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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Zagnut (5.11c)
By: Geir Hundal When: 5 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Way to go putting up such a hard climb in this new area! Keep up the good work!
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Hot Tamale (5.10b/c)
By: Geir Hundal When: 5 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: ccmski wrote: Daryl- Where does the PG-13 come from? 11 bolts in less than 100 feet of climbing to the 1st anchors...
Possible explanations:
1) All bolts are in the first 50 feet,
2) Elves unclip the bolts at random intervals,
3) Half of the bolts are "trick bolts" attached only with velcro.
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon
By: Geir Hundal When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: That goes for all areas. Please, folks, burn your TP or pack it out. Few things are as disgusting as soiled TP laying all over the place.
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Shmotem Pole : Photo
By: Geir Hundal When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: hahaha joe! can't wait 'til you come out and check out this place. :)
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Shmotem Pole : Photo
By: Geir Hundal When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: The new route is being developed by Jon Ruland, Mike Dudley, and Christian Rodenbeck. They have already spent a long time meticulously cleaning and toproping the route so it comes out just right. From what Jon says, it will be done in a few weeks. The arete looks amazing and it has the potential to be a great addition to LDE. Keep up the good work guys!
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Muttonhead : Mystery of the Desert (5.9)
By: Geir Hundal When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: be aware there is no gear for the first 15' or so of pitch 1 on 5.8 terrain. a safer alternative is to start on the bolted route immediately to the right of mystery, and then traverse left on to mystery after the 3rd bolt.
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Climbology Area : Accelerated Climbology (5.9)
By: Geir Hundal When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of my favorite routes in LDE. With the addition of the new rappel anchors, the route can now be done with one 60 meter rope. The climb has interesting moves and goes on and on - and the bulge at the end of the climb delivers a great kick in the butt. The summit is terrific. Don't miss this one.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : North Fin : Nancy's Crack (5.9 PG13)
By: Geir Hundal When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Ugh.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Beaver Wall : Golden Beaver (5.12+) : Photo
By: Geir Hundal When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice helmet Eric! If you want to borrow my lightening bolt helmet to help you send, let me know!
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : The Climb Too Tough To Die (5.10a PG13)
By: Geir Hundal When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: A detailed topo for this climb is now available. You can download the topo using the following links:
http://www.geir.com/sheepshead%20w.pdf
http://www.geir.com/sheepshead%20w%20photoguide.pdf
The topo for this wall is still under development. If you see anything that needs to be corrected, or would like to see any changes, feel free to contact me through MP. Topos for many other Stronghold climbs can be found at http://www.geir.com/climbs.html.
Enjoy!
Geir
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Beaver Wall : Hebe (5.14-)
By: Geir Hundal When: Nov 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: MAYBE DO IT!
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE)
By: Geir Hundal When: Nov 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: To make descents safe and convenient, most of the rappel anchors in LDE have been updated to bolts have quick links and carabiners attached (see the photo above). This eliminates the need to thread the ropes and simplifies descent. Eric Rhicard and Jim Scott have been using this anchor style on Mount Lemmon for several years and it has worked very well.
NOTE: the carabiners are part of the anchor, not booty. Please leave them in place. If they are removed the quick links will be in the... more >>
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : End Pinnacle : Endgame (5.10a)
By: Geir Hundal When: Nov 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Justin-
Try the upper variation to Endgame off its third pitch. In my opinion it's the best pitch on the wall. Very exposed and stellar climbing!
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Climbology Area : Accelerated Climbology (5.9)
By: Geir Hundal When: Nov 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I cannot confirm the identity of the person who forgot the batteries. Doing so would be too embarrassing. :)
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Lunchbox : ... : Photo
By: Geir Hundal When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: LOL!
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
By: Geir Hundal When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: eMurdock wrote: The Sheepshead is like a vertical track. Lots of bolts and all fixed belays. At one time I was not a big fan of the development but now I just view it for what it is: a speed climbing venue. Where else can you climb so much on a big cliff in a stellar location with a super light rack and a really low risk level?
Eric,
I agree that the high number of heavily bolted routes on the Sheepshead do make it a speed climbing venue.
However, I personally dislike the proximity... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Beaver Wall : Golden Beaver (5.12+) : Photo
By: Geir Hundal When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: glad to hear that you're gonna cave and use a helmet for this one, eric. i've taken care of a lot of head-injured patients over the years - now i'm so concerned about head injuries that i use a helmet to walk around my house.
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Climbology Area : Accelerated Climbology (5.9)
By: Geir Hundal When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Marcy and I will be changing the rappel shortly - actually we already went to do it, but someone forgot the batteries for the drill...
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Shmotem Pole : The Shmotem Pole (5.10b)
By: Geir Hundal When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Marcy and I did a bunch of cleaning on this route this past weekend and added a new rappel anchor from the top as well as a new belay stance for the third pitch. The route's cleaning up really well and is a lot of fun.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Beaver Wall : Golden Beaver (5.12+) : Photo
By: Geir Hundal When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Eric Richard wrote: When the beaver bites back
Now that's a funny line!
I watched the fall - glad you came through OK Eric!
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Location: WA : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : The Feathers : Photo
By: Geir Hundal When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stunning photo!
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Photo
By: Geir Hundal When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: this is "toofast's tidepool". in hot weather, toofast makes regular trips down to this stream to cool off. as more and more climbers (and their dogs) have visited LDE, toofast's new friends have had fun there, too.
until this spring, the water was flowing and really clean. hopefully marcy's right and the stream will get recharged in the winter wet season.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Everlasting Gobstopper (5.10b/c)
By: Geir Hundal When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: isn't it forbidden to put up a stronghold route rated 11a or harder unless you've been climbing there for more than 10 years? :)
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Firstday Tower : Photo
By: Geir Hundal When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: it was "white helmet day" at LDE.
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Microskunk Area : ... : Photo
By: Geir Hundal When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: i smoked but i didn't inhale.
the first bolt has since been removed per suggestions of our friends who repeated this route.
:)
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