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Member Since: Oct 4, 2008
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact George Bracksieck

Point Rank: # 661
Total Points: 1,143
Last Year: 130
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has George Bracksieck been climbing?










George Bracksieck

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 516 | Routes 54 | Areas 6 | Photos 56 | Page Improvements | Comments 233 | Posts 110 | Stars 54 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: MD : Rocks State Park : Biceps Wall : Biceptennial (5.10a)
By: George Bracksieck When: Apr 25, 2016

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Comments: FA: Mike Endicott and Milt Strickler, 1976.


Location: MD : Rocks State Park : Breakaway Wall : Mike's Finger Buckets (5.10b R)
By: George Bracksieck When: Apr 25, 2016

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Comments: FA: Mike Endicott, '70s.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Left Long Moderate Dihedral... (5.7+)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 27, 2016

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Comments: I climbed this in the '70s, then we walked off.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Winky Woo (5.4 R)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 27, 2016

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Comments: On May 17, 1977, I led Claire Carren up a direct start to Winky Woo. I recall that it was more like the variation that Guy H. describes (above) than the "Super Woo," which may be harder and farther left.

Here's quoting Guy's description: "We did a 3-star variation to the start of this climb the other day. It starts about 20-30ft to the left of the SW chimney, somewhere between the "Super" and standerd starts. There is about 30ft of fun ~5.8 climbing on a bucket covered bulging wall. This pitch ... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Poway Crags : Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 19, 2015

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Comments: The Ramona Wall is out of sight behind the high ridge to the mountain summit.


Location: CA : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Poway Crags : Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 19, 2015

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Comments: This pic shows Iron Mtn and the start of the Iron Mtn trail. You can't see the Poway Crags until you go through the pass on the skyline. BTW this isn't the fastest approach to the Poway Crags.


Location: CA : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Poway Crags : Ramona Wall : ... : Unemployment Line (5.8)
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 19, 2015

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Comments: This climb's lower moves feature big footholds without handholds. Between the first and second bolts, there is a 5.9 move. Between the third and fourth bolts is a LONG off-balance, painful crossover reach — with no left foothold — up and left to the only big handhold on the route (5.10). If I were a few inches taller than 5' 8", this move would be easier.

Mordy did a great job onsighting this sandbag. I was unable to do the crux. I counted six bolts before the two anchor bolts on top. From ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Voices Carry (5.8-)
By: George Bracksieck When: Nov 25, 2015

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Comments: Climbs lacking loose debris, whether rock or lichen, haven't necessarily been climbed previously. Those may be composed of a more resistant rock and/or lie in areas more exposed to wind and sun.

Conversely, lichen-infested climbs that have lots of loose rock might have been climbed previously. I have left most of my many shaggy passages in original condition because I chose not to chalk, clean, brush, or trundle, although I have moved or tossed rocks that threatened my companions. A subsequent... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Voices Carry (5.8-) : Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Nov 25, 2015

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Comments: Narrow, elongated S! This pic is of p.1. The second pitch is hidden from view and goes to the top of the rock.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stoner Slab : Inagodadavida (5.5)
By: George Bracksieck When: Nov 24, 2015

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Comments: I climbed this today with Leo Paik and Doug Redosh. From the base of the Bitty Buttress route, we descended southeast for about 200 feet, then third-classed a long way east, across loose ledges, until we reached the start of what Rossiter describes as pitch two of Inagodadavida.

We top-roped the lower pitch, which is unprotectable, by belaying the climber as he traversed east to the "left [west] of two trees," then using the tree as a directional for lowering him to the base of the route. Bewa... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stoner Slab
By: George Bracksieck When: Nov 24, 2015

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Comments: I climbed here today with Leo Paik and Doug Redosh. From the base of the Bitty Buttress route, we descended southeast for about 200 feet, then third-classed a long way east, across loose ledges, until we reached the start of what Rossiter describes as pitch two of Inagodadavida.

We top-roped the lower pitch, which is unprotectable, by belaying the climber as he traversed east to the "left of two trees," then using the tree as a directional for lowering him to the base of the route. Beware of l... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Trespass Rock
By: George Bracksieck When: Nov 18, 2015

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Comments: In the late '70s, I climbed the best-looking route on this rock. The same house was there, but the bike path wasn't. We crossed the creek from the nearest good pullout on the creek side of the road. We also climbed a left-leaning line on the obvious (but smaller) rock that is a city block (or so) downstream from this one and on the same side of the creek. Both climbs were moderate in difficulty.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress
By: George Bracksieck When: Nov 17, 2015

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Comments: "Up & Right" is really up and left. Moby Dike is the leftmost route on the whole Bitty complex.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Mushroom Massif : ... : Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Nov 13, 2015

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Comments: I'm told that this pic's yellow dashed lines indicate the boundaries of where you can wander when doing this route. Those aren't separate routes or variations.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Unknown (5.6 ramp) (5.6)
By: George Bracksieck When: Oct 5, 2015

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Comments: The first bolt wiggles and should be replaced with a correctly torqued long, half-inch stainless-steel sleeve bolt, such as the Powers 5-piece. (I recall that Powers has lowered the recommended installation torque to 25 foot-pounds for the half-inch 5-piece.) It protects the crux moves and is the only pro between the leader and the ground. Although this rock may seem hard on the surface, it is softer underneath, so wedge bolts (the bolts with the threads sticking out) aren't the best choice.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Angel of Death (formerl... : Icy Paralyzer (5.11a)
By: George Bracksieck When: Sep 25, 2015

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Comments: Yesterday, Mike Endicott and I climbed the routes known as "Hydraulic Sandwich" and "Icy Paralyzer." We now firmly agree that Mike led "Icy" in '81, when he placed maybe a couple/three wires and one or two Friends on the whole pitch. Only four sizes of rigid-stemmed Friends were available. A #1 Friend might have been placed to the left, after exiting from the main dihedral of "DtP" onto "Icy."

We thought our 1981 route was 5.10. That's one reason that I later assumed that we had done wha... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Angel of Death (formerl... : The Angel of Death (formerl... (5.10a)
By: George Bracksieck When: Sep 25, 2015

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Comments: A few years ago, Mike and I went back. Clipping the 14 bolts, I led this climb, the top of which seemed different from what I remembered. The climb that Mike led in 1981 didn't have a #3 Friend placement at the top of the dihedral, as does this climb. As I brought Mike up, he noted that he had exited left in 1981 (on what is now known as "Icy Paralyser") where that line of bolts diverges from this one.

Yesterday, we climbed "Hydraulic Sandwich" and "Icy Paralyzer." We now firmly agree th... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Angel of Death (formerl...
By: George Bracksieck When: Sep 25, 2015

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Comments: Yesterday, no Tyrolean and no poison ivy. The previous poster may be confusing another shrub with PI.


Location: CO : Buena Vista : Pump Station : Climbers Just Want To Have ... (5.7)
By: George Bracksieck When: Sep 5, 2015

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Comments: Hi Dave —
I drove by yesterday and saw the sign. About five years ago someone posted that there was rock art and that those routes were already closed. That was a year or so before the sign appeared. Perhaps because the sign appeared, that post has since disappeared.

Perhaps the rock art has disappeared, too. I hadn't noticed it in in 2010, although I didn't know to look for it. Yesterday I tried really hard to find it, and I couldn't.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : J-Crack (5.9+)
By: George Bracksieck When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: FFA of headwall: Mike Caldwell.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lost Rock
By: George Bracksieck When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: Nothing on this page really addresses how to find the upper-middle ("Center Face") group of routes (six 50-foot climbs that begin from the same ledge). On each occasion in which I've approached and descended from the upper-left group ("Upper Tier"), I was unable to see a trace of the upper-middle group. Yesterday, we were ready to give up. Then we spied a bolt....

On the big curve in the highway, about 1/8 mile upstream from Animal World parking, we parked at the large pullout on the east (str... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : War Drums (5.9 PG13)
By: George Bracksieck When: Aug 14, 2015

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Comments: I led this four or five years ago, finding only two bolts. Sounds like the third bolt wasn't worth finding. I did find lots of placements in horizontals, using C3s up through #1 Cam. So three new bolts is more than plenty.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Heat Wave (5.9+)
By: George Bracksieck When: Aug 14, 2015

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Comments: I led this four or five years ago. The existing bolts were old and rusty; the trad gear funky; and there was no anchor. I had to build an anchor somewhere up to the right. My wife couldn't follow, so I rapped and cleaned, then scrambled around to the top to clean my anchor. I thought that it was 10-, perhaps because I, too, continued up the rotten arete. Now that it may be a better climb, I'd like to do it again.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose : Old Man Route (5.9+)
By: George Bracksieck When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: FWIW, I led Cathy Mallow up this on 6/24/78. I'd be surprised if it hadn't been climbed before.


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Tarryall Tower : Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: Hey Ken —

Did you change the photo that I left my earlier Bony Fingers comment about?

Anyway, to answer your question: Yes, Bony Fingers is on the dome on the upper right in the upper of the new pics that you posted on 9/25/14: "The Dome that overlooks the Tarryall Tower approach's hillside."


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