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Rock Climbing Photo: I'm not a crusher; I just spray a lot.


Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
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George Perkins
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Point Rank: # 162
Total Points: 3,355
Last Year: 218
Last 30 Days: 5
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2882 | Routes 255 | Areas 23 | Photos 5 | Page Improvements 48 | Comments 291 | Posts 105 | Stars 1205 | Ratings 950
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Cholla Wall (5.10a/b PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 17, 2012

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Comments: Though I think more people should be open-minded to leading Cholla Wall because it is pretty proud/memorable, I was definitely intimidated prior to doing so. Here's the warnings:
  • Don't fall at the start (1st crux). It's a boulder problem before you get your first pro.
  • Don't fall at the top (2nd crux). I've heard of 2 big falls from up there, and the gear in the highest pocket is tricky and perhaps not fully trustworthy.
  • Don't try to onsight Cholla Wall if 5.10 is hard for you, or if you'r...
 more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45° Boulder : Beastmaster (5.12c)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 28, 2012

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Comments: I think the 4th bolt is in the ideal place if you clip it off the 1st jug after the crux; if it was much lower you would probably just clip it off the same holds used to clip the 3rd bolt, which is at waist level at that time and takes minimal effort. The best beta through this section is to do the crux move left first, bump the left to the jug, and clip off that, which seems reasonable once you get past thinking about the boulder behind you to the right. It's sort of tempting to try... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Techweeny Buttress : Crankenstein (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 23, 2012

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Comments: In April 2012, 3 bolts were 1/4" (one of them was the last bolt a few feet right of the anchor, which isn't as important as the others); the other 4 were bigger. I think the crux was protected by a more modern bolt, but don't remember for sure.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45° Boulder : Tendon Bendin' (5.12b/c)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 8, 2012

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Comments: This climb's a tougher version of Crimp Chimp, steep and relentless with no distinct crux. Despite a scary 2nd clip off the smallest hold on the climb (consider stick-clipping this), and a demoralizing finish due to the difficulty of clipping the chains while pumped, this climb is great if you enjoy steep climbing. I'm not sure its much more tweaky or painful than other mid/upper-5.12s at the Dungeon.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45° Boulder : Crimp Chimp (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 13, 2012

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Comments: Stickclip bolt 2 if 12a is hard for you, especially if you don't have the beta dialed. The technical crux (just before bolt 2) appears to be somewhat height/reach-dependent, and the 2nd clip can be dicey sometimes. Angle right after clipping the 3rd bolt to stay on Crimp Chimp, which starts what is generally the redpoint crux. Although most find it a bit more difficult than the other popular 12-'s, Against Nature and Moat Jump, strong people who regularly climb steep stuff ma... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Gangland (5.12b)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 29, 2012

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Comments: 2 useful holds were recently broken off at the upper (slab) crux at the 2nd-to-last bolt, making the climb somewhat harder (edited 9/2014, as a 2nd hold just broke recently)

Other beta:
This is another one at the Dungeon on which you don't want to blow it before clipping the 2nd bolt, and it's fairly sequency to get there, so one may want to stick-clip b2 if you don't feel confident up to that point.

The 1st crux clip (b4) is considerably easier if a draw (long is better) is already hanging.

... more >>


Location: Colorado : Diamond : Post : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments: Great photo of us!!!!

I am unknown green guy. My partner, unknown red guy, is Lee H.from Colo. Spgs.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ...
By: George Perkins When: Jun 10, 2012

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Comments: The road was not gated or blocked coming from the north yesterday.


Location: NM : Taos Area : John Dunn Bridge Area : The New New Buffalo
By: George Perkins When: May 18, 2012

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Comments: Jay Foley's Mountain Skills Guide's webpage has more beta on this area:
climbingschoolusa.com/newroute...


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Photo
By: George Perkins When: May 18, 2012

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Comments: Info for Amole can be found on Jay Foley's Mountain Skills Guide's webpage:
climbingschoolusa.com/newroute...


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon
By: George Perkins When: May 18, 2012

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Comments: Info on many of the new routes in Comales Canyon is listed on Jay Foley's Mountain Skills Guide's webpage:
climbingschoolusa.com/newroute...


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Water Wall and Lower Areas : Gothic Pillar (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: May 18, 2012

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Comments: Has this climb been bolted as a sport climb?
(I received an email asking that question, but I haven't been to Comales recently.)


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Voyage of the Beagle (5.11b/c) : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Apr 21, 2012

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Comments: Hi Amy, Nice photos! I'm unknown guy in green. I was climbing with Chris from Los Alamos (unknown guy in red). Sorry we missed you.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Texas Canyon : Texas Tower
By: George Perkins When: Mar 15, 2012

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Comments: The available descent info on Texas Tower is a bit vague, or the descent is not obvious. Perhaps that adds to the experience.

When Josh S. and I climbed this in 4/09, we missed the 2nd rap station, left our own gear somewhere on the east face, but 1 rap later eventually joined up with the bolted anchors of the East Face route.

I thought maybe we were just chumps, but it looks like we weren't the only ones to get confused on the rappels, as I saw Kalous and Thesenga's trip report: ttp://www.t... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : No Exit (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: Admittedly, I had written off "No Exit" as dumb for a while, but the crux boulder problem with the mono-to-mono move culminating with the throw at the end, is really fun and is out of character for White Rock. I'll agree that the lower half sucks when its dirty, and also agree it seems hard for the grade to me as well (harder than Face Off and the popular 12a's at BONP), though perhaps it's just not my style.

I think my beta for the crux clips is different. I clip the 2nd-to-last bolt from b... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : Y, The : Y - North Side : Open Book (5.9-)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 9, 2012

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Comments: This is one of the more varied and interesting entry-level cracks at the Y (or all of White Rock), I agree.

Many people seem to get frustrated with this climb, especially the start. Even though it's nominally rated only 5.8+, people with little experience on cracks seem to have troubles. (It might be a little tougher for short people, or those with smaller hands/fingers.) I guess that is what I was hinting at when I wrote the description.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : The Amphitheater : AMS (5.11b)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 29, 2011

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Comments: Other than Pogue's Arete, this is the most overhanging 5.11 I've climbed in NM.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Sardonic Smile (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 14, 2011

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Comments: Don't be too put off by the above description- dirty holds aren't too much of an issue (but maybe my standards are low or maybe it's seen recent traffic?). It's an aesthetic face, isn't contrivedly close to cracks, and isn't heinously sharp like many harder routes at WR. For these reasons, I think this is my favorite of those on the right side of this crag. I think the above beta may not be the best: I started left of the first bolt.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone East : Emerald City (5.9+)
By: George Perkins When: May 15, 2011

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Comments: FA info from Hill's guide:
Emerald Hiway (= Emerald Road?): Gillis-Rix, 6/85
Sapphire: Gillis-Rix, 6/85
Emerald City: Hicks-Lewis, '86
Revenge of the Elderly: Holcomb-Riley 5/87
Surf's Up: Leonard-Benyak, 5/88

Seems possible Emerald City was still unclimbed when you were on Emerald Road in '86, with that and Sapphire to its right being the only 2 established lines. (Emerald City being climbed later, sharing the 1st pitch with Emerald Road, with the 2nd pitch following a seam between the two rou... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : East Side, Big Enchilada : Huevos Verdes (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 4, 2011

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Comments: The 5.12b grade seems more accurate, without using the cracks, on this contrived climb.
Additional gear might not really be needed for most 5.11/5.12 climbers; it's about 30' of 5.7 to the first bolt.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : 5.8 Crack (5.8 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 28, 2011

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Comments: I didn't try to sell anyone on this climb.

I guess I meant: it has the feel of a climb harder than 5.8, and the pro at the crux is below you, small, or weird. Maybe it's the gear or the crumbly rock, but the crux section looks improbable and you stare at it for a while, then you actually commit to it, and it's not too bad. Just my impression. I'd say it's harder than Headwall Right Crack, or Cholla Crack, but easier than Holy Crack.

Was the stopper I ret... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Squeeze Chimney (5.8 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 22, 2011

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Comments: There are 2 crack climbs right of Bosker Boozeroos. Both of these cracks have sections of wide crack near their start.
The 1st crack just right of Boozeroos is an open book, about 5.8, not listed in the guides. This would be between #1 and #2 in the Jett/Samet topo below.
The 2nd crack to the right is the 5.10+ climb marked as "Squeeze Chimney 5.10+" in the guidebooks. It is a splitter slot-to-smaller-crack on the smooth face right of the corner. This crack angles left to the co... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Sewer Crag : Hey, Is There Anybody In Th... (5.11d PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 28, 2010

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Comments: Don't stay off this one just because you didn't bring gear. It's 15' of super easy choss to one ~5.8 move to clip the first bolt, but the rock is crumbly and you don't want to fall so tread carefully.

The rest of the climb is really good, with good rock, & quite steep for White Rock.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Way Beyond Zebra (5.11b)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 4, 2010

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Comments: If you continue to the 2nd anchor, you get a few more interesting moves, the guidebook says doing so is the difference between 11a and 11b (I'm not sure it's a letter grade worth, but it is of course harder to continue). If you stop at the first anchor the crux might be clipping the chains. The rope drag when TRing/lowering off the high anchor is annoying though. My assumption is that the lower anchor was added after the climb was initially bolted to alleviate this, which resulted in the last ... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Minotaur : The Megamahedral (5.11- PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 14, 2010

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Comments: We thought this climb was pretty good, definitely has its share of wide climbing but protectable enough with one or two big cams. The beta & topo in the new Supertopo guidebook seemed mostly right on.

I'm a little confused with the above description, seemed like we climbed something like:
P1: Start in sandy alcove, step right into wide crack, climb a right-facing corner to a bolted belay on a ledge for pitch 1 (180', 5.11-, some wideness);
P2: Right-facing corner with OW to hands ... more >>


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