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Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : Echo Roof : Future Shock (5.11a)
By: GoBotRocker When: Apr 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's a gorgeous line. If you time it right, there's a free biner for your effort. I have to say thanks to Ben R. for being so relentless about getting us onto this climb. Maybe when I grow up I'll make it from #3 to #4 on the 1st attempt. Until then I'll be more than overjoyed to get my butt repeatedly handed to me. Gear Beta, a Red Bull for the belayer, "keep a weather eye".
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Location: MA : Rose Ledge : Tennessee (5.10)
By: GoBotRocker When: Feb 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tennessee Flake, much easier B4 "the flake" took a ride. It has at least 2 variations. 1st var, from the pedestal climb left on an arching ripple (5.10 or so). There is another variation that works to the right (just a bit) to surmount the pedestal, it's very delicate.
Solar Flare, 5.11b, is also a variation off the main route 1/3 the way up. A left-arching crack leads to a vertical seam. With 2 buckets and 2 cruxes on the climb, you'll be happy to have strong fingers and a cool day, as w... more >>
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Location: MA : Rose Ledge : Guillotine (aka Double Over... (5.8)
By: GoBotRocker When: Feb 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another great climb. The roof is not as difficult as it might look, remember it's only 5.8. Also makes a great lead.
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Location: MA : Rose Ledge : Double Helix (aka Rikert's ... (5.9)
By: GoBotRocker When: Feb 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Double Helix is a short, sweet and very protectable climb.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Bonnie's Roof (5.9)
By: GoBotRocker When: Jul 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Man O Man, what a sweet long 1st pitch. I got to lead the direct variation the 1st time and fell in love with it. The Direct finish has great gear and will keep your attention until the top. I remember looking over my shoulder 1/2 way throught those roofs and the exposure was awesome.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Casablanca (5.9)
By: GoBotRocker When: Jul 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: In the photo of the girl placing the #1 Camalot (what is it with # 1 Camalots), I chose to use a smaller cam and moved it to the right as far as I could, hoping it would be less likely to rip out due to the flex in the flake...
I'm 5'8" and I was able to reach the hold without performing any magic tricks.
Otherwise a great roof climb, especially when the feet cut loose.
While you're there, Casa Emilio at 5.4 has a nice top pitch; great for new leaders.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Cascading Crystal Kaleidosc... (5.8 PG13)
By: GoBotRocker When: Jul 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 3rd pitch is truly one of the best here. I agree the start of the 2nd pitch has the potential for a nasty fall. Never done the 5.10 variation on the 3rd pitch, how good is it?
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Erect Direction (5.10c)
By: GoBotRocker When: Jul 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: All I want for Christmas is a "REALLY BIG" pair.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : High Exposure (5.6)
By: GoBotRocker When: Jul 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great top pitch. If you have solid leading skills, don't talk yourself out of leading it. Yes it can be intimidating the 1st or 5th time pulling throught the crux from under the roof to the side wall. Oh well, that's Gunks 5.6 and this climb has bomber hand holds all the way up the 3rd pitch, great gear and enough air to keep you talking/smilling/skitzing and bragging about that pitch forever...
Once you pull around the roof and are onto THE WALL don't forget to breathe and smile.
The bad... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Modern Times (5.8+)
By: GoBotRocker When: Jul 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: As good as it's gonna get. It's a "reach and pullathon".
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst (5.6)
By: GoBotRocker When: Jul 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another awesome route, The hanging belay still gets my attention. My second climb of the new year, we did it on New Years day. The climb was bone dry until the top out which was covered with an inch or so of snow...
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Shockley's Ceiling (5.6)
By: GoBotRocker When: Jul 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent climb. Better than Hi E, cause the 2nd pitch was a blast too. It's a Gunks 5.6, meaning there are great hand holds from the bottom to the top. I slammed a cam into the roof's crack and pulled over it, go for it, the gear is there...
But I did noticed just below the roof there was a very old bag of sand tucked into the crack.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Limelight (5.7)
By: GoBotRocker When: Jul 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb, That pin IS still there at the top of the vertical crack before the crux traverse.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : MF (5.9)
By: GoBotRocker When: Jul 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: MF is a blast, althought a scary blast. The 1st pitch wasn't over till I got to the anchor. The 2nd pitch roof is easy and has good pro. Not a good choice for your 1st 5.9. Also a great candidate for twins or doubles. That all said, it's a climb like Shockley's or Bonnies (with the Direct variation) that should be climbed every year until they confine me to a wheel chair.
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Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: GoBotRocker When: May 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmmmmmmmm, deep breath, release, relax, let go with the claws...
My own process of maturing hasn't gone as fast as I or others might like, but I do know that we all mature at our own rate and really cannot force anyone else to grow up. But I can E-mail the ranger Laura Joss (hope I got that right) and affirm to her that I am embarrassed and bummed by the recent actions by Mr. Potter.
The extra Hoopla on this thread just creates a pattern of division between us. Some patterns aren't really wor... more >>
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Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: GoBotRocker When: May 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I myself would have chosen to NOT climb a thing that might yet again throw a negative spotlight onto climbers and climbing.
It's my place in the community to make good choices for the future of climbing.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Overhang Bypass (5.7)
By: GoBotRocker When: Apr 29, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another great route, 2 crux's, Yeah Yeah Yeah I know. I loved the left crack out of the trough on the 1st pitch, protect it with a tri-cam and a nut and GO. The traverse was fun and has a sweet spot for a cam 1/2 way across, Don't let the traverse mess with your mind, plug the gear and go, the hand holds are there, feet too. The top is cool too... E.T.A. 3 min, 23.41 sec from tent.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Houser Buttress Area : Loose Lady (5.10a)
By: GoBotRocker When: Apr 29, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh how I longed to lay my hands on this rock, was worth waiting years to do. Yup I'd agree the crux is at the first bolt, I thought it was a 5.9, Oopps... Another fun climb that's was a 10 minuete walk from my tent. Hey the Fridge Magnet Dispenser at the top was empty, wasupwidat?
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Double Dip (5.6)
By: GoBotRocker When: Apr 29, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another fun route. We had the pleasure of meeting a Swarm of Bee's as they did a drive - by, while we were packing up after the climb. They Buzzed by two climber's and kept going without any incident's.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : Walk on the Wild Side (5.8)
By: GoBotRocker When: Apr 29, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun climb, Nice "Dog House", at the top of the P1. Glad I took 2 60 M ropes... My forgetful partner, calls this climb "Crazy Feet". No matter the name still fun. Oh and the acces trail is not directly across from the parking lot it's about 100' to the right as you face the cliff, look for the brown 4' tall stake with the Access Fund trail marker on it.
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