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Member Since: Jun 7, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Geir

Point Rank: # 141
Total Points: 3,331
Last Year: 113
Last 30 Days: 1
72 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Geir been climbing?










Contributions


All 2573 | Routes 68 | Areas 20 | Photos 327 | Page Improvements | Comments 716 | Posts 936 | Stars 347 | Ratings 159
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Morrell's Wall Parking Lot : Xerxes (5.9 R)
By: Geir When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: Sorry to see this Greg. Bummer that the OP didn't just write his own description.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold
By: Geir When: Mar 25, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Andrew, I will be glad to look into this further. It would be best to honor the restrictions as posted by the FS until this is clarified. Check out climbaz.com for background on the closures.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Knights of the Wrong Tissue (5.12a/b)
By: Geir When: Feb 25, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the hard work Luke. I will have my bolt puller in town shortly and hopefully it will help make the work easier.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Knights of the Wrong Tissue (5.12a/b)
By: Geir When: Feb 17, 2015

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Comments: Yeah Luke!!!

Do you have any before/after pics? Thanks!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Uncarved Block (5.11b/c R)
By: Geir When: Feb 14, 2015

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Comments: Jim said that he did the second ascent with Bill Hatcher. Chip repeated the route in 1985 - I will have to ask him who is partner was. Aleix Serrat-Capdevila and I also climbed it last October. I do not know of any other ascents, although I would not be surprised if DDC has done it.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : The Wasteland : The Wasteland (5.8)
By: Geir When: Feb 5, 2015

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Comments: It's about personal taste I think. For those that like the challenge of the route finding and anchor building this climb is stellar. I really like it a lot.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : Forgotten Wall, Control Tow...
By: Geir When: Jan 11, 2015

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Comments: A Google Earth file showing the approach can be found at this link:

geir.com/googleearth/lemmon/

Enjoy!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Be All, End All (5.11+)
By: Geir When: Jan 6, 2015

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Comments: hey climberz,

The two old rusted bolts were the original anchor. The newer bolt and chain was added in order to make an easy lower off from the first pitch; this was done by the same person who swapped the Metolius rap hanger on to the remaining old bolt.

Fortunately, failures of the old 3/8" split shafts have been rare to this point. Still, they will be swapped out as quickly as possible.

The good news is that it is possible to pull these bolts cleanly, re-drill the hole to 1/2",... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Be All, End All (5.11+)
By: Geir When: Jan 5, 2015

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Comments: Hey Daryl,

I think that is part of the problem. The hanger was stainless. My understanding is that the original hangers on this climb were swapped out in 1996, so there was 19 years for mixed metal problems to run their course.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Be All, End All (5.11+)
By: Geir When: Jan 1, 2015

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Comments: Hey climberz,

Glad you are OK.

That bolt was one of the original 3/8" split shafts. It was a commonly-placed bolt in the Stronghold during the time of the FA of this route. In many cases, the Leeper hangers that were originally used were later replaced with newer hangers.

Steve Grossman reported at the Granitica Festival in March 2014 that some of these aged bolts are prone to failure in a fashion similar to what you are describing. I and others are working on replacing these bolts@SEMICO... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Cochise Dome (What's My Lin... : Double Jeopardy (5.10+ R)
By: Geir When: Dec 29, 2014

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Comments: Fixed. Thanks Steve!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : The Labyrinth (5.9)
By: Geir When: Dec 18, 2014

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Comments: This is definitely an adventure route with some unusual climbing. A good portion of the terrain is 3rd and 4th class but there is a burly chimney pitch and a few other surprises to figure out. PM me if you are interested in more beta on this one.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Moms Rock (5.11)
By: Geir When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: I saw a bunch of wasps up there as well last week. Be cautious!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Photo
By: Geir When: Nov 2, 2014

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Comments: Amazing photo!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Layer Cake (5.11d)
By: Geir When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: another slice LOL :)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Reef Break (5.11+)
By: Geir When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Hey Charles!

The second pitch is solid .11. The crux is close to the end of the pitch.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : Photo
By: Geir When: Sep 12, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the information Benjamin! I wasn't aware of this.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Rapture of the Steep (5.10)
By: Geir When: Aug 8, 2014

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Comments: That's what was meant Jon, although there is a sneaky placement for a .75" cam that can offer better protection for the roof. :)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Steve's Arete (5.11a)
By: Geir When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: To designate something as classic I usually consider if the climb is historically significant, striking in appearance, has good rock, and is fun to climb. The climb's length is not super important to me.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Photo
By: Geir When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: Jaws! 5.8 off width to squeeze chim. Very fun!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Doubt (5.14a)
By: Geir When: Aug 2, 2014

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Comments: Hey Ryan, I think what Fred suggested was meant as an alternative to chiseling if there is a section of blank rock on a new climb. I'll ask him the next time I talk to to him if he doesn't chime in here.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : In Search of Silence [Var] (5.13b)
By: Geir When: Jun 5, 2014

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Comments: If there is a killer linkup that people want to name on MP, that is fine by me. Eric can sort it out and put things into the guide however he sees fit. In my view it makes most sense to make note of linkups in the description/comments for the original routes.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Climb With A View (5.13)
By: Geir When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: Modern bolts are around 5000+ pounds for shear, depending on the bolt. The new School of Rock on MP has a description for how to pull drop-ins so the same hole can be reused. There are a lot of drop-ins around here on old routes so I was psyched to learn this technique.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Isle of You : Grad Rock
By: Geir When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: No problem. The offer still stands, PM me if you want me to mail some down.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Isle of You : Grad Rock
By: Geir When: Apr 4, 2014

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Comments: Just kidding you about the book Angel. I am so sorry that somebody took that stuff. I always worry a little bit about stashing gear but it sucks to see stashes being stolen. I have a few extra bolts that I can give you to help offset your loss.


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