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Rock Climbing Photo: I'm not a crusher; I just spray a lot.


Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
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George Perkins
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Total Points: 3,372
Last Year: 180
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2941 | Routes 255 | Areas 23 | Photos 5 | Page Improvements 50 | Comments 302 | Posts 113 | Stars 1224 | Ratings 969
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : Monster Island : Point 8,919 : Pie in the Sky (5.11 X)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: Why even post it then? ( I'm much more likely to climb it now than if you hadn't shared it.)

Looks rad!


Location: NM
By: George Perkins When: Aug 27, 2016

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Comments:
d. hall wrote:
Just moved to Albuquerque from baltimore. Wondering what would be a good climbing guide book to pick up. Is the Falcon guide inclusive and up to date enough?
Yes, Falcon's Rock Climbing: NM is the best first option for an ABQ-based climber. Other guides (especially Jemez Rock; and maybe Sandia Rock if you like trad; and Taos Rock- though a bit farther away) cover some of the areas you&@POUN... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas
By: George Perkins When: Jul 31, 2016

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Comments: There are ~4 sport climbs way farther down, in the East Fork Box, for those into a bit more exploration and a beautiful hike. I think they are in the 5.11 to 5.12 ranges-- I've heard a bit of information. From my understanding, the FAs (Heath Bailey and Shibli Fazal?) have largely moved on from route development in the area, so I highly doubt there's an issue with me mentioning them, but let me know if there is and I'll delete this. I... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock
By: George Perkins When: Jul 22, 2016

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Comments: As I've been looking for mountain climbs to do recently, I'll suggest this page would be a bit more user-friendly with a bit more re-organization of sub-areas. I'll suggest the below as a start, similar to how its done in the 14er guides, but keeping individual Front Range areas separated.

1) Tenmile Range
----all currently listed areas
----Fletcher Peak to Atlantic Peak
----Pacific Peak
----Quandary Peak
2) Sawatch Range (needs a new... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : The Needles : Jagged Mountain : Normal Route (5.2)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: Admittedly at risk of sandbagging someone with this, but anyway...

If you're wondering whether you should bring a rope and climbing gear, climbing shoes, etc., IMO if you climb 5.6 confidently, you ought to be okay without all that stuff. The cruxes are short (~20' at most) and IMO are reasonable to solo, up and down, for most dedicated, in shape, "rock climbers", assuming it's dry. For a comparison, I w... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Wailing Banshees (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 13, 2016

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Comments: Birds nest in one of the pocket holds on this climb- consider not climbing it.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Big Pine Wall : Corn on the Cobble (5.11b)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: Most people will now clip 7 bolts, the last bolt being shared with the relatively new climb to its right, Squeeze My Cobbles. Not runout.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : The Legs : No Questa About It (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: One can traverse in from the right and skip p1, and start with p2 (the steep 5.9 hands that goes to the arete- this is a good feature to pick out- I think if you identify this, the rest of the route-finding will come naturally).

Josh S. and I got as far as roping up for it a few years ago, but decided not to due to weather. (This was before the climb was posted, we didn't know the climb had already been done but should have assumed so. Cool to see what we would have gotten... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : North Face (5.6 R)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: Perhaps you were off route? It's also listed at 5.6 in the guidebook and the SW mountaineers topo. The West Ridge of the Wedge (listed at 5.7 in the books) in the Organs felt harder to me. Admittedly, I've found most of the ~10 climbs I've done in the Organs to be hard at their respective grades, but I'm not local.

This climb is a magnet for epics, and warrants more respect than most people will give to a 5.6. I&@... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : On Beyond Zebra (5.12b)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: "On Beyond Zebra" is 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor (bolt count in the books is off).
It's given an "R" for pro in some books, but that's obsolete info, as the 2nd bolt was added after the FA (and the FAist was involved in the process). Now it is just minor runout on 5.8-ish terrain, no issue for anyone even considering 5.12b at White Rock.

I was happy to see the photos posted of the FA showing the arete to the left at the crux is "on", trying to go direct without the arete is quite hard.

Samet... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : Village Cobbler (5.11b)
By: George Perkins When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: With all respect for the idea of adding a permadraw to alleviate a challenging clip (which I do appreciate sometimes), if people are clipping that with a quickdraw, it seems to me like adding another bolt is a better solution. One of you folks with a drill ought to send Lance an email and put one in. Alternatively, take the permadraw down and let the climb just be one of those with a bit of a bite to it (there are some classic 5.11 sport climbs in NM with minor runouts / hard clips, so... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Windward Wall : Good Clean Fun (5.11-)
By: George Perkins When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: Placed 2 pieces of pro: a yellow tcu at the start and a stopper near the top of p1, was glad I had a small rack.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Big Pine Wall : Squeeze My Cobbles (5.11b)
By: George Perkins When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: A good independent line, despite the allusion in the name.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Boy What Nice Fellows (5.11a PG13)
By: George Perkins When: May 14, 2016

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Comments: In Jemez Rock, "Boy What Nice Fellows" (11b, TR) is described as the face between "Squeeze Chimney and "Boy What Assholes", going right and joining "Assholes" at the top. The lower half of this TR problem likely shares terrain with the more recently bolted "Nice Guys Finish Last", but branches right mid-way up. This would put it to the right of "Nice Guys" in the left-to-right route list.

The face with the OW on it (described here) is "Squeeze Chimney" (5.10d).


Location: NM : Upper Rio Puerco Valley : Cabezon Peak : Mad Hatter's Tea Party (5.5)
By: George Perkins When: May 4, 2016

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Comments: A few 5th class routes are on the S-Side of Cabezon, info:
See also SE Gully (Standard Route) page, some info in the MP forum and rockclimbing.com (links below)

mountainproject.com/v/cabezon-...
rockclimbing.com/routes/North_...


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Devil's Throne
By: George Perkins When: May 4, 2016

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Comments: Aaron Miller showed me a couple of lines that he had climbed here maybe 15 yrs ago, on the bigger formation on the S side of Waldo Canyon Rd. (Devils Throne). As I remember, a 10+(?) crack/dihedral that looked like the cleanest and best line at the crag (has anchors, noteworthy as Aaron's first FA in New Mexico) and another one that he said wasn't as good, possibly others too. If you're contemplating climbing in this area, consider asking him for more details, maybe he'll post with the names a... more >>


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ... : Duran Duran (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: Didn't try the 5.12a extension, but I felt the 5.11c to the mid-anchor was well worth doing in its own right (as good as Master Ganj). Rock quality seemed good enough, but would recommend stick clipping b1.

Dirt Wall hosts a handful of good 5.11s that stop at the mid-anchors; check out the list on the Dirt Wall page for details.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ... : Bob Marley Meets Master Gan... (5.11b)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 17, 2016

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Comments: I clipped 7 bolts today (no extension, just to the ledge), so I think a few were more recently added.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Route 31 (5.12b)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 24, 2016

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Comments: Though short and perhaps weirdly bolted (don't Z-clip, though I didn't see a better way it could have been bolted), this climb is unusual for White Rock: a steep boulder-problem crux at the 2nd bolt, but its still thin and challenging for the rest of its length.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Main Wall : Pull to Live (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 20, 2016

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Comments: Please consider adding a bolt below the first one, so stick-clipping (or stupid high solo-ing to) the first bolt isn't needed.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower : Squash Blossom (5.12a PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 19, 2016

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Comments: I felt Squash Blossom was perhaps the most serious, intimidating, hardest 11+/12- I've been on in the Sandias (Not to disagree with the above posters, and I haven't tried Sister Sledge, and maybe it's just early season?) Low 12 has been my limit in the Sandias, I would be hesitant to lead this next time without pre-loading lots of gear while rapping in. Hats off to those who can rap in without close inspection, pull the rope and send it.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Gilman Tunnels : Second Tunnel : Sierra Corazon (5.5)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: Lowering biners and chains are adequate, probably were upgraded since above posts.
Lowering off worked just fine, but do knot the end of a 60m rope (it's close). If cleaning while lowering, just downclimb after you clean the lowest draw.

Great climb for little kids or other beginners.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Alcohol Wall : Bourbon Street (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 7, 2016

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Comments: Nothing unusually scary about this one - regular Socorro Box bolt spacing (maybe not the best first 5.9, but reasonably safe). No need for trad gear. Not sure on the history (if it was originally done with fewer bolts, etc.), and honestly do not intend to project a judgment on retrobolting for this climb.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Pale Face (5.11+)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 24, 2016

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Comments: We successfully did this climb today with a single 60m rope and absolutely no length to spare. Just reached with rope stretch. Definitely tie off the belayers rope end, maybe your rope isn't as stretchy as mine (down climbing the last 15' feet wouldn't be that challenging, if you had to).

Some people stem to the right wall at the top. That's not necessary, but makes that part a little easier.

The plaque is at the base today. It's the 2nd sport climb left of the post.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada : Route 22 (5.11-)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 18, 2016

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Comments: This is one of the "top 10" White Rock cracks IMO, despite having no name and not lots of stars in the guidebook.


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