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Rock Climbing Photo: I'm not a crusher; I just spray a lot.


Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact George Perkins

George Perkins
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Point Rank: # 163
Total Points: 3,369
Last Year: 210
Last 30 Days: 7
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has George Perkins been climbing?










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All 2920 | Routes 255 | Areas 23 | Photos 5 | Page Improvements 49 | Comments 302 | Posts 115 | Stars 1213 | Ratings 958
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains
By: George Perkins When: Jan 13, 2016

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Comments: RE: approach times in the Sandias.
Approaches are usually 30 min- 1hr, if you don't get lost. (Except for the Needle and the Shield- those are more like 1.5hrs- 2 hrs, if you don't get lost.)
Early April is typically a bit early in the season. (edit 4/2016) But this year, it ought to be ok, I've climbed in the Sandias a couple of times already this year.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall
By: George Perkins When: Jan 8, 2016

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Comments: [EDIT 1/19/2016: Please! Be careful and doublecheck everything! Less than 2 weeks after I posted this, (I had best intentions that some tips might help people), a climber fell from the top of one of these routes. I do not know the details of what happened and if I did I probably wouldn't post them here. I do know that I, and others, have witnessed considerable confusion at this wall over the last 15 years, so I had thought posting some advice might help. If there are things people can share ... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Highway to Hell (5.8 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 2, 2016

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Comments: This was the chossiest, sketchiest climb I've done at Diablo, and possibly all of New Mexico. I can't remember the last time I was this freaked out on 5.8. A number of the Hellboy bolts are within reach and could be clipped if you get too scared (and don't have a reputation to maintain). Don't even consider it, if other people are milling around at the base of Post Moderate or others nearby.

Can descend with a single 60m rope in 2 raps, using the Hellboy midway anchor.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Lucy (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 2, 2016

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Comments: Most consider "Lucy" a little easier than the right branch (Cro-Magnon), despite the runout. Cro-Magnon doesn't have a scary runout. However, a finger-size cam (#0.3 BD) fits nicely in Lucy's runout section between bolts 9 & 10, if you're spooked by 5.7 that you really don't want to fall on. Still, both variations are a little bit headier than usual for sport climbs, because of their length and because the belayer can't see you on the high vert face.

In recent months, a block broke ar... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Witchcraft and Widgetry (5.13- PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 12, 2015

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Comments: Way to go Eric!! One of the best and most obvious lines at Capulin for sure! A few of us have pretended to climb this over the last 5 years, not one of us was close, but we knew it was all there and did all the moves (Josh having done it more respectably than anyone else, we both tried it at least 2-3 times). We thought the roof might need a bolt but that's even better that it doesn't. Small fingers and good flexibility will help on the stemming up the first half, but a good span may help on the... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Touchstone Wall (5.9 C2)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: For a typical 5.9-5.11 leader, I think Touchstone is best viewed as a 2-3 pitch aid climb, followed by a 5-6 pitch free climb. The last 4-5 pitches will go much more easily if you're in free climbing mode and can free 5.9 and 5.10 cracks. (If 5.10 is hard for you, the short section of 5.10b on the 7th pitch can be dealt with easily by pulling on gear for 1-2 moves). On their own, the last 5 pitches would be considered a classic Zion 5.10.

In particular: Pitch 4 (5.10) and Pitch 3 (5.11) ar... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground : Unrelenting Nines (5.11c/d)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 9, 2015

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Comments: Climbed Unrelenting Nines again last week. The missing hanger on the right anchor bolt was replaced, but this bolt is loose and should not be fully trusted. As a back-up to the left bolt, it's probably ok. Considering the contentiousness of bolts at White Rock trad areas, maybe it shouldn't be replaced out of courtesy to the values of the a few long-time local WR climbers, maybe it should since a majority appreciate them, I don't know.. If anyone is going to fix things, my suggestion is to put... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Tooth : ... : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Oct 21, 2015

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Comments: I've been on TrC 3 times, and each time was always very impressed with the idea that the FA team had "just gone for it" out onto that beautiful blank-looking slab and put the 4 bolts in on lead from stances on what is perhaps the most notorious pitch in the Organs. Can't say I blame them, but it's interesting to see that the FA team used a different (less insane, smarter) strategy to get past this intimidating pitch-- toproping much of the pitch, but with increasingly big swing potential, off g... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Left (East Side) : Bush in a Blender (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 17, 2015

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Comments: From the last bolt, you can finish straight up to a bolted anchor (won't be visible until you're there), or go up and right to a different bolted anchor above the crack to the right.


Location: CO : Durango : Golf Wall : Right Side : In The Rough (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 13, 2015

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Comments: The 5.11 with the runout is called "Fairway Direct" in the older "Rock Climbing Colorado" book. This book calls the 5.10 to its left "In the Rough".


Location: CO : Durango : Golf Wall : Right Side : Teed Off (5.10c/d)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 13, 2015

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Comments: This climb (the 5.10 on the right side) is called "In the Rough" in the older Rock Climbing: Colorado book.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : West Rock : Alien (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: The anchor bolts are larger than 1/4".


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : The Balcony : Mister Bigglesworth (5.10a)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: Those bolts are larger than 1/4", but yes, they may not inspire confidence depending on what you're used to.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Old New Place : Songs of Love (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 7, 2015

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Comments: I'd climbed a line (on lead, but with basically no pro) like this (just right of #20) a few years back, but I'll admit I maybe traversed in a bit too high for it to count, not worthy of any credit.

As I was digging through the old stuff on the webs, it occurs that this might be a '97 Takeda-Laeser-Torres-Fitzgibbon climb "Jump Chump" (not sure if TR or lead)- this seems like one section of cliff at ONP that fits for it.
12/26-30/97 New Routes at the Old New Place, New New Place
First... more >>


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon
By: George Perkins When: Oct 5, 2015

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Comments: The water faucet near the camping area is off. La Garita store is closest, but you need to get there when it's open.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : WatchTower : Watchman's Secret (5.12a PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: Fun climb. Some notes and pitch-by-pitch ratings to go with the above:
P1: (5.10) Bolts plus supplemental gear. This pitch, or Excalibur's p1 (5.9+), could be used as a start to either route. Both are good; Excalibur is more direct but less interesting, the Watchman's Secret start is harder.
P2: (5.12-) Aim to climb into the L-facing corner you rapped down. It should be obvious, but after the 2nd bolt, don't get lured farther... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : WatchTower : Watchman's Secret, Variatio... (5.11d PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 26, 2015

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Comments: I don't know who bolted this variation, but Will V. and I climbed Watchmans Secret today (great route!), and this variation to the 2nd pitch is well off to the right. To us, it seemed like this variation doesn't interfere with or affect the climbing on the original version, isn't squeezed, and it didn't cause us any confusion when trying the original line.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Loose Cannon (5.13b)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 24, 2015

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Comments: I've been falling onto Loose Cannon's crux bolt all summer long without any unclipping or carabiner breaking events, and I haven't heard of any such events from other Dungeon regulars (there hasn't been a chain draw for at least the last 7 years, and most of the time since 2002). If you prehang draws (best done by climbing Gangland to the Loose Cannon finish), you could put a locker on this bolt.

It is somewhat annoying to clean when you can't do the crux move (the easiest way is to climb Gang... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Old New Place : Route 17 (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 31, 2015

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Comments: I climbed this again, and didn't notice the missing flake as making it that much harder, and maybe a little better. However, I have always felt this was a hard 5.9, especially on lead. A large brassie is pretty crucial gear at the crux.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area
By: George Perkins When: Aug 26, 2015

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Comments: There are no climbs of that quality and steepness here.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Lawyers, Guns & Money (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 22, 2015

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Comments: The FA info on this route was not included in either the Hill or Schein Sandia guidebooks; I've updated with the info you provided. Most of the time, FA info was not omitted deliberately.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : India (5.8)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: Hi Rich, thanks for your kind words; it was a fun adventure. I'd recommend it, but the truth is anything else on this side of the Crestones is probably just as good. When we (me and Josh- who posted this climb) climbed India, we didn't see any hardware or signs of anything else on the buttress itself (or the steep next buttress to its right). However, see the notes below. Along with the Roach 14er book, I've found Bueler's "Roof of the Rockies" to be the most detailed resource for info... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Fowl Play (5.10 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: Re: "There Is a River" (Hicks/Thomas 1988)
It's rated 5.9 in Hill's book, with a vague description ("crack system on the face right of Aviary Ort, then up through vegetation to the top", not any more specific).
I emailed Gary Hicks and asked about "There Is A River", as my buddy Josh put up "Fowl Play" and I knew he'd be interested if it had been climbed previously.
We learned "There Is A River" climbs a crack just right of Aviary Ort. The 1st pitch goes up a fairly vertical licheny crack. It p... more >>


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Cryin' in the Rain (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: For a TP 5.9, this climb passes into some unlikely terrain and has some adventure to it.

Regarding the various finishes, after you gain the obvious left-trending ramp ledge 60' up, it looks like there are 3 options (R->L, in the order you reach them as you continue up and left).
a) the flake to bolt, shared with the top of Holthouse in a Haulbag, this is what's described in the current guidebook, option (2) above, best for rope drag, might feel harder than 5.9
b) slab to a newer bo... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Techweeny Buttress : Crankenstein (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 8, 2015

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Comments: Patrick, I'm sorry if I sandbagged you when I posted the route descriptions & ratings after I climbed this and the climb to its left a few years ago. I posted the 11a rating from the book. They felt hard for the grade to me as well, but I had good reasons why I wouldn't be climbing at my best that day and clipping old bolts doesn't make me more confident. I haven't yet gotten back to Techweenie Buttress, but I did think these were worth repeating.

Think I'll switch it to the less specific "5.1... more >>


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