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Location: MI : Grand Ledge : Ludwig's Dude (5.10)
By: geoffe077 When: Nov 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bottom 2/3's is some of the best quality climbing and rock at the ledges. The climb has unexpected beta and keeps you thinking every time you climb it.
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley : New Joe's : The Closet : Roll the Dice (V5)
By: geoffe077 When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed this is an eliminate problem, the lower section is very fun however.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Extension Boulder : West Face [Extension Boulde... (V3) : Photo
By: geoffe077 When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This photo sums up very well how tall this thing feels. A very flat landing on pads and it still hurts your feet!
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Extension Boulder : Sunshine (V6)
By: geoffe077 When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A bit soft for V6 not harder than Sloper Chief and Kauna Roof, a bit closer to V6 if you stay on the crimps on the left hand face.
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Location: International : Canada : Ontario : Thunder Bay, Ontario
By: geoffe077 When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: - This needs to be reorganized so sub areas are accepted under the Thunder Bay link.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Directissima (5.10b)
By: geoffe077 When: Aug 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed linking 1 and 2 with a 70m works great, nearly all 70m's are used, just head up for the obvious yellow sling belay.
We laced up our rock shoes at the base of the slab, and pulled many 5.0 moves with no rope to get the base of the climb, didn't see a way get to the base casually. I couldn't get my #4 BD C4 to work well in the squeeze chimney/offwith on the third pitch, instead I used a big old #11 BD hex worked great, FYI there are now 3 fixed 4 so careful with your 4 if you ha... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Unknown at New River (5.9+)
By: geoffe077 When: Jul 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: In the event that you find yourself needing to climb this good but very unremarkable short route, I would recommend top belaying and lower down the climber. Leading this route is completely useless and unnecessary.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : The Great Escape (5.12c)
By: geoffe077 When: Jul 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The last bolt under the lip is getting really bad, and the gate on the biner is bent and doesn't shut all way, I literally kicked the rope out of it, sketch. Unfortunately I was unable to reach biner on the way down so I couldn't replace it. If you are planning on doing this bring up a draw and clip into the chain draw on your way up, and replace the biner on your way down, much thanks. I should have planned better and done it myself.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Gill Boulder : North Face Mantle (V3)
By: geoffe077 When: Jul 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am not sure what this is called, please comment and suggest a grade.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : High Gravity (V3)
By: geoffe077 When: Jun 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This can be done via a super low start, kinda gimmicky, but adds fun moves and crazy beta. Left hand on the left face below the double pockets and right hand on the low corner of the arete, it goes around V5. Most likely too cramped for the taller folks.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Thank Heaven for Little Gir... (5.10d)
By: geoffe077 When: May 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed. I didn't see the moves and went left, too bad.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Fragile (5.10c)
By: geoffe077 When: May 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolting this as a "10c" is trying to force something that isn't there. Should have bolted it as a 5.8 arete climb.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Matthews-Winters Park : The Millenium Boulder : Hickey's V7 (V7)
By: geoffe077 When: Apr 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: So to be clear, is the submitter describing what j.jaeger called Thunderhead? And is Hickey's and Cannibal Dance the same thing, both going straight up and not meeting Purity Control/Pocket Problem.
So this entry should be changed to Thunderhead and new entry should be created for Hickey's/Cannibal Dance.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The North End
By: geoffe077 When: Apr 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can some elaborate on how to get there for people who don't have the new guide?
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Double Arete (V6)
By: geoffe077 When: Apr 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am confused by this problem. The name is double arete so is it fair to assume the left arete is "on" for your left hand? I started the problem with both hands low on the right arete, then went really low with my left to a jug then on to the left arete and worked my left up the left arete and my right up the rigth arete . The confusion comes when doing the problem this way there is no way it is V5 or V6, am I doing it wrong or is the problem soft?
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Bouldering (mile marker 268... : Mavericks Boulder : Mavericks (V5)
By: geoffe077 When: Mar 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You had a great day when you got on it, I guess.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Pebble Boulder : Strege Problem (V5)
By: geoffe077 When: Feb 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed, slopers are great, especially with Flagstaff's high friction.
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Location: MI : Grand Ledge
By: geoffe077 When: Feb 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The fore mentioned egos refer to future prospective climbers and not past posters. I found I could only have fun at Grand Ledge with my ego left in the car.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Red Wall : Eric Varney Direct (V5)
By: geoffe077 When: Feb 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Edit to previous, not impossible with the dish. The foot beta is way right. Also the flagstaffblogspot guide says either crimp or dish and I agree they seem about the same.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Bouldering : Nine Lives Arete (V5)
By: geoffe077 When: Jan 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a stunning problem with fun movement but nowhere near V5. I cringe at my own grade squabbling, but compared to V5s in the rest of the Front Range it is considerably easier. As the submitter stated above be vary mindful of erosion and human impact while finding this boulder, it is a gem but really hard to locate. It might be best to have someone who has been to the problem before show you the way to minimize the disturbance.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Bouldering : Cave Direct (V6)
By: geoffe077 When: Jan 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where is the start exactly for the V6 at the rail straight below or on the low left rail? Also reading at http://castlewoodcanyonbouldering.blogspot.com/, the author says that a dab on the boulder doesn't invalidate the climb is this what most people agree to or have most of you figured out a way not to dab?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Red Wall : Eric Varney Direct (V5)
By: geoffe077 When: Jan 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I second that question, it seems hard with the crimp but impossible with the slick dish.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Table Top Area : Table Top (5.10b)
By: geoffe077 When: Jan 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't be scared off if you don't have gear, it's only necessary for the most faint of heart.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff
By: geoffe077 When: Nov 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The guide is crazy comprehensive, great job, really well done.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : King Conquerer : Conquerer Traverse (V6)
By: geoffe077 When: Nov 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some beta if you want it. There is a real good left leg knee bar while you have your left hand on the double in cut pinch/crimp at the first hand jam. From here reach right hand low on the rail bump to the better spot and then bump a final time to the top of the rail. Hope that makes a bit of sense.
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