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Rock Climbing Photo: Greenhorn - Solar Collector Wall - RRG, KY


Member Since: Apr 29, 2009
Last Visit: 20 mins ago
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Greg Kuchyt
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Total Points: 988
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Last 30 Days: 7
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 589 | Routes 49 | Areas 13 | Photos 37 | Page Improvements | Comments 118 | Posts 71 | Stars 186 | Ratings 115
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Upper Tier - Right End : Hippie With a Hand Grenade (5.11c/d)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: 3 days ago

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Comments: What happened at the first bolt?


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Lower Tier : Bilateral symmetry (5.11a/b PG13)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 17, 2016

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Comments: Great route that deserves more attention.

Two finger size pieces are good for the top, as the placement is pretty critical.

A couple cams in the 1-1.5" range provide somewhat dubious protection gaining the left-facing corner.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : 82 Steep Wall : Crusty By Nature (5.10d)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 14, 2016

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Comments: Perhaps a better way to use this as a warm-up is to link into Afro Samurai at the bulge. It's an easy traverse across and gives you some steep jugs to finish on which rounds out the thinner section below. A double shoulder sling is useful to clip the bolt on Crusty long to protect the traverse over.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Lower Tier : Fresh Meat (5.10b)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 14, 2016

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Comments: Just for clarity, Zak's comment about not an easy TR is prior to a shared anchor being installed with Paradox. The anchor sits between the two lines and facilitates easy top-roping if you're able to get to the top of either line.

This anchor was converted to a pig-tail lower-off a couple months ago. Please help the hardware last as long as possible and don't top-rope directly through the pig-tail. Setup your own top-rope anchor off the... more >>


Location: VT : Mt Mansfield : Cantilever Rock : Walk the Plank (5.9)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments: So this isn't an FA then? If not, who is the FA team and date?


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Easy Gully Buttress : The Deep End (5.11-)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: My guess, just checked to see if it fit (since visibly the standard 9/16" nut is a different outer diameter than the standard 17mm nut) and then it cross-threaded and got stuck. I say this because I basically did the exact same thing in my apartment. If you do the math, the thread pattern for 3/8-16 is like a few thousands of an inch off from 10mm x 1.5mm or something like that. So in this case it starts to thread initially, but then cross-threads.


Location: VT : Smugglers Notch : Easy Gully Buttress : The Deep End (5.11-)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 5, 2016

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Comments: Agreed with Derek, the first pitch is burly without much character. I think it should be possible to start as for Snowflake and just traverse across the P1 belay ledge to the the anchor above P1 of The Deep End. The step up to the base of Hummingbird Crack is a little funky so belaying across might be the best plan there.

So the questionable bolt is like the 9th bolt on P2. After looking at it, what I see is that someone tried to help out and put a new nut on it. Thing is, Fixe is a Spanish com... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : 82 Main Wall : Block Party (5.10a)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 21, 2016

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Comments: The bolt that Kameron mentions was evaluated and replaced. I think someone had tightened it down in the interim because when we looked at it this morning it was properly tightened but the hanger was loose. This is due to the fact that the bolt is so far left that it experiences a anti-clockwise force due to the rope pull which will lead to the bolt loosening over time. That's likely what Kameron saw based upon what he described when I contacted him via PM. D. Doucet and I eva... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Talking Crack (5.6)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 19, 2016

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Comments: You can get by with just a 3 on this.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Tea in the Sahara (5.10b)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 19, 2016

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Comments: After a final evaluation I removed the last bolt entirely but re-positioned the 4th bolt a few meters lower. I discovered that the "bomber" red C3/blue alien placement mid-way between the 3rd bolt and the crux roof was formed by two large hollow blocks. Given that the holds in this section are a lot of hollow flakes and the fact that the corner to the left bulges out below, I compromised on the side of fall protection. The fourth bolt is now a couple meters below wh... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : What's up, doc? (5.9 R)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: I think this is actually the route Say Goodnight Dick. What's Up Doc? is to the left of the arete.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Diedre (5.8)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: Before climbing this route I thought the comments regarding the soft ratings were a bit outlandish, but having done the route I feel like each pitch is one to two number grades off.

Despite the Top 100 status, my personal opinion is if you can confidently climb 5.9 then avoid the crowds, climb Snake, and don't worry about missing Diedre. I thought Snake was a significantly better route (minus the start and finish) that gave you similar climbing but with each pitch having a d... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Bone Mountain : The Main Cliff : A. Left End : Jolly Roger (5.10b/c)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: The most reputable of the rolled aluminum rings are rated at 14kN MBS, hopefully this single one is from a reputable manufacturer. Best practice would be to add another one or some other backup on that anchor. Steel rings are stronger and can be used individually but these alu rings should be placed in pairs.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Catch Me Quick(er) (5.10b)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: This is likely a route best for a confident 5.10 leader. I used a half dozen pieces from fingers up to a #3.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Shannon Falls : Jump to Light Speed (5.10c)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 30, 2016

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Comments: Save a .5 BD sized piece for the end of the crack, the lack of a bolt assumes you have good gear at the end of the crack (which is reasonable if you actually have that size at that point).


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Ridge Runner (5.8)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 26, 2016

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Comments: The Bourdon guide's gear beta for this is not really accurate. You only need some RPs and a couple finger/tips sized cams (doubled-up, because why not?) for the obvious crack before the first bolt. The protection is reasonable for a confident 5.9 climber and I felt the bolt placements were pretty right on. If you're not a strong friction climber you'll likely wish there was closer pro at the top and a fall would likely be unpleasant.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Tea in the Sahara (5.10b)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: I feel like this route and Sticks and Stones are akin to Discombobulated and Legacy in the New River Gorge. Sticks is the classic like Legacy and Tea is the ugly-duckling that is either loved or hated. In both cases I guess I see the diamond in the rough and I think Tea is a worthwhile route. A few tips and finger sized cams and a number 1 C4 are all you need for gear.

I replaced the hardware on this last year after talking with Mark about how to handle the litany of non-FA party bolts added. F... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Hailstorm (5.10a R)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: The crux is protected by an acceptable small wire and cam (TCUs and C3s helpful) that can be equalized. Use a screamer if you really want to feel warm and soft inside. Small gear takes care and patience in the best of times. Even some of the larger gear on this route takes patience and skill to set in the best manner. With the requisite bag of skills, it's PG.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : 82 Main Wall : The Politics of Dancing (5.10a PG13)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jun 3, 2016

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Comments: The anchor is about 20 ft down and left of the Chimp Crimp anchor in an alcove/left-facing corner.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Booty Wall Area : Full Circle (5.11a/b)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: May 25, 2016

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Comments: Given that once again the lower-off biners on this route were taken, it's now equipped with fixed pig-tails at the anchor.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Azure Mountain : Photo
By: Greg Kuchyt When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: Yes, this is Fubby Dub and the ledge in the bottom right is the Dinner Table ledge.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Northern Region : Azure Mountain : Photo
By: Greg Kuchyt When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: I don't know what the story with this rope is. I think it appeared during the summer of 2012 or 2011. My guess was that someone fixed all that looking to work a route there and then abandoned it. If I remember correctly. I found that quite annoying as I was working a route above the Dinner Table and would haul about 50# of gear in each time I went out to clean, etc. That was prior to me leaving the area in 2013.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Bolton Quarry : Cat's Ass Wall : Eye of the Cougar (5.12c)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: May 19, 2016

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Comments: The hardware on this route was replaced with glue-ins and there is now a proper two-bolt anchor. There is a 2-foot hollow flake in the final overlap that should be treated with caution.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : 82 Main Wall : Year of the Dog (5.10d)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: May 14, 2016

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Comments: D. Doucet and I replaced the left-hand hanger with a stainless ring hanger salvaged, cleaned, and re-passivated from the batch of bolts removed doing hardware replacement. The link that was there was plated steel and the rap ring was an aluminum rap ring. It worked, but what's there now is a bit more robust.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : 82 Steep Wall : Afro Samurai (5.11d)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: May 3, 2016

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Comments: D. Delay and I changed out the plated steel quicklinks and aluminum biners at the top with hardware from the Access Fund/American Alpine Club/local funded hardware replacement pool today. This route now has "pigtails" at the lower-off point. These may take some getting used to in order to thread quickly but they are more durable and won't degrade over time like the springs in a carabiner. One of the biners there already had a stiff gate that wasn't closing properly. You can always clip the bolt ... more >>


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