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Rock Climbing Photo: the starting layback on the first ascent.


Member Since: Feb 8, 2010
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact geoff georges

Point Rank: # 130
Total Points: 3,934
Last Year: 682
Last 30 Days: 5
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has geoff georges been climbing?










Contributions


All 3432 | Routes 261 | Areas 17 | Photos 116 | Page Improvements 5 | Comments 474 | Posts 42 | Stars 1392 | Ratings 1125
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Supercrack of the Desert (5.10) : Photo
By: geoff georges When: Sep 23, 2016

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Comments: that is sad, nice artwork.I remember climbing it before and after seeing that plaque, only thought that someone would steal it, sad that someone broke it.


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : The Bend : Bend North : Dancing Bear (5.10b)
By: geoff georges When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: I entered it as 10b because that was the rating given by the first ascent. For some reason all the routes on this face are really hard for their given ratings when compared to the West Bend routes and Royal Columns. But I think it is fair, most ratings are soft in Wa., we just need to humble ourselves, or get better. But I did add that I think it is 10+.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Rattletale (5.10b)
By: geoff georges When: Sep 9, 2016

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Comments: there is no longer a #4 in 3rd pitch, but as a whole the route is cleaner as of Sept. 2016


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Steel Pulse (5.10c)
By: geoff georges When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments: cleaned 1st pitch labor day weekend 2016.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : The Nose, of Jello Tower (5.10d)
By: geoff georges When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: first ascent: Fred and Don Wilde, 1950. It is listed incorrectly in Kramar's book. Ed Cooper confirms this as he was not yet climbing in 50 or 52.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Club Paradiso / The Actual ... : Trappline (5.10a)
By: geoff georges When: Aug 31, 2016

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Comments: the bolting and grade may be different then other X38 climbs because this wall was the first bolted out there.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Liberty Bell : Serpentine Crack (5.11)
By: geoff georges When: Aug 25, 2016

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Comments: even with the fixed #3 it would be nice to have 3) #3 for this crux overhanging crack. Agreed that 1) #4 is good at the roof. There is not much small gear on this route. best to double up on #.5 - #2, with 3) #3. There are some small cam and nut options.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Wild Turkey (5.11a)
By: geoff georges When: Aug 24, 2016

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Comments: Greg, yeah it just makes sense to me that you would have continued up the same crack, it is good and protects well, actually the easiest part of the climb- don't know why McClain gives it a 11b. For me the climb is at least 11a overall.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Law and Order (5.10a)
By: geoff georges When: Aug 18, 2016

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Comments: I would say that one needs to lead these cracks with a nut tool to clean for placements. I have completely cleaned this section like 3 times, it just fills with needles. there are many blue-green Alien placements there, no need for a bolt. Also I think the anchor is fine, not every route has to have a 60 or 70m rap.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Middle Town Walls : Mid Wall
By: geoff georges When: Aug 18, 2016

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Comments: Slim, no, the fixed rope left of Winky is mine, there is a steep narrow gully right of Winky that has or had a fixed rope.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Substation : You're only nice to me when... (5.10d)
By: geoff georges When: Aug 18, 2016

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Comments: the way Burdo wrote it, seems appropriate since everything X38 is kinda messed up.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Far Side : Winter Block : Bamboozled (5.10+)
By: geoff georges When: Aug 16, 2016

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Comments: Serge, looks like you get 2nd ascent.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : The Black Book (5.11a)
By: geoff georges When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: Description
I first climbed this by mistake, as it is on the ledge near Bullet heads east and looked good. Harder then it looks from below. Moving left and sticking fingers is a crux but even harder above that is about 2/3 way up another thin bit was the crux for me.

Location
From left to right on Bullethead ledge:
1) Mystery route ( maybe 10a, worth doing)
2) Bullet heads east 10b/c
3) Rainy Day Woman- splits off start of BHE, 11a/b
4) Black Book
5) Triptoe, 5.7

Protecti... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Wild Turkey (5.11a)
By: geoff georges When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: Greg, how did you guys do the top bit after the sloping ledge with the only jug on the whole route? Was it the left slanting dyke,that the books call R- for the slab top, the central crack- they call 11b, maybe more like 11a? Seems unlikely you would have gone further right to next crack.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Middle Town Walls : Mid Wall
By: geoff georges When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: I did the fixed rope approach again that is left of the Dihedral wall ( above Princely Ambitions) and right of Winky Dinky. I strongly advise not to go this way, too dangerous to knock loose stuff onto cliff below. I was up there in the winter when I was pretty sure nobody would be below.


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : The Bend : Bend North : Heartbreak of Psoriacis (5.10+)
By: geoff georges When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: Quite good, thanks Andy. Just the usual trying to figure out what ratings are what. For Wa. I think Tieton is pretty on target, and many areas are soft ( over-rated).


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : The Bend : Bend North : Heartbreak of Psoriacis (5.10+)
By: geoff georges When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: ratings are subjective, but I think I have a pretty good grasp of 5.10 ratings as they compare to climbing in other areas, particularly older crags where the YDS came from like Yosemite, J-Tree , etc. So if this is 10b- which I think it could be, then all the 10c's over on the west side of the bend are 10b's and Local knowledge , Seizure and Reckoning are 10a, Salmon Song, MX and Treatment bound are all 5.9.- which I think is fair.


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : The Bend : Bend North : Libretto (5.10a)
By: geoff georges When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: mostly a thin finger crack, with gear to 2" up near the top.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Amazonia : Iguanarama (5.10a)
By: geoff georges When: Jun 21, 2016

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Comments: nice Scott, I had been planning to at least do this anchor if not others, looked so manky. Love those washer stacks and rusty bolts! how it it come out? or did you leave the old bolts?


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Solitude (5.11c/d)
By: geoff georges When: Jun 17, 2016

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Comments: no, not the variation, actually the flake just above Derek in the picture is what I fell off of. But I did TR the variation after rapping from the top. It is really good, very, very dirty- anyone ever climb it before?
Now I understand Michal is referring to this variation when he says cut back right, was confused.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Noodle (5.11a)
By: geoff georges When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: Somewhere I have a picture of a bolt sprouting out of a sea of moss.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Wild Turkey (5.7)
By: geoff georges When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: I was also planning to clean this. Not complaining, glad you got to it, looked like so much work. I left my little pick axe up there near Seniors, if you picked it up, or if anyone else does please bring it back.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Solitude (5.11c/d)
By: geoff georges When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: Hi Jon, I thought I would answer your question about P5. I don't think any move harder then 11a. I took a fall trying to get up to the corner I think where in the picture someone describes as 10b crux. I was about 6' above a #3, layback up a blunt downturned flake. I was not seeing any pro available, tried to reverse the moves, slipped and ran down the slab. It has some insecure pulling on features, which is more intimidating then hard. Once I got ba... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : The Big Easy (5.10a/b)
By: geoff georges When: Jun 9, 2016

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Comments: rileyrice, I think you made the 2nd ascent, glad you liked it, did you do the chimney to top, or split left for finger crack?


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : The Parasol
By: geoff georges When: Jun 9, 2016

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Comments: Hi Cat, whats the first ascent info here?


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