Contributed Comments |
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall
By: Greg Howland When: Mar 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Decent from the wall has three raps. Careful not to miss the 3rd rap station it will be on the left. The second is a short one."
+1
Second rap heads towards the healthy tree out at the edge of a ledge and is on the rappeller's/climber's right. Keep right of the brush aiming for the tree and bolts marking the final rap will be obvious when even with the tree.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : New Diversions
By: Greg Howland When: Oct 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anybody know what the two bolted lines to the right of Chicken Pie are? Thanks in advance
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Slab City : ... : Bottom Feeder (5.11b)
By: Greg Howland When: Mar 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Nathan. Compared to the popular 10d/11a, Tangerine Dream, the crux move on this route is miles harder.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : The Prow (5.8 C2-3)
By: Greg Howland When: Jul 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route the second week of June. There was a blown head on P5 between two of the bolts in the bolt ladder. Not many options to pass it other than a new head or a beak. There is also a ton of fixed gear on this route like hammered stoppers, half broken pins, etc. Someone should think of cleaning the route.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : Double Cross (5.7+)
By: Greg Howland When: Apr 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just climbed this again today. Due to the grade and the popularity of the route, this climb brings in a fair amount of entry level trad climbers. Other than that I don't really understand why this route has become so controversial. To be fair, it is 12' or so before you can get any gear. This is not the crux of the climb however. The couple of moves through that section seemed 5.4 or 5.5. After that there is an awesome #3 Camalot. Let's be serious. It is a trad climb, not a sport climb. ... more >>
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Cle... (5.8 C1)
By: Greg Howland When: Mar 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just got off Moonlight last week. On the route 3/17-18/2011. Gear list above seems a bit excessive. We used:
2x #1 Metolius
4x #2 Metolius
4x #3 Metolius
3x .5 Black Diamond
2x .75-2 Black Diamond
1 Set of BD Stoppers Doubled from 8-11
1 Set DMM Alloy Offsets
0/1-2/3 Offset Metolius (Wish we also had 3/4 though)
Used a Tricam and Red Ball Nut on P2 but could have easily gone without them
No need for a hook
Partner linked P8 and P9. He said rope drag was extremely bad because ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Supremacy Rock : Zig-zagging Jews (5.4)
By: Greg Howland When: Sep 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pro is really not hard to find at all and doesn't require any creativity. On the crux traverse, there is good gear at your feet. After the traverse, the rest of the climb has great pro.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Three Buffoons
By: Greg Howland When: Aug 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I lost a BD ATC-Guide two weeks ago or so up in Boulder Canyon. I think I lost it around the Dome/Elephant Butresses area (but could be somewhere else). I'm just a poor college kid with no money and now no belay device. If you found it and returned it, I would be extremely grateful and would be more than happy to reward you with some beer.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Ament's Rock
By: Greg Howland When: Aug 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I lost a BD ATC-Guide two weeks ago or so up in Boulder Canyon. I think I lost it around the Dome/Elephant Butresses area (but could be somewhere else). I'm just a poor college kid with no money and now no belay device. If you found it and returned it, I would be extremely grateful and would be more than happy to reward you with some beer.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Rock Island I
By: Greg Howland When: Aug 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I lost a BD ATC-Guide two weeks ago or so up in Boulder Canyon. I think I lost it around the Dome/Elephant Butresses area (but could be somewhere else). I'm just a poor college kid with no money and now no belay device. If you found it and returned it, I would be extremely grateful and would be more than happy to reward you with some beer.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Frogman Pinnacle
By: Greg Howland When: Aug 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I lost a BD ATC-Guide two weeks ago or so up in Boulder Canyon. I think I lost it around the Dome/Elephant Butresses area (but could be somewhere else). I'm just a poor college kid with no money and now no belay device. If you found it and returned it, I would be extremely grateful and would be more than happy to reward you with some beer.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon
By: Greg Howland When: Aug 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I lost a BD ATC-Guide two weeks ago or so up in Boulder Canyon. I think I lost it around the Dome/Elephant Butresses area (but could be somewhere else). I'm just a poor college kid with no money and now no belay device. If you found it and returned it, I would be extremely grateful and would be more than happy to reward you with some beer.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: Greg Howland When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Could someone tell me about the 5.8 variation on P2. Is it the OW that traverses roughly 25ft beneath the next belay? I think I may have gotten off route a little because this seemed to be closer to a 5.8. If so does the actual route turn to face climbing during this section? thanks
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Central Pinnacles : Thunderbird Wall
By: Greg Howland When: May 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was wondering if someone could tell me the name and grade of the route to the right of Nervous Twitch? I believe it is still considered Thunderbird Wall. It is across the hallway from Black Powder and Smokin the Rock which are on the Gunsmoke wall.
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