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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall
By: gatch When: Jul 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tried to get on 'Fountain of Youth' today, clipped the first bolt the veers off of 'Sonic Youth', pulled around the arete, and saw 2 bolts with no hangers and a sizeable runout with difficult moves. Anyone have info as to why these bolts are 'naked'? More curious than anything.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Freischutz : The Horn (5.13+)
By: gatch When: Jan 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That boulder problem is really hard! Cool positioning, though, and fun to work. Gotta get stronger to put this beast down.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Slave to the Rhythm (5.13b)
By: gatch When: Dec 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Peter!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Slave to the Rhythm (5.13b)
By: gatch When: Dec 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know if this wall gets good sun during the winter? Need something other than Clear Creek to stay psyched right now. Thanks!
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Starlight (5.12d)
By: gatch When: Oct 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: With all the talk of gear vs bolts, I'm now confused. Is this rig fully bolted or is some natural pro still necessary to supplement the bolts? I don't really care who has sent it in what style, just want to know what to expect if and when i get down there to try this thing. For what it's worth, it looks stellar!
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Motherlode : Rocket Dog (5.12b)
By: gatch When: Oct 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: stick clipping the 2nd on this isn't a bad idea. you end up having to climb pretty far left of the bolt, and blowing that clip wouldn't yield very good results. just my 2 cents.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Choss Family Robinson (5.11c) : Photo
By: gatch When: Jun 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I actually wanted it for my own collection. Selfish, I know, but a biner in this exquisite condition deserves to be used on my projects not the anchors of everyone's warmups. I think i'll put it on the crux draw, so I can take repeated wingers on it.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Deer Creek Crag : Photo
By: gatch When: May 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Talking with Matt and Josh, apparently the 12 didn't originally have anchors, other than where your route ends way up and left. That would have been heinous to climb over all that shit to get some chains clipped!
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Deer Creek Crag : Photo
By: gatch When: May 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: To Jables, just FYI, talked to Matt Lloyd, and The Highwayman actually does finish on those upper anchors. That was how it was done on the FA. That's cool that pump and the pendulum stops at the lower anchor, but to truly do his route, gotta go to the top. Not that I'm strong enough for that, anyway.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Buttonrock : ... : Old Yellar (5.13a)
By: gatch When: Apr 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was up there today, 4.4.10, and my friend broke off the the low crux undercling. It still goes but is harder. Between that hold and the high crimp having broken a while back, this thing now feels more 13b than 13a.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Public Solitude (5.13) : Photo
By: gatch When: Apr 3, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's me trying to hold that side-sloper.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Profile Wall : Mouse Meat (5.10-)
By: gatch When: Mar 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb will serve its purpose (a warm up) once it really cleans up. Feet were pretty scaly, and there were still some loose blocks. We reefed one off today, about the size of a brick. The movement at the top was def fun, but down low it was hard to read.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Profile Wall : Stuffed Wolf (5.13b)
By: gatch When: Mar 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Darren - we didn't have a whole lot of time up there yesterday, so warmed up bolt to bolt on Stuffed Wolf. Going back up today, gonna give your warm up a run. I'll let you know how it goes.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Profile Wall : Stuffed Wolf (5.13b)
By: gatch When: Mar 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: What an amazing route! Difficult from start to finish, and literally right from the first move. This is going to be a fight to send this thing. Brilliant moves and brilliant positioning. Kudos to those that have linked this rig. Feels hard in the grade.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Deer Creek Crag : The Road Less Traveled (5.13a/b)
By: gatch When: Mar 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! Good work bolting and sending this thing, Jables. Deceptively pumpy, and crazy fun. Looking forward to linking this one. The movement is just plain good.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Public Solitude (5.13) : Photo
By: gatch When: Feb 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Goddamn! I'm trying hard in this photo. That one you got a little higher up was pretty awesome, too! 'Show me your war face!!!!!'
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Relative To Standing (5.11-) : Photo
By: gatch When: Jan 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Def a good addition for warming up...those are some pretty inobvious holds and movements. Made me think and gave me a good pump. Thanks for the hard work, time and money invested in bolting some new lines for us to play around on.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Buttonrock : ... : Redneck Hero (5.12a)
By: gatch When: Nov 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Such an amazing route, def the best of the grade I've been on in the Front Range.
Just curious what it is like to belay a fall on this rig...everyone I have gone up there with has flashed or onsighted it, so I have never had to worry about it. Seems like it could be harsh when you're anchored in. Anyone have any stories to share?
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Deer Creek Crag : Unknown aka The Pump and Th... (5.12b)
By: gatch When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a great route! Def packs a punch for how short it is. Unfortunately, the flexy crimp jug by the 3rd bolt ripped off the wall today. It was nice to clip off of, for sure. The route isn't any harder, you just have to clip low or even higher than before. My climber took a good winger when that thing came out....
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Arsenal : Debaser (5.12d) : Photo
By: gatch When: Sep 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey, that's me! It's nice to see that someone got a good shot of me on that climb.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Dasani (V5-6)
By: gatch When: Nov 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Also known as "Dasani". Wicked cool problem, seems like there are a few options at the start and for the huck/swing.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : Fission aka Ken T'ank (5.12c)
By: gatch When: Nov 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux is tough if you're shorter. At 5'7", it was a 3 points off dyno to the sloper. Felt low percentage. Quite stoked to send. Just out of curiosity, is there different beta other than: left hand on the 'block crimp' above the bad jug and right hand on the crimp undercling, work feet up as high as possible, then huck?
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Power Trip (5.12a)
By: gatch When: Aug 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Replaced the anchor biners today, 8.28.08. The old ones were pretty worn through, one of them about 1/3 of the way.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Sonic Youth (5.13a)
By: gatch When: Aug 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a great route! The first 'rest' is awful for those of us that are short (5'7"), and the second 'rest' pumps out your calves. Barely got anything back. Made it that much sweeter to hang that finishing jug on link. This rig was well worth the effort.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Centerfold (5.9+)
By: gatch When: May 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Led first pitch sometime last year, went out to work Ten Digit last week and top roped through the 2nd pitch and found the largest pile of bat crap I have ever seen. And you have to get disturbingly close to it to continue making progress. I think it bubbled a few times. Sounds funny until it's right there in front of you...gross.
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