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Rock Climbing Photo: Georgeous!


Member Since: Nov 14, 2001
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Greg Opland
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Point Rank: # 4,650
Total Points: 110
Last Year: 35
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 126 | Routes | Areas 4 | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 31 | Posts 86 | Stars | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Cattle Pocket and Corridors... : ... : Photo
By: Greg Opland When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Is it me, or does that look like the Slab Route (10a) ???


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : ... : Photo
By: Greg Opland When: Feb 1, 2016

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Comments: 40 to 50 foot runout? Maybe 20-25 if you have a #4 Camalot. You have a piece right there in the base of the start, then it narrows once you get up in there.

ccmski is completely correct. This is a Karl's Korner pitch, NOT the third pitch of Classic. Third pitch of Classic goes up the sort of corner/flake east of the belay bush/tree. You go up that, then break right and head up a sort of 12" ramp up the lefthand wall. Step across at the top to gain a crack system headed up across to the f... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond
By: Greg Opland When: Dec 27, 2015

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Comments: Heather Fischer says:
I've heard of a mysterious alternate approach for dogs to The Pond, but have yet to discover it. There is an alternative trail on the Marty's map, does anyone have any beta on this other approach?


Looking at Marty's map, I see a trail leading out left along the base of the lower area, but no alternate trail marked. Could be my version is old or something.

Still...

a) I have two dogs. Love for them to go with us when we do stuff, but there are places where... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : The Tombstone : Photo
By: Greg Opland When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: climbaz.com/Backcountry/page_h...


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Prescott Areas : Sullivan's Canyon : Lower Sullivan's : Photo (Copy)
By: Greg Opland When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: Ha! I actually intended to put that on the map... ooops.
I'll update when I have a few minutes.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Raven Rocks : ... : Photo
By: Greg Opland When: Dec 1, 2015

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Comments: He's pining for the fjords!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : The Mine Area : Lower Looner Land : Photo
By: Greg Opland When: Nov 30, 2015

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Comments: Haven't done it in a LONG time, but here's a shot from Jan. '96 on that left route and Virgin Vinyl (R). Seem to recall it was thin, but a decent route. No big pockets, just old skool Queen Creek, pulling the skin off your pads off on crimpy holds.




Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Sven Slab : Dark Passage (5.10c)
By: Greg Opland When: Nov 17, 2015

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Comments: Best to think of a lot of Phoenix granite routes as "old school", with all that implies. I can remember when 5.9 was a pretty proud grade around here (and it still is on some climbs).


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : The Pit : Nose Rock : Unknown (5.9)
By: Greg Opland When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: Anyone know if this route is the same as THIS ONE ??

I see there's another route that appears to be between the Unknown 5.9 and Castillo, so maybe this is that route?


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : The Slammer Jam (5.10)
By: Greg Opland When: Sep 11, 2015

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Comments: Friend pointed these comments out to me and I'm curious... it appears from these LMA notes that were in the '73 guide that Treiber and Byrd aided the last pitch of Good, Bad, and Ugly on the FA of Slammer Jam, but there seems like more to the story.
I'd be very interested in hearing more!

Mountain Project won't let me post it big enough to read, so you'll have to click a few times to get to a readable version...

Rock Climbing Photo: LMA Notes from the '73 Guide To Granite Mountain
LMA Notes from the '73 Guide To Granite Mountain



Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : Magnolia Thunderpussy (5.9)
By: Greg Opland When: Sep 9, 2015

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Comments: One area is notoriously sandbagged


Wait...what? You mean the Dells are sandbagged?!!!
Ha ha ha haha.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain
By: Greg Opland When: Sep 1, 2015

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Comments: I didn't have any issues following the regular climber's trail over to the Front Porch. It didn't seem to have that much damage to it most of the way, but the Swamp Slabs trail is a complete mess last time I saw it.

I've heard the Forest Service is sort of against the idea of cairning or marking a path to establish a trail, but if that doesn't happen, then all the braided damage from the main climber's trail over to the Swamp Slabs is just going to get worse. I would think a lightly marked trai... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain
By: Greg Opland When: Jul 24, 2015

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Comments: The trail over to the Front Porch should be okay as always. Gets a little grassy, but the season should knock that back down just fine. At least that's my experience from the last couple years. The fire didn't really do much damage to the trail over there.

On the other hand, the fire pretty much wiped out the trail up to the Swamp Slabs, and the time since has done nothing to help that out (lots of braided crap). An effort should be made to mark out an approach trail for that side, and try to k... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : Photo
By: Greg Opland When: Jun 21, 2015

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Comments: After pitch 1, you traverse left around the corner. That's where pitch 2 is, with pitch 3 going up the (roughly) south side of the tower. Looks like from your line, you went straight up from the first belay.




Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Amateur Hour (5.9)
By: Greg Opland When: Jun 9, 2015

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Comments: Route you're describing to the left is Long Walk (5.8).


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Morrell's Wall Parking Lot : Xerxes (5.9 R)
By: Greg Opland When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: There are a couple small diffs. He left out the crack.


From Phoenix Rock II, c.1996
"This route is at the north end of the rockpile on a large face split by a horizontal crack. Start at the lower left end of the face at the base of a right-leaning fist crack. Climb crack to face, traversing up and right past 1st bolt to horizontal crack. Pass crack and 2nd bolt to undercling pocket. Step left and up past 3rd bolt to top."


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Morrell's Wall Parking Lot : Xerxes (5.9 R)
By: Greg Opland When: May 1, 2015

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Comments: That's a nice description.

And it was when I typed it back in the early 90's as well.
Please don't copy my guidebook into Mountain Project.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Far East : The White Elephant (aka Com...
By: Greg Opland When: Mar 19, 2015

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Comments: Map to the Comet Wall:




Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Rattlesnake Wash Hillside : ... : Photo
By: Greg Opland When: Mar 13, 2015

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Comments: Ain't it more like this? :-)




Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Photo
By: Greg Opland When: Feb 16, 2015

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Comments: Looks more like the last (new) pitch of Absinthe?


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Tom's Thumb : Hot Line (5.10b)
By: Greg Opland When: Feb 12, 2015

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Comments: No worries Kevin. Just seems like every time I climb Tom's Thumb, there are more bolts pounded into the top. Just sharing some low-impact hope for anyone (reading this) that might be thinking about adding to the heap.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Doomsday (5.9+)
By: Greg Opland When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: They're pretty beefy buttonheads, but as a bolt type, buttonheads should be some of the easier ones to get back out... maybe. :-)




Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Doomsday (5.9+)
By: Greg Opland When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: You have to love the new bolt replacement paradigm exhibited on this route...don't do any real work to do a careful, low-impact job, just slam new bolts in next to the old ones and leave a big mess behind. Disgusting.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : Little Granite Mountain : Mogul Wall
By: Greg Opland When: Jan 5, 2015

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Comments: It's sort of demoralizing to your guidebook get pieced out and posted for free online. I spent a lot of time working on it to do the best job I could and it just gets served up one piece at a time.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Tom's Thumb : Hot Line (5.10b)
By: Greg Opland When: Dec 25, 2014

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Comments: Crusty old guy comment...

I'm kind of curious what you mean by "poorly placed" anchors. You pretty much have to construct your own for this route and belay someone from the top. I was just up there a little over a week ago. You can see the holes where the knucklehead put bolts in at the top so he could (seriously) solo aid-climb this line on top rope.

So this is a build-your-own like it always has been, and belay your second from the top (aka TOPrope). It wasn't that long ago when you had to h... more >>


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