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Member Since: Nov 7, 2010
Last Visit: Jul 24, 2014
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Point Rank: # 6,719
Total Points: 48
Last Year: 11
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 141 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 5 | Page Improvements | Comments 13 | Posts | Stars 112 | Ratings 10

Contributed Comments

 

Location: AL : Sand Rock : The New Wall. aka Kurt Russ...
By: Geissler Golding When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: There is a route not listed here which was added somewhat recently by Johnny. It's the first line on the second block. It's unnamed and goes at 10+/11a-ish. Also I don't know where the name "Kurt Russell" for this wall comes from - I do know it's referred to as the "New" wall...


Location: AL : Sand Rock : The New Wall. aka Kurt Russ... : fat boy (5.8)
By: Geissler Golding When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Just climbed this last Saturday (11/9/2013) with Johnny Arms. He mentioned that this route should be called "Fat Boy". Just passing it along. He's got a story. :-)


Location: AL : Sand Rock : The New Wall. aka Kurt Russ... : Jugs (5.8+)
By: Geissler Golding When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Try to stay in-line w/ the bolts! There is a definite possibility of breaking off a piece as we found out this past weekend! Thankfully it was way right so the route is intact. I think the last move can be a little stout!


Location: AL : Sand Rock : Sun Wall : Sneakers (5.10a)
By: Geissler Golding When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: Clipping the first bolt is very spicy! In retrospect, I'd stick-clip it next time. The route offers crimps with smears, slab, airy exposed arete moves, small roof and even a couple of good thin and strong face moves up top... Pretty happy to have returned to it. Note: the shuts (open) are fairly rusted, thankfully some well-meaning steward has placed two shiny new bolts w/ a chain and rap-ring - all super new.


Location: AL : Sand Rock : Grotto : Three's Company (5.10c)
By: Geissler Golding When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: Was just there on Oct 5th. The route is chopped - only one open 'shut' remains (solid.) I presume it's being re-bolted. Although you 'could' technically top-rope it on the single anchor - you may want to skip until it's set up again...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mine Hole Crag : Sofa Kingdom (5.10)
By: Geissler Golding When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: Just did this a couple of hours ago. Very fun face climbing, but I want to highlight there's a loose block precariously at the top to the left of the anchors. I could tell that if someone pulls on it lay-back style they will dislodge it and put the belayer in danger. I put a big chalk X on it, but that won't last long.


Location: AL : Steele : Vineland (5.9+)
By: Geissler Golding When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: Just did it this past weekend, definitely a good meaty 5.9

We met someone on the crag who said it was a 'little run-out' in the middle and to definitely take a #1 cam (i.e. a mixed route). I took up 3 pieces and used all three. I'd recommend taking 3-4 mid-to-small pieces to ensure you can protect that 'above the vines' section.

Top of this (like the bottom) offers up some enjoyable movement and the final person-sized hueco is super fun.

I used a 60m rope and it 'kissed' the ground, but... more >>


Location: TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North : Slip Stream (5.7+)
By: Geissler Golding When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: In a way I'm kind of glad I didn't read all the comments before I climbed this as it may have made me think there was some hidden difficulty I couldn't see... True the first 2 or 3 moves are non-trivial but with a little patience you can slot a good piece for protection and move through. In the end, I'd suggest you look at the start for yourself and call it at that time.

I found the route quite enjoyable and the spice at the bottom certainly helps the overall flavor! Only thing I regret is not ... more >>


Location: AL : Sand Rock : The Hole : Price is Right (5.11a PG13)
By: Geissler Golding When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Yes, excellently bolted. This route is a classic. The first time I ever got on it I melted off the anchors and, well, the phrase "come on down!" resonated with me...


Location: AL : Sand Rock : Grotto : First Black In Office (5.9)
By: Geissler Golding When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: I saw this line on my way to "Three's company" one day and mentioned it to Johnny Arms (who had seen it before) as he was with us that morning he quickly set up a top-rope and we discovered it had some nice moves and interesting features. First ascent went to Aubry D. who got to name it - 'technically' the route's name should be "First Black in Office" as a play on the alternate name for "Windows" at Sun wall "First Black in Space".

By the next trip up Johnny had already bolted it!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : Outer Gates : Monastic Groove (5.8)
By: Geissler Golding When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: Great line, super fun route, well worth doing on any visit. Bolted just right to make you 'climb' the last +20ft, well done.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : Outer Gates : Crystal Staircase (5.7 R)
By: Geissler Golding When: Aug 14, 2011

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Comments: Just climbed this route and yes it's run-out (even after the 4th bolt), but it now sports an anchor (2 new bolts/hangers).
"G" after setting up a TR on the staircase....
"G" after setting up a TR on the staircase....



Location: AL : Sand Rock : Holiday Block : Rabies (5.11a)
By: Geissler Golding When: Jun 14, 2011

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Comments: Yes, this route is referred to as "Underdog" in the Dixie Cragger. My perception from speaking to the locals that it should be Rabies. I just did this in April 2011 and can confirm pretty much all the bolts (except the crux) are rusty - to me the route goes 5.9ish until the crux which I think is rated appropriately for the area (and has a new bolt!).