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Member Since: Dec 3, 2009
Last Visit: Dec 10, 2012
Contact Greg Sudlow


Point Rank: # 656
Total Points: 896
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
14 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (334) | Routes (62) | Areas (10) | Photos (21) | Comments (21) | Posts | Stars (173) | Ratings (47)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: PA : Mount Gretna : 45 Area : Triangle (V3) : Photo
By: Greg Sudlow When: Oct 12, 2012

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Comments: This problem is Triangle. Slopey Feature is to the right on the same boulder.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Flash Point Area : Flash Point (5.11d)
By: Greg Sudlow When: Oct 1, 2012

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Comments: Writer rated route 5.12a but it is listed as a 5.11d in the Williams guide book. At 5.11d I found it tough and defintely not soft. Make sure you use long runners down low or you will pay with rope drag when clipping the up sections.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Beauty Mountain : The Brain : Brain Wave (5.7)
By: Greg Sudlow When: Aug 30, 2011

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Comments: Sling the jug ten feet up from the start for great natural pro. It comes supplied with a friendly little numb on the left side that keeps your slings in place.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall : Four Sheets to the Wind (5.9+)
By: Greg Sudlow When: Aug 25, 2011

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Comments: As of 25-Aug-2011 there was a Wasps nest inside the creacks right at the anchors. Someone had written a note in chalk on the wall at the start of the climb warning me about their presence but I figured heh... maybe that an old note. It wasn't and I got a strike to the chest. Luckly I had just clipped the second anchor and dropped out of range as the little buggers swarmed... can't ruin my OS!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Orange Oswald Wall : Moon Pie Deluxe (5.10d)
By: Greg Sudlow When: Aug 25, 2011

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Comments: A terrible bolt job to start off a terrible route. Do yourself a favor and skip this one and take Barfing Butterflies just to the right instead - its much, much better with a substantially similar line - techy face lead to roof and slopers above.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Orange Oswald Wall : PDS (5.10a)
By: Greg Sudlow When: Aug 25, 2011

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Comments: The route may feel a little harder on lead because of a sloppy bolt job through the middle which breaks up the flow. Also, the first bolt seems unnecessarily high but this may keep the crowds at bay and leave the route open on busy weekends.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Orange Oswald Wall : Orange Dihedral (5.9+)
By: Greg Sudlow When: Aug 25, 2011

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Comments: Yes, this is "The Hell with That" and used to be a sport route. Good option on a busy weekend since its mixed status will likely mean its open. If has its own designated set of anchors.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Try Again (5.10b)
By: Greg Sudlow When: May 14, 2010

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Comments: A stout 5.10b. Note, after climbing to the large ledge 15 feet up place a piece in the shoulder high flake before moving up the face on good holds to the crack above. It will be awhile until you get another piece of pro and although the flake piece wonít protect you from crashing into the ledge if you fall, it will keep you from tumbling and hitting the deck below.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Graveyard Shift (5.10d PG13)
By: Greg Sudlow When: May 14, 2010

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Comments: Thrice the first comment above, it is a shame that original route post canít be edited if they tell so little about the route. Nevertheless, this climb is one of the best in the Gunks with great variation, technical moves and stellar positioning.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Belly Roll (5.4)
By: Greg Sudlow When: May 14, 2010

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Comments: While the short (and not so great) first pitch has the "Bell Roll" move, its the easy but exposed second pitch that gives this climb its star power. Enjoy the fun jug haul to the top but make sure to back up those old pins!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bubba City : Sandstonia : Mrs. Field's Follies (5.8)
By: Greg Sudlow When: May 14, 2010

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Comments: The roof at the end makes this 5.8 unique and one of the NRG's best in grade.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Orange Oswald Wall : Orange Oswald (5.10a)
By: Greg Sudlow When: May 14, 2010

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Comments: Like most of the routes on the Orange Oswald wall, this namesake is over climbed and over chalked. The whole area would move up 1 or 2 stars if the impact lessened. If you are thinking about going to the lake, I would avoid this wall and focus instead on the Gun Wall or Sunrise Wall.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : The Long Wall : World at War (5.11d)
By: Greg Sudlow When: May 14, 2010

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Comments: World at War is one of those great routes whose only crime is that it sits beside an aesthetically pleasing neighbor climb Ė in this case the beautiful arÍte Under the Milky Way (5.11d). As a consequence, World at War sees too little traffic for the quality climbing it packs in. So the next time youíre at Summersville, let the crowds wait for Milk Way, step a few feet to the right and take the short line to the top of World at War. Beware it is long and tough for its grade!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : The Long Wall : Personal Pronoun (5.9+)
By: Greg Sudlow When: May 14, 2010

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Comments: For a 5.9 this is pretty good. Straight forward with excellent rest in the horizontals which seem to be perfectly placed every few moves. A good first lead for someone in the 5.9 grade.


Location: WV : Franklin Gorge : Walk the Plank (5.11a)
By: Greg Sudlow When: May 14, 2010

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Comments: Directions above seem off. This climb shares start with Barnacle Bill (5.11b). Follow Barnacle Bill for a few bolts between good horizontals. Just below small blocky roof go left on jugs passing a bolt and rock up to good holds out on face. Gain stance and then continue up easier ground to top. Use long draws in beginning to avoid rope drag. Climb probably goes at 5.10d.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fern Point - Party Buttress : Stim-O-Stam (5.11c)
By: Greg Sudlow When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: Route is nice and shaded in the late afternoon.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fern Point : Mellifluous (5.11a)
By: Greg Sudlow When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: I donít really know how to pronounce this climb and apparently I donít know how to climb it either as I got totally dismantled in the middle section. But seriously, the climb is stellar especially the expose, juggy top. Thank you Chad Heddleston for setting this one up on lead!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fern Point - Party Buttress : Party in My Mind (5.10b)
By: Greg Sudlow When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: Classic, classic, classic. This route seems to gone or forever or maybe that is because it took me forever to lead it. Thank goodness for the good gear and great rest spots! If you're not in the mood to lead it then set-up a TR off the top overlook and rap down. The anchors are just a foot or two below the lip. Be careful and tie in to something before leaning over the edge!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fern Point - Party Buttress : Exoduster (5.10b/c)
By: Greg Sudlow When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: Route is over chalked and really not that great. Sees a lot of traffic since it is one of the few 5.10 sport routes in the area.


Location: PA : Whiskey Springs : Webber Boulder : Webber Seam (V4)
By: Greg Sudlow When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: One of the best problems at Whiskey. Easy to protect and great landing zone.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Dr. Ruth's Big Buttress : The Grafenbeg Crack (5.9-)
By: Greg Sudlow When: Apr 23, 2010

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Comments: Great climb with PG protection. Height is closer to 80 ft. Break left at top to reach anchors above The Diddler (5.10a). From those anchors you can TR The Diddler or set a directional and TR Idiotsyncracies (5.11b). Both are good climbs.