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Member Since: Apr 21, 2008
Last Visit: 4 days ago
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Point Rank: # 2,493
Total Points: 213
Last Year: 102
Last 30 Days: 0
7 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has gloomis been climbing?










Contributions


All 83 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 35 | Page Improvements | Comments 18 | Posts | Stars 25 | Ratings 3

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Hanging Garden : Primal Rage (5.12+)
By: gloomis When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: Great route! Very bouldery cruxes on perfect stone with wild exposure.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : North End : War Games (5.12b)
By: gloomis When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: Fun route! Get's at you right from the start and keeps it on until the anchors. Get on it


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Hanging Garden : Aries (5.12d)
By: gloomis When: Apr 29, 2014

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Comments: This line doesn't look like much from the ground but man it flows really well. Fun route that I'll definitely do again and recommend to others.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : North End : Nicotine (5.13a/b)
By: gloomis When: Oct 27, 2013

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Comments: This classic line once again has it's own independent anchor. Don't miss out on some balancy 5.10 moves which lead to the second fixed pin that protects steep 5.8 before the anchor. Thanks to Sean Barb for the hardware and to Tim Fisher for his expertise in it's placement. Enjoy


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : North End : Middle Road (5.12+)
By: gloomis When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: Anchor revamped October 2013


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : North End : Middle Road (5.12+)
By: gloomis When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: I'll give a nod for 12d. My favorite on the wall so far


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : North End : Superman's Dead (5.12b/c R)
By: gloomis When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: Great alternate finish to Mighty Mouse. I would give it 12b PG13. There is a bit of a runout after the horizontal band where MM cuts right but it would be a clean fall from there. A #1 Metolius TCU fits perfectly to protect the crux before you gain a HUGE flat ledge where you can rest and get a good piece. I found plenty of good protection on the headwall. Setting up a TR is easy from the MM anchors. Enjoy


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Hanging Garden : Pooh Corner (5.11a)
By: gloomis When: Sep 12, 2013

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Comments: Get's my vote for best 5.11a at Moores.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Hanging Garden : First In Flight (5.12a)
By: gloomis When: Sep 12, 2013

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Comments: Short but brutal route. I give it 12a/b since it has one definitive crux in the middle and a crazy pump factor. 60 degrees overhung? We didn't setup a belay at the lip and the leader just went to the tree. Rope drage was fine. I would say that if your second isn't compitent at steep 5.12b than belaying your second at the lip would be a VERY GOOD idea.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Hanging Garden : Stars and Bars (5.12b)
By: gloomis When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: 1st bolt replaced June 2013. The rest of the bolts are bomber. Enjoy


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : North End : Bat Attack (5.12b)
By: gloomis When: Aug 14, 2013

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Comments: Anchor updated August 2013. I led the bottom 5.10 section with two small brass placements avoiding the need for two ropes. Tim Fisher says these are mental and would not hold a fall but I think they'd stand a chance. This would be a classic route anywhere, good from start to finish.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Hanging Garden : Hercules (5.14a)
By: gloomis When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: New anchors added Aug 2013. Some of the bolts could use replacing.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Hanging Garden : Double Dare (5.13a)
By: gloomis When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: New stainless steel anchors & protection bolts installed Aug 2013. Enjoy


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Hanging Garden : Pygmalion (5.12d)
By: gloomis When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: New anchors August 2013. Hangers have rusty washers but bolts are good. Hard for the grade but very fun movement.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Table Rock : Wooly Aphid (5.10a)
By: gloomis When: Sep 10, 2012

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Comments: Anyone know what the route to the left of Wooly Aphid is? I accidently got on this line and thought it was better than Wooly Aphid! I started at rap rings ~50 ft above ground level and move up a face, past an old bolt with a d-link and up a right leaning crack. Not in the guidebook.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Table Rock : Waste A Bit (5.10+)
By: gloomis When: Sep 10, 2012

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Comments: Did this route for the first time and was really impressed. It felt like a classic Ship Rock route. A must do if you like steep mixed climbing.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : The Amphitheater : Zombie Woof (5.10b)
By: gloomis When: Jun 29, 2011

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Comments: Great route. I didn't climb it as an offwidth and therefore really enjoyed it. After the juggy traverse, I would suggest briefly crawling in the chimney to place a #4 friend above your head and then coming out of the chimney to pull the roof on jugs. We rapped off a large tree up and right which put us right ontop of the anchors. I don't think many people climb this because its intimidating but it's a classic for the grade in NC.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Vertigo (5.11b)
By: gloomis When: Apr 21, 2008

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Comments: This is the first route which has let me down at Eldo. I found the dihedral pitch to be a short one-move-wonder with fixed pin & stopper for the move. The roof pitch is CHOSS. The last flake on the roof flexes alot plus it's a jug haul to another one-move-wonder. Don't understand the hype.