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Rock Climbing Photo: I'm not a crusher; I just spray a lot.


Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 17 hours ago
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George Perkins
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Point Rank: # 166
Total Points: 3,371
Last Year: 174
Last 30 Days: 4
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2940 | Routes 255 | Areas 23 | Photos 5 | Page Improvements 50 | Comments 301 | Posts 113 | Stars 1224 | Ratings 969
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
By: George Perkins When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments:
Stuart Turner wrote:
What's up with Holthouse Hallsack?
I climbed most of "Holthouse Hallsack" recently, it is pretty good. Look for fixed pins and a small right facing corner to the right of "Holthouse to Hell Direct" and about 10' to the right of a bolted line ("Bolts to Nowhere"'s direct start, called "In Step"); this is all left of "Dirty Black Nightmare". The start is down and left of the first fixed pin and looks harder than it is. A #0.4 or #0.5 cam in an o... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone West : ... : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: Gary: There aren't any new bolted anchors on Yataghan. Thanks for the stories, hope you'll add more.


Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : East Side
By: George Perkins When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: When the river is low, the East Side is best approached as you would for the West Side. Park at the trailhead, walk through the campground, then cross the river.

When the river is high, you probably can't easily/safely cross the river. So use the East Side approach trail. It starts from the back right side of the gravel pit. We parked there without any issues.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone West : Seamingly Hard (5.10b)
By: George Perkins When: May 15, 2015

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Comments: There was an accident and rescue on the climb ca. 2009. 2 or 3 additional bolts were added after that occurred. The new bolts sort of also protected the R/X/TR climb to the right of p1 called Drunken Master, and it was suggested that the "new climb" be called "Seamingly Drunk". It's possible that the line that most people will climb now may not be 100% true to the original "Seamingly Hard" line.

Mick may have got this info on the new bolts from me, as I sent him some notes on fixed gear and ... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Yataghan : Southeast Face (5.7)
By: George Perkins When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: Reed, the ring pin on the last pitch is stamped with your initials (RC), so it is probably yours (and has been there 55 years).


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Water Stains (5.8 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: Unlike most of the other "moderates" more than 2 pitches long in the Sandias, Water Stains has wonderful rock quality throughout and none of the bushes or choss pitches that are ubiquitous on most other comparable routes here. Worthy of more traffic, but unlikely to see it because it is runout in sections and because of the extra effort required to approach it.

3rd edition of Hill's Sandia guide seems to be marked correctly, it doesn't have the mistake mentioned above.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil Wall
By: George Perkins When: May 10, 2015

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Comments: A 5.10 climber looking to get way up high might consider climbing partial link-ups of these routes, like:
-the first pitch of Sun Devil (5.9) then the 2nd pitch of Seventh Sun (5.10)
-the first pitch of Heat Seeker (5.9), then the next 2 of Suntoucher (5.10, 5.10)


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil Wall : Sun Devil Crack (5.9 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: May 10, 2015

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Comments: Some (2?) new bolts protect the wider section on the last pitch.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: George Perkins When: Apr 19, 2015

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Comments: The road has reopened. It's in pretty good shape, even likely passable for a motivated driver with low-clearance 2wd (but bring a vehicle with clearance if you have a choice).


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Right (West Side) : Venarete (5.12b)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 19, 2015

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Comments: I found the start up to and past the 2nd bolt to be reasonable. I didn't notice any mandatory holds disintegrating.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Subdivisions : Los Huevos
By: George Perkins When: Apr 5, 2015

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Comments: Some climbs are missing from the list here.
There is a climb between Puerto de Luna and Pumping Huevos, coming out of the shallow cave.
There is a red tagged climb on the left side, and anchors for another route (not bolted yet) left of that.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Subdivisions : Los Huevos : La Parkita (5.12d)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 5, 2015

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Comments: A really useful hold broke at the crux, might be harder now.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Devil's Golf Ball : Regular Route (5.9 C1)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: This goes mostly free at "5.10+ A0/C1" (whatever a bolt ladder is). A drilled angle protects the moves into the finger crack at the start. It is all well-protected 5.10+/11- free climbing until the 2nd or 3rd pin in the bolt ladder, where it becomes well-protected aid/5.12 climbing. You don't need any aid gear, standing in and pulling on slings worked ok.

Cool summit and rad rappel!


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains
By: George Perkins When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: I've heard of people seeking out beta for a traverse of the Organ Mtns. These links may help, as will contacting local climbers. Looks exhausting.
publications.americanalpineclu...
aac-publications.s3.amazonaws....


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Tooth : Tooth Fairy (5.10-)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: This climb appears to have been cleaned up/modernized recently:
  • The bolts on the 5.10+ var. start were replaced with modern bolts.
  • 2 additional 2-bolt anchors were installed (just right of the tree before the slab traverse, where Extraction goes right; and at a stance 1/2-way up the last pitch). These allow for a rappel descent with a single 60 or 70m rope using only nice bolted anchors. Not trees, not single bolts, nothing sketchy, though there may be little to spare on some rappe...
 more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Tooth
By: George Perkins When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: 2 new sets of bolted anchors were added recently.

The best descent from the Tooth is 5 rappels down Tooth Fairy with (1) 70m rope or 60m rope. A 60m rope will be a rope-stretcher on some rappels. Compared to having 2 shorter ropes, using a single rope is less weight on the burly approach and is less likely to get snagged on trees and around blocks.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Jan 31, 2015

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Comments: This looks like South Rock's north side. Great photo of a beautiful climbing spot.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Neanderthal (5.12b)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: Neanderthal's 5.11 upper thin face headwall is similar in difficulty and scariness to the upper parts of the 2 climbs to its left (Cromagnon, and, to a lesser extent, Lucy). As with Cromagnon, it's well-bolted but there's a lot of rope out by then, and it's hard for the belayer to see what's happening because of the overhang.
At least 1 helpful hold broke in spring 2015 after I was done working on it, making the crux a little harder when I tried it 1 year later.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : SOL Man (aka Not In the End... (5.10+)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: edited: One of my 70m ropes didn't reach, I had to untie & downclimb from the 1st bolt (not that big of a deal). But my other 70m rope did reach. Be careful. [and it sounds like my short 70m rope isn't really 70m.]


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Coffee Shop (aka Quickstop) : Route 2 (5.8-)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 24, 2014

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Comments: Awkward and physical at its wide-crack start, I'd suggest it would be frustrating for beginners. Should protect ok with a standard rack to 4".


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Chicken Chop Suey (5.9+ R)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: This has to be one of the longest, and most sustained wide cracks in the Sandias.

The wide pitches protect adequately with 2 ea. cams from #4-#6; the crux section is #6-sized. A bold leader with considerable experience on 5.9+ OW might be okay with 1 of each size cam and thoughtful back-cleaning.

We did 4 pitches to the grassy 'bivi ledge', as the books suggest, which seemed to make sense to us (this is listed as 3 pitches above); belaying at the bolted a... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: George Perkins When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: Francisco, on which routes are the anchors "questionable"? (I had one surprise out here, pulled a glue in out with no effort). The rock at Capulin is (at best) generally softer than at most other New Mexico areas, and is sometimes really crumbly. The reason some threads are showing is likely because of (a) bumps in the wall behind so the hanger can't lie as close to the wall, or (b) bolt/sleeve not tightening down as readily, due to soft rock. It's not ideal, but bolts might sometimes be clos... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Meltdown (5.12c)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: Fun climb. If one is willing to deviate off the bolt line, it can be made easier.
-It's possible to avoid the crux (or do an easier version of it) after clipping the last bolt by moving left rather than climbing straight up to the anchor.
-Good rests (kneebars & jugs) can be found around bolt 3 by moving right to or almost to the chossy wide crack.


Location: CO : The Wet Mountains : Oak Creek Canyon
By: George Perkins When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: The link to the online guide referenced above no longer works.

(Edit: To those who sent me a copy or offered to- THANKS!)


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Cobbles of Ill Repute (5.10)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: The tag at the bottom is labelled correctly as "Cobbles of Ill Repute", and the anchor has lowering biners, as of sometime recently.
(I also liked it better on my 2nd time on it, and found it harder & cleaner than I remembered.)


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