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phew...nerves rattled, mojo gone... <br />way up in the West Desert


Member Since: Jun 20, 2006
Last Visit: Sep 3, 2012
Contact glen kaplan


Point Rank: # 1,346
Total Points: 446
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
43 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has glen kaplan been climbing?










Contributions


All 277 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos 70 | Page Improvments | Comments 46 | Posts 98 | Stars 32 | Ratings 26
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Mother of Pearl (5.11+) : Photo
By: glen kaplan When: Dec 11, 2011

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Comments: saweet! crazy crazy i was just graduating...from kindergarten! :)

i wish i coulda climbed that stuff before the fall... :)

old reliable that obvious crack coming up into the same alcove?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Red Rock Wall
By: glen kaplan When: Nov 14, 2007

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Comments: you boys sure are busy...don't you live in the other canyon?
thanks for doing it right
i wonder how long its gonna take...never mind...we'll just see.
again...kudos


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Red Rock Wall : Reasoning With The Unreason... (5.11a)
By: glen kaplan When: Nov 14, 2007

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Comments: that must have been unreasonable for two obviously reasonable fellows like yourselves


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Psychobabble Wall : Rock Capades (5.10d)
By: glen kaplan When: Nov 6, 2007

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Comments: I really like this one too...I found it wasn't as steep as some of the other lines on this wall and had to rely on my feet a bit more than on Babble...

I woulnae say this is unusually heady (anymore than the other lines) but it sure takes a few runs or trips to the area just to get use to the flavor here...which is generally steep, technical, and exposed...

bring on the vertigo!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Psychobabble Wall : Psychobabble (5.10c)
By: glen kaplan When: Nov 6, 2007

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Comments: blabble...bobble...bepopple...mmmmmmm....brrrrrr.....

One of my favorites! Especially in the fall when it is one of the last routes to get sun in the area!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Psychobabble Wall : Psychostematic (5.10a)
By: glen kaplan When: Nov 6, 2007

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Comments: Sooooo sweet...every bit of .10a, I find this feels harder than some .11's in the canyon! Either way, once you get a few runs, it eases up a bit...there are tons of great stems and rests along the way...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Psychobabble Wall
By: glen kaplan When: Nov 6, 2007

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Comments: Does anyone know what the amazing looking variation/route in between Babble and Stematic is? It's got 3 bolts (?) and travels up the awesome looking overhanging arete...
Didnae get a chance this evening, but I will definitely be back for this one!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Super Slab
By: glen kaplan When: Oct 16, 2007

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Comments: Route descriptions and more awesome history would be greatly appreciated.

Eventhough moslty moderate, I have scared myself plenty on your worthy routes...par for slab I figure. And I too think this place is rad! Really pretty, great position, great views, lots and lots of rock...

If it wasn't for you and brother smoots work, effort, and vision...we'd be going with what the Ruckman's left us...and that didn't really make Super Slab sound all that good...

cheers!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : Worthy Whoopsie (5.11-)
By: glen kaplan When: Sep 18, 2007

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Comments: Done is done...although there are still too many lurkers on or near the 2nd pitch for comfort...I will just have to make it up there at night or hopefully mid-week (there are people there every time I go...)

2nd pitch is great but it is certainly contrived...oh well...the harder moves are definitely in the e.z. .11 range and require committment to keeping it hard (i.e. it is real easy to just hike up left, over the arete and onto much easier terrain...)

James and I thought this was the best co... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : ... : Photo
By: glen kaplan When: Sep 12, 2007

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Comments: I forget when, but I've updated this route to include an additional bolt between 1 and 2...so now there are three bolts to the first overlap...the rest is the same...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : ... : Photo
By: glen kaplan When: Sep 12, 2007

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Comments: Ryan...true, true...mossy chossy adventure (with one nice section of crack though, huh?)

however, as of 9/14/07 you can see my full vision in its entirety, both pitches are worthy methinks...the whoopsy has something to do with the placement of bolts 1-3 and/or the fact that this line didn't get plucked earlier

and...the whoopsy could also do with the role-modeling faux pas when I finished the route on top of an official HERA group...climb for life...

kudos on your bravery to mine that choss,... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : Sweet and Low (5.5)
By: glen kaplan When: Sep 12, 2007

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Comments: I've actually climbed Birth Simulator...and it is a bit harder not to mention dirty as hell from never getting done and a gear climb in an area that is mainly 'sport'...I think this route is 5.5 at most...

Since no one is suggesting names, and I hate people confusing it with Birth Simulator (which is an entirely different route)...why not call it Birth Stimulator or Earth Simulator or some such?

In the end...I guess "that easy climb to the right of Birth Simulator" is good enough to communicat... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : MEGA (5.9-)
By: glen kaplan When: Sep 12, 2007

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Comments: As of 9/10/07: Please, please, please wear a helmet and climb alert when doing this route. There are still plenty of lurkers (especially a little to the left when getting lowered and on the dirt ledges). Also, the roof/overlap corner has got some friable. All good, just be smart!

As to the "glen u r a freak" plaque...if you only knew :)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress
By: glen kaplan When: Aug 14, 2007

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Comments: Rap Not Lower!!!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : Moral Bells Arete (5.8)
By: glen kaplan When: Aug 14, 2007

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Comments: yeah...the arete stops here!...now

extensions are good! all kinds of extensions...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Tiers : Steel Reserve (5.11c)
By: glen kaplan When: Aug 11, 2007

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Comments: Kent...killa go!...you definitely have nerves and steel reserve!
i got some great video of you flying!!! and will eventually post it somewheres...the pics are all right...

FYI: while i certainly agree Dave/Kent have the most likely FA based on gumption, balls, cleaning, etc...i know i am not the only one to have tr'd this before...after all, you rap down the exact route when rapping off of Gregorio's and LD's 'Conflict' .10d 5/28/04 (the bolted line to the left)

so maybe there is another...

I... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Mt. Timpanogos : Lecherous Leanings (5.11+)
By: glen kaplan When: Aug 11, 2007

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Comments: i couldn't get rid of the C0 rating on the site...but it goes all free! hard and scary, but free...

4 full rope raps gets you to the ground (i.e. double ropes needed)
7 to 5, 5 to 4, 4 to 2, 2 to ground

please, since i don't want to go do this again, pick up my Scarpa Minimas sz 11 1/2 at the base...i forgot them...that's 2 pairs of shoes in 3 months!!!i lost a pair in yosemite at the top of the reg. route!!! and now i forgot a pair at the base of the pillar!!! ahhhhh.....

oh yeah...this is d... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Mt. Timpanogos : Lecherous Leanings (5.11+)
By: glen kaplan When: Aug 11, 2007

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Comments: well...we freed it, but it certainly wasn't a 'redpoint'...here's the story (shortened for web posting of course):
p1:Drew doesn't even get past the 1st bolt before he pulls off a garbage-can sized rock and takes a whipper right back to the ground!!! decides he likes it and attacks first pitch like a parky bare-knuckles champ!!! trundles some more, campuses the .10+ stuff, and makes it safely to belay#1
p2:i climb directly above the belay up to the crux (bolts 4-7), manage to kind of reach... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : Wrecking Ball (5.11a)
By: glen kaplan When: Jul 29, 2007

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Comments: yeah, squeezeplays aren't all that but...
i really don't have a problem with this route because of the area as a whole (and i just put another route around the corner so...)

it is definitely a squeeze job because there really isn't room for two people to climb at the same time (or three for that matter--one on FF, one on WB, and one on HM)...they would be unsafe and falling on each other or at least in eachother's way when lowering...

but...

flip flop approach, generally sport climbs with anc... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : cTr (5.10b)
By: glen kaplan When: Jul 13, 2007

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Comments: I definitely like 'BTB' better (say that 4X fast 4X4) but...
this is certainly a welcome addition to the area and will be on my circuit from now on. Good idea to wear a helmet, belay off to the side, and treat most holds with caution. The route itself doesn't really have any super memorable moves (close at the second roof, and another at the top) but it sure is continuous, sorta long, steep, and huge!!!

Once a bit cleaner, I think this is the best candidate for "first .10 lead" because it is s... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Perla's Ridge and Environs : Ridge of Bliss (5.10 PG13)
By: glen kaplan When: Jul 13, 2007

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Comments: I couldn't resist...
I agree, this is a worthy route (and will only get better). Kudos to the FA's. The 8th pitch "Tower of Bliss" is one of the best pitches I've done in the Wasatch! Although there is still lots of cleaning and trailwork needed, this isn't really too bad of an "adventure" climb (i.e. no epics in the Wasatch).

Craig, the beta is above but here is my take on the ratings:
P1 = 5.8ish maybe .9 w/a little bit of ez run out
P2 = .9/maybe ez .10 (one steepish series of moves and seve... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coal Pit Buttress
By: glen kaplan When: Jun 15, 2007

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Comments: BSmoot: you are absolutely correct! i hope we are o.k. disagreeing about what you intended to communicate and what I alone have interpreted from your post--i really do not mean to insult or disregard your input. it's weird, since you may consider this as a fuss, but i agree with you...no one should remove any 'important climber or non-climber history anchors' (pun intended) from our backyard!

what was/is the important climber history behind the bolt that was located above what i know as the 2-b... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Mexican Crack (5.10a)
By: glen kaplan When: Jun 12, 2007

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Comments: D.Shiembob, if you really want to know...try climbing the dihedral like a chimney (i.e. put your whole body/butt into the wall on the right, use both feet on the face holds out left, and voila...you can get no hands rests for most of the hard section! Then simply use the bomber face holds on the left up high and lunge for the horn...
Once you get it down pat, don't even bother putting gear in until you get that horn...it makes for a much smoother rope run...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coal Pit Buttress
By: glen kaplan When: Jun 12, 2007

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Comments: BSmoot,
I really know that TC has some baggage and what not, especially here on this site. But,I think your question is just more fuel for that fire...it seems challenging, to me anyway. Maybe a more effective question would be, 'TC, yeah, now that I think about it...I do know a little about the fixed hardware up there eventhough its not in any of the books...let's get together and see whats up before you pull anything else...I care about that history!"

or something to that affect.

I'm not t... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Tingey's Terror (5.7)
By: glen kaplan When: May 1, 2007

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Comments: I dunno...we just did it today (5/1/07) as an approach to the Flakes (lots to say about that route)...and we saw two anchors from Fudd Ledge. The left anchor isn't actually on the ledge but 10 to 15'left...I've done all the variations from this ledge now and keep coming back to the right most line (since it links up the best with the upper pitches)but I do like going slightly left from the right anchors too...if you look closely up and left from Fudd, you can see another set of chains about 80 ... more >>


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