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Rock Climbing Photo: I'm not a crusher; I just spray a lot.


Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact George Perkins

George Perkins
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Point Rank: # 163
Total Points: 3,369
Last Year: 210
Last 30 Days: 7
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has George Perkins been climbing?










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All 2920 | Routes 255 | Areas 23 | Photos 5 | Page Improvements 49 | Comments 302 | Posts 115 | Stars 1213 | Ratings 958
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : No Exit (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: Admittedly, I had written off "No Exit" as dumb for a while, but the crux boulder problem with the mono-to-mono move culminating with the throw at the end, is really fun and is out of character for White Rock. I'll agree that the lower half sucks when its dirty, and also agree it seems hard for the grade to me as well (harder than Face Off and the popular 12a's at BONP), though perhaps it's just not my style.

I think my beta for the crux clips is different. I clip the 2nd-to-last bolt from b... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : Y, The : Y - North Side : Open Book (5.9-)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 9, 2012

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Comments: This is one of the more varied and interesting entry-level cracks at the Y (or all of White Rock), I agree.

Many people seem to get frustrated with this climb, especially the start. Even though it's nominally rated only 5.8+, people with little experience on cracks seem to have troubles. (It might be a little tougher for short people, or those with smaller hands/fingers.) I guess that is what I was hinting at when I wrote the description.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : The Amphitheater : AMS (5.11b)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 29, 2011

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Comments: Other than Pogue's Arete, this is the most overhanging 5.11 I've climbed in NM.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Sardonic Smile (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 14, 2011

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Comments: Don't be too put off by the above description- dirty holds aren't too much of an issue (but maybe my standards are low or maybe it's seen recent traffic?). It's an aesthetic face, isn't contrivedly close to cracks, and isn't heinously sharp like many harder routes at WR. For these reasons, I think this is my favorite of those on the right side of this crag. I think the above beta may not be the best: I started left of the first bolt.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone East : Emerald City (5.9+)
By: George Perkins When: May 15, 2011

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Comments: FA info from Hill's guide:
Emerald Hiway (= Emerald Road?): Gillis-Rix, 6/85
Sapphire: Gillis-Rix, 6/85
Emerald City: Hicks-Lewis, '86
Revenge of the Elderly: Holcomb-Riley 5/87
Surf's Up: Leonard-Benyak, 5/88

Seems possible Emerald City was still unclimbed when you were on Emerald Road in '86, with that and Sapphire to its right being the only 2 established lines. (Emerald City being climbed later, sharing the 1st pitch with Emerald Road, with the 2nd pitch following a seam between the two rou... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : East Side, Big Enchilada : Huevos Verdes (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 4, 2011

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Comments: The 5.12b grade seems more accurate, without using the cracks, on this contrived climb.
Additional gear might not really be needed for most 5.11/5.12 climbers; it's about 30' of 5.7 to the first bolt.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : 5.8 Crack (5.8 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 28, 2011

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Comments: I didn't try to sell anyone on this climb.

I guess I meant: it has the feel of a climb harder than 5.8, and the pro at the crux is below you, small, or weird. Maybe it's the gear or the crumbly rock, but the crux section looks improbable and you stare at it for a while, then you actually commit to it, and it's not too bad. Just my impression. I'd say it's harder than Headwall Right Crack, or Cholla Crack, but easier than Holy Crack.

Was the stopper I ret... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Squeeze Chimney (5.8 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 22, 2011

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Comments: There are 2 crack climbs right of Bosker Boozeroos. Both of these cracks have sections of wide crack near their start.
The 1st crack just right of Boozeroos is an open book, about 5.8, not listed in the guides. This would be between #1 and #2 in the Jett/Samet topo below.
The 2nd crack to the right is the 5.10+ climb marked as "Squeeze Chimney 5.10+" in the guidebooks. It is a splitter slot-to-smaller-crack on the smooth face right of the corner. This crack angles left to the co... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Sewer Crag : Hey, Is There Anybody In Th... (5.11d PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 28, 2010

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Comments: Don't stay off this one just because you didn't bring gear. It's 15' of super easy choss to one ~5.8 move to clip the first bolt, but the rock is crumbly and you don't want to fall so tread carefully.

The rest of the climb is really good, with good rock, & quite steep for White Rock.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Way Beyond Zebra (5.11b)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 4, 2010

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Comments: If you continue to the 2nd anchor, you get a few more interesting moves, the guidebook says doing so is the difference between 11a and 11b. The rope drag when TRing/lowering off the high anchor is annoying though. My assumption is that the lower anchor was added after the climb was initially bolted to alleviate this, which resulted in the last bolt being quite close to the (lower) anchor.

I'd agree that stemming or using the crack to the right would make it less than 5.11.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Minotaur : The Megamahedral (5.11- PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 14, 2010

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Comments: We thought this climb was pretty good, definitely has its share of wide climbing but protectable enough with one or two big cams. The beta & topo in the new Supertopo guidebook seemed mostly right on.

I'm a little confused with the above description, seemed like we climbed something like:
P1: Start in sandy alcove, step right into wide crack, climb a right-facing corner to a bolted belay on a ledge for pitch 1 (180', 5.11-, some wideness);
P2: Right-facing corner with OW to hands ... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : The Pulpit (5.9 C1)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 14, 2010

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Comments: This climb is more like 120'. You need 2 ropes to descend (or 2 rappels using the intermediate anchor should work).

The books say this climb goes free at 5.11, but the bolts on the crux bolt ladder section at the start are mostly old/scary and the free line isn't right in line with them.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Out to Lunch (5.10b PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 22, 2010

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Comments: Thanks for the advice and info John. Sounds like I will have to try going straight up next time. (Both times I'd been on this, the crux was exciting enough we were looking for the easiest way up after.)


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Oct 14, 2010

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Comments: There is another new sport climb recently added to this wall, between #4 and #5 (not shown on the topo), and can be identified by its fixed chain draw. It's in the mid-5.12 range, in my hangdogging estimation.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : TWA Canyon : Alioth : Aerial Boundaries (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 8, 2010

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Comments: J., I'm a little confused by your comment. I don't know if you're talking about this route or an overall ethic. Maybe you've climbed this and have different impressions; but Jason and I thought that the pins look mostly good, it's a few of the bolts that would be candidates to replace with other bolts. (As I said above, I don't think they're "time-bombs" or anything though.) If you're suggesting to replace the fixed pins with bolts- that sounds like a lot of unnecessary work that would... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Fin : Exhibition Wall (5.10b PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 28, 2010

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Comments: This climb is one of the few short ones off the La Luz that's shaded in the afternoon, along with the longer Thumb routes on the face above the trail, if you're looking for one more pitch on a hot day.

One of the ring pins was loose when I climbed this last year, but they are close together and other gear is available.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Hole in the Wall : Another Pair of New Shoes (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 27, 2010

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Comments: The old "Hikers & Climbers Guide" may be mixed up with this climb. It lists it as 5.13a, and shows an independent bolted first pitch to this climb left of Ms. Piggy, which isn't there I think.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area : Bovine Inspiration (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 24, 2010

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Comments: There is an alternate 2-bolt variation start just to the right of the normal start of this climb that bypasses the first crux (making the route easier: 5.8?).

There is also a single bolt above the 2-bolt anchor, which one could use to set a TR or to drop down the few feet to the anchor to set a TR.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Ponderosa Bouldering
By: George Perkins When: Aug 11, 2010

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Comments: It's closed at the first gate as you start up the first hill on FS 269 (San Juan Rd.), within a couple hundred yards of turning off the paved road (290) and crossing the small stream.

I don't know the reasons behind this, or when/if it will reopen. (You may be able to hike in from the gate, or from the Pond, but maybe they don't want people hiking in either.)

No problem getting to the Pond (or Satellite).


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Ponderosa Bouldering
By: George Perkins When: Aug 8, 2010

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Comments: FS road 269 is currently gated (August 2010), with a sign that says "Closed for Resource Protection". This would make it a hassle to get to the Corral, Range, Booty Box, Sweat Box.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Ponderosa Bouldering : The Corral
By: George Perkins When: Aug 8, 2010

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Comments: FS road 269 is currently gated (August 2010), with a sign that says "Closed for Resource Protection".


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : TWA Canyon : Alioth : Aerial Boundaries (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 7, 2010

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Comments: The grade IV rating reflects the original rating, and the overall commitment- including the descent. One could easily suggest it's only a Grade III at 6 pitches, but grade IV by Sandia/desert standards seems fair to me. (I didn't feel like climbing anything else afterward...)

This climb felt comparable to Voodoo Child in difficulty for its technical crux, but this felt more "heads-up" and less straight-forward overall... and just as good.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Aug 1, 2010

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Comments: This topo (and the Taos Rock topo based on it) are for the most part very useful and accurate, and you should have no problems avoiding getting lost and off-route.
If you venture on most any climb other than "Question of Balance": One thing to be aware of is that the best places to belay, when using a 60m rope, are not always where shown.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Big Pine Wall : Pocket Rocket (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 31, 2010

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Comments: I thought the bolt placement and spacing wasn't too troublesome. The first crux is the weird part, seemed best to climb to the jug, then clip low, rather than clip high off something small. I'd certainly climb it again, it's a pretty good climb.


Location: NM : NMCRAG Meeting July 16th to...
By: George Perkins When: Jul 25, 2010

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Comments: Any news from, or about, this meeting? or the next step forward?
(A number of us in Los Alamos are concerned with this issue but unable to drive to ABQ for this meeting..)


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