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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Gilligan's Island (AKA: The... : The Skipper Too (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This crack seemed easy for 5.8: its published rating; but may be on the hard side of 5.6, especially for those who haven't climbed cracks. The suggested double set of camalots is too much to carry up here for a 40' climb for all but the newest leaders. Because I don't have anything to add to it, I'll stay out of the discussion about the name (or lack thereof...) of this crack.
The anchor appeared to have chains and be just fine for rappelling- however, I downclimbed the next crack s... more >>
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil & Winter Wall : (11.3) The Trough (5.7)
By: George Perkins When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, Chris, you wanted to traverse right from your high-point (at least, that's how I went).
Basically you want to be climbing the crack system immediately left of Protein Supplement to stay on this route. Yes, it's bushy, and sometimes the rock is suspect. There is indeed a 2-bolt anchor, with tat attached to rings; it is on the left end of the grassy ledge above the Protein Supplement anchor, and wasn't visible until I was right at it. It would probab... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall
By: George Perkins When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Though the approach described above up the Olive Oil descent gully is no doubt faster, it's also reasonable to get to/from this wall using the 3rd class gully down to its right, from the Challenger Wall/Adventure Punks area.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Holthouse to Hell (5.11-)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Mike. You guys rock.
And thanks for sorting out which was the right line for Holthouse to Hell too. (I made some edits to the description to avoid confusion.)
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone West : Gemstone (5.8)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.8 leaders will probably want extra cams from thin hands to large hands sizes, and maybe a #4 camalot on p2.
The wide crack at the start of p1 might take a #6 camalot, but I'm not sure. If you wedge yourself way back in there, falling out probably won't happen, but it's certainly not graceful.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone West : Seamingly Hard (5.10b)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Marc.
I remember attempting, and backing off of, "Seamingly Hard" around 2003, thinking it would take more stones than I had, but I didn't remember any specifics about how many bolts were there back then and did not know more had been added when I led this climb last weekend. [I originally listed the climb as PG-13, as an average of my impressions, but with the new bolts, it's not so bad, so it makes sense that the route had changed, rather than my mindset.]
I'm sad to hear of the acci... more >>
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Wild Hogs Wall (and cliffs ... : Johnny Can't Lead (5.7+)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No problem, Steve, I moved the route over to this section, after talking with Jason we thought it fit a little better.
If you (or anyone else) has a better suggestion for a title for this section of Las Conchas.. on the meadow left of CC Wall, let me know.
Look forward to trying this new climb, sounds like a nice one.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : (29) Thorazine Dream (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For this specific climb, please do not remove the controversial bolt.
The first ascentionist (Tom MacFarlane) has provided his guidance. While he was not communicated with prior to the retro-bolting it is Tom's preference that no further destruction of the rock occur by removal of the additional bolt.
Feel free to skip the 3rd bolt, and/or place protection in the horizontal crack, if you want to climb Thorazine as it was originally established.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Clean Green Dream (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The discussions of bolts being added and chopped from this route, and the possibility of new bolts being added by the FA, has been moved to the Forum: Tres Piedras (NM) Bolts, Ethics, Access Discussion. They're open to hearing opinions on this, so share them there.
If we learn changes have occurred so this climb is no longer as described above, we'll make a note of it on this Route Description page here; until then, assume that the beta listed here is generally accurate.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall : (06) Pie In Your Eye (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Further complicating things, Rock Climbing: New Mexico lists a climb called 'Pie in Your Eye' as being in the location that Jason's photo and 'Jemez Rock' put 'Bovine Inspiration', and rates it 5.9. That book calls this line 'Unknown 4' and rates it 5.6.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Sep 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Somebody with no sense of irony recently bolted a "No Bolting" sign to this kiosk. This is not the policy of the Forest Service.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Chicken Heads (5.7)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For a while, there was a short-lived anchor 2/3 of the way up this climb, slightly to the left of the usual route at the level of the small tree. This was chopped recently, for better or worse, so plan on topping out and walking off, which is what everyone used to do anyway.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : (04) Garden Wall (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Most of the Cattle Call Wall sport climbs were all also bolted years after they had been climbed first, on TR if not on lead. Whether or not you or I approve of that from an ethical stance, it's now the most popular/crowded cliff in New Mexico in my estimation. 'The people' clearly appreciate having sport-bolted 5.6-5.8s at scenic Las Conchas; most of them don't know or don't care that someone climbed them w/out bolts back-in-the-day.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (06) The Dihedral Wall : (07) Quickdraw McGraw (5.11b/c)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are 2 "last bolts", one on each side of the arete. Use the right one and go to the anchor to the right if you're cleaning the route. Use the left one and go left to the anchor for Baba Louie if you're having a 2nd person follow through the draws.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (08) The Far Side I : (07) Midnight Rider (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree with DisturbingthePeace... the top crux felt difficult for the grade to me (w/out the crack). Though it seemed even harder to me when I first tried it 5 years ago compared to today, so I don't think anything was recently broken.
The good side of the 'crack-is-off eliminate' contrivance is this makes it a good climb to push your limit on, since you can use the crack if you get shut down.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (09) The Far Side II : (03) Patchwork (5.10c)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another vote for the boulder problem at the last bolt being kinda pointless.. (or maybe I was missing something). I think this climb is excellent otherwise, one of the best 10s at Palomas. I'd be happy to clip a new, lower anchor that shortens the climb by 10', and I'm glad to see the effort made to contact the FA first. Hopefully this will prevent the confusion/hard feelings that have happened -at Cochiti-, -at Diablo-, -at White Rock- and [[-at Las Conc... more >>
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Old New Place : (18) 4-Star Arete (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good alternate finish to the upper section is the arete to the right of the cracks for Unknown #17 which keeps it more sustained in difficulty.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Lower Grotto : ... : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty sure you're right, Scott [and you should know =) ]. I moved the photo and corrected the caption.
Great photo of a great climb.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Eagle Canyon : (14) Unnamed Middle (aka To... (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is an independent anchor for this climb, 4' up and right of the "Unnamed Left" anchor, which probably makes it a little bit easier to clean but it really doesn't make any difference which anchor you use.
I added the FA info to this route and "Unnamed Right", which someone told me, but wasn't 100% sure about it, so correct me if I'm wrong.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Eagle Canyon : (19) Racist Fantasy (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We replaced the disintegrating webbing anchor with links+biners, but chains would definitely be a further improvement.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Mexican Breakfast Formation : Tarantula (5.10b)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, John. It felt insecure compared to other 5.10b's in the Sandias, following what I was pretty sure Sandia Rock said was the easier way to go. Nice climb certainly.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon
By: George Perkins When: Aug 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rock at Comales looks like sandstone at first glance, but it's metamorphic- a light-colored schist or maybe quartzite- (with micas, mostly muscovite but some biotite, forming the layering). There aren't usually micas in unmetamorphosed sandstone, and the quartz and feldspar are recrystallized, which is why it's "bullet". If it was a sandstone before it was metamorphosed, then it's quartzite; but without seeing any original depositional features preserved, it's hard to tell from a... more >>
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Five Years After (5.9 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Got my subscription yesterday, was pretty pleased, thought the article was pretty good, did justice to TP and the Taos area, and it was nice to see the historical info on the region and the climbing history which isn't all that well-known. TP's not for everyone- the reputations vary from 'too slabby' to 'too easy' to 'too runout'- which is all sortof true and sortof not true- but if you get past those reasons, there's fun climbing to do here and I probably come up a couple of times/month. I'll a... more >>
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Five Years After (5.9 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5 Years After is featured on the cover of the current Sept issue of Climbing #278
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall
By: George Perkins When: Aug 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climb left of Grendal is a fairly new climb Josh put up this summer, probably in the lower 5.10 range. Sorry to hear about the loose bolts- that surprises me, and scares me a little bit.
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