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Rock Climbing Photo: I'm not a crusher; I just spray a lot.


Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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George Perkins
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Point Rank: # 162
Total Points: 3,354
Last Year: 217
Last 30 Days: 4
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2875 | Routes 255 | Areas 23 | Photos 5 | Page Improvements 48 | Comments 290 | Posts 105 | Stars 1202 | Ratings 947
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Subdivisions : Los Huevos : La Parkita (5.12d)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 5, 2015

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Comments: A really useful hold broke at the crux, might be harder now.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Devil's Golf Ball : Regular Route (5.9 C1)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: This goes mostly free at "5.10+ A0/C1" (whatever a bolt ladder is). A drilled angle protects the moves into the finger crack at the start. It is all well-protected 5.10+/11- free climbing until the 2nd or 3rd pin in the bolt ladder, where it becomes well-protected aid/5.12 climbing. You don't need any aid gear, standing in and pulling on slings worked ok.

Cool summit and rad rappel!


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains
By: George Perkins When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: I've heard of people seeking out beta for a traverse of the Organ Mtns. These links may help, as will contacting local climbers. Looks exhausting.
publications.americanalpineclu...
aac-publications.s3.amazonaws....


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Tooth : Tooth Fairy (5.10-)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: This climb appears to have been cleaned up/modernized recently:
  • The bolts on the 5.10+ var. start were replaced with modern bolts.
  • 2 additional 2-bolt anchors were installed (just right of the tree before the slab traverse, where Extraction goes right; and at a stance 1/2-way up the last pitch). These allow for a rappel descent with a single 60 or 70m rope using only nice bolted anchors. Not trees, not single bolts, nothing sketchy, though there may be little to spare on some rappe...
 more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Tooth
By: George Perkins When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: 2 new sets of bolted anchors were added recently.

The best descent from the Tooth is 5 rappels down Tooth Fairy with (1) 70m rope or 60m rope. A 60m rope will be a rope-stretcher on some rappels. Compared to having 2 shorter ropes, using a single rope is less weight on the burly approach and is less likely to get snagged on trees and around blocks.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Jan 31, 2015

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Comments: This looks like South Rock's north side. Great photo of a beautiful climbing spot.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Neanderthal (5.12b)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: Neanderthal's 5.11 upper thin face headwall is similar in difficulty and scariness to the upper parts of the 2 climbs to its left (Cromagnon, and, to a lesser extent, Lucy). As with Cromagnon, it's well-bolted but there's a lot of rope out by then, and it's hard for the belayer to see what's happening because of the overhang.
At least 1 helpful hold broke in spring 2015 after I was done working on it, making the crux a little harder when I tried it 1 year later.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : SOL Man (aka Not In the End... (5.10+)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: edited: One of my 70m ropes didn't reach, I had to untie & downclimb from the 1st bolt (not that big of a deal). But my other 70m rope did reach. Be careful. [and it sounds like my short 70m rope isn't really 70m.]


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Coffee Shop (aka Quickstop) : Route 2 (5.8-)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 24, 2014

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Comments: Awkward and physical at its wide-crack start, I'd suggest it would be frustrating for beginners. Should protect ok with a standard rack to 4".


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Chicken Chop Suey (5.9+ R)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: This has to be one of the longest, and most sustained wide cracks in the Sandias.

The wide pitches protect adequately with 2 ea. cams from #4-#6; the crux section is #6-sized. A bold leader with considerable experience on 5.9+ OW might be okay with 1 of each size cam and thoughtful back-cleaning.

We did 4 pitches to the grassy 'bivi ledge', as the books suggest, which seemed to make sense to us (this is listed as 3 pitches above); belaying at the bolted a... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: George Perkins When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: Francisco, on which routes are the anchors "questionable"? (I had one surprise out here, pulled a glue in out with no effort). The rock at Capulin is (at best) generally softer than at most other New Mexico areas, and is sometimes really crumbly. The reason some threads are showing is likely because of (a) bumps in the wall behind so the hanger can't lie as close to the wall, or (b) bolt/sleeve not tightening down as readily, due to soft rock. It's not ideal, but bolts might sometimes be clos... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Meltdown (5.12c)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: Fun climb. If one is willing to deviate off the bolt line, it can be made easier.
-It's possible to avoid the crux (or do an easier version of it) after clipping the last bolt by moving left rather than climbing straight up to the anchor.
-Good rests (kneebars & jugs) can be found around bolt 3 by moving right to or almost to the chossy wide crack.


Location: CO : The Wet Mountains : Oak Creek Canyon
By: George Perkins When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: The link to the online guide referenced above no longer works.

(Edit: To those who sent me a copy or offered to- THANKS!)


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Cobbles of Ill Repute (5.10)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: The tag at the bottom is labelled correctly as "Cobbles of Ill Repute", and the anchor has lowering biners, as of sometime recently.
(I also liked it better on my 2nd time on it, and found it harder & cleaner than I remembered.)


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Goiter Grabber (5.10d)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: The tag at the bottom is correctly labeled "Goiter Grabber", as of sometime recently.

There is a new climb, 10+ "Bloody Turnip", to the left of "Goiter Grabber", between it and the 5.9.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Aug 29, 2014

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Comments: The formation in center is called "The Castle" and is just north of Muralla Grande. Info on 4 routes on it is in the old Hill book.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Techtonics (5.11+ R)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 13, 2014

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Comments: Protects reasonably but some air time is possible if you fall in the wrong places. Bolts protect the majority of the climb. I clipped Techweenie's 1st bolt, and placed a small-med stopper (#7 HB offset?) after bolt 3 but otherwise just clipped bolts. I did run it out at the top but it's after the hard climbing is done (a mid-size cam would be ok there too). Very good climb, like Techweenie.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Evil Alchemist (5.13a)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: 6 bolts (5 if stick-clipping b2 or skipping the first- shared with Siege Warfare- to minimize drag).
With good beta, including 2 knee bars, I found this was more doable than Beastmaster (12c/d) but harder than Siege Warfare (12c/d). More than 1 way to do the crux, so don't get discouraged.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Question of Balance (5.11- PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 15, 2014

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Comments: The 1st bolt on p3 was replaced and is new. Thanks. The 2nd is still old, but unlikely to be fallen on hard.

There is not a bolt on the "normal way" for p1 (as described above). The fixed gear on this pitch, if done the normal way, is: 3 pins just before and turning the crux bulge/roof, then another fixed pin just before the belay.

It is apparently possible to roll over left to a bolt then face climb up (rather than turning the crux bulge). This is the "original 1st pitch", shown on the [[or... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Flake Out (5.11a)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: Even though the 5th bolt has no hanger currently- it's nothing to worry about. The climbing there is easy and the bolt below is still close. Guessing someone will replace it soon anyway, but don't avoid this climb in the interim. If you can climb the start, the missing bolt won't bother you.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Vista Verde Crag
By: George Perkins When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: There are a few additional climbs on a small cliff adjacent to the road about 100 yards to the south of the Vista Verde trailhead (the normal Bat Cave parking). They look to be easy/moderate. Anyone have more info on these?


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : La Vista : Raven Steals the Sun (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: May 18, 2014

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Comments: Rad climb! The only other one with 3 pitches 11c/harder in the Sandias I can think of is "Promised Land" (which I haven't tried and probably won't). Are there others I'm forgetting? This topo posted by the FA has more detail than the book does, and might help avoid confusion.

When the FA (above comment) says they "touched up the first pitch", that means they removed the 2 pins that previously protected the crux (there are still the lower 3, but the original topo shows 5). There ... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Main Wall : Renaissance Man (5.12-)
By: George Perkins When: May 15, 2014

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Comments: Here's my take on the routes/extensions that begin with the left bolted crack start, Renaissance/ Lower Rosie (5.10-, 6 bolts):

After reaching the anchor at 40', there are 4 extensions (from L->R)
-A new bolted extension heads up and left to an independent anchor, haven't tried it, don't know more details
-Whole Lotta Rosie (5.11+): follows the left crack all the way up to a high anchor(bring gear for this, plus the 6 lower bolts).
-Renaissance Man (5.12-): follows the left crack a ways (b... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Techweeny Buttress
By: George Perkins When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: As you walk right from Crankenstein:
The first climb on the face just right, with an obvious low old bolt is "Fear of Flying" described in the old Hill book, 5.8A4 (in 1981, anyway, who knows what a modern rating is).
To the right of that is a chossy-looking chimney (5.9+ in old Hill book).
Right of that is a newer bolted 2-pitch M.Beverly line I think he told me was called "Masterblaster". I've heard it's good but haven't climbed it.
I'm not sure where the 2 climbs D.Milford mentions that start... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Hidden Tower : Out of Sight (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: -This climb has a lower anchor and an extension that rolls left around the arete yet again. My partner and I thought 11c (slightly easier than the 4 climbs to the left), but we only climbed to the first anchor. Maybe the extension around the corner left raises it to 12 (didn't try it), or maybe we're uncalibrated sandbaggers.
-Stick clip the high first bolt or bring a large nut or thin hands-size cam for the start.
-Kind of hard to read this one, as far as when and where to step left.


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