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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10) : Photo
By: goatboywonder When: Nov 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh, I should mention this is at the top of the chimneny pitch, just below the belay ledge.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: goatboywonder When: Nov 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a pretty nasty death block at the top of the chimney pitch on the climbers left. It looks like a perfect flake to throw a runner over to protect the last move onto the belay ledge (I did it the first time). However, upon closer inspection you are able to wiggle the whole thing like a loose tooth. Be careful with it! If it goes, it will probably tumble down the chimney right onto the belay. I chalked a giant X on it. I am also going to add a pic of the block in the gallery with Brent hap... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Organ Pipes (5.6)
By: goatboywonder When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A quick(er) way back to the base is to rap off the top of Conads. If you are not familiar with where the top of Conads is, then it may be tough to find. Essentially you want to get on the west side of the little ridge you topped out on (cross over to the climbers left). You will see a steep ramp with a gaping, flaring crack running away from you (with your back is to the owls). This crack should remind you of the first pitch of Organ Pipes, but less steep. Head down that crack and you will find ... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : La Chaim (5.7 R)
By: goatboywonder When: Nov 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Real nice climb. Quite runout in spots but manageable. The moves into the final crack on the first pitch really got my attention. Kind of a funky mantle waaay above your last piece of gear.
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Location: IA : Pictured Rocks : Gumby Wall
By: goatboywonder When: Oct 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This wall tends to get a lot of sun on a winter afternoon.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls
By: goatboywonder When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found a pair of prescription glasses during the approach to Conads. Left them at the TH under the sign.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : Hiatus (5.7)
By: goatboywonder When: Oct 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Posted a TR here http://www.supertopo.com/Trip-Report/246/Short_TR_of_climbin>>>>>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : East Ridge (5.8)
By: goatboywonder When: Sep 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route a few days ago. Super fun, in my opinion. I was a bit apprehensive after hearing about all the runouts but found it to protect very nicely, especially the A-shaped roof. I was a bit sketched before pulling the roof so I loaded it with gear. 2 bomber stoppers and a #3 Camalot all in about 3 feet and then a #0.5 Camalot a little higher.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Osiris (5.7)
By: goatboywonder When: Sep 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a great route. I felt that a 5.7 is a pretty fair grade. The first pitch is definitely old school climbing. Keep your back to the right wall for about 90% of the pitch, figure out how to heel-toe and you'll feel pretty secure. The crux pitch (3rd for us) was super nice. Well worth the hassle of the first pitch. The wall get pretty steep with a pair of prefect hand cracks.... mmmm, delicious.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Pinnacle : Batman and Robin (5.6)
By: goatboywonder When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route yesterday. The descent is not too hard (at least in the daylight!). Here is what we did, however it should be noted that we did not leave anything at the base.
Rap off the east side of the pinnacle. Keep rapping until you land on a ledge with two large pine trees. ~70 feet.
Coil the rope, put on your tennies, and keep heading east. There are several huge cairns to follow.
After about 100 yards you have to pull off a v0 boulder problem into a narrow slot. It is short and the lan... more >>
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Skull Cave : Pygmy Mastodon Boner (5.12a/b)
By: goatboywonder When: Aug 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am surprised at the trash talk this route gets. I thought is was pretty fun, even with the stupid ending.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Funny Face : Photo
By: goatboywonder When: Aug 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey! That guy on the right is Eric Morland!!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : US 36 (between Estes Park &... : Buttonrock : Buick Rocks and Hitler's Se... : Unknown Face (5.10a)
By: goatboywonder When: Aug 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree that it felt a little harder than 10a, especially compared to Green Slab (9+). Then again, I also did it in a light rain. Opening moves are thin and getting the feet over the first roof was fun.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : US 36 (between Estes Park &... : Buttonrock : Buick Rocks and Hitler's Se... : The Buick (5.10a)
By: goatboywonder When: Aug 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun lead, too bad it is so short. I did not use any wires but stopped at the bolts for Green Slab. Pretty strenuous but you can have gear anywhere you want it.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Ironclads : Mount Boner : Side Effects (5.10c)
By: goatboywonder When: Jul 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The last bolt hanger has been removed by someone so either take a hand size cam, a stopper to "sling" the bolt stud, or run it out over easy rock to the anchors.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Tree Roof (5.8)
By: goatboywonder When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climb up to the roof can be adequately protected if you shoot left on the bushy ramp about 10 feet up until you meet the roof and then head back right under the roof to the bolt. To avoid rope drag, run out the initial ramp (which is easy) as much as you dare and then use long runners. The bolt is scary. Definitely back it up.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Slabosaurus : Westward Ho (5.8+ R)
By: goatboywonder When: Jul 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought clipping the second bolt was pretty mellow but I am 6' tall and could reach it off of bomber feet. Personally I thought the crux was moving between bolt 2 and 3 where you really have to trust some slabby feet.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Slabosaurus : Westward Expansion (5.8)
By: goatboywonder When: Jul 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Too bad this isn't a longer route.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Slabosaurus : Hallett's View (5.8)
By: goatboywonder When: Jul 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I enjoyed this route quite a bit. The holds seem pretty solid (at least compared to Donna's Dyno!) but the pin looks sketchy to me. I yanked on it quite a bit and it did not move but the way is is orientated does not inspire much confidence. Fortunately, the climbing to the next bolt is pretty solid. The roof can be protected with a #0.75 Camalot.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Slabosaurus : Donna's Dyno (5.8+)
By: goatboywonder When: Jul 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Most of the climbing on this is pretty good but the death flake about halfway up would deter me from doing it again. Also, there is a seriously expanding flake just past the first bolt. Finally, there is a pretty good runout on easy rock between the last bolt and the anchors. If you want to keep it super safe, you may want to bring some cams.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Book Boulders
By: goatboywonder When: Jun 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey, these boulders appear to be on ranch property. Does anyone know if there are any access issues for these guys?
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Edge of Time (5.9)
By: goatboywonder When: Oct 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was just on this last Saturday. The first bolt is indeed back in place. Wow, be ready for getting to the second bolt if you are on lead. Solid 5.9 with "landing on your belayer" potential!
It looks to me like whoever chopped the first bolt ended up adding a pretty useful hold right in the crux. The new bolt is not in the old hole. It is really unfortunate that such a stellar route now feel like it has a manufactured hold on it. Would it be cool for me to fill that old hole with epoxy? I don't... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Spiral Route (5.4)
By: goatboywonder When: Jul 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Killer route, especially for a newbie alpinist. Molly and I did the route on June 29 and had a great time. You can see pics here
http://www.flickr.com/photos/amos_n_molly/sets/7215760076218>>>>>
I did not think the descent was too difficult to follow. Yes it was tedious and exposed but as long as you resist the urge to rappel you should be OK.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Dancing Madly Backwards (5.10b PG13)
By: goatboywonder When: Sep 29, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was wondering if the crack above and right of the roof was considered "in". It looks like the natural line but I was told that it wasn't part of the climb. Any comments?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Peter's Project (5.7)
By: goatboywonder When: Aug 2, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent climb. So far, this is my favorite 5.7 lead at the Lake. The loose block below the crux that you have to yard off of made me nervous but sound like it has been there forever. Also, I though it was kind of run out at the top. No worries though, it is easy climbing.
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