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Rock Climbing Photo: Hip trouble ...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact George Bell

George Bell
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Point Rank: # 67
Total Points: 6,024
Last Year: 123
Last 30 Days: 20
602 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 2593 | Routes 141 | Areas 36 | Photos 616 | Page Improvements | Comments 994 | Posts 435 | Stars 339 | Ratings 32
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Velvet Elvis (5.11a)
By: George Bell When: Nov 13, 2001

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Comments: Yes, Kreighton, I'm pretty sure you can also do the long rap in two raps with one rope. I've never heard of anyone doing this, but I believe the lengths work out fine. It is just painful "hanging out" at that hanging belay.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Willy B : Swing Time (5.7)
By: George Bell When: Nov 13, 2001

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Comments: An alternative way to finish this route is to continue up the ramp (rather than exiting right). The is easy but exposed since you are climbing above the south face. When you are below the summit itself, head up and then right to finish on the last few feet of the east face.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Willy B : East Face/Willy B (5.8 X)
By: George Bell When: Nov 13, 2001

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Comments: I do not remember this route being as acary as Warren indicates. We led the route, and you can get bombproof pro in right before the 5.8 crux, so those moves are well protected. It is true that you then have to run it out for maybe 80' on 5.6 slab climbing. A fall here would not be fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Velvet Elvis (5.11a)
By: George Bell When: Nov 12, 2001

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Comments: I should mention that if you didn't bring 2 ropes, you are not in big trouble on the descent. From the top anchor, just climb the ridge crest (5.0) for 140' to a notch. On the other side of this notch you will see 2 beefy bolts with rings for a 60' rap West to the ground.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : East Crack (5.10b)
By: George Bell When: Nov 7, 2001

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Comments: It was probably 6 years ago when I did this, but I recall the runout moves are at the start before the roof, where it is only 5.8-9. Another way to start this climb is the first pitch of Night Vision (10b, look for 2 bolts left of Huston's Crack). This is much easier than the 10d thin crack right of Huston's Crack, and doesn't require big cams and grunting like Huston's Crack.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Fluff Boy (5.13b/c)
By: George Bell When: Nov 6, 2001

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Comments: Wow, it looks impossible yet it's only 5.13b?? I'll be right on it! NOT! ;-)


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Cruisin' for Burgers (5.10c)
By: George Bell When: Nov 5, 2001

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Comments: Small pro is needed at the crux of this sucker, don't forget your RP's!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Southwest Chimney (5.4)
By: George Bell When: Nov 5, 2001

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Comments: This route is not obvious and I agree with Mike that it is best to have climbed up it before going down. However, if you are confident scrambling down easy 5th class rock and have a good eye for keeping yourself out of trouble, you will be able to find your way down this route, even if you've not done it before.

After passing through the arch mentioned in the description, look for an eye bolt. I would call it more of a tunnel than arch, it is a tunnel under an enormous boulder. You can rappe... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Saturday's Folly (5.8+)
By: George Bell When: Nov 4, 2001

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Comments: Matt, sorry for the confusion. The continuation you describe (more or less) is here listed under the route name "West Door" (the final pitch).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9+)
By: George Bell When: Nov 3, 2001

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Comments: You're right it never hurts to be extra safe. True, it is sandstone, but I always think of Castleton as some of the most solid sandstone in Utah (particularly since it has that calcite layer). It's like granite compared to some of the other sandstone I've climbed on (like the Fischers)!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9+)
By: George Bell When: Nov 1, 2001

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Comments: Ben, are you serious, why would you need to back up the belays on this route (bomber bolts)? It is a rap route, after all. And the calcite is great, it can be slippery, but it forms face holds which make the crux much easier. It also forms a hard layer which protects the softer sandstone. Would you rather be groveling up some sandy, flared, decomposing squeeze chimney?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.9)
By: George Bell When: Nov 1, 2001

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Comments: A helmet is strongly recommended on this climb as there is a lot of loose junk lying around on pitch 3 - it is very easy to knock stuff off with your rope even if careful. Of course a helmet is always a good idea in the desert, but I just thought I would mention it as this route tends to get rather crowded.


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Squat Rock : Flamingo Road (5.10a R)
By: George Bell When: Nov 1, 2001

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Comments: To play the devil's advocate, however, when there is a runout that could produce a serious fall, how hard the runout climbing is relative to the crux *does* influence the seriousness rating. For example, a 5.10 route with a 30 foot runout on 5.7 would probably not be rated s if the 5.8-5.10 moves were well protected (or Rossiter will sometimes rate it 10, (7 s), a cumbersome but informative notation. However if the same climb was 5.7 with that same 30 foot runout it would be rated s.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Chick on the Side (5.10b/c)
By: George Bell When: Oct 26, 2001

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Comments: I did this climb a few years ago and remember it as being awkward and hard 5.10 (but short). One star is about right.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Winky Woo (5.4 R)
By: George Bell When: Oct 25, 2001

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Comments: Three stars! If you have a 60m rope, you can do this climb in one pitch all the way to the ramp (Slip Slide Ledge). So no intermediate belay is needed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : East Ridge
By: George Bell When: Oct 23, 2001

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Comments: No reflection on you Michael, but I think this is a terrible name for this crag (I understand it is Rossiter's term). East Ridge of what, Nebel Horn? How can an East Ridge trend more or less North-South? I would hope we can come up with a better name for this crag.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : W.C. Fields Pinnacle : A Very Ament's Slab (5.8)
By: George Bell When: Oct 15, 2001

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Comments: Beware poisin ivy after rapping from the top. When your rope pulls, it will land in a heap right in a small patch of poison ivy. Hard to avoid this.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : East Face Right/Der Zerkle (5.7)
By: George Bell When: Oct 11, 2001

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Comments: Wow, Chris, is your variation really only 5.7? I can't recall any place going through the roof that looked that easy.

We climbed this route today and followed Rossiter's description. True, the climbing is runout on the face right of the roof, but there are some good handholds around most of the time. Eventually you can get a piece under an undercling, and the crux is doing a few layback moves on this same flake. Then it is much easier.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Hillbilly Rock
By: George Bell When: Oct 9, 2001

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Comments: Hillbilly Rock is not granite, but sandstone. Also, the upper end is now higher than 5.8 as it has two 5.12 sport routes on it's west face.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Willy B
By: George Bell When: Oct 5, 2001

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Comments: Agreed, starting rap off the top is one of the most awkward I have ever experienced. Much worse than the Maiden. At least the anchors are bomber.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Queen Anne's Head
By: George Bell When: Sep 20, 2001

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Comments: We followed this approach this morning, and I think it is easier if you stay on the Royal Arch Trail longer, at least until after it crosses the stream. If you scramble to the base of the 1911 gully, you will have to go back down to reach the start of the standard east face route on Queen Anne's Head. This area is steep and home to much poison ivy, the shortest line approach from the Royal Arch Trail is probably best!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : South Face (5.8 R)
By: George Bell When: Sep 17, 2001

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Comments: I did this route again last Thursday to see how it has changed. Two bolts were added to the third (crux) pitch since 1994. These are the second and third bolts on that pitch, which are only about 3' apart and head up diagonally right from the belay (and first bolt).

Before these bolts were placed, it was not clear which way to go. My original description (followed in my ascents in 92 and 94) goes straight up from the first bolt (the same bolt as the one in my description above). Now the new... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Bonzo (5.10c)
By: George Bell When: Sep 4, 2001

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Comments: The heat wasn't fryin' your brain! I did Chain of Command in '94, and there were no bolts on the second pitch back then, either. It is still possible to lead this pitch, protecting it using a few TCUs. You move right off the belay and then more or less straight up, as I recall (the whole pitch is less than 50' long). The hardest move is right off the belay, and there is a 2 bolt anchor to end the pitch.

I agree, Bonzo is way cool!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : East Face/Pellea (5.5 R)
By: George Bell When: Aug 30, 2001

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Comments: I climbed this route again today and it is beautiful. It is not totally obvious where to start the route, and we did it differently today. A low start is harder but no worse than the crux. This is only about 50' from the Fern Canyon trail, only 20' above the low point of the rock. A flake sticks out here, it looks like an ear. You can climb up onto the face using this ear, then traverse left and then straight up lichenous rock, bypassing a steep bulge using pockets to the left (very little ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Captain Beyond (5.10c)
By: George Bell When: Aug 29, 2001

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Comments: Yeah, I remember that wide section now (it was a few years ago that I did the route!). Thanks for adding those tips.

Another tip: if you have small hands, try wrapping an entire roll of tape around each hand for the crux! However, this may be considered aid by purists.


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