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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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George Bell
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Total Points: 6,031
Last Year: 107
Last 30 Days: 4
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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All 2604 | Routes 141 | Areas 36 | Photos 616 | Page Improvements | Comments 1001 | Posts 440 | Stars 338 | Ratings 32
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Zowie : South Face (5.8+)
By: George Bell When: Dec 21, 2001

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Comments: When I climbed this route (1998), we did go up the wide crack on the last pitch. You do not have to offwidth it (you can lieback or use face holds), EXCEPT for one four foot crux section (but this is certainly enough for serious gruntage). When you start the crux 4' section, there is good small pro just below your feet (maybe a pin, I forget). A #5 Camalot barely fits low on the crux, but it is becomes too wide to slide up (#3 BigBro might be better here).

Definitely a cool route... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Green Mountain Pinnacle : Takin' Care of Business/ We... (5.5)
By: George Bell When: Dec 18, 2001

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Comments: Good point, Warren. My guess is that it actually was a BTO concert. You can read the original story by Gerry Roach at climb.mountains.com, under Trip Reports and "The Eight Summits of Green Mountain".


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Purgatory (5.6 R)
By: George Bell When: Dec 9, 2001

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Comments: Warren [Teissier] and I climbed this on 12/9/01. A moderate size cam or two can be useful (#3-#4 Camalot) in spots (like the second belay), although they are not mandatory. Expect huge runouts in certain places, and I agree with Mike's comments about the "flexy flakes". In some spots the only (potential) pro is behind these, yet an Alien rips out easily with a good tug due to the flexiness. This route perhaps should have a "vs" seriousness rating. The rock, though, is for the mo... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Profits of Rage (5.12)
By: George Bell When: Dec 7, 2001

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Comments: Wow, once a 5.12 route, now 5.1?? Let me at it!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Satan's Slab (5.8 R)
By: George Bell When: Dec 6, 2001

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Comments: To get off the ridge from the vicinity of the house-sized boulder, sneak west through the gap just north of this giant boulder. Climb down an easy gully to a drop-off, then do a 40' rap over this drop-off to reach the gully between Satan's Slab and Angel's Way. You can scramble down (or up) this gully.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Goose : South Face (5.3)
By: George Bell When: Dec 4, 2001

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Comments: This route is shown in a photo in Rossiter's latest guide (page 65). However, I believe the line in the photo is incorrectly placed for the lower half, the route actually starts somewhat higher than indicated.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Supercrack of the Desert (5.10)
By: George Bell When: Nov 29, 2001

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Comments: Those of us with big hands find Incredible Hand Crack (IHC) technically harder. Supercrack is way enduro, but I find I can hand jam it all the way (although the start is thin hands and I am really cupped out near the anchors). The crux of IHC is short (relatively), but it is desperate thin hands for me. I have heard that IHC is slowly getting wider (and likely Supercrack too), so in 10 years or so the ratings may have to be revised!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Kamikaze Overhangs (5.8)
By: George Bell When: Nov 26, 2001

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Comments: I believe this route starts in the same place as Zig Zag but heads straight up over the first roof where Zig Zag Zigs Zright! Comprendo?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Pansee Sauvage (5.11b R)
By: George Bell When: Nov 21, 2001

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Comments: Crusher: What are "granny draws"?? Are they mandatory for Grandmother's Challenge? ;-)


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Velvet Elvis (5.11a)
By: George Bell When: Nov 13, 2001

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Comments: Yes, Kreighton, I'm pretty sure you can also do the long rap in two raps with one rope. I've never heard of anyone doing this, but I believe the lengths work out fine. It is just painful "hanging out" at that hanging belay.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Willy B : Swing Time (5.7)
By: George Bell When: Nov 13, 2001

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Comments: An alternative way to finish this route is to continue up the ramp (rather than exiting right). The is easy but exposed since you are climbing above the south face. When you are below the summit itself, head up and then right to finish on the last few feet of the east face.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Willy B : East Face/Willy B (5.8 X)
By: George Bell When: Nov 13, 2001

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Comments: I do not remember this route being as acary as Warren indicates. We led the route, and you can get bombproof pro in right before the 5.8 crux, so those moves are well protected. It is true that you then have to run it out for maybe 80' on 5.6 slab climbing. A fall here would not be fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Velvet Elvis (5.11a)
By: George Bell When: Nov 12, 2001

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Comments: I should mention that if you didn't bring 2 ropes, you are not in big trouble on the descent. From the top anchor, just climb the ridge crest (5.0) for 140' to a notch. On the other side of this notch you will see 2 beefy bolts with rings for a 60' rap West to the ground.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : East Crack (5.10b)
By: George Bell When: Nov 7, 2001

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Comments: It was probably 6 years ago when I did this, but I recall the runout moves are at the start before the roof, where it is only 5.8-9. Another way to start this climb is the first pitch of Night Vision (10b, look for 2 bolts left of Huston's Crack). This is much easier than the 10d thin crack right of Huston's Crack, and doesn't require big cams and grunting like Huston's Crack.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Fluff Boy (5.13b/c)
By: George Bell When: Nov 6, 2001

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Comments: Wow, it looks impossible yet it's only 5.13b?? I'll be right on it! NOT! ;-)


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Cruisin' for Burgers (5.10c)
By: George Bell When: Nov 5, 2001

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Comments: Small pro is needed at the crux of this sucker, don't forget your RP's!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Southwest Chimney (5.4)
By: George Bell When: Nov 5, 2001

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Comments: This route is not obvious and I agree with Mike that it is best to have climbed up it before going down. However, if you are confident scrambling down easy 5th class rock and have a good eye for keeping yourself out of trouble, you will be able to find your way down this route, even if you've not done it before.

After passing through the arch mentioned in the description, look for an eye bolt. I would call it more of a tunnel than arch, it is a tunnel under an enormous boulder. You can rappe... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Saturday's Folly (5.8+)
By: George Bell When: Nov 4, 2001

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Comments: Matt, sorry for the confusion. The continuation you describe (more or less) is here listed under the route name "West Door" (the final pitch).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.9)
By: George Bell When: Nov 1, 2001

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Comments: A helmet is strongly recommended on this climb as there is a lot of loose junk lying around on pitch 3 - it is very easy to knock stuff off with your rope even if careful. Of course a helmet is always a good idea in the desert, but I just thought I would mention it as this route tends to get rather crowded.


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Squat Rock : Flamingo Road (5.10a R)
By: George Bell When: Nov 1, 2001

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Comments: To play the devil's advocate, however, when there is a runout that could produce a serious fall, how hard the runout climbing is relative to the crux *does* influence the seriousness rating. For example, a 5.10 route with a 30 foot runout on 5.7 would probably not be rated s if the 5.8-5.10 moves were well protected (or Rossiter will sometimes rate it 10, (7 s), a cumbersome but informative notation. However if the same climb was 5.7 with that same 30 foot runout it would be rated s.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Chick on the Side (5.10b/c)
By: George Bell When: Oct 26, 2001

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Comments: I did this climb a few years ago and remember it as being awkward and hard 5.10 (but short). One star is about right.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Winky Woo (5.4 R)
By: George Bell When: Oct 25, 2001

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Comments: Three stars! If you have a 60m rope, you can do this climb in one pitch all the way to the ramp (Slip Slide Ledge). So no intermediate belay is needed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : East Ridge
By: George Bell When: Oct 23, 2001

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Comments: No reflection on you Michael, but I think this is a terrible name for this crag (I understand it is Rossiter's term). East Ridge of what, Nebel Horn? How can an East Ridge trend more or less North-South? I would hope we can come up with a better name for this crag.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : W.C. Fields Pinnacle : A Very Ament's Slab (5.8)
By: George Bell When: Oct 15, 2001

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Comments: Beware poisin ivy after rapping from the top. When your rope pulls, it will land in a heap right in a small patch of poison ivy. Hard to avoid this.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : East Face Right/Der Zerkle (5.7)
By: George Bell When: Oct 11, 2001

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Comments: Wow, Chris, is your variation really only 5.7? I can't recall any place going through the roof that looked that easy.

We climbed this route today and followed Rossiter's description. True, the climbing is runout on the face right of the roof, but there are some good handholds around most of the time. Eventually you can get a piece under an undercling, and the crux is doing a few layback moves on this same flake. Then it is much easier.


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