and then hiked back out the SOB. We got back to camp at dusk. I wouldn't have t... more >>
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