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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Photo
By: germsauce When: Oct 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I want this on my wall!
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : The Ineditable (V6-7)
By: germsauce When: Oct 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll be in Aspen this week, thinking of staying the weekend, anyone have an opinion on whether this is safe to work sans spotters with 2 pads? I plan on falling a lot before this is doable.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : Cloud Shadow traverse (V5)
By: germsauce When: May 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a rt hand crimp to gain the final topout moves (allowing you to bring left hand into the upper rt part of the large hueco. I'd never seen it before, it's 1/2 pad 3 fingers, but it seems to really make the moves easier. Wondering if this is a new feature?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Days of Future Passed aka O... (5.12a)
By: germsauce When: Apr 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is the chalky rail system about 3-4 feet left of the bolts (and the crack just left of the bolt line) on, or are you only supposed to use the thin crack just next to the bolts? I either really lucked out with the sequence or used a whole slew of holds that weren't on.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Extension Boulder : Sunshine (V6)
By: germsauce When: Feb 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Curious if I did "the line" or some variation? Though if this is a variation, then the line seems contrived, but given previous descriptions, it's unclear.
I started down low on a small left hand crimp and rt hand on a large flat hold, moved up to the higher of two small but nice crimpers first, then the lower (these are still low, maybe 4-5 feet off the ground), shifted feet and went up to the very small crimps (crux?), also to the higher first then other hand to the lower... and then out ... more >>
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Puff Daddy (5.11d)
By: germsauce When: Dec 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun route, the book gives it 11a/b, which may be the first few moves off of the ledge, but that's even a stretch, and you can rest all over this thing. I'm no sandbagger, but I'd honestly give it 10b/c. Harder, obviously if climbing cracks is foreign to you.
Watch for loose rock, a baseball-sized chunk fell out while I was on it.
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Location: WA : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Middle East Wall : Desert Dessert (5.11a)
By: germsauce When: Jun 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is sick and this wall is sick. good shade.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Stoney Point : Sculpture's Crack Wall : Sculpture's Crack Traverse (V1)
By: germsauce When: May 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: i'm sorry but v-1 or v-2? my sister lives nearby so i've climbed stoney when visiting from Colorado probably 5-6 times and this is one of my favorite spots (i've yet to see a guidebook).
The starting moves are pretty stout for v-2 and does this traverse go through the awkward beta-intensive moves that go 5-6 feet past the sculpture crack (past the bulge and blind reach)? If so i'd say 3+ at least for the entire traverse right to left.
Thoughts?
also- if anyone knows of a good so... more >>
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Location: CO : Spanish Peaks
By: germsauce When: May 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recently got some access to the private lands around the Breasts of the Earth and will be going up there for new route recon in two weeks. Hopefully I can find some stuff on the BLM /non-private land to develop for all.
Going up there with an open mind, lots of gear, and no drill. Hope to have something to report by end of May.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Practice Rock : Regular Route (5.11b)
By: germsauce When: Apr 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's a good one, for some reason we found this easier than the 10b flake next-door. It took fiddling with gear at the crux would love to get back and lead it clean. Here's what I remember placing (it was like 3 hours ago, but short term memory... you know how it goes):
-#2 BD to keep you off the deck at the first wide part.
- Something thin past that, maybe a blue Metolius or similar (if needed, it's not hard to the jug), then to the "jug" before it zags left,
-you can place a 0.75 ... more >>
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Location: Andy Novak : Desert : Photo
By: germsauce When: Apr 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: nice TR.
call me! byeeee!
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Funkdemental (5.11b)
By: germsauce When: Apr 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm still trying to figure out what move was supposed to be 5.11.... I'm no superman, but what's the opposite of sandbag?
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Location: International : New Zealand : South Island : Paynes Ford
By: germsauce When: Apr 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Paynes, and the next-door Hang-Dog camp is heaven on earth. simply put. emerald green swimming holes, cliff jumps, Tasty eels to catch in the rivers, Tui's and all manner of other kind of native amazing birds singing from dawn to dusk, oh and the climbing. Get ready for SLIMPERS on beautiful grey limestone. belay among the tree-ferns as you tick off beautiful, artistic gymnastic and technical roots that range from fully overhang 50 feet of the deck (1080 and the letter g) to techy bulge ... more >>
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