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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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All 2538 | Routes 141 | Areas 36 | Photos 601 | Page Improvements | Comments 968 | Posts 423 | Stars 337 | Ratings 32
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : East Face (Standard) (5.4)
By: George Bell When: 3 days ago

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Comments: I did some rough measurements today between eye-bolts and here are the results. This Photo (Copy) has the correct location of all 6 eye-bolts. These numbers assume you follow a pretty straight line between eye-bolts.

Start to 1st eye-bolt: 15m.
Start to 2nd eye-bolt: 30m.
Start to 3rd eye-bolt: 60m (awkward belay, ledge under this eye-bolt was dynamited off).
3rd to 4th eye-bolt: 30m (4th eye-bolt has the best ledge).
Most people skip the 5th eye-bolt by going straight up from the 4th.
4th to ... more >>


Location: George Bell : Random pix : Photo
By: George Bell When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: Hi, William. My hip problem was not a result of ice climbing. I believe it was genetic predisposition perhaps exacerbated by a bad fall directly on my right hip skiing (when I was 22).


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : ... : Photo
By: George Bell When: Aug 20, 2015

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Comments: Very cool! BTW, the spelling in the description should be "plaque".


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : East Face (Standard) (5.4)
By: George Bell When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: For a nice direct finish (shown in this Photo (Copy)), from the last eye-bolt climb north down into the gully and up the other side, then head directly (west) towards the summit. This finishes on Extra Point or College Drop Out aka East Face North Side and is slightly harder than the standard route. The main problem is that you can't make it from the eye-bolt to the summit in one pitch, and there is a lack of intermediate belay anchors. We belayed maybe 50 feet after the eye bolt but still couldn't quite make the summit... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Friday's Folly (5.7)
By: George Bell When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: Now that the piton is gone, the start of this route is more serious (and I suppose if the pin was lousy, it was always serious). A significant fall is possible if you blow the first (and most difficult) move of the pitch and your pro fails. Because the terrain drops off to the right, a fall here could be much longer than you might think. Be sure to anchor the belayer so that both climbers do not get pulled to the right and down into the gully.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cloud's Rest : My Favorite Things (5.10a)
By: George Bell When: Jun 18, 2015

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Comments: Bummer ... looks like rocks also favor this route, rolling down that is.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Second Flatiron : Freezeway (5.7 X)
By: George Bell When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: Where is this route relative to North Crack?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: George Bell When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Does anybody know why this chimney is called "stolen"? Did Sibley and Roos steal the FA from under Harvey Carter's nose, or what?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra : Photo
By: George Bell When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Sad, now reduced to a 3rd class rating ...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Photo
By: George Bell When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: A photo no longer possible to take ...


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Buckingham Route (easy vers... (5.8)
By: George Bell When: Feb 5, 2015

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Comments: I think it's confusing to say the "route doesn't go all the way to the summit of Snowpatch". It would be better to say the "route ends at the lower (North) summit of Snowpatch Spire."

In 1985 I climbed a route called in the guidebook the "NW Corner" of Snowpatch Spire. It sounds like this route but I am not sure. I seem to remember a plastic flamingo on the N Summit (or maybe it was the main summit?)!


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Photo
By: George Bell When: Jan 22, 2015

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Comments: Strangely, we did climb the Grand that day, but an easier route than we were planning. Despite high winds and cold (for August), it was an OK day.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Mount Rainier : Gibraltar Ledges (AI1-2 Mod. Snow)
By: George Bell When: Oct 10, 2014

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Comments: This route is one of the shortest between Camp Muir and the Summit, and for this reason I have climbed it twice. It is exposed to rockfall, this motivated us to go even faster. I would recommend it to small, experienced parties if the route is in good condition. Both times I went down the Disappointment Cleaver route.

I'm not sure there is any reason to abbreviate the name, I have always called the route "Gibraltar Ledges". The abbreviation makes this page harder to find using search engine... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon and Tioga... : Dana Plateau : Third Pillar, Regular Route (5.10a)
By: George Bell When: Aug 21, 2014

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Comments: > What aspect does the climb face?

As I recall it faces primarily East. Maybe more like NE?


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : Dallas Peak
By: George Bell When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: I tried to climb it via the west ridge once and encountered some of the loosest rock I had ever seen. Giant stacks of dinner plates ready to plummet at the slightest touch.


Location: George Bell : Mountain art : Photo
By: George Bell When: Aug 13, 2014

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Comments: It is the last pitch of the Center Route on Hallett Peak.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Little Bear Peak
By: George Bell When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: At the end of one trip we hiked down the Lake Como Road and passed some gnarly, highly modified jeeps grappling with the boulderfields just below the lake. They were also headed down but very slowly. There are several places along this road where I don't understand how ANY vehicle can pass. A few times I have been tempted to wait just to see how they do it.

Anyway, to make a long story short, turns out we beat these vehicles to our car, which was parked fairly low down. In other words, it i... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Northwest Ridge (5.4 X)
By: George Bell When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: I don't agree that this climb should have an 'X' rating. The rating should assume all class 4 and 5 climbing is done roped, basically the entire ridge. To receive an 'X' rating at least one pitch must be entirely unprotected. I do not think this is the case, I remember quite a lot of pro possibilities on every pitch. When I climbed it another party had bailed off the day before, and we recovered over 10 stoppers and a lot of webbing from the climb.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Alberta : Banff National Park : ... : Bourgeau Left-Hand (WI5)
By: George Bell When: Jul 20, 2014

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Comments: There is also some avalanche danger below the climb, as we found out in 1996. On the approach we had to climb over a wall of snow 20 feet high soon after leaving the parking lot. It turns out this was not due to plowing the parking lot but by a significant avalanche which had started below the climb and run down into the trees bordering the parking lot.

The recent avalanche made the approach easier, and we completed the climb without incident. However, someone at the ski area noticed the fre... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : Alberta : North Ghost : The Sorcerer (WI5)
By: George Bell When: Jul 20, 2014

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Comments: Here are notes from my ascent in 1996:
"2/11 long day on the Sorcerer (WI5, 4 pitches): leave Canmore Hostel 6AM, leave car 8:30, start first ice lead after much post-holing 12:00, top out 6:00, back to car 10:40, get stuck 11:00, get stuck 11:30, nearly hit moose 12:30, reach hostel 2:00AM!"


Location: Alpine Climbing & Mountaine... : Survive an Unplanned Bivy
By: George Bell When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: The first time I went climbing in the summer in Yosemite, I brought none of this and the inevitable happened. We were benighted in T-Shirts! This could have easily developed into a life-threatening situation, but I emptied my pack at the top of the climb and out dropped a lighter. Where did that come from? Anyway, this one item turned what would have been an agonizing cold night into an innocuous night around a campfire. From then on I always remember to carry (at least) a lighter.


Location: Alpine Climbing & Mountaine... : Traveling on a Rope Team
By: George Bell When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: One of the most difficult decisions in mountaineering is when to wear crampons. Most people err on the side of caution, and they always wear crampons when they are on snow (or ice). Many beginners think crampons are "cool" and make them feel like real mountaineers, and they don crampons as soon as they see snow.

Wearing crampons when the conditions don't require them is actually more dangerous. Wet snow can ball up in the crampons, causing you to slip. Falling on snow is also more dangerous... more >>


Location: Climbing Skills : How to Simul-Rappel
By: George Bell When: Jul 11, 2014

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Comments: I don't think Simul-Rappeling is worth the extra risk. Rappelling is tricky enough, and this doubles the load on the anchor. There are many things that can go wrong, and rapping on a single rope there is less friction that you may be used to. I am sure it is fun to read about these advanced techniques, but I have done hundreds of raps and never felt the need to try a simul-rap.

The only time I would advocate simul-rap is when there is no other way, like descending off an arch or spire. Even... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : Photo
By: George Bell When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: Removed in Photoshop, just for fun. The original is this Photo.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : East Face (Standard) (5.4)
By: George Bell When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: Sanz, you can downclimb Southwest Chimney, it's much shorter than downclimbing the route.


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