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Rock Climbing Photo: Hanging out with Karin on the summit of Warlock Ne...


Member Since: Apr 10, 2006
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Greg Barnes

Greg Barnes
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Point Rank: # 432
Total Points: 1,660
Last Year: 154
Last 30 Days: 0
31 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 890 | Routes 86 | Areas 19 | Photos 84 | Page Improvements | Comments 95 | Posts 438 | Stars 129 | Ratings 39
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Pool Skimmer (5.9)
By: Greg Barnes When: Nov 20, 2015

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Comments: Your partner agreed as well? Huh, maybe I was having an off day, I'll try it again next time up there - you did start by stemming up the dihedral and moving left into the finger crack?

And no, I'm not too strong, it's been years (and 2 kids) since I onsighted harder than 9+, and even at my very strongest 11- was my max. Never even toproped a single 11c face clean (followed a few cracks up to there). Kept pulling finger tendons on face, cracks are my friend....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Olympic Swimmer (5.7)
By: Greg Barnes When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: I wouldn't argue with 5.5 or 5.6, I figured it was a direct retrobolt of the first pitch of Lichen to Like, so I kept the 5.7 rating from the D'Antonio guide.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Pool Skimmer (5.9)
By: Greg Barnes When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: No offense, Tony, but maybe you're too strong of a climber to accurately rate this? There's no way those moves left out of the initial stemming dihedral into the finger crack are anywhere near 5.7, you'll get someone hurt rating it that way (particularly with the thin pro). Maybe you climbed up to the first bolt a different way?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Finger Crack (5.9)
By: Greg Barnes When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: After the easy start, the first couple moves - cranking on finger locks with basically nothing for feet - is solid 5.10 (at Yosemite, the Needles, Joshua Tree, etc). Just because it's short doesn't mean people should sandbag. After those first couple cranks, it eases off to 5.9.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Unnamed (submitted as Doc's... (5.7)
By: Greg Barnes When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: The pro before the first bolt is unlikely to hold due to rock quality. As is, it's just dumb, it either should have a bolt at the start, or just remove them all and return it to the original state....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Bock! (5.7 PG13)
By: Greg Barnes When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: There are a lot of loose blocks at the top, but there's a detached block on the right wall - a logical foothold if trying to move around right to the anchor for the arete - which is ready to go and extremely dangerous for anyone on the ground. I'd recommend heading straight up and belaying from the tree.

This would be OK if the bushy start and rubble-filled finish were cleaned, but it's hard to recommend it as is.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : Of Human Bondage (5.10 X)
By: Greg Barnes When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: Replaced both bolts 10/18/15 with 1/2" x 2.75" stainless bolts. The second bolt would not have held a take let alone a fall, it was fractured about 1/2" under the surface with only 20% of the metal left attached (on a 1/4" bolt).


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Lazy Squaw Spire : Lazy Squaw Spire (5.9)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 25, 2015

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Comments: Just a note - if you rap directly down the route on the southwest side, it's a 95' rap. Since a 60m is a "short" rope these days, it won't affect many people!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nursing Home : Grampa's Day Out (5.9)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: Dangerous for a 5.9 leader, easy to deck on the sharp ledge if you blow the crux moves getting past the first bolt. Also it's solid 5.10 if you try to go straight to the second bolt instead of staying right (and even staying right is very tough 5.9). I wouldn't be surprised if a hold or two broke off at some point. Short leaders may need an extendo draw to clip the first bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Splitting Hares (5.10a)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 11, 2015

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Comments: We replaced the worn links at the anchor last weekend with fat, stainless links & rings provided by the ASCA.

Please donate! The ASCA is a 501(c)3 organization. safeclimbing.org.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Triple Play (5.10a)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: This felt more than contrived - it was just silly. How far do you force a move before stepping back left? I led the stemming corner and clipped all the bolts, on toprope climbing anything other than that felt contrived. Almost like this "route" shouldn't even be in the database, just call it variations on the retrobolted stemming corner.

Still it's nice to be able to do the corner with just 4 draws...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Mountain Rose (5.10a PG13)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 1, 2015

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Comments: The bolt was a rusty 3/8" Lok-bolt design (e.g. powers.com/product_06160.php ) with the threads not quite fully engaged on the nut (perhaps someone had replaced the original thinner hanger with the Metolius hanger that was on it). It turned out the bolt was bent as well. Sketchy! This design of bolt is very weak in the 3/8" size even when new.

The bolt was provided by the ASCA, please donate and help replace old bolts! safeclimbing.org


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : War Drums (5.9 PG13)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 1, 2015

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Comments: All 3 bolts were replaced today 8/1/15, and we added a two bolt anchor to the left of the dying tree & removed all the tat off the tree (just a note - it's dying due to running out of dirt, it has nothing to do with climbers). The first two bolts were rusty 3/8" sleeve bolts (of the Lok-bolt design, e.g. powers.com/product_06160.php - a very weak bolt even when new), and the third was a 1/4" buttonhead.

Hardware for the bolt replacement was provided by the ASCA, please support bolt ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Timeless aka New Route Righ... (5.10a)
By: Greg Barnes When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: I agree with Nick. This has very delicate smeary stemming, Joshua Tree 5.10b or even c, only a few moves but a surprise if you're expecting 5.9-ish climbing. Fun!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Lost Arrow Spire
By: Greg Barnes When: Apr 23, 2015

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Comments: Now closed to all climbing until the new peregrine closure is lifted:

nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/cli...


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Area : Medlicott Dome, Center : Forsaken (5.10d)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: Oh yeah, in case any hard-core folks are wondering, we replaced all bolts on White Line Fever…not that there are many. I also re-seated all pitons - there are more than shown in the topo - but some are kind of sketchy even re-seated. And a last tip for White Line Fever - there's a 2-piton "anchor" partway up the last steep pitch (5.9), this is just pro before the runout, the bolted belay is hidden under the big roof up top.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Area : Medlicott Dome, Right : Deflector (5.9 R)
By: Greg Barnes When: Jul 13, 2014

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Comments: This route was mostly done in 2010, finished in 2012, but Elmar & I returned yesterday to add/move a few bolts and install the doubled pro bolt rap station on the final pitch (which allows rapping with a single 70m).


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Mountain Light Wall : El Duderino (5.9)
By: Greg Barnes When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: Yesterday we upgraded the first two and the last bolts, all of which were previously 1/4".


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Mountain Light Wall : Snowblind (5.8)
By: Greg Barnes When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: Yesterday we added a third pro bolt to the slab, and upgraded the second bolt to 3/8" (1/4" originally). We'd intended to add that 3rd bolt for years, just hadn't had the chance!


Location: NV : Red Rock
By: Greg Barnes When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: "Red Rock"??? Never heard of it. I have literally never heard a climber call Red Rocks "Red Rock."

Admins - you really should switch everything to Red Rocks - "Red Rock" as a title is just embarrassing Mountain Project!

In case people disagree…I present Exhibit A:

Rock Climbing Photo: Red Rocks guides.
Red Rocks guides.



Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area : Mental Block (5.10c)
By: Greg Barnes When: Jan 16, 2014

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Comments: Wylie, just FYI on that p2 bolt, I replaced the 1/4" bolt in 1999 by expanding the original hole.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mariuolumne Area : Mariuolumne Dome : ... : Seconds to Darkness (5.8)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: Years ago Don Reid asked me to add an anchor bolt to back up the sling, but we never got around to it. Definitely double-check the slings!


Location: CO : Donate to the ASCA through ...
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: Just a minor correction - Planet Granite is matching donations through August 15th!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Area : Medlicott Dome, Center : Excellent Smithers (5.10a)
By: Greg Barnes When: Jul 10, 2013

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Comments: "The first acentionists should have gone straight up to the last stance at the current belay on pitch 4 instead of wandering out to the left..just me and my partner's opinion."

That's funny...because I did go straight up! Turns out there's a hard friction bulge that way, so I traversed left to the obvious weakness and up that (back right) to the belay ledge. Then we moved the line to where it's left-trending to get to the easy way through the bulge (and we added a bunch of bolts).

Definitely n... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 30 - The Rostrum : The North Face (5.11c)
By: Greg Barnes When: Nov 30, 2012

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Comments: It's a bummer that someone felt it was necessary to put a bolt on the P6 offwidth. Does anyone know what the deal with it is? Was it a historical bolt that was replaced or someone just too lazy to bring a 5" piece?
I replaced it - it was an old original 1/4" with Leeper. We (Jack Hoeflich and I) considered just chopping it, but not everyone had big cams at that point. We did debate about it. We decided the opposite on the single remaining 1/4" bolt along the final pitch of the Good Boo... more >>


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