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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : St. Vrain ice : East of Peak to Peak - S. S... : Skidmark Left (WI5+)
By: Greg Sievers When: Jan 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought Skid Marks left was an outstanding verglas route. one of the best sport ice routes I've ever done. To have bolts was awesome, especially when climbing on 1/2" to 1" ice. What a brilliant find. I would have to give this one 3-stars and maybe even 4. Thanks Kevin & Edward for letting me have the tasty seconds. Bummer Rambo had to settle for thirdies :)
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : St. Vrain ice : East of Peak to Peak - S. S... : Road Rash (WI5+ M6)
By: Greg Sievers When: Jan 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey all. If I'm following this discussion correctly, I'd like to add: that in winter/ice conditions, we were thinking that bolt was pretty dam nice. Edward did place a green Alien in the roof/lap as you can clearly see in the photo (with long sling on it). But it was pretty spicy climbing between the 2 points.
As it was, he worked pretty hard for the red Camalot for the next placement and didn't trust it, til he fell on it.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : World Cup Wall
By: Greg Sievers When: Jan 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's my guess that this wall will form up every year. However, it does appear its best season may well be November and December. As of early January 2007, many of the initial moves are missing. Edward was able to boulder up and stick the ice on 'Roof of the World' because the snow is so high now.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : St. Vrain ice : East of Peak to Peak - S. S... : Dead Men Chipping (WI4+ R)
By: Greg Sievers When: Jan 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: We very much enjoyed the route today (1/21). What a fine treat. Good eye. Bob J. told me you've been eyeing that drip for years?
All the other comments are right-on except for the single rope usage. Your pin/nut achor is good, but I would not suggest trying to rap off with a single thread. I don't see any reason to try down-climbing 20' of very thin ice. We used a 70m rope and the result would have been the same. I was glad to have the 2nd rope and rap to the ground.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : All Mixed Up (WI4 R)
By: Greg Sievers When: Nov 17, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: 11-12-06, it looks like the ice is fat this year. Dougald & I climbed a variation to Organ Pipes - off to the far right that went at about M5-6 which made for a great way to get up onto the main upper flow. It seems this area has a lot to offer for new routes. Enjoy it.
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Location: CO
By: Greg Sievers When: Oct 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: LUMPY RIDGE, Estes Park, CO
NPS officials at Rocky Mountain National Park have indicated they hope to open the new Twin Owls parking lot immediately following paving, they are shooting for Memorial Day 2007.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Fist Fight (5.10d)
By: Greg Sievers When: Sep 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would strongly suggest you up that rack to include 2-3 ea. #4 Camalots. John Tormelehto (aka OWM) did a fine job of on-sighting this one, but my fist fighting skills seemed to have dropped off a bit. Snivel, snivel.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : Lost Arrowhead (5.10a PG13)
By: Greg Sievers When: Sep 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey George; long time no contact. Yup, I emailed w/ Bernard last month with much the same comment. Didn't know you were tied to him, but the stemming pic is a dead give-away, yup, that's the same one. Bernard had suggested it might be. No surprise, it's too obvious a line to have waited this long for an ascent, and I also concur that the old webbing indicates previous activity. So, I'll have to review this site, and see about changing the FA over to you 2. So, tell us all how you got... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Twister (5.10)
By: Greg Sievers When: Aug 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing is heinous. I think Crack of Fear is easier. The pinch start on the first pitch may not be the crux: which means it'll only get harder. I had to yield to the All Mighty OWM (pronounced OOHHMMM). That's really "Off Width Master" -- John T.
I received a firm spanking. :(
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Chiefshead Northwest Face : Birds of Fire (5.11a R)
By: Greg Sievers When: Jul 31, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had a grand time yesterday on this route, albeit, extremely focused. Paul Foster did a great job keeping cool leading the 3rd pitch. The approach, as well as the route, are completely dry. A masterpiece of a slab route. I was thinking that Chiefshead is to slab climbing what the Diamond is to crack climbing....
I replaced the taddy slings on the station atop pitch 6 with threaded links. If you go up, do the route a favor, replace the single aluminum rap rings on both bolts at station's 2 & ... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Wolf's Tooth (5.8)
By: Greg Sievers When: Nov 21, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: It might sound sick, but I've climbed this route about 17 times. Living locally, I give my visiting friends the choice of Lumpy routes. Many WANT to do Conad's & Wolf's Tooth, or can only climb for 1/2 day and want the ultimate Lumpy *classics*. I find them solidly graded and quite equal, albeit technically different. However, I would never send out a 5.8 leader on to it. It might be 5.8 climbing if you hit the sequences perfectly: y'all just better have your 5.9 head screwed on tight. :)
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Syke's Sickle (5.9+)
By: Greg Sievers When: Aug 31, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: DESCENT:there are several descents listed for Spearhead. I am still amused at folks who head north or rap the north ridge. A very safe and plesant stroll is to walk west to the lowest point in the saddle between Spearhead and Chiefshead, and turn left - SOUTH. Then stay to your left and head east, down ledges. It is mostly 3rd class and one tiny section of 4th. I've done this about 8 times over 15 years, it kewl.
Just continue to keep left and head east from the saddle. You will follow a long ... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Ship's Prow : Portal (5.9 PG13)
By: Greg Sievers When: Aug 31, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This really is a fine route, after you goat hump your way up and around the chockstones of the first pitch. I agree that the dihedral pitch is outstanding! It's a real kick to look down a 5.9 and see you rope dangling away from the wall, thru your draws. The last pitch of OW can be avoided by jaming up into it then traversing out right on a small edge/ledge. This will also facilitate you finding the 1st rappel station. Be careful, it's slippery out there. I thought I remembered 3 fairly dir... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Martha (5.6 WI2+ M2-3)
By: Greg Sievers When: Oct 19, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: this outstanding route is a fun day and sunny, when all else is howling shit. the ice is fun (WI-3) and the cruxes can be stemmed. bring 3-4 stubbing screws and camalots .5 thru #3 and a couple KB's. the left side rock in the gully is quite compact, while the right side is fractured and loose. tag the summit and descend the east face to arrive at the hitching post. truely a delight.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq...
By: Greg Sievers When: Oct 19, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Alexander Chimney: looked choked full of snow.Smear of Fear: about 3/4 of the way ready.Crazy Train: verglas and growing.South Face of Lady Wash: was fat last Sat. but also just took 2 hot sunny days.8th Route: looked awesomeLady Wash., SW face-gully: climbed it. was great. need beta on any previous ascent or beta???????
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Martha (5.6 WI2+ M2-3)
By: Greg Sievers When: Oct 19, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Eds. this was moved to this page.
I climbed a gully/ice route on the Southwest face of Mt. Lady Washington with Tom Jensen last Saturday. The Sunshine Gully - I'll call it for now contained 4 full pitches of WI3, M4 kinda fun stuff. Has anyone done this? Know of it, or beta on it? Approach by Chasm Lake, about 1/2 way around the lake on the normal trail. Bust up right on scree and into the gully. Top out by the summit and retreat by hiking down the east face of Mt. Lady Wash. Your inpu... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mount of the Holy Cross : Holy Cross Couloir
By: Greg Sievers When: Jun 28, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I sure wish I could have found some accurate approach beta before the bushwacking between the Cross Creek campground and Lake Patricia. But I didn't; but I will share the good beta with you all. Immediately after crossing the creek, go 30' and take a left (at a no fires sign), walk through a couple of campsites, proceed across another creeklet and come to a Wall. Access is available either way around and up this wall, but to the right is easier. This faint trail will lead to Bowl of T... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Orange Julius (5.10a R)
By: Greg Sievers When: Jun 22, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Once you reach the left end of the roof on P1, stem out to the left and place pro in 'that' crack (same one the tree is in) this will redirect your rope away from the roof's pinch corner and thereby avoid any hassles. I concur with Steve: run P2 & 3 together and P5 & 6, then scramble up and right to exit. This will allow you to avoid death by 5.0 rambling.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice
By: Greg Sievers When: Jun 22, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hallet Chimney is still climbable, albeit, wet.it's all good. I think?no, there's no ice, dont be silly. yes there is a little snow. yes you can climb all of the pitches bare handed if you have some tollerance for cold water and wet rock.actually i was surprised that Tom Jensen and i were actually able to stay dry. even in the crux; i just climbed the left wall and left side of the chock stone. anyone wanting to learn some of the beta of this route, could actually enjoy it now and appl... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice
By: Greg Sievers When: May 3, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: ROCKY MTN. NATIONAL PARKanyone digging the alpine white can get out and get sassy on any number of mixed routes and snow routes in RMNP now. things are really shaping up nicely and have been for a few weeks. a sweet hike up Dragon Tail gully was on styrofoam all the way, yesterday. in fact, theres good corn to ski it too. The Trough on the west face of Longs has been done a couple times too.
NEWS FLASH homey: Hallet Chimney looks fuckin awesome!! the second pitch is ice and the chock stone p... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Wolf Creek Pass/San Luis Va... : Wolf Creek Pass- West Side : Treasure Falls (WI4-5)
By: Greg Sievers When: Dec 16, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Like Santa Claus, Fat and Beautiful. the snow line was several hundred feet up the pass, but it just snowed a foot. the golden ice falls on the east side of the pass is also looking quite fat.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge
By: Greg Sievers When: Nov 19, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: the existing Twin Owls parking lot is a lost cause. My meeting with the NPS Regional Directors office along with AAC staff and Congressman Udall's staff was to request a review period following the construction of the new parking lot and see if traffic thru the MacGregor Ranch deminished.and perhaps keep the old lot for winter use. However, NPS legal opinion is that there has "never" been a legal public access across the Ranch. the new parking lot will be designed soon, with construction biddin... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg...
By: Greg Sievers When: Sep 29, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hallett, "Bullet" is awaiting a second ascent. WI-3, M-6 this route went up a couple winters ago by me and Brad Grohusky. It is easily found below and left of Hallet Chimney, in a small flow that exits the lower left buttress at the top of the snowfield. The ice peters out about 50' up. The following rock diheadral ends at a huge roof. exit to the left, thru the crux. Hike up onto the next ledge, and find a fixed pin on the next wall to make a 200' rappel to the ground. I will try to post the ... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed)
By: Greg Sievers When: Dec 3, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nov 30 - Dec 1. Ouray & Skylight areasthe ICE PARK is still CLOSED but looking good and growing.The SKYLIGHT area is about 50%. Skylight and Choppo's are in. the tops are quite thin and mixed, with running water and disconnected ice. Chockstone and other III's are in. Good thin ice on the bolted route. The RIBBON is getting traffic. bottom is narrow & thin, fatter as you go up.Bird Brain is very thin or all rock. Red Mountain Pass near the Avi-shed area has some awesome new ice for the taki... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton
By: Greg Sievers When: Dec 3, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nov 30 - Dec 1, Eureka area. County road & parking are good. Stairway to Heaven - good but modest and hopefully growing. lots of traffic on weekends.1st & 2nd Gully are fat. Goldrush is all there but rotting out in current warm front. Hoser's Highway has a very impressive and thick pillar - long approach.
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