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Rock Climbing Photo: Greenhorn - Solar Collector Wall - RRG, KY


Member Since: Apr 29, 2009
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
Contact Greg Kuchyt

Greg Kuchyt
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Point Rank: # 797
Total Points: 960
Last Year: 232
Last 30 Days: 22
11 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 530 | Routes 49 | Areas 13 | Photos 35 | Page Improvements | Comments 100 | Posts 67 | Stars 168 | Ratings 98
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Booty Wall Area : Full Circle (5.11a/b)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Given that once again the lower-off biners on this route were taken, it's now equipped with fixed pig-tails at the anchor.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Azure Mountain : Photo
By: Greg Kuchyt When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Yes, this is Fubby Dub and the ledge in the bottom right is the Dinner Table ledge.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Azure Mountain : Photo
By: Greg Kuchyt When: 6 days ago

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Comments: I don't know what the story with this rope is. I think it appeared during the summer of 2012 or 2011. My guess was that someone fixed all that looking to work a route there and then abandoned it. If I remember correctly. I found that quite annoying as I was working a route above the Dinner Table and would haul about 50# of gear in each time I went out to clean, etc. That was prior to me leaving the area in 2013.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Bolton Quarry : Cat's Ass Wall : Eye of the Cougar (5.12c)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: May 19, 2016

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Comments: The hardware on this route was replaced with glue-ins and there is now a proper two-bolt anchor. There is a 2-foot hollow flake in the final overlap that should be treated with caution.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : 82 Steep Wall : Little Red Hen (5.12d)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: May 14, 2016

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Comments: While attempting to replace the lower-off setup with pigtails today I discovered the right-hand bolt is a spinner. This means the whole bolt assembly spins in the hole and the mechanical wedge effect isn't functioning properly. It's not ideal but it's unlikely to be immediately dangerous. Best bet would be to not pull outward on this bolt and lower-off keeping the draws clipped. I will replace it in the next couple weeks.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : 82 Main Wall : Year of the Dog (5.10d)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: May 14, 2016

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Comments: D. Doucet and I replaced the left-hand hanger with a stainless ring hanger salvaged, cleaned, and re-passivated from the batch of bolts removed doing hardware replacement. The link that was there was plated steel and the rap ring was an aluminum rap ring. It worked, but what's there now is a bit more robust.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : 82 Steep Wall : Afro Samurai (5.11d)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: May 3, 2016

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Comments: D. Delay and I changed out the plated steel quicklinks and aluminum biners at the top with hardware from the Access Fund/American Alpine Club/local funded hardware replacement pool today. This route now has "pigtails" at the lower-off point. These may take some getting used to in order to thread quickly but they are more durable and won't degrade over time like the springs in a carabiner. One of the biners there already had a stiff gate that wasn't closing properly. You can always clip the bolt ... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag : Goin' Postal (5.11b)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Apr 16, 2016

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Comments: Hardware was replaced on April 16th with hardware from the pool acquired with American Alpine Club / Access Fund grant and local climber contributions. Thanks to those who donated and to the AAC & AF.


Location: VT : * Vermont Ice Climbing : Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 03W - ENT Gully Area : ENT Gully (WI2)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jan 4, 2016

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Comments: Yes, it is possible to rap from P1, with two ropes! There is a tree with a rap anchor.

Oui, vous pouvez descendre le premiere longeur avec deux cordes. Il y a un relais sur un arbre.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Bolton Quarry : Dwarf Wall : Anxious (5.11+)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Oct 8, 2015

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Comments: The natural line for this route trends up and right to the anchor on Dopey so don't let the lack of an proper anchor dissuade you from the enjoyable aesthetic technical climbing on this route. It's a sleeper quality climb once you work out the moves.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : North End : The Thorn (5.11a)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Oct 5, 2015

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Comments: Edit: Now having fully read your comment Kris...

If it was a spinner and a wedge bolt (which it looks like in the video) the hole probably wasn't cleaned enough and debris clogged the sleeve/cone interface. Maybe the bolt wasn't torqued properly either and the load/unload cycle of lowers/raps loosened up the expansion collar. Those would be typical causes of a spinner for such a new bolt. It would be interesting to know if the bolt ever tightened properly or was a spinner at installation... more >>


Location: NH : WM: Bartlett Area : White's Ledge : Finesse (5.10c)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: The climbing around the 3rd and 4th bolts is kind of unclear as to which way to go. You can either go left into October Wind or right on a right-facing flake. Either work and I'm not sure which is supposed to be the intended line. Otherwise I think this is a really worth while line. A light rack of cams from a green c3 to a .75 C4 was useful.


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Laurentians : Julien-Labedan : ... : Trident (5.10)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 17, 2015

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Comments: It will depend on the size of your hand!

If you can't get a hand or tight hand jam look at doing a ring lock (finger stack). Don't forget about jamming your feet!

A good resource for learning jamming techniques is The Crack Climber's Technique Manual by Kent Pease.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Lower Tier : Peachy Canoodle (5.9)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 15, 2015

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Comments: Good addition though some of the features are hollow, but that's kind of the tenor for Bolton Valley climbing.

The anchors should be refreshed with either two pairs of 3/8" (at minimum) quick links (preferably stainless) or ideally a stainless quicklink and rap ring combo.


Location: VT : Prospect Rock : Main Cliff : Charge the Farm : Buy the Farm (5.7)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: Can probably be done as a bolt-only route by those comfortable at the grade. The trad gear makes it very well protected for the fledgling leader.

The name came from the fact that on the first ascent the route took a circuitous route to the current finish with some dubious gear. It was joked that one shouldn't slip as the outcome might not be ideal. The proximity to Charge the Farm! led to jokes about "buying the farm" and a discussion about which use of the word "charge" was meant given the eco... more >>


Location: Fixed Hardware: Bolting & A... : Hardware : Climbing Bolt Types : Drop-in Bolts
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 1, 2015

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Comments: The penetrating oil and ball bearing trick worked for the one 12mm self-drill bolt I removed, though I ended up using a hydraulic punch driver to remove the sleeve. The cone is easily removed with a magnet (a scriber with a magnetic head with the scribing point removed works well; can be found at Home Depot). The rest of the self-drills on the route in question were 14mm self-drills and these have proven to be much more difficult.

A hydraulic punch driver may help some of the time too... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag : 2-Pitch Route (5.10d)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 31, 2015

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Comments: 4 bolts on this one if I remember correctly.

The anchor was replaced with glue-ins and is no longer a lower-off.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Upper Tier - Left End : Breaking and Entering (5.8)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: All protection bolts have been replaced. The anchor was also replaced to a simpler setup on the face in a section of rock that seems to be the most solid.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Snake (5.9)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 20, 2015

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Comments: Thoughts after doing the route

The approach listed here up left above the dirt ledge is actually broken into a roped-up pitch in the Bourdon book. It's reasonable either way depending on your comfort level; I'd say mid-5th up until the main 5.7 corner/dyke pitch. Go until the last tree ledge before the continuous corner.

All belays are not bolted, but no gear belays are needed as trees can be used. This caused me confusion early in the morning trying to find the bolted belay a... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Steel Feathers (5.10 R)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: The last bolt was replaced with a low visual impact glue-in bolt donated by the ASCA.


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Quebec City, Charlevoix, Po... : Lac Long : ... : Catwoman (5.10a)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: I found a #4 and #6 camalot to protect things well. The large jug at the bolt is loose and flexing, caveat emptor.


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Quebec City, Charlevoix, Po... : Lac Long : ... : AĆ©ro-Tango (5.9+)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: One of the best routes at the cliff. Pitch one is a mix of Indian Creek, old school wide-ness, and Gunks. Pitch 2 is straight out of the Gunks. A really special line. Double #2 and #3 can be helpful for Pitch 1, a #4 might make your life easier but isn't necessary.


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Quebec City, Charlevoix, Po... : Lac Long : ... : Fellation (5.10d)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: Light rack to #2 Camalot. Great route; tougher than I was expecting after the roof. The rock at the beginning is a little questionable in places but improves greatly once you gain the headwall. Save the #2 for the final corner, gear after that is not so great.


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Quebec City, Charlevoix, Po... : Lac Long : ... : Grosse Face (5.10c)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: The lower face is technical and really engaging. It's a lot of fun! Shorter climbers may find the third clip a intimidating; look for the positioning to get closer to the bolt.

This route changes character a few times and each new style is equally pleasurable. Bring a few longer draws.


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Quebec City, Charlevoix, Po... : Lac Long : ... : Bikini (5.9+)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: Not the best route for new leaders. This is not a simple clip-up sport route. There is a lot of distance between bolts 4 and 5 and the moves in between are not straight-forward. One additional bolt would have made this route a lot more accessible to all leaders.


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