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Hanging at a slab belay


Member Since: Jul 5, 2010
Last Visit: May 14, 2013
Contact George K. Watson


Point Rank: # 6,304
Total Points: 54
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has George K. Watson been climbing?










Contributions


All 62 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 24 | Posts 1 | Stars 30 | Ratings 2

Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Mexico : Southern Mexico : Tulum
By: George K. Watson When: Jul 18, 2011

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Comments: Unfortunately, the rules are being enforced vigorously at the cliffs below the ruins. It's too bad as it's a harmless activity. I was booted a few weeks ago. There is some smaller stuff (all I have found so far) both north and south of the ruins, especially south. It does not compare with the ruins stuff, but it's ok.
I will keep looking as I am living here now.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Southern Mexico : Tulum
By: George K. Watson When: Apr 16, 2011

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Comments: Climbed here years ago with shoes/chalk (Boreal Aces, that's how long ago). I thought it was a really fun diversion, especially pulling over the top to find the occasional iguana bobbing at you. Now that I am doing underwater cave exploration in the area, I plan to revisit.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Athlete's Feat (5.11a) : Photo
By: George K. Watson When: Aug 18, 2010

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Comments: Yes, if you dispense with the rope and therefore, the rope drag.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Empor (5.7+)
By: George K. Watson When: Aug 18, 2010

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Comments: I'd bring stuff to 3.5" if I were just leading at this level. Also, the creek is way down, easy to cross, but the downstream tyrolean is definitely in. Love the last 7+ handcrack variant, way better than the slot. There are three fixed pins in the first couple of pitches. The first one looks pretty good, the next two, not so much. We did the first two pitches as one, bring several slings for this.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Ms. Fanny Le Pump (5.11c)
By: George K. Watson When: Aug 17, 2010

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Comments: FA was Bruce Morris, not "Moss".


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Wind Ridge (5.8)
By: George K. Watson When: Aug 15, 2010

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Comments: Did this today for the first time in years. The start is probably not as hard as rated though it is a bit awkward. The second pitch has a bunch of useless fixed gear in it that probably should be pounded out. I almost lost a #1 Camalot on the first pitch when the trigger wires all pulled! I was able to get it after we finished using a nut tool to work the cams.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : East Slab (5.6)
By: George K. Watson When: Aug 11, 2010

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Comments: Did this fun little pitch today and scored a ton of gear. A #3 Camalot, a QD, and two biners', one locking. Made my day!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Second Buttress : Classic Finger Crack (5.9)
By: George K. Watson When: Aug 11, 2010

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Comments: Did this years ago and then again today, it's fun if you are in the neighborhood, but it's very short and very little 'finger crack' climbing technique is actually used. #2 Camalot is good for the initial little corner smaller and bigger by one size would work also. Wireds and a #1.5 Friend for the 'finger crack'.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: George K. Watson When: Aug 8, 2010

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Comments: Nice day on the route today which I have done many, many times. Significant vegetation in the upper dihedral. This route gets done still, doesn't it? We gardened it a bit. IMHO the rap anchors are set up awkwardly. The Scratch and Sniff anchors could be at the base of the upper dihedral and serve both routes well.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Y Crack (5.10a)
By: George K. Watson When: Jul 12, 2010

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Comments: Kind of fun, I did this barefoot years ago. Typical Royal Arches area potato chips for feet on slabby rock.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Outer Limits (5.10c)
By: George K. Watson When: Jul 10, 2010

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Comments: Beautiful route. If there is a crux, it's low down at a little pod area and then the thing keeps going and going and going at hand size. A fistful of hand size cams enables you to pro this superbly.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : I Promise Not To Cam In You... (5.10b)
By: George K. Watson When: Jul 9, 2010

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Comments: I thought this was one of the nicer lines on the crag when Norman and I climbed it. Any bolts are post FA.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Caesar's (5.10b)
By: George K. Watson When: Jul 9, 2010

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Comments: This route is named after my sometimes partner's dog, Caesar. This dog accompanied us pretty much whenever we climbed, and the most annoying thing about him (Doberman) was that he loved to clean ears. I always arrived at the crags with absolutely no wax to be found in my ears, and I think he even cleaned my brainstem a couple of times.
FA: George Watson, Steve Brodhead, late '80s though it may have been done earlier by some other party.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Ranklands of Perfidy (5.9)
By: George K. Watson When: Jul 8, 2010

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Comments: When I first climbed this in the late '80s, there were no bolts placed/in place anywhere in the vicinity.
I did this with Norman Boles, and though it appears as though many of the natural routes in this area may have been previously done, we initially claimed it.

We originally called it 'Ranklands of Perfidy' and since we are in general, using the names myself and my partners gave to these various little lines, it should probably be corrected.

I did install a rap route on the crag at one poi... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Winter Dreams / Gene and Ge... (5.10c)
By: George K. Watson When: Jul 8, 2010

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Comments: I have long suspected that this line and several others had previously been climbed. They are obvious lines on the crag, well protected and somewhat pleasant. Unfortunately, for whatever reason, the possible first ascentionists chose not to make the information concerning these routes generally available to the local climbing community, leading to the confusion. I suppose until this information becomes solidly known, that we can leave the FAs indeterminate and use the names given them by my part... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Winter Dreams / Gene and Ge... (5.10c)
By: George K. Watson When: Jul 7, 2010

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Comments: FA: Gene Ellis, George Watson, late '80s, though I would not deny that someone may have done this earlier.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Gill Crack (5.12a)
By: George K. Watson When: Jul 7, 2010

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Comments: Painful and hard as hell. The feet are on grease and the fingers scream. Hats off to JG.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Arete Butler (5.10a)
By: George K. Watson When: Jul 7, 2010

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Comments: The FA was done by George Watson, Brian Bennett and Norman Boles in 1986. Though not a classic, the route is quite enjoyable on typical Royal Arches little edges and smears.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Circle A Wall : Joe Mamba (5.9)
By: George K. Watson When: Jul 6, 2010

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Comments: FA: George Watson, Norman Boles 1988


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Quarter of a Man (5.12-)
By: George K. Watson When: Jul 6, 2010

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Comments: An incredible route. 11 #2s Jeebus.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : North Face & Northwest Corn... : McCarthy's North Face (5.11a)
By: George K. Watson When: Jul 6, 2010

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Comments: One of my favorite leads of all time. Be comfortable with space belays and placing lots of small stuff.
When I did this years ago with Steve Ilg, we did a major stupid and left a knot in either side of the anchors at the end of P2 when we did the rappel. He ended up hand-over-handing the entire second pitch (with a prussic on the rope) to undo the idiot knot. Derek Hersey witnessed our dumbshit move and had a great deal of fun with us later.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Divine Wind (5.11b)
By: George K. Watson When: Jul 6, 2010

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Comments: A very nice climb when combined with Wounded Knee to top out. The pro is really good the whole way with small stuff. I have only done the original finish once, a million years ago, on the dull end and I remember my friend Andy Burnham, who would lead anything, commenting that it was pretty dicey. It certainly seemed he had done a load of hard moves before he got anything in.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Slow Train Coming (5.11a)
By: George K. Watson When: Jul 5, 2010

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Comments: I did this years ago with Derek Hersey and Jon Grayson and none of us thought it was harder than 10+ (c/d). A small TCU can be used under a little overlap to make it a bit less 'spicy'. It's a little heretical being this close to P1 of the NE, but the climbing is nice.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerial Book (5.11a R)
By: George K. Watson When: Jul 5, 2010

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Comments: Small RPs protect the first pitch quite well, the Crack-'n-up thing should be put to rest. Carry 2x #3 RPs and a #2 and some other really small wireds and you will be fine.
The second pitch is among my favorites in the area.