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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Hellgate, Main Cliff : Marbellous (5.10d)
By: Gary Olsen When: Nov 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: James,
First of all thanks for snagging that old fixed line off the cliff. My bad. I put that up myself after Marbellous was completed, in the fall of 1988. I was going to rap bolt a pitch to the right off of the top of the first pitch for a more direct second pitch. Then the weather hit and I moved away. So thanks again for removing the tat.
Marbellous was put up in three days, all ground-up by Bret R and I. On the second pitch I hung off a hook to place one of the bolts and Bret R added ... more >>
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Location: AR : Sam's Throne and Surroundin... : Sam's Throne : East Main Bluff : The Prow & Reality Wall : SuperNatural (5.12)
By: Gary Olsen When: Jul 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great job jer and nice write-up. This was an example of a route that could have been done in a different style (rapp and drill) but fortunately, those who came before realized that true adventure was only to be had in the style that you did it in. To me this is the reason why some ground up areas should remain ground up. So that future generations can experience what you did. Great job!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Margin for Air Wall and Env... : Margin for Air (5.10a)
By: Gary Olsen When: Jun 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for sharing your stories, be careful out there! Bret and I had a non-eventful time on the FA; however, we also were climbing within our abilities. If was a ground up FA so we didnt know how hard it was going to be but it went just fine. During that erea falling was sometimes a scary proposition, and on some of the routes from that time, it still is a scary proposition.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Half-A-Finger (5.9+)
By: Gary Olsen When: Sep 2, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is a cool climb. Dont sweat it, now you can go back and go left, but I fail to see that there is a right or wrong way.
Historical Note: The way left on the finger used to have a BFJ (Big F***ing Jugg), but it broke off in the mid 1980's.
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Location: Press Release by CCH
By: Gary Olsen When: Sep 1, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: John,
where did you get this press release? RC.com? ST?
I did not see it on their website.
I work at a place that has extreme hazards and many different systems to safeguard against potentially devastating accidents to the community. Incidents are fully investigated and disclosed. Corrective actions are implemented. As an engineer I tell my peers that I am a "show me" type engineer. Dont, tell me how good things are, dont tell me what I want to hear.
SHOW ME. Give me some hard facts.
... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : Better than Bitter (5.10b)
By: Gary Olsen When: Aug 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dont take my previous comments as a negative on this route. Certainly seems like this route is fun and popular; whereas, split seam was a scare fest.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : CoalPit Buttress : Stiffler's Mom (5.11a)
By: Gary Olsen When: Aug 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tony, James is right. Hanging off a hook or sling or whatever aint the same as rapp bolting, not by a long shot. Guess Mr. Bachar should have just rapp bolted that thing in Tuolumne he did with Mr. Yerian.
Sounds like Tim and party messed up.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : Goldenfingers Wall : Goldenfingers (5.10b R)
By: Gary Olsen When: Aug 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually, Goldenfingers was first climbed by Smoot and Ellison. Stone they Rejected and the route left of Goldenfingers were soloed on the FA by some young punk out seeking the meaning of life. Those ascents were not widely reported and some climbers with more sense bolted them not knowing that they had been previously ascended.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Gully of Higher Education
By: Gary Olsen When: Aug 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The gully itself was named the Gully of Higher Education after the first route that M.Bitter put up, I think it is called Ms. Luvalle Cranks a Thesis, 11d or 12a protected by two full sets of RPs. I think that was the 1st route in the gully. The other names just followed with that theme (or at least they did in the old days).
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : Better than Bitter (5.10b)
By: Gary Olsen When: Jun 3, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi,This route follows a very similar line to a route done ground up, no bolts in about 1985 or so, by yours truly. Check out the Guide it is called Split Seam. Doesnt look exactly like it but kind of squeezed. Just thought you should know.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Fin Arete (5.10b R)
By: Gary Olsen When: Apr 13, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi,"sport climbing at its loosest?" Tell that to Brian and Jonathon Smoot who vetured up there on lead to drill those bolts not really knowing if there would be adequate stances, not knowing just how hard it could be. I may be too old school, but to me, sport climbs denote rappel and drill routes that are done that way primarily for safety sakes. This is what you call old school slab. The definitions of these may elude some people but it is very important to know. Gary
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Penitentiary Wall : Minimum Security (5.10a R)
By: Gary Olsen When: Mar 3, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi, I hope the comment about bolting it means the old spinner. If it is the one I placed in 1984 someone ought to yank that sucker and sink a fatty. Otherwise I hope the route remains the same to make leaders think about gear. Have Fun and be safe!
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