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Rock Climbing Photo: I'm not a crusher; I just spray a lot.


Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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George Perkins
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Point Rank: # 166
Total Points: 3,294
Last Year: 216
Last 30 Days: 7
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2824 | Routes 251 | Areas 23 | Photos 5 | Page Improvements 47 | Comments 285 | Posts 100 | Stars 1182 | Ratings 931
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower
By: George Perkins When: 11 hours ago

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Comments: Regarding “A Date With Death”’s history:

First, I have no direct info (I was how young in the 80s? and haven't touched 5.13 in the Sandias) and do not mean to question Mick or the people he talked to, or diminish Cody’s send. (My impression, and everything I've heard, of both those guys' integrity has been really positive.)
Only to add a bit more info for those who care. I received an email from a LA climber who climbed with John Duran at Cochiti in the late 80s/early 90s. Quoted bel... more >>


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Alcohol Wall : Bourbon Street (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Nothing unusually scary about this one - regular Socorro Box bolt spacing (maybe not the best first 5.9, but reasonably safe). No need for trad gear. Not sure on the history (if it was originally done with fewer bolts, etc.), and honestly do not intend to project a judgment on retrobolting for this climb.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Pale Face (5.11+)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 24, 2016

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Comments: We successfully did this climb today with a single 60m rope and absolutely no length to spare. Just reached with rope stretch. Definitely tie off the belayers rope end, maybe your rope isn't as stretchy as mine (down climbing the last 15' feet wouldn't be that challenging, if you had to).

Some people stem to the right wall at the top. That's not necessary, but makes that part a little easier.

The plaque is at the base today. It's the 2nd sport climb left of the post.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada : Route 22 (5.11-)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 18, 2016

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Comments: This is one of the "top 10" White Rock cracks IMO, despite having no name and not lots of stars in the guidebook.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains
By: George Perkins When: Jan 13, 2016

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Comments: RE: approach times in the Sandias.
Approaches are usually 30 min- 1hr, if you don't get lost. (Except for the Needle and the Shield- those are more like 1.5hrs- 2 hrs, if you don't get lost.)
Early April is probably a bit early in the season (I'd expect snow on the approach, and it might still be "winter" up there), but sometimes even the warmest sunny winter days can be climbable.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall
By: George Perkins When: Jan 8, 2016

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Comments: [EDIT 1/19/2016: Please! Be careful and doublecheck everything! Less than 2 weeks after I posted this, (I had best intentions that some tips might help people), a climber fell from the top of one of these routes. I do not know the details of what happened and if I did I probably wouldn't post them here. I do know that I, and others, have witnessed considerable confusion at this wall over the last 15 years, so I had thought posting some advice might help. If there are things people can share ... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Sapien (5.12c)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 2, 2016

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Comments: This climb was recently updated with a bunch (3) cable perma-draws, in addition to the (2) chain draws that were there previously. Not sure who's responsible, but thanks!
Has anyone sent since the block broke?


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Highway to Hell (5.8 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 2, 2016

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Comments: This was the chossiest, sketchiest climb I've done at Diablo, and possibly all of New Mexico. I can't remember the last time I was this freaked out on 5.8. A number of the Hellboy bolts are within reach and could be clipped if you get too scared (and don't have a reputation to maintain). Don't even consider it, if other people are milling around at the base of Post Moderate or others nearby.

Can descend with a single 60m rope in 2 raps, using the Hellboy midway anchor.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Lucy (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 2, 2016

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Comments: Most consider "Lucy" a little easier than the right branch (Cro-Magnon), despite the runout. Cro-Magnon doesn't have a scary runout. However, a finger-size cam (#0.3 BD) fits nicely in Lucy's runout section between bolts 9 & 10, if you're spooked by 5.7 that you really don't want to fall on. Still, both variations are a little bit headier than usual for sport climbs, because of their length and because the belayer can't see you on the high vert face.

In recent months, a block broke ar... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Erectus (Open Project) (5.12c)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 20, 2015

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Comments: "Tim", Pretty sure there isn't any glue in the Solar Cave (and nearly none at Diablo), though I could be mistaken about some of the newer climbs/projects. At least 5 of the Solar Cave climbs have had blocks break or get cleaned off with the resulting climb made harder. Ethics of it aside, for the most part, gluing blocks at Diablo would be a waste of both time and glue.

Glad no one was hurt.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Witchcraft and Widgetry (5.13- PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 12, 2015

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Comments: Way to go Eric!! One of the best and most obvious lines at Capulin for sure! A few of us have pretended to climb this over the last 5 years, not one of us was close, but we knew it was all there and did all the moves (Josh having done it more respectably than anyone else, we both tried it at least 2-3 times). We thought the roof might need a bolt but that's even better that it doesn't. Small fingers and good flexibility will help on the stemming up the first half, but a good span may help on the... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Touchstone Wall (5.9 C2)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: For a typical 5.9-5.11 leader, I think Touchstone is best viewed as a 2-3 pitch aid climb, followed by a 5-6 pitch free climb. The last 4-5 pitches will go much more easily if you're in free climbing mode and can free 5.9 and 5.10 cracks. (If 5.10 is hard for you, the short section of 5.10b on the 7th pitch can be dealt with easily by pulling on gear for 1-2 moves). On their own, the last 5 pitches would be considered a classic Zion 5.10.

In particular: Pitch 4 (5.10) and Pitch 3 (5.11) ar... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground : Unrelenting Nines (5.11c/d)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 9, 2015

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Comments: Climbed Unrelenting Nines this weekend for the first time this fall. One of the hangers was missing from the anchor, not sure if it needs a new hanger or pull and redrill. I was able to build a suitable anchor using a cordelette. Most (or all?) of the rest of the anchors at the cliff seem ok (edit 12/2015).

-----------------------------------------------------
Best crack at White Rock. I don't care about that bolt-ethics stuff above any more, whether there should or shouldn't be any here, just... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Tooth : ... : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Oct 21, 2015

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Comments: I've been on TrC 3 times, and each time was always very impressed with the idea that the FA team had "just gone for it" out onto that beautiful blank-looking slab and put the 4 bolts in on lead from stances on what is perhaps the most notorious pitch in the Organs. Can't say I blame them, but it's interesting to see that the FA team used a different (less insane, smarter) strategy to get past this intimidating pitch-- toproping much of the pitch, but with increasingly big swing potential, off g... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Left (East Side) : Bush in a Blender (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 17, 2015

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Comments: From the last bolt, you can finish straight up to a bolted anchor (won't be visible until you're there), or go up and right to a different bolted anchor above the crack to the right.


Location: CO : Durango : Golf Wall : Right Side : In The Rough (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 13, 2015

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Comments: The 5.11 with the runout is called "Fairway Direct" in the older "Rock Climbing Colorado" book. This book calls the 5.10 to its left "In the Rough".


Location: CO : Durango : Golf Wall : Right Side : Teed Off (5.10c/d)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 13, 2015

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Comments: This climb (the 5.10 on the right side) is called "In the Rough" in the older Rock Climbing: Colorado book.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : West Rock : Alien (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: The anchor bolts are larger than 1/4".


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : The Balcony : Mister Bigglesworth (5.10a)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: Those bolts are larger than 1/4", but yes, they may not inspire confidence depending on what you're used to.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Old New Place : Songs of Love (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 7, 2015

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Comments: I'd climbed a line (on lead, but with basically no pro) like this (just right of #20) a few years back, but I'll admit I maybe traversed in a bit too high for it to count, not worthy of any credit.

As I was digging through the old stuff on the webs, it occurs that this might be a '97 Takeda-Laeser-Torres-Fitzgibbon climb "Jump Chump" (not sure if TR or lead)- this seems like one section of cliff at ONP that fits for it.
12/26-30/97 New Routes at the Old New Place, New New Place
First... more >>


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon
By: George Perkins When: Oct 5, 2015

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Comments: The water faucet near the camping area is off. La Garita store is closest, but you need to get there when it's open.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : WatchTower : Watchman's Secret (5.12a PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: Fun climb. Some notes and pitch-by-pitch ratings to go with the above:
P1: (5.10) Bolts plus supplemental gear. This pitch, or Excalibur's p1 (5.9+), could be used as a start to either route. Both are good; Excalibur is more direct but less interesting, the Watchman's Secret start is harder.
P2: (5.12-) Aim to climb into the L-facing corner you rapped down. It should be obvious, but after the 2nd bolt, don't get lured farther to the right, where there are also bolts for the 5.11+ vari... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : WatchTower : Watchman's Secret, Variatio... (5.11d PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 26, 2015

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Comments: I don't know who bolted this variation, but Will V. and I climbed Watchmans Secret today (great route!), and this variation to the 2nd pitch is well off to the right. To us, it seemed like this variation doesn't interfere with or affect the climbing on the original version, isn't squeezed, and it didn't cause us any confusion when trying the original line.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Loose Cannon (5.13a)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 24, 2015

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Comments: I've been falling onto Loose Cannon's crux bolt all summer long without any unclipping or carabiner breaking events, and I haven't heard of any such events from other Dungeon regulars (there hasn't been a chain draw for at least the last 7 years, and most of the time since 2002). If you prehang draws (best done by climbing Gangland to the Loose Cannon finish), you could put a locker on this bolt.

It is somewhat annoying to clean when you can't do the crux move (the easiest way is to climb Gang... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Old New Place : Route 17 (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 31, 2015

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Comments: I climbed this again, and didn't notice the missing flake as making it that much harder, and maybe a little better. However, I have always felt this was a hard 5.9, especially on lead. A large brassie is pretty crucial gear at the crux.


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