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Rock Climbing Photo: Greenhorn - Solar Collector Wall - RRG, KY


Member Since: Apr 29, 2009
Last Visit: 38 mins ago
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Greg Kuchyt
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Point Rank: # 795
Total Points: 981
Last Year: 223
Last 30 Days: 7
12 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 573 | Routes 49 | Areas 13 | Photos 37 | Page Improvements | Comments 111 | Posts 67 | Stars 183 | Ratings 113
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : 82 Main Wall : Block Party (5.10a)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 21, 2016

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Comments: The bolt that Kameron mentions was evaluated and replaced. I think someone had tightened it down in the interim because when we looked at it this morning it was properly tightened but the hanger was loose. This is due to the fact that the bolt is so far left that it experiences a anti-clockwise force due to the rope pull which will lead to the bolt loosening over time. That's likely what Kameron saw based upon what he described when I contacted him via PM. D. Doucet and I eva... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Talking Crack (5.6)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 19, 2016

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Comments: You can get by with just a 3 on this.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Tea in the Sahara (5.10b)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 19, 2016

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Comments: After a final evaluation I removed the last bolt entirely but re-positioned the 4th bolt a few meters lower. I discovered that the "bomber" red C3/blue alien placement mid-way between the 3rd bolt and the crux roof was formed by two large hollow blocks. Given that the holds in this section are a lot of hollow flakes and the fact that the corner to the left bulges out below, I compromised on the side of fall protection. The fourth bolt is now a couple meters below wh... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : What's up, doc? (5.9 R)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: I think this is actually the route Say Goodnight Dick. What's Up Doc? is to the left of the arete.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Diedre (5.8)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: Before climbing this route I thought the comments regarding the soft ratings were a bit outlandish, but having done the route I feel like each pitch is one to two number grades off.

Despite the Top 100 status, my personal opinion is if you can confidently climb 5.9 then avoid the crowds, climb Snake, and don't worry about missing Diedre. I thought Snake was a significantly better route (minus the start and finish) that gave you similar climbing but with each pitch having a d... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Bone Mountain : The Main Cliff : A. Left End : Jolly Roger (5.10b/c)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: The most reputable of the rolled aluminum rings are rated at 14kN MBS, hopefully this single one is from a reputable manufacturer. Best practice would be to add another one or some other backup on that anchor. Steel rings are stronger and can be used individually but these alu rings should be placed in pairs.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Catch Me Quick(er) (5.10b)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: This is likely a route best for a confident 5.10 leader. I used a half dozen pieces from fingers up to a #3.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Shannon Falls : Jump to Light Speed (5.10c)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 30, 2016

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Comments: Save a .5 BD sized piece for the end of the crack, the lack of a bolt assumes you have good gear at the end of the crack (which is reasonable if you actually have that size at that point).


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Ridge Runner (5.8)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 26, 2016

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Comments: The Bourdon guide's gear beta for this is not really accurate. You only need some RPs and a couple finger/tips sized cams (doubled-up, because why not?) for the obvious crack before the first bolt. The protection is reasonable for a confident 5.9 climber and I felt the bolt placements were pretty right on. If you're not a strong friction climber you'll likely wish there was closer pro at the top and a fall would likely be unpleasant.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Tea in the Sahara (5.10b)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: I feel like this route and Sticks and Stones are akin to Discombobulated and Legacy in the New River Gorge. Sticks is the classic like Legacy and Tea is the ugly-duckling that is either loved or hated. In both cases I guess I see the diamond in the rough and I think Tea is a worthwhile route. A few tips and finger sized cams and a number 1 C4 are all you need for gear.

I replaced the hardware on this last year after talking with Mark about how to handle the litany of non-FA party bolts added. F... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Hailstorm (5.10a R)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: The crux is protected by an acceptable small wire and cam (TCUs and C3s helpful) that can be equalized. Use a screamer if you really want to feel warm and soft inside. Small gear takes care and patience in the best of times. Even some of the larger gear on this route takes patience and skill to set in the best manner. With the requisite bag of skills, it's PG.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : 82 Main Wall : The Politics of Dancing (5.10a PG13)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jun 3, 2016

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Comments: The anchor is about 20 ft down and left of the Chimp Crimp anchor in an alcove/left-facing corner.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Booty Wall Area : Full Circle (5.11a/b)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: May 25, 2016

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Comments: Given that once again the lower-off biners on this route were taken, it's now equipped with fixed pig-tails at the anchor.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Azure Mountain : Photo
By: Greg Kuchyt When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: Yes, this is Fubby Dub and the ledge in the bottom right is the Dinner Table ledge.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Azure Mountain : Photo
By: Greg Kuchyt When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: I don't know what the story with this rope is. I think it appeared during the summer of 2012 or 2011. My guess was that someone fixed all that looking to work a route there and then abandoned it. If I remember correctly. I found that quite annoying as I was working a route above the Dinner Table and would haul about 50# of gear in each time I went out to clean, etc. That was prior to me leaving the area in 2013.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Bolton Quarry : Cat's Ass Wall : Eye of the Cougar (5.12c)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: May 19, 2016

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Comments: The hardware on this route was replaced with glue-ins and there is now a proper two-bolt anchor. There is a 2-foot hollow flake in the final overlap that should be treated with caution.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : 82 Main Wall : Year of the Dog (5.10d)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: May 14, 2016

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Comments: D. Doucet and I replaced the left-hand hanger with a stainless ring hanger salvaged, cleaned, and re-passivated from the batch of bolts removed doing hardware replacement. The link that was there was plated steel and the rap ring was an aluminum rap ring. It worked, but what's there now is a bit more robust.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : 82 Steep Wall : Afro Samurai (5.11d)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: May 3, 2016

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Comments: D. Delay and I changed out the plated steel quicklinks and aluminum biners at the top with hardware from the Access Fund/American Alpine Club/local funded hardware replacement pool today. This route now has "pigtails" at the lower-off point. These may take some getting used to in order to thread quickly but they are more durable and won't degrade over time like the springs in a carabiner. One of the biners there already had a stiff gate that wasn't closing properly. You can always clip the bolt ... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag : Goin' Postal (5.11-)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Apr 16, 2016

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Comments: Hardware was replaced on April 16th with hardware from the pool acquired with American Alpine Club / Access Fund grant and local climber contributions. Thanks to those who donated and to the AAC & AF.


Location: VT : * Vermont Ice Climbing : Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 03W - ENT Gully Area : ENT Gully (WI2)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jan 4, 2016

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Comments: Yes, it is possible to rap from P1, with two ropes! There is a tree with a rap anchor.

Oui, vous pouvez descendre le premiere longeur avec deux cordes. Il y a un relais sur un arbre.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Bolton Quarry : Dwarf Wall : Anxious (5.11+)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Oct 8, 2015

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Comments: The natural line for this route trends up and right to the anchor on Dopey so don't let the lack of an proper anchor dissuade you from the enjoyable aesthetic technical climbing on this route. It's a sleeper quality climb once you work out the moves.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : North End : The Thorn (5.11a)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Oct 5, 2015

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Comments: Edit: Now having fully read your comment Kris...

If it was a spinner and a wedge bolt (which it looks like in the video) the hole probably wasn't cleaned enough and debris clogged the sleeve/cone interface. Maybe the bolt wasn't torqued properly either and the load/unload cycle of lowers/raps loosened up the expansion collar. Those would be typical causes of a spinner for such a new bolt. It would be interesting to know if the bolt ever tightened properly or was a spinner at installation... more >>


Location: NH : WM: Bartlett / Jackson Area : White's Ledge : Finesse (5.10c)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: The climbing around the 3rd and 4th bolts is kind of unclear as to which way to go. You can either go left into October Wind or right on a right-facing flake. Either work and I'm not sure which is supposed to be the intended line. Otherwise I think this is a really worth while line. A light rack of cams from a green c3 to a .75 C4 was useful.


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Laurentians : Julien-Labedan : ... : Trident (5.10)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 17, 2015

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Comments: It will depend on the size of your hand!

If you can't get a hand or tight hand jam look at doing a ring lock (finger stack). Don't forget about jamming your feet!

A good resource for learning jamming techniques is The Crack Climber's Technique Manual by Kent Pease.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Lower Tier : Peachy Canoodle (5.9)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 15, 2015

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Comments: Good addition though some of the features are hollow, but that's kind of the tenor for Bolton Valley climbing.

The anchors should be refreshed with either two pairs of 3/8" (at minimum) quick links (preferably stainless) or ideally a stainless quicklink and rap ring combo.


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