Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : Steamboat Springs : South of Town : Sarvis Creek Domes
By: Greg D When: Sep 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: These areas are infested with poison ivy, rattlesnakes and mountain lions. Use caution!
|
Location: CO : Steamboat Springs : North of Town : Box Canyon : Steel Nuts (5.8)
By: Greg D When: Sep 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry to hear about the bolts. This was a great mixed route. The route's beginning has had a few bolts for many years where other protection didn't exist. But, the upper section of this route did accept reasonable natural protection. The new bolts certainly decrease this nice line's difficulty. Perhaps someone should chip a few holds to further decrease its difficulty. Finding adequete protection is part of a route's challenge. Placing bolts negates this.
Remember: "A person placing ... more >>
|
Location: CO : Steamboat Springs
By: Greg D When: Sep 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: These areas are infested with poison ivy, rattlesnakes and mountain lions. Use caution!
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Side aka West Chimney (5.7)
By: Greg D When: Jun 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this Sat. Definitely a decent route, great exposure, and quality rock except for the traverse. There is a good fixed pin on the traverse if you go far enough. At least twice I was tempted to go straight up to the ledge, but my gear was iffy and so was the rock, so I continued traversing and found a good pin.
P2 was more exciting as we did not follow the route description very well. After the OW we continued straight up (no traverse) following the crack system. It steepens, then you... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Alice in Bucketland (5.8+ R)
By: Greg D When: Apr 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: No bees as of 4/28/08. Only one pin at first belay. Other gear options definitely exist for the anchor. Good natural anchor is not a problem. Me and my partner (about 400lbs +) enjoyed a hanging belay off of the pin, a #0.5 Camalot (a #0.75 Camalot may work as well) and a finger size nut, each piece in a separate rock feature, nicely equalized. Excellent route!
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Slab Route (5.7)
By: Greg D When: Apr 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is know as Slab Route (5.7) in Fred Knapps book Classic Desert Climbs.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Bastardized Old Route (5.9-)
By: Greg D When: Apr 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This may be a route called Deathtrap 5.8 done many years ago. Next time I'm there I'll try to confirm but you may be able to yourself. edit: not deathtrap.
|
Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo... : 1000' of Fun (5.6)
By: Greg D When: Apr 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Sqwirll, That's sounds pretty simple. Any suggestions of other worthy routes in the area?
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Isolated Climbs : The Kind (5.10a)
By: Greg D When: Apr 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We hiked to this route on a rest day. I'm sure we found it as well as Archaic Revival. But, I'm confused by the photo. Both routes are right facing dihedrals. Yet, your photo shows a left facing dihedral. Did the photo get inverted somehow?
If there is water in the creek just plan on getting wet and stay in the creek for the entire approach as we did. It is a much better option than bushwhacking.
Sad to see so much broken glass at the route.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor
By: Greg D When: Apr 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here is a guide to put the routes in order from left to right. (updated 11/06/08)
Starting from the lower left: Pandemic 10+, Kura Burnan 12, Rattler 11.
Up the hill approx 50 feet/30 feet down and left from slabs: Unkown 8 (left slanting finger crack).
At the left side of slabs: 5.6 Corner, 10TR, Parlor Game 9 (3 bolts). Unkown 7 (approx 5 bolts).
Right of gully: Black Slab 6 (Bolts - 2 different starts), Slab 7 (bolts), Crack 3 8 TR, Crack 2 8R or TR, Crack 1 (aka Wolverine) 8, Ho... more >>
|
Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo... : 1000' of Fun (5.6)
By: Greg D When: Mar 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Alright, I stand corrected on the directions. Perhaps the "I-70" entrance does exist and we were just directionaly challenged that day. The only directions we had printed from this page states "from the I-70 entrance" did not give us directions to the "entrance". Since we did not have specifics of where this entrance was all other directions were useless to us. Could someone give specific direction to this entrance from lets say Green River? Does one take an actual I-70 exit or just pull off ... more >>
|
Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo... : 1000' of Fun (5.6)
By: Greg D When: Mar 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The directions to this route are no longer accurate as the "entrance" from I-70 no longer exists. You must drive the highway that heads south from I-70 (i believe it is the next exit west of Green River) for appox 6 miles, then turn right on to a dirt road. Sorry I can't be more specific but the canyon is visible from the highway. A local map showing Three Finger Canyon will be useful.
Found the route to be ok. Lots of 5.0 climbing and a short section of 5.6. My dog did the first pitch on-... more >>
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : 5.6 Corner (5.6)
By: Greg D When: Mar 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Location is approximately 75 feet left of crack 3 and as you might guess, it's in the corner.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Potash Bong Hit (5.9)
By: Greg D When: Mar 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A new variation exist, put up in 07. After climbing the hand crack, head out left past some bolts to anchors. See description of Good, The Bad and the Potash 11b/c.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street North : King's Hand : King's Hand Left (5.9 R)
By: Greg D When: Mar 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did King's Hand Right 3/31/06.. This is the same as the Left except for the second and third pitch. Definitely runout at 8 or easier, sandy and a bit heady. I did find the pin on the first pitch. It is about 60 feet up roughly in the middle of the formation just after what I would call the second bulge. There were some more gear placements after that, but still a bit runout. We did the 10a second pitch. The crux is well protected with a pin and I added a bomber nut just above it. The only j... more >>
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street North : King's Hand
By: Greg D When: Mar 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did King's Hand Right 3/31/06. Definitely runout, sanding and heady. I did find the pin on the first pitch. It is about 60 feet up roughly in the middle of the formation just after what I would call the second bulge. The were some more gear placements after that, but still a bit runout. We did the 10a second pitch. The crux is well protected with a pin and I added a bomber nut just above it. The only jug on the pitch is a bit smaller now. It came off in my partner's hand and is probably on Wa... more >>
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Big Sky Mud Flaps (5.10d)
By: Greg D When: Feb 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbing any sandstone immediately following a rain storm is not a good idea as the rock is very soft at this time and the route may be changed forever.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Jug Roof (5.10a)
By: Greg D When: Feb 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not a bad route. Rarely climbed. A bit sandy but worth doing, especially when the area is busy.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Bastardized Old Route (5.9-)
By: Greg D When: Feb 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: this route has been climbed before. Hopefully, new hardware was absolutely necessary. I will get back to you with the details on this one.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Wolverine (5.8)
By: Greg D When: Feb 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is Wolverine. There are two more pitches to this route at 5.11.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Photo
By: Greg D When: Feb 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climber is on Steel Your Face or possible Puppy Love.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Photo
By: Greg D When: Feb 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The left side of the photo is El Cracko Diablo. El Face o Diablo is in the middle.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Static Cling (5.11a/b)
By: Greg D When: Feb 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a quality climb and can be climbed in the rain (see photo) as well as Potash Bong Hit(5.9) which starts just 15 feet left and shares the same achors as Static Cling. Potash Bong Hit is worth doing and protects fairly well even though some guide books call it a top rope. See Potash Bong Hit on this website for more details.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Batline Dome : Batline (5.9)
By: Greg D When: Feb 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice plagerism Nancy. Your description reads exactly as Stuart Green's Rock Climbing Arizona guide book. The only problem is it is not accurate. Yes, achors after 70 feet. Then, not quite jugs right away. A few more moves similar to the grade of the climb, then, easier climbing for another 60 feet. Two single rope or one double rope rappel to get off. The upper part is worth doing.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Knee Grinder (5.9+ R)
By: Greg D When: Jan 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: John Varco did the first ascent in roughly 1995. He placed the bolt on lead and by hand. I had the "pleasure" of being the third one up it on toprope as a brand new climber, maybe third time climbing ever. Crapped my pants. Did it again last fall. Getting inside is not an option for bigger folk. I'm just under 2 bills @ 5' 11" and had to stay outside.
A small/medium Big Bro can be used to protect the upper section. The crack is a bit too wide for a #6 Camalot.
|
RSS Feed
