Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Revival (5.10a)
By: Graham Roff When: May 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun route, with an easy bottom half and interesting top portion with thin crack and balancy face moves. The 5.10 section is very short.
|
Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Nutcracker (5.9)
By: Graham Roff When: Mar 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quite sustained and seemed sandbagged at 5.9. But it could have been all the bird crap greasing up the jams and my lungs I guess.
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Disneyland Dome : Enchanted Stairway (5.9 R)
By: Graham Roff When: May 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you start the route up the crack (as in the picture, and following the most obvious line) then there is no significant run-out and the climbing is much easier than 5.9. Tricky gear can be had most of the way up using nuts and small cams and slinging a few horns. I only found a single bolt about 20 feet above the end of the crack (which agrees with the Vogel guide).
It is a 60m rope stretcher to go from the base of the crack all the way to the top of the formation - a long fun climb!
|
Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : El Whampo (5.7)
By: Graham Roff When: Jul 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: After the second pitch it is possible to finish by heading up and slightly to the left over the root of the dihedral (making it a three pitch route instead of five). This avoids the loose uninspired last pitches. From the end of this pitch you can drop straight into the north gully descent.
The best easy hand crack in Idylwild.
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley Of Kings : ... : The Sanga's On Fire (5.10a)
By: Graham Roff When: Oct 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great route. Protection is a little tricky in the bottom finger crack, but adequate. Plan your gear carefully near the top of the flake as rope drag could get bad when you start up the hand crack.
We did a short rap off a knob down and to the right of the climb, to a nest of nuts and old slings, and from there down to the starting ledge. Ugly ugly descent - someone should put some rap anchors in up there.
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley Of Kings : ... : Witch Hunt (5.10b)
By: Graham Roff When: Oct 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: While the climbing is great, it is a very short route with basically 10 or 15 feet of real climbing. I would not really say worthy of the four stars the guide gives it. Definitely fun and well protected though.
Note that if you rap off the single bolt up top you will not make it to the ground with a 60m - you end up having to rap off the end and dropping a couple feet. It works, but be prepared.
|
Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Left Side : The Innominate (5.9)
By: Graham Roff When: Jun 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is possible to do all the significant climbing in a single pitch and belay above the 5.9 section at a better stance. This leaves the second pitch as a scramble to the top. Just watch for rope drag when placing gear.
Fun route to do on the way down the friction descent. Great exposure and position.
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Lower Right Ski Track (5.10)
By: Graham Roff When: Apr 17, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Placing gear after the bolt and before the ledge would be an impressive feat - better to just pull through the couple of burly moves to safety. Past the ledge the climbing remains interesting, and pulling over the final overhang is fun. Definitely a route worth doing.
As a side note, the guidebook does list the crux move as being 5.10c.
|
Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain
By: Graham Roff When: Apr 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Currently the only guide to this area is online (excellent color pdf format), but no longer available since the SDCC website went down. Email me if you want a copy (grahamroff@hotmail.com).
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Ellsmere Island : Foreign Legion (5.10b)
By: Graham Roff When: Apr 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty cool climb if you are in the area. Protection is tricky, be sure to bring a set of micro nuts and a cool head. While not 10d as in the original guide, I'd say pretty solid 10c.
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Lakeside Rock : An Eye For An Eye And A Rou... (5.10b)
By: Graham Roff When: Apr 10, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good route, but the rock feels a little loose in places. Seemed harder and more sustained than Run For Your Life and definitely more heady (steep friction versus edging making the difference I guess).You want to be strong at the grade before attempting the roof move as a fall just above would be ugly.Be sure to extend the draws at the start and end of the slight traverse or you will be fighting bad rope drag near the end.
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Snickers : Snickers - North Face : Funny Bone (5.8-)
By: Graham Roff When: Feb 27, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: A pretty fun route with interesting moves on solid rails and flakes. Pretty mellow for 5.8, I would say not harder than 5.7 at most.There is a bolted anchor on top.
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon : Watanobe Wall (5.10a)
By: Graham Roff When: Feb 6, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not a bad route if you are in the area looking for a warmup or last route of the day, but nothing particularly remarkable about the route...
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Double Dip (5.6)
By: Graham Roff When: Mar 21, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was the first bolt there originally? It seems unnecessary as one more easy move puts you at the bottom of the flake where solid gear can be placed.Definitely one of the most fun slab routes for the grade.
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mel's Diner : Left Mel Crack (5.10b)
By: Graham Roff When: Mar 19, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Solid crux at the bottom, rest of the route eases off a lot but keeps you thinking. Definitely a fun climb.
|
RSS Feed
