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Rock Climbing Photo: the starting layback on the first ascent.


Member Since: Feb 8, 2010
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact geoff georges

Point Rank: # 130
Total Points: 3,925
Last Year: 918
Last 30 Days: 176
9 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has geoff georges been climbing?










Contributions


All 3418 | Routes 261 | Areas 17 | Photos 116 | Page Improvements 5 | Comments 465 | Posts 42 | Stars 1390 | Ratings 1122
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : The Black Book (5.11a)
By: geoff georges When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: Description
I first climbed this by mistake, as it is on the ledge near Bullet heads east and looked good. Harder then it looks from below. Moving left and sticking fingers is a crux but even harder above that is about 2/3 way up another thin bit was the crux for me.

Location
From left to right on Bullethead ledge:
1) Mystery route ( maybe 10a, worth doing)
2) Bullet heads east 10b/c
3) Rainy Day Woman- splits off start of BHE, 11a/b
4) Black Book
5) Triptoe, 5.7

Protecti... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Wild Turkey (5.11a)
By: geoff georges When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: Greg, how did you guys do the top bit after the sloping ledge with the only jug on the whole route? Was it the left slanting dyke,that the books call R- for the slab top, the central crack- they call 11b, maybe more like 11a? Seems unlikely you would have gone further right to next crack.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Middle Town Walls : Mid Wall
By: geoff georges When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: I did the fixed rope approach again that is left of the Dihedral wall ( above Princely Ambitions) and right of Winky Dinky. I strongly advise not to go this way, too dangerous to knock loose stuff onto cliff below. I was up there in the winter when I was pretty sure nobody would be below.


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : The Bend : Bend North : Heartbreak of Psoriacis (5.10+)
By: geoff georges When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: Quite good, thanks Andy. Just the usual trying to figure out what ratings are what. For Wa. I think Tieton is pretty on target, and many areas are soft ( over-rated).


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : The Bend : Bend North : Heartbreak of Psoriacis (5.10+)
By: geoff georges When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: ratings are subjective, but I think I have a pretty good grasp of 5.10 ratings as they compare to climbing in other areas, particularly older crags where the YDS came from like Yosemite, J-Tree , etc. So if this is 10b- which I think it could be, then all the 10c's over on the west side of the bend are 10b's and Local knowledge , Seizure and Reckoning are 10a, Salmon Song, MX and Treatment bound are all 5.9.- which I think is fair.


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : The Bend : Bend North : Libretto (5.10a)
By: geoff georges When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: mostly a thin finger crack, with gear to 2" up near the top.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Amazonia : Iguanarama (5.10a)
By: geoff georges When: Jun 21, 2016

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Comments: nice Scott, I had been planning to at least do this anchor if not others, looked so manky. Love those washer stacks and rusty bolts! how it it come out? or did you leave the old bolts?


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Solitude (5.11c/d)
By: geoff georges When: Jun 17, 2016

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Comments: no, not the variation, actually the flake just above Derek in the picture is what I fell off of. But I did TR the variation after rapping from the top. It is really good, very, very dirty- anyone ever climb it before?
Now I understand Michal is referring to this variation when he says cut back right, was confused.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Noodle (5.11a)
By: geoff georges When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: Somewhere I have a picture of a bolt sprouting out of a sea of moss.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Wild Turkey (5.7)
By: geoff georges When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: I was also planning to clean this. Not complaining, glad you got to it, looked like so much work. I left my little pick axe up there near Seniors, if you picked it up, or if anyone else does please bring it back.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Solitude (5.11c/d)
By: geoff georges When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: Hi Jon, I thought I would answer your question about P5. I don't think any move harder then 11a. I took a fall trying to get up to the corner I think where in the picture someone describes as 10b crux. I was about 6' above a #3, layback up a blunt downturned flake. I was not seeing any pro available, tried to reverse the moves, slipped and ran down the slab. It has some insecure pulling on features, which is more intimidating then hard. Once I got ba... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : The Big Easy (5.10a/b)
By: geoff georges When: Jun 9, 2016

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Comments: rileyrice, I think you made the 2nd ascent, glad you liked it, did you do the chimney to top, or split left for finger crack?


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : The Parasol
By: geoff georges When: Jun 9, 2016

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Comments: Hi Cat, whats the first ascent info here?


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Malamute : Cider Crack (5.10a)
By: geoff georges When: Jun 7, 2016

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Comments: everyone has different styles of climbing, but if this is 5.9, then High mtn woody is 5.8, as well as Pauls crack. This is technically harder then Penny Lane or any 5.9 at the Smokebluffs. Great pitch what ever it is.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Jingus the Cat (5.10)
By: geoff georges When: Jun 7, 2016

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Comments: thanks Mark, I wondered if it was you after the machete comment. We wandered up there last year and did not get on it, got on it now and well did not send, that top out is a burly surprise after all that lay-back. If quagmire, squam butt, grub street, peasants, cresent, maƱana, east bulletheads are 10c then this is too, otherwise they are all 10b too.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Area : Snow Creek Wall : White Slabs (5.7 PG13)
By: geoff georges When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: It is slippery because it is a huge waterfall throughout the winter season, probably for at least a few thousand years.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Area
By: geoff georges When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: Hi Slim, there is not really a trail anymore, but pretty open, not too bush-wacky, easy to see where the main wall is and at which point you will cut off from switch backs. The big boulder mentioned in the book is very obvious. What usually happens is you find the better trail on your way out.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Tumwater Mountain Crest
By: geoff georges When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: we had the entire SUV covered in scratches, and pretty frayed nerves. I like having 4X4, but don't really enjoy that kind of driving, scarier then the climbing. It is not all that bad compared to some hair razing drives down around Moab, but it is narrow with some big air below the tires.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Duty Dome - Warrior Wall - ... : Off Duty : Slap (5.9)
By: geoff georges When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: yes, gear is useful, and then there is getting to the first bolt, and ground fall potential getting to the 2nd bolt, all doable, just don't fall.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Duty Dome - Warrior Wall - ... : Off Duty : Aquamarine (5.10a)
By: geoff georges When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: agreed it is quality, and fun to climb as one pitch. I used a few very small cams to #.5, the #2 can be placed at a somewhat worrisome flake, but smaller gear works too.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Grand Daddy Overhang (5.11)
By: geoff georges When: May 24, 2016

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Comments: FA : Dick Culbert, Eric Lance: 1967
FFA : Peter Croft, Tami Knight ; 1979


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Purina and Careno Area : Purina Crags : El Caliente (5.8)
By: geoff georges When: May 24, 2016

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Comments: this now has chain on the anchor.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : Cat Burglar (5.6)
By: geoff georges When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: I think what everyone is missing is that in 1957 standing on your belayers shoulders or hands was standard practice. I got it myself, but being 6' 2" helps. I also went up the 5.9 first time, backed down and went around the corner- all seemed 5.6-5.7.


Location: WA : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Sunshine Wall : Near End of Sunshine Wall (... : Puppies in the Blender (5.10c)
By: geoff georges When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: We were wondering where you were. Vantage now? was it the rain in 11wurt ?
No offense taken, but it's Vantage, didn't seem that bad to me. I tried to pry that block out, it seems to be wedged. Now, Bob Dylan ( the route ) scares me more, those stacked blocks at the top- yikes.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Rattlesnake Rock : Bite Me (5.10a)
By: geoff georges When: May 18, 2016

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Comments: Wow , mystery solved, and I thought it was Jim Yoder.
So, is the 10a grade good?


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