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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Eastertime Too (5.8)
By: gblauer When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: A very fun climb. Well protected.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : As the cliff turns (5.8)
By: gblauer When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmmm...I thought the first crux was nineish, second crux equally so. I really enjoyed the climb, but, I did think it was 9ish with two cruxes.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Day Tripper (5.8)
By: gblauer When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb! Chimney moves were fun, roof exit was fun. (You have to find the secret hold, then it's pretty easy pull over the roof)
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : c. Moe (closure) to Harvest... : Boston Tree Party (5.8 PG13)
By: gblauer When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found the face above the overhang to be very thin, tricky climbing. I enjoyed Daytripper and As the Cliff Turns better.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Ewephoria (5.7)
By: gblauer When: Dec 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: For this gunks climber (in other words...very slab inexperienced), I found this climb somewhat more difficult than 5.7. We finished on A climb to tough to die...nice and exposed.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Unknown (right of stampede) (5.10a)
By: gblauer When: Dec 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tough route for this gunks climber. So much slab, so few roofs! Very enjoyable, each pitch different and sustained.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Cracker Jack (5.10c/d)
By: gblauer When: Dec 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Burly, fun, sustained climbing. Enjoyed the finish moves over the headwall.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Good and Plenty(first route... (5.7)
By: gblauer When: Dec 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb. Gee, that bolt looked really far away...fear not, the climbing is easy. lots of fun.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Peanut Brittle (5.9+)
By: gblauer When: Dec 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thought this was an amazing route. Felt 10ish to me. For this shorty, it had lots of blind moves. Great little roofy type finish. Loved it.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Bunny (5.6)
By: gblauer When: Oct 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great climb for a new leader (roof or walk around the roof). Lots of gear, great stances, no route finding, rings and slings on the tree. To me, this is a great little climb.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Art's Route (5.9)
By: gblauer When: Oct 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a great climb! As a second, I was able to watch my leader navigate crux two. Without that, I think I would have been scratching my head for a long time...hard to figure the 9 exit. Burly and hard for the nine rating.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Casanova (5.9)
By: gblauer When: Oct 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice face climbing (a couple of 5.7ish spots) leads to a burly traverse. I think the traverse is harder if shorter. Well protected. We rapped off a tree to the far left, a 70M rope had us back on the ground.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Footloose (5.8)
By: gblauer When: Oct 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux is right off the ground. Seemed well protected. We did not rap off the bush in the corner. We traversed left to the Tennish Anyone rap. We backed up the tree while toproping Tennish, but, eventually rapped off without a backup. Reckless? I hope not!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Fancy Free (5.8+)
By: gblauer When: Oct 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun climbing. The corner is mild, but it leads to a deviously thin traverse. It's all there! Threaded rap station was in good shape as of October 2012
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Oscar and Charlie (5.7)
By: gblauer When: Sep 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I very much enjoy P1.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Ribs (5.4)
By: gblauer When: Sep 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just don't like this climb. There, I said it. (I don't know why I don't like it)
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Something Interesting (5.7+)
By: gblauer When: Sep 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yikes, I missed the pin at the second crux. I was looking all around for it and it was gone! Stupidly, I didn't stop to place gear, I climbed through a couple more moves then placed some pro in a great horizontal. Lack of pin threw me off a bit!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Walter Mitty (5.8+)
By: gblauer When: Sep 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thin, sustained face climbing. Sometimes hard to protect. Walk off the uberfall descent. Good climb, rarely occupied.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Junior (5.9+ R)
By: gblauer When: Sep 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: One move wonder. It's a technical, balancey move particularly for a shorty. Once you make the move the climb backs way down.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6)
By: gblauer When: Jun 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where in the world can you find a 6 better than this? P1/2 are blah and boring for me.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Moonlight (5.6)
By: gblauer When: Jun 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I find this a somewhat serious climb for a 5.6. If you blow the traverse on P2, you are looking at an ugly fall back into the corner. The crack is beautiful, though.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Cold Turkeys (5.9+ PG13)
By: gblauer When: Jun 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 is surprisingly fun, interesting and worth doing. Quite exposed during and after the crux.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Le Teton (5.9+)
By: gblauer When: Jun 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: very exposed. Nice burly jug haul at the end. Fun.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Mr. P's Wurst (5.8)
By: gblauer When: Jun 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We linked P2 and P3. I thought the move over the roof (supposedly 7ish) was much harder than a 7. It was a long reach for me. I wanted to like this climb and I really didn't like it. From the ground it looks great, in reality it was just ok. Will do it again, perhaps I was missing something the first time.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Anguish (5.8 PG13)
By: gblauer When: Jun 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did P1 and really enjoyed it. Interesting move out of the corner, on to the face.
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