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Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W. <br />


Member Since: Apr 5, 2006
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 685
Total Points: 923
Last Year: 79
Last 30 Days: 14
70 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Greg D been climbing?










Contributions


All 2429 | Routes 12 | Areas 1 | Photos 133 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 120 | Posts 1778 | Stars 301 | Ratings 83
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Cave Pitch (5.8)
By: Greg D When: Dec 31, 2008

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Comments: A #4 Friend is not necessary. Not even sure where one would place it. I placed a #0.5 Camalot. Then a good green or purple C3 (blue or black Alien) and a small nut, then back cleaned the 0.5. Then pulled the roof.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Napster (5.10c)
By: Greg D When: Dec 10, 2008

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Comments: Fun, steep, short climb. 9+ if it were in Eldo.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Sunshine Wall : Sunshine Wall Routes : ... : Photo
By: Greg D When: Dec 8, 2008

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Comments: Yep, I added the hardware in 07 seen here to equalize.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Sunshine Wall : Photo
By: Greg D When: Dec 8, 2008

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Comments: Great photo. I've seen this one from a distance. Its a petroglyph though. Pictographs use some kind of "paint'.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Sunshine Wall : Sunshine Wall Routes : ... : Photo
By: Greg D When: Dec 8, 2008

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Comments: I placed the cord seen in the photo. Fall of 07. Replaced a bunch of old crap. Not the best placed bolts imo because when you rap you are basically pulling outward on the bolts. That is why I wanted everything well equalized which I did. If in doubt, one can walk (with a belay perhaps) 30 feet left to the anchors on Melanoma Shuffle seen here:

mountainproject.com/v/utah/moa...
. The anchors on that route are much better imo.

I don't believe we are seeing b... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Photo
By: Greg D When: Dec 8, 2008

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Comments: There are a few routes up and left of 5.6 corner. The rock looks so bad I've never gone up there and have never seen anyone else. Wolverine is a 3 pitch 11 which starts with "crack 1".

About 75 yards down and left of 5.6 corner lies 3 multipitch climbs which are described on this site. Rattler, Kura Buran and Pandemic.


Location: CO : Oil and Gas in Moab
By: Greg D When: Dec 5, 2008

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Comments: The letters and protests are great. Keep up the good work!

The most powerful forces at work are economics. To state what we all already know: Oil and gas drilling is a function of profitability. Profitability is a function of price. Price is a function of supply and demand.

We must look at our own use of these commodoties. I spent several hours yesterday sealing doors and window to prevent heat loss. Last year we installed a programable thermostat. It turns the heat down to 55 when w... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Freezer Burn (5.10)
By: Greg D When: Nov 13, 2008

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Comments: Climbed this route on Sunday. The last 15 feet of the route make it worth while. The gear list above baffled me. I like to "sew it up" and I didn't place anything larger than a 1 camelot. A single set of cams and some nuts will do just fine.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Freezer Burn (5.10)
By: Greg D When: Nov 7, 2008

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Comments: Eric, your description of RP City is incorrect as is Rock Climbing Utah. RP City and Vanilla Cream have the same start. For RP City move up and left to a very thin seem with a two bolt anchor.

The route you mention "15 feet right at the end of the ledge" is a different route than RP City. ( A good route though) Once you climb the RP City I describe here you will know where the name came from.

here's how it looks

hot karl sunday... 20 feet right is rp city and vanilla cream... 20 feet ri... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Vanilla Cream (5.10+)
By: Greg D When: Oct 29, 2008

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Comments: This is the same start as RP City. For RP City, climb the easy blocky crack (same for Vanilla Cream), then move out left and into the thin seem to a 2 bolt anchor. See route description for RP City.

Would be nice to see people use camoflouged bolts these days.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Freezer Burn (5.10)
By: Greg D When: Oct 29, 2008

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Comments: Vanilla Cream and RP City have the same start. Vanilla Cream is a left facing corner that has had some bolts on it for years but was incomplete. RP City is the very thin seem left of this corner. Also, RP City is the first route right of Hot Carl Sunday. RP City is incorrectly labeled in some guide books such as Rock Climbing Utah which puts it 20 feet right of Vanilla Cream/RP City. That is another route which is quite good (10a) which starts after walking 30 feet right on a ledge to a ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : 3AM Crack (5.10)
By: Greg D When: Oct 8, 2008

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Comments: Check your rope length (as always). Someone got dropped on Sunday while being lowered cause the rope shot through the belayers hand before the climber reached the ground. He fell 15 or 20 feet. I hope he is recovering ok. Does anyone know his status?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Echo Pinnacle : Free Window Route (5.10+)
By: Greg D When: Oct 8, 2008

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Comments: Great route. I highly recommend this route for the adventurous folk. Somewhat remote, very scenic, not well traveled, varied climbing with one of the most unique pitches I have ever climbed... "well" protected with mostly manky old bolts and pins. Rap 1 = 130 feet, rap 2 = 90 feet.


Location: CO : Steamboat Springs : North of Town : Box Canyon : Steel Nuts (5.8)
By: Greg D When: Sep 30, 2008

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Comments: No Nuts. I like it. Right on Dustin.


Location: CO : Steamboat Springs : South of Town : Sarvis Creek Domes
By: Greg D When: Sep 21, 2008

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Comments: These areas are infested with poison ivy, rattlesnakes and mountain lions. Use caution!


Location: CO : Steamboat Springs : North of Town : Box Canyon : Steel Nuts (5.8)
By: Greg D When: Sep 21, 2008

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Comments: Sorry to hear about the bolts. This was a great mixed route. The route's beginning has had a few bolts for many years where other protection didn't exist. But, the upper section of this route did accept reasonable natural protection. The new bolts certainly decrease this nice line's difficulty. Perhaps someone should chip a few holds to further decrease its difficulty. Finding adequete protection is part of a route's challenge. Placing bolts negates this.

Remember: "A person placing ... more >>


Location: CO : Steamboat Springs
By: Greg D When: Sep 21, 2008

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Comments: These areas are infested with poison ivy, rattlesnakes and mountain lions. Use caution!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Side aka West Chimney (5.7)
By: Greg D When: Jun 2, 2008

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Comments: Climbed this Sat. Definitely a decent route, great exposure, and quality rock except for the traverse. There is a good fixed pin on the traverse if you go far enough. At least twice I was tempted to go straight up to the ledge, but my gear was iffy and so was the rock, so I continued traversing and found a good pin.

P2 was more exciting as we did not follow the route description very well. After the OW we continued straight up (no traverse) following the crack system. It steepens, then you... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Alice in Bucketland (5.8+ R)
By: Greg D When: Apr 30, 2008

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Comments: No bees as of 4/28/08. Only one pin at first belay. Other gear options definitely exist for the anchor. Good natural anchor is not a problem. Me and my partner (about 400lbs +) enjoyed a hanging belay off of the pin, a #0.5 Camalot (a #0.75 Camalot may work as well) and a finger size nut, each piece in a separate rock feature, nicely equalized. Excellent route!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Slab Route (5.7)
By: Greg D When: Apr 23, 2008

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Comments: This route is know as Slab Route (5.7) in Fred Knapps book Classic Desert Climbs.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Bastardized Old Route (5.9-)
By: Greg D When: Apr 16, 2008

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Comments: This may be a route called Deathtrap 5.8 done many years ago. Next time I'm there I'll try to confirm but you may be able to yourself. edit: not deathtrap.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo... : 1000' of Fun (5.6)
By: Greg D When: Apr 11, 2008

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Comments: Thanks Sqwirll, That's sounds pretty simple. Any suggestions of other worthy routes in the area?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Isolated Climbs : The Kind (5.10a)
By: Greg D When: Apr 7, 2008

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Comments: We hiked to this route on a rest day. I'm sure we found it as well as Archaic Revival. But, I'm confused by the photo. Both routes are right facing dihedrals. Yet, your photo shows a left facing dihedral. Did the photo get inverted somehow?

If there is water in the creek just plan on getting wet and stay in the creek for the entire approach as we did. It is a much better option than bushwhacking.

Sad to see so much broken glass at the route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor
By: Greg D When: Apr 7, 2008

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Comments: Here is a guide to put the routes in order from left to right. (updated 11/06/08)

Starting from the lower left: Pandemic 10+, Kura Burnan 12, Rattler 11.

Up the hill approx 50 feet/30 feet down and left from slabs: Unkown 8 (left slanting finger crack).

At the left side of slabs: 5.6 Corner, 10TR, Parlor Game 9 (3 bolts). Unkown 7 (approx 5 bolts).

Right of gully: Black Slab 6 (Bolts - 2 different starts), Slab 7 (bolts), Crack 3 8 TR, Crack 2 8R or TR, Crack 1 (aka Wolverine) 8, Ho... more >>


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : O Crags (Three Finger Canyo... : 1000' of Fun (5.6)
By: Greg D When: Mar 31, 2008

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Comments: Alright, I stand corrected on the directions. Perhaps the "I-70" entrance does exist and we were just directionaly challenged that day. The only directions we had printed from this page states "from the I-70 entrance" did not give us directions to the "entrance". Since we did not have specifics of where this entrance was all other directions were useless to us. Could someone give specific direction to this entrance from lets say Green River? Does one take an actual I-70 exit or just pull off ... more >>


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