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Rock Climbing Photo: I'm not a crusher; I just spray a lot.


Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 45 mins ago
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George Perkins
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Point Rank: # 162
Total Points: 3,355
Last Year: 218
Last 30 Days: 5
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2888 | Routes 255 | Areas 23 | Photos 5 | Page Improvements 49 | Comments 292 | Posts 105 | Stars 1207 | Ratings 952
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : Village Cobbler (5.11b)
By: George Perkins When: 11 hours ago

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Comments: With all respect for the idea of adding a permadraw to alleviate a challenging clip (which I do appreciate sometimes), if people are clipping that with a quickdraw, it seems to me like adding another bolt is a better solution. One of you folks with a drill ought to send Lance an email, or else just take the permadraw off and let the climb just be one of those with a bit of a bite to it (it's not like there aren't others in NM with minor runouts / hard clips, so it's good practice to lea... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Science Friction & Windward... : Good Clean Fun (5.11-)
By: George Perkins When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Placed 2 pieces of pro: a yellow tcu at the start and a stopper near the top of p1, was glad I had a small rack.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Big Pine Wall : Squeeze My Cobbles (5.11b)
By: George Perkins When: 2 days ago

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Comments: A good independent line, despite the allusion in the name.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Boy What Nice Fellows (5.11a PG13)
By: George Perkins When: May 14, 2016

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Comments: In Jemez Rock, "Boy What Nice Fellows" (11b, TR) is described as the face between "Squeeze Chimney and "Boy What Assholes", going right and joining "Assholes" at the top. The lower half of this TR problem likely shares terrain with the more recently bolted "Nice Guys Finish Last", but branches right mid-way up. This would put it to the right of "Nice Guys" in the left-to-right route list.

The face with the OW on it (described here) is "Squeeze Chimney" (5.10d).


Location: NM : Upper Rio Puerco Valley : Cabezon Peak : Mad Hatter's Tea Party (5.5)
By: George Perkins When: May 4, 2016

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Comments: A few 5th class routes are on the S-Side of Cabezon, info:
See also Cerro Cabezon page, some info in the MP forum and rockclimbing.com (links below)

mountainproject.com/v/cabezon-...
rockclimbing.com/routes/North_...


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Devil's Throne
By: George Perkins When: May 4, 2016

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Comments: Aaron Miller showed me a couple of lines that he had climbed here maybe 15 yrs ago, on the bigger formation on the S side of Waldo Canyon Rd. (Devils Throne). As I remember, a 10+(?) crack/dihedral that looked like the cleanest and best line at the crag (has anchors, noteworthy as Aaron's first FA in New Mexico) and another one that he said wasn't as good, possibly others too. If you're contemplating climbing in this area, consider asking him for more details, maybe he'll post with the names a... more >>


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ... : Duran Duran (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: Didn't try the 5.12a extension, but I felt the 5.11c to the mid-anchor was well worth doing in its own right (as good as Master Ganj). Rock quality seemed good enough, but would recommend stick clipping b1.

Dirt Wall hosts a handful of good 5.11s that stop at the mid-anchors; check out the list on the Dirt Wall page for details.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ... : Bob Marley Meets Master Gan... (5.11b)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 17, 2016

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Comments: I clipped 7 bolts today (no extension, just to the ledge), so I think a few were more recently added.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Route 31 (5.12b)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 24, 2016

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Comments: Though short and perhaps weirdly bolted (don't Z-clip, though I didn't see a better way it could have been bolted), this climb is unusual for White Rock: a steep boulder-problem crux at the 2nd bolt, but its still thin and challenging for the rest of its length.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Main Wall : Pull to Live (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 20, 2016

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Comments: Please consider adding a bolt below the first one, so stick-clipping (or stupid high solo-ing to) the first bolt isn't needed.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower : Squash Blossom (5.12a PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 19, 2016

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Comments: I felt Squash Blossom was perhaps the most serious, intimidating, hardest 11+/12- I've been on in the Sandias (Not to disagree with the above posters, and I haven't tried Sister Sledge, and maybe it's just early season?) Low 12 has been my limit in the Sandias, I would be hesitant to lead this next time without pre-loading lots of gear while rapping in. Hats off to those who can rap in without close inspection, pull the rope and send it.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Gilman Tunnels : Second Tunnel : Sierra Corazon (5.5)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: Lowering biners and chains are adequate, probably were upgraded since above posts.
Lowering off worked just fine, but do knot the end of a 60m rope (it's close). If cleaning while lowering, just downclimb after you clean the lowest draw.

Great climb for little kids or other beginners.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Alcohol Wall : Bourbon Street (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 7, 2016

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Comments: Nothing unusually scary about this one - regular Socorro Box bolt spacing (maybe not the best first 5.9, but reasonably safe). No need for trad gear. Not sure on the history (if it was originally done with fewer bolts, etc.), and honestly do not intend to project a judgment on retrobolting for this climb.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Pale Face (5.11+)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 24, 2016

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Comments: We successfully did this climb today with a single 60m rope and absolutely no length to spare. Just reached with rope stretch. Definitely tie off the belayers rope end, maybe your rope isn't as stretchy as mine (down climbing the last 15' feet wouldn't be that challenging, if you had to).

Some people stem to the right wall at the top. That's not necessary, but makes that part a little easier.

The plaque is at the base today. It's the 2nd sport climb left of the post.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada : Route 22 (5.11-)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 18, 2016

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Comments: This is one of the "top 10" White Rock cracks IMO, despite having no name and not lots of stars in the guidebook.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains
By: George Perkins When: Jan 13, 2016

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Comments: RE: approach times in the Sandias.
Approaches are usually 30 min- 1hr, if you don't get lost. (Except for the Needle and the Shield- those are more like 1.5hrs- 2 hrs, if you don't get lost.)
Early April is typically a bit early in the season. (edit 4/2016) But this year, it ought to be ok, I've climbed in the Sandias a couple of times already this year.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall
By: George Perkins When: Jan 8, 2016

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Comments: [EDIT 1/19/2016: Please! Be careful and doublecheck everything! Less than 2 weeks after I posted this, (I had best intentions that some tips might help people), a climber fell from the top of one of these routes. I do not know the details of what happened and if I did I probably wouldn't post them here. I do know that I, and others, have witnessed considerable confusion at this wall over the last 15 years, so I had thought posting some advice might help. If there are things people can share ... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Highway to Hell (5.8 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 2, 2016

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Comments: This was the chossiest, sketchiest climb I've done at Diablo, and possibly all of New Mexico. I can't remember the last time I was this freaked out on 5.8. A number of the Hellboy bolts are within reach and could be clipped if you get too scared (and don't have a reputation to maintain). Don't even consider it, if other people are milling around at the base of Post Moderate or others nearby.

Can descend with a single 60m rope in 2 raps, using the Hellboy midway anchor.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Lucy (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 2, 2016

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Comments: Most consider "Lucy" a little easier than the right branch (Cro-Magnon), despite the runout. Cro-Magnon doesn't have a scary runout. However, a finger-size cam (#0.3 BD) fits nicely in Lucy's runout section between bolts 9 & 10, if you're spooked by 5.7 that you really don't want to fall on. Still, both variations are a little bit headier than usual for sport climbs, because of their length and because the belayer can't see you on the high vert face.

In recent months, a block broke ar... more >>


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Witchcraft and Widgetry (5.13- PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 12, 2015

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Comments: Way to go Eric!! One of the best and most obvious lines at Capulin for sure! A few of us have pretended to climb this over the last 5 years, not one of us was close, but we knew it was all there and did all the moves (Josh having done it more respectably than anyone else, we both tried it at least 2-3 times). We thought the roof might need a bolt but that's even better that it doesn't. Small fingers and good flexibility will help on the stemming up the first half, but a good span may help on the... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Touchstone Wall (5.9 C2)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: For a typical 5.9-5.11 leader, I think Touchstone is best viewed as a 2-3 pitch aid climb, followed by a 5-6 pitch free climb. The last 4-5 pitches will go much more easily if you're in free climbing mode and can free 5.9 and 5.10 cracks. (If 5.10 is hard for you, the short section of 5.10b on the 7th pitch can be dealt with easily by pulling on gear for 1-2 moves). On their own, the last 5 pitches would be considered a classic Zion 5.10.

In particular: Pitch 4 (5.10) and Pitch 3 (5.11) ar... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground : Unrelenting Nines (5.11c/d)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 9, 2015

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Comments: Climbed Unrelenting Nines again last week. The missing hanger on the right anchor bolt was replaced, but this bolt is loose and should not be fully trusted. As a back-up to the left bolt, it's probably ok. Considering the contentiousness of bolts at White Rock trad areas, maybe it shouldn't be replaced out of courtesy to the values of the a few long-time local WR climbers, maybe it should since a majority appreciate them, I don't know.. If anyone is going to fix things, my suggestion is to put... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Tooth : ... : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Oct 21, 2015

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Comments: I've been on TrC 3 times, and each time was always very impressed with the idea that the FA team had "just gone for it" out onto that beautiful blank-looking slab and put the 4 bolts in on lead from stances on what is perhaps the most notorious pitch in the Organs. Can't say I blame them, but it's interesting to see that the FA team used a different (less insane, smarter) strategy to get past this intimidating pitch-- toproping much of the pitch, but with increasingly big swing potential, off g... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Left (East Side) : Bush in a Blender (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 17, 2015

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Comments: From the last bolt, you can finish straight up to a bolted anchor (won't be visible until you're there), or go up and right to a different bolted anchor above the crack to the right.


Location: CO : Durango : Golf Wall : Right Side : In The Rough (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 13, 2015

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Comments: The 5.11 with the runout is called "Fairway Direct" in the older "Rock Climbing Colorado" book. This book calls the 5.10 to its left "In the Rough".


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