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Member Since: Apr 12, 2007
Last Visit: Nov 11, 2014
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Point Rank: # 1,060
Total Points: 596
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 602 | Routes 43 | Areas 2 | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 51 | Posts 6 | Stars 376 | Ratings 107
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : Montage (5.12d)
By: GeoffElson When: Apr 8, 2012

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Comments: That's good enough for me, I updated the info. Can't wait to get back on it.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Moving Out (5.12b)
By: GeoffElson When: Sep 17, 2011

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Comments: I am relieved to hear the cast of characters above discussing the difficulty but goodness of this route, as I go my a** handed to me on my first session. I agree this is easily the hardest 12b in the Canyon and would hold the grade almost anywhere. Really fun, difficult, and technical climbing, a most do.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Question Authority (5.12a)
By: GeoffElson When: Apr 9, 2011

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Comments: Super short but the movement is really fun. The third clip is a bit scary, it's a stretch for me at 5'9", decking is a real possibility on a blown clip. Hanging draws makes it a lot safer and easier.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Alderfer/Three Sisters Park : Sisters/Hidden Fawn Boulder... : Pachyderm Boulder : Huge Mammal (V6)
By: GeoffElson When: Feb 12, 2011

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Comments: Not exactly year round, snow collects on top out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : Face Full of Brian (V8)
By: GeoffElson When: Jan 28, 2011

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Comments:
  • Onsighters beware, beta
I find that the easiest beta is to start with both hands low in the underclings as usual, then go left hand to the far left crimp-rail, move your right foot to where your left foot was, flag your left foot way out, and grab the sidepull arete with your right hand (don't worry about getting in the undercling pocket just yet). So, now bring your left heel to match your left hand on the crimp-rail and fall into the terrible sloper with your left. Bear down on th... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Presto (5.12c)
By: GeoffElson When: Aug 5, 2010

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Comments: The last bolt hanger has spun, was unable to spin back, and is bending from the wall a bit and it's a thinner hanger to begin with.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Mt. Evans Bouldering : Area A : ... : Pink Fink (V7 PG13)
By: GeoffElson When: Jul 14, 2010

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Comments: PG-13, only if you have no friends.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House : The Reward aka Convicted Fe... (5.12b)
By: GeoffElson When: May 27, 2010

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Comments: It looks like at some point it was updated, there are permanent heavy duty biners on the lowering chains. I don't know anything about the history of the route this could have been the original bolt spacing but the lower section is over protected. Twice I was able to unclip the draw below and move it up to the next bolt.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House : The Reward aka Convicted Fe... (5.12b)
By: GeoffElson When: May 22, 2010

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Comments: The rebolting seems to be a bit excessive. Safer than the gym.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Matthews-Winters Park : The Millenium Boulder : Ghost Dance (crimp start) (V7)
By: GeoffElson When: Mar 16, 2010

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Comments: Agreed.


Location: MI : Grand Ledge : Ludwig's Dude (5.10)
By: GeoffElson When: Nov 25, 2009

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Comments: The bottom 2/3's is some of the best quality climbing and rock at the ledges. The climb has unexpected beta and keeps you thinking every time you climb it.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : New Joe's : The Closet : Roll the Dice (V5)
By: GeoffElson When: Nov 16, 2009

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Comments: Agreed this is an eliminate problem, the lower section is very fun however.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Extension Boulder : West Face [Extension Boulde... (V3) : Photo
By: GeoffElson When: Nov 7, 2009

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Comments: This photo sums up very well how tall this thing feels. A very flat landing on pads and it still hurts your feet!


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Extension Boulder : Sunshine (V6)
By: GeoffElson When: Nov 7, 2009

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Comments: A bit soft for V6 not harder than Sloper Chief and Kauna Roof, a bit closer to V6 if you stay on the crimps on the left hand face.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Ontario : Thunder Bay, Ontario
By: GeoffElson When: Oct 12, 2009

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Comments:
  • This needs to be reorganized so sub areas are accepted under the Thunder Bay link.



Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Directissima (5.10b)
By: GeoffElson When: Aug 1, 2009

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Comments: Agreed linking 1 and 2 with a 70m works great, nearly all 70m's are used, just head up for the obvious yellow sling belay.
We laced up our rock shoes at the base of the slab, and pulled many 5.0 moves with no rope to get the base of the climb, didn't see a way get to the base casually. I couldn't get my #4 BD C4 to work well in the squeeze chimney/offwith on the third pitch, instead I used a big old #11 BD hex worked great, FYI there are now 3 fixed 4 so careful with your 4 if you ha... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Unknown at New River (5.9+)
By: GeoffElson When: Jul 29, 2009

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Comments: In the event that you find yourself needing to climb this good but very unremarkable short route, I would recommend top belaying and lower down the climber. Leading this route is completely useless and unnecessary.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : The Gill Boulder : North Face Mantle (V2)
By: GeoffElson When: Jul 17, 2009

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Comments: I am not sure what this is called, please comment and suggest a grade.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : High Gravity aka Slots (V3)
By: GeoffElson When: Jun 25, 2009

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Comments: This can be done via a super low start, kinda gimmicky, but adds fun moves and crazy beta. Left hand on the left face below the double pockets and right hand on the low corner of the arete, it goes around V5. Most likely too cramped for the taller folks.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Thank Heaven for Little Gir... (5.10d)
By: GeoffElson When: May 20, 2009

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Comments: Agreed. I didn't see the moves and went left, too bad.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Fragile (5.10c)
By: GeoffElson When: May 20, 2009

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Comments: Bolting this as a "10c" is trying to force something that isn't there. Should have bolted it as a 5.8 arete climb.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Matthews-Winters Park : The Millenium Boulder : Hickey's V7 (V7)
By: GeoffElson When: Apr 21, 2009

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Comments: So to be clear, is the submitter describing what j.jaeger called Thunderhead? And is Hickey's and Cannibal Dance the same thing, both going straight up and not meeting Purity Control/Pocket Problem.

So this entry should be changed to Thunderhead and new entry should be created for Hickey's/Cannibal Dance.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The North End
By: GeoffElson When: Apr 15, 2009

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Comments: Can some elaborate on how to get there for people who don't have the new guide?


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Double Arete (V5)
By: GeoffElson When: Apr 2, 2009

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Comments: I am confused by this problem. The name is double arete so is it fair to assume the left arete is "on" for your left hand? I started the problem with both hands low on the right arete, then went really low with my left to a jug then on to the left arete and worked my left up the left arete and my right up the rigth arete . The confusion comes when doing the problem this way there is no way it is V5 or V6, am I doing it wrong or is the problem soft?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Pebble Boulder : Strege Problem (V5)
By: GeoffElson When: Feb 26, 2009

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Comments: Agreed, slopers are great, especially with Flagstaff's high friction.


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