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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron
By: Graham Rogers When: May 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lost my left Vasque trailrunner shoe here on Saturday as it unclipped from my beltloop, probably on the downclimb. Any sightings? It was a great shoe.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Fast Draw (5.10)
By: Graham Rogers When: May 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yep, that's what some others said above anyway. I only meant "some good news" (for me) because the shiny new bolts along the splitter crack were chopped, not the Kor originals. Sounds like there's a chance that the last chopper took one or more original bolt too, unless I didn't see it on the first pitch.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Fast Draw (5.10)
By: Graham Rogers When: Mar 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some good news: all bolts on the first pitch hand crack have been chopped and so have many on the second half. So, a little updated gear advice, especially if you'd like to climb this in modern style with wide gear, foregoing some pitons or bolts. At the top of the first pitch we traversed left, passed 3-4 pitons, and belayed in the wide notch. A #0.75 Camalot was nice to have in the belay tucked in behind the maybe one good part of a crumbly block. Starting out the 2nd pitch, the said... more >>
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Location: Michael Ybarra : Blanca 2007 : Photo
By: Graham Rogers When: Jun 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A new direct line on the shield? What was that?
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires : Higher Cathedral Spire : Regular Route (Higher Cathe... (5.9)
By: Graham Rogers When: Jun 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The pitch 2 variation out over the roof right onto a foothold sparse arete and flaring hands adds some challenge and comes straight up to the belay. Seemed a bit harder than the rest of the route.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires : Higher Cathedral Spire : Regular Route (Higher Cathe... (5.9)
By: Graham Rogers When: Jun 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: No worries, just adding some positive balance. We climbed the NE Butt of HCR (just across the talus field) after I wrote my last comment and watched climbers disturb a crazy amount of rock, I think from the ledge above pitch 4. Careful on the "shattered rock" variation in Supertopo for pitch 4.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires : Higher Cathedral Spire : Regular Route (Higher Cathe... (5.9)
By: Graham Rogers When: May 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some loose rock, yes, but unmemorable? 3 pitches of 5.9, incredible setting, great exposure, and a plethora of variations for your choosing. The hike isn't even bad. Definitely classic in my book.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a)
By: Graham Rogers When: Mar 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not that anyone cares, but my second ed. Swain book rates pitch 2 5.8+ and pitch 5 and 5.9+. That already seemed a bit inflated, but I don't have much perspective at RR.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a)
By: Graham Rogers When: Mar 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just want to emphasize the rope eating crack if rapping pitch 4...I attempted to pull my ropes carefully, but obviously I needed more grace...and a knife. 3 other ropes were chomped in the same spot.
Also, the 4th pitch crux felt a bit harder with the weight of 2 60m doubles hanging their full length behind. You can break it into 2 pitches pretty easily if you'd rather; maybe 50 or so feet down from the top are two rusty, but reasonable bolts and a crack to back up.
Despite losing ... more >>
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Disappointment Peak : Open Book (5.9)
By: Graham Rogers When: Aug 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: We left our stuff at the base off the climb since we camped at the Meadows. So, descending back into Garnet Canyon although I'm sure is a little less pleasurable than via Surprise Lake, is still not too bad. You'll end up descending in the gully to the right of the climb. After a little wandering, we encountered 2 sling rappels on trees before getting to the gully for an easy walk.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Mainliner (5.9)
By: Graham Rogers When: Jul 15, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route felt so perfect in every way. The crux for me also was the crack/bulge section, not the stemming part below. I'm pretty sure this can be done in 4 pitches without drag if you're exiting at the walkoff ledge below the summit. We did it in 5, but our 5th pitch was ~30 feet maybe, and I think we had at least that left.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : Purple Haze (5.9)
By: Graham Rogers When: Jun 2, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: As mentioned in Friends in High Places, which shares the crux of this route in its line, the pro on this route (at the crux) is sketchy at best . A budding 5.9 leader might do this a little later. The (aid gear) blue alien mentioned above did hold a tug and is the best I could find with my fairly standard rack, but it isn't assuring. On the positive side, you would not likely fall very far on the piece since you can manage a good stance quickly. But if it blows (also likely) you would deck o... more >>
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : New Wave (5.10a)
By: Graham Rogers When: May 29, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Take the quick yet dicey balance moves of New Wave for 110' to get to the Assembly Line pump.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Bon Homme Variation (5.8)
By: Graham Rogers When: May 29, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb was my first at the tower, and was hugely satisfying. The "blind" traverse around the arete into the crack was spectacular and not an easy give away...just find the key foothold, or make the route 5.10 - like my second. After 'round the well-protected corner crux, the route felt almost 5.8 with your choice of gear and some rests. It's a pretty long pitch which I recall having mostly wide finger- to hand-size gear, requiring a little conservation. On the wide section at the bottom, ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Ginseng Junkie (5.10a)
By: Graham Rogers When: Mar 16, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this yesterday on that fine 75 degree day. Agreed, this felt soft for Eldo 10a because you are through the crux to a nice jug so quickly.I'd think tall people may never find the crux, or for them this could be called a half-move wonder...or one-third move.Still a satisfying move, no matter. We definitely enjoyed the finish continuing after the crux left, as suggested, on Tiger Balm arete; so airy, sooo nice!
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