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Location: CO : Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma : The Alpenglow Wall : Splittsville? (5.9+ R)
By: Greg D When: May 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found the location of the second bolt to be quite poor. As it is, one must enter into some of the crux moves before reaching the bolt. With that fin of rock in the landing zone one could easily get seriously hurt trying to make that clip.
It should be moved down about 15 inches. I wouldn't add any bolts though. Just relocate the second. There is a good #0.75 Camalot before the third bolt.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Knight's Move (5.7)
By: Greg D When: Apr 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Overall, a fun route and worth doing. Much better than it looks. Yes, some loose rock here and there that is fairly obvious. But, fun climbing with an interesting crux. 170' to the big tree. Drag was not bad. Two easy raps down the fall line.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8)
By: Greg D When: Sep 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm with Sam. Leave the bolt alone. The wide protects well with a big piece. I placed an old number 4 and clipped the bolt for nostalgia. Let's keep a little adventure out there.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor
By: Greg D When: Jun 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some recent updates were in order. So, Scott H's post may not apply any longer.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Pork Soda (5.10a PG13)
By: Greg D When: May 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has been incorrectly listed in some guide books as RP City and I called it "not rp city" in my topo because the name was unknown at the time.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Rain (5.10- PG13)
By: Greg D When: May 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun route. I'm not sure why it has a pg13. It has bomber bolts closely spaced the whole way except one section where the climbing is quite easy relative to the rest of the route, maybe 5.6.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Linda's Way (5.10+)
By: Greg D When: May 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has a plaque under it calling it Linda's Way 5.9. It appears that the bolter placed the highest bolt on this route right in the middle of the final 20 feet of Pork Soda which I came upon while climbing Pork Soda which I have climbed many times several years ago as well as today. The new line leads right to the existing anchor of Pork Soda which is fine but to place a bolt right in the middle of a long time existing route is unacceptable. Please remove it and reinstall it out of reach ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Highway of Diamonds (5.9+)
By: Greg D When: Mar 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Had to bail today for various reasons. Lots of booty up there. Help me out if you can.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Quarry : River Dance (5.8)
By: Greg D When: Mar 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was my first time at Thunder Ridge, and this was my first route there. I felt confused part way up the route. The bolt placements seemed strange and out of character for South Platte and too close to natural pro. At one point, I was well above a bolt before I even saw it. Keep in mind, I just had knee surgery and was looking for moderate, fairly well-protected routes.
Then I shouted to my partner, "This route is weird. Much of it could be protected with gear."
Later, we climbed t... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Static Cling (5.11a/b) : Photo
By: Greg D When: Aug 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah. No. It does not get rained on... ever. But, I appreciate the concern. Look at the picture. It has been raining hard enough to flood the belay. Yet, the route is bone dry.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Left Out (5.9- R)
By: Greg D When: Jun 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really good route. Would be 3 stars if not for the small amount of loose rock. Great exposure. The moves are a bit deceptive in the beginning. A #3 Camalot was very nice to place in a triangular slot right off the ground during the first few juggy moves. A comparable sized hex may be even better.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Half Pipe (5.11-)
By: Greg D When: May 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for adding this route. It sees a lot of traffic though.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Photo
By: Greg D When: Apr 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: nice Jeff, very nice.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : The Balance (5.11a/b)
By: Greg D When: Apr 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is good gear down and right of the first bolt although not obvious once you do the easy scrambling trying to reach the first bolt. I would agree the first bolt is not well placed. The movement on this route is good once you get into it, although it is a bit licheny since it appears to get little traffic. I placed cams from tips to number 1 Camalot and a few nuts to supplement the bolts. Worth doing if in the area and when it cleans up a bit more.
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Location: Colorado & Rocky Mountain R... : deep water soloing in color... : Post : Photo
By: Greg D When: Jan 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lake Powell
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Location: NIVEK : The Des. : Photo
By: Greg D When: Dec 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The only thing missing from this sport rappelling photo is a pbr and a cigarette.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : ... : Photo
By: Greg D When: Dec 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why do you need to get gear in? The photo may be deceiving, but from my couch it looks like you are on toprope.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Pony Express P1 to Zip Code (5.9+)
By: Greg D When: Dec 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route. Not sure about the above comment. The route takes you right to a two bolt anchor with chains.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Westworld Dome : Warpaint (5.10c PG13)
By: Greg D When: Nov 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: We rapped with one 70m rope no problem. On a few of the upper raps there wasn't a lot of rope to spare so watch your rope ends, of course. From on top of the 5.8 pitch you can get all the way to the top of a large boulder on the ground with just enough rope. But it requires a bit of a scary push off the wall followed by a quick zip down to land on top of the boulder thirty feet above the ground with little rope to spare. Don't worry. You don't need to do this if you don't want to. There ar... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Static Cling (5.11a/b) : Photo
By: Greg D When: Oct 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Umm. Thanks for the input and you are absolutely right about climbing sandstone when it is wet. If you have ever been there in a downpour you would know that this route stays completely dry. But, don't tell anyone.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Little Scraggy Dome : Craggy Tur (5.10+)
By: Greg D When: Oct 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The third bolt (button head) was replaced October 3, 2010 with Ken's blessing. The first buttonhead is right next to a newer bolt on Two Jews Blues.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Sooberb (5.10c)
By: Greg D When: Sep 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 2 has multiple options. The best line I have found goes up about 10 feet, then moves left around the corner, then remains on the beautiful but a bit runout slab. Resist the temptation to go all the way left to the easy crack or back to the easy crack on the right. Zig zag your way up the slab as long as you can. Great climbing with occasional good gear. (Reminiscent of the second pitch of Where Eagles Dare, but not as hard.)
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Little Scraggy Dome : Two Jews Blues (5.10a)
By: Greg D When: Sep 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent and sustained route. The cruxes are harder than the last pitch of Topo Oceans. Loads of 9+ and 10- slab with 10++ cruxes, especially if you stay left of the final bolts on the last pitch. The crack near the top is very unlikely intended by the FAs.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Tired of Talus (5.11b)
By: Greg D When: Sep 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bright Blue? Yuk!
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Location: CO : Steamboat Springs : North of Town : Seedhouse Crag
By: Greg D When: Aug 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Umm, the walls face west. So, there's lots of shade in the am.
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