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Rock Climbing Photo: Greenhorn - Solar Collector Wall - RRG, KY


Member Since: Apr 29, 2009
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Greg Kuchyt
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Total Points: 917
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 509 | Routes 48 | Areas 13 | Photos 30 | Page Improvements | Comments 92 | Posts 63 | Stars 166 | Ratings 97
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: VT : * Vermont Ice Climbing : Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 03W - ENT Gully Area : ENT Gully (WI2)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jan 4, 2016

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Comments: Yes, it is possible to rap from P1, with two ropes! There is a tree with a rap anchor.

Oui, vous pouvez descendre le premiere longeur avec deux cordes. Il y a un relais sur un arbre.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Bolton Quarry : Dwarf Wall : Anxious (5.11+)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Oct 8, 2015

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Comments: The natural line for this route trends up and right to the anchor on Dopey so don't let the lack of an proper anchor dissuade you from the enjoyable aesthetic technical climbing on this route. It's a sleeper quality climb once you work out the moves.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : North End : The Thorn (5.11a)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Oct 5, 2015

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Comments: Edit: Now having fully read your comment Kris...

If it was a spinner and a wedge bolt (which it looks like in the video) the hole probably wasn't cleaned enough and debris clogged the sleeve/cone interface. Maybe the bolt wasn't torqued properly either and the load/unload cycle of lowers/raps loosened up the expansion collar. Those would be typical causes of a spinner for such a new bolt. It would be interesting to know if the bolt ever tightened properly or was a spinner at installation... more >>


Location: NH : WM: Bartlett Area : White's Ledge : Finesse (5.10c)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: The climbing around the 3rd and 4th bolts is kind of unclear as to which way to go. You can either go left into October Wind or right on a right-facing flake. Either work and I'm not sure which is supposed to be the intended line. Otherwise I think this is a really worth while line. A light rack of cams from a green c3 to a .75 C4 was useful.


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Laurentians : Julien-Labedan : ... : Trident (5.10)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 17, 2015

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Comments: It will depend on the size of your hand!

If you can't get a hand or tight hand jam look at doing a ring lock (finger stack). Don't forget about jamming your feet!

A good resource for learning jamming techniques is The Crack Climber's Technique Manual by Kent Pease.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Lower Tier : Peachy Canoodle (5.9)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 15, 2015

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Comments: Good addition though some of the features are hollow, but that's kind of the tenor for Bolton Valley climbing.

The anchors should be refreshed with either two pairs of 3/8" (at minimum) quick links (preferably stainless) or ideally a stainless quicklink and rap ring combo.


Location: VT : Prospect Rock : Main Cliff : Charge the Farm : Buy the Farm (5.7)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: Can probably be done as a bolt-only route by those comfortable at the grade. The trad gear makes it very well protected for the fledgling leader.

The name came from the fact that on the first ascent the route took a circuitous route to the current finish with some dubious gear. It was joked that one shouldn't slip as the outcome might not be ideal. The proximity to Charge the Farm! led to jokes about "buying the farm" and a discussion about which use of the word "charge" was meant given the eco... more >>


Location: Fixed Hardware: Bolting & A... : Hardware : Climbing Bolt Types : Drop-in Bolts
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 1, 2015

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Comments: The penetrating oil and ball bearing trick worked for the one 12mm self-drill bolt I removed, though I ended up using a hydraulic punch driver to remove the sleeve. The cone is easily removed with a magnet (a scriber with a magnetic head with the scribing point removed works well; can be found at Home Depot). The rest of the self-drills on the route in question were 14mm self-drills and these have proven to be much more difficult.

A hydraulic punch driver may help some of the time too... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag : 2-Pitch Route (5.10d)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 31, 2015

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Comments: 4 bolts on this one if I remember correctly.

The anchor was replaced with glue-ins and is no longer a lower-off.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Upper Tier - Left End : Breaking and Entering (5.8)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: All protection bolts have been replaced. The anchor was also replaced to a simpler setup on the face in a section of rock that seems to be the most solid.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Snake (5.9)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 20, 2015

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Comments: Thoughts after doing the route

The approach listed here up left above the dirt ledge is actually broken into a roped-up pitch in the Bourdon book. It's reasonable either way depending on your comfort level; I'd say mid-5th up until the main 5.7 corner/dyke pitch. Go until the last tree ledge before the continuous corner.

All belays are not bolted, but no gear belays are needed as trees can be used. This caused me confusion early in the morning trying to find the bolted belay a... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Steel Feathers (5.10 R)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: The last bolt was replaced with a low visual impact glue-in bolt donated by the ASCA.


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Quebec City, Charlevoix, Po... : Lac Long : ... : Catwoman (5.10a)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: I found a #4 and #6 camalot to protect things well. The large jug at the bolt is loose and flexing, caveat emptor.


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Quebec City, Charlevoix, Po... : Lac Long : ... : AĆ©ro-Tango (5.9+)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: One of the best routes at the cliff. Pitch one is a mix of Indian Creek, old school wide-ness, and Gunks. Pitch 2 is straight out of the Gunks. A really special line. Double #2 and #3 can be helpful for Pitch 1, a #4 might make your life easier but isn't necessary.


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Quebec City, Charlevoix, Po... : Lac Long : ... : Fellation (5.10d)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: Light rack to #2 Camalot. Great route; tougher than I was expecting after the roof. The rock at the beginning is a little questionable in places but improves greatly once you gain the headwall. Save the #2 for the final corner, gear after that is not so great.


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Quebec City, Charlevoix, Po... : Lac Long : ... : Grosse Face (5.10c)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: The lower face is technical and really engaging. It's a lot of fun! Shorter climbers may find the third clip a intimidating; look for the positioning to get closer to the bolt.

This route changes character a few times and each new style is equally pleasurable. Bring a few longer draws.


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Quebec City, Charlevoix, Po... : Lac Long : ... : Bikini (5.9+)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: Not the best route for new leaders. This is not a simple clip-up sport route. There is a lot of distance between bolts 4 and 5 and the moves in between are not straight-forward. One additional bolt would have made this route a lot more accessible to all leaders.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Upper Tier - Left End : True Value (5.10a)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jun 9, 2015

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Comments: This anchor is no longer drop-in shuts or a lower-off. When the hardware was upgraded the anchor was equipped with stainless biners as a lower-off. These were quickly taken by some hopefully unknowing climber and were replaced with stainless links and rings donated by the ASCA.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag : Who's Your Daddy (5.12c)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jun 9, 2015

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Comments: Since this route's hardware was upgraded to glue-ins this is no longer currently a lower-off. The anchor is now stainless links and rings, donated by the ASCA. Many thanks to Greg Barnes and the ASCA for their donation.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag : Appalling Travesty (5.9+)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: May 7, 2015

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Comments: This route received a hardware replacement on May 7th 2015. In the process it was discovered that the second bolt was in hollow rock and it was moved up about a foot and a half into better rock. Bolt 1 was also moved a foot up to keep spacing similar. I don't believe this should change the difficulty of clipping either bolt but let me know if you think it does and we can try to improve things. It's also worth noting that the section of rock that forms the overlap between the first and second bol... more >>


Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Fill in the Blanks (5.10 PG13)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: This is a great line that I think doesn't see as much traffic as its neighbors.

The line feels a little squeezed in with its neighbor Razor Worm at the beginning and at the crack in the bulge. The variation out left to the arete at 2/3 height makes the line more independent and is pretty straight-forward, though slightly run-out considering the terrain. I ended up doing this because I missed a key edge to get me to the crack in the bulge.

Agreed that if your head is good this is a great line. ... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Upper Tier - Right End : Mal Bouche (5.12-)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: The "Happy Puppet" variation allows you to by pass the stiff crux at a moderate grade, though this is still guarded by the first pitch which is somewhat more approachable.


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Laurentians : Lac Boisseau : ... : L'incognito (5.11a)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 20, 2014

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Comments: This route unenjoyably and unnecessarily goes to the top of the cliff. You can't see from below but there is a fixed anchor at the top of the cliff set back a few meters. The climbing on the arete is very enjoyable but is very short-lived. The rest of the route is effectively a long hike for a short slide and is of a much less enjoyable nature compared to the majority of other routes at the cliff.

This route is tagged on the first bolt that warns the route is 5.11a R with ledge-fall potential.
... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Region : Pitchoff Chimney Cliff : Bogosity (Link-up) (5.8)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: There is some spice on P2 between the second and third bolt (of which one is not in the topo of the 1st edition of the Adirondack Rock book, so not sure if that was an erratum or if the bolt was added since then). Regardless, if you cased the moves to the third bolt, you're likely to hit the leaning sloping ledge. It's not 5.8, but it's also not cruiser easy either, hence my recommendation as a route for confident 5.8 leaders.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Region : Pitchoff Chimney Cliff : Wald-Calder Route (5.9 PG13)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 6, 2014

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Comments: I found that I never used above a .75 on this route. Doubles in C3s and finger sized stuff would have been more useful in my opinion (especially for building the P1 belay).

The route is worthwhile if you're comfortable with the start (there isn't gear until well established above the roof). The traverse on P1 (which is the book crux) is in my opinion well protected (potentially for both leader and follower). P2 is worthwhile and much cleaner than P1. If more traffic hit this climb and P1 cleane... more >>


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