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Rock Climbing Photo: Profile pic taken at Muir Beach.


Member Since: Jul 26, 2010
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
Contact Gary N

Point Rank: # 1,421
Total Points: 546
Last Year: 65
Last 30 Days: 0
31 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Gary N been climbing?










Contributions


All 898 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos 90 | Page Improvements | Comments 36 | Posts 62 | Stars 645 | Ratings 59
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : West Side
By: Gary N When: Jun 3, 2016

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Comments: Dehydrated Lemon

Listed as an M6 dry tooling route under CO Ice & Mixed. Put up by Steve Elder.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Valhalla (5.12+)
By: Gary N When: May 3, 2016

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Comments: How about cable draws on all of the bolts?

If it's possible to camouflage the draws, I've got some great spray paint. I'll even hang 'em if needed.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Direct to Sweeney's (5.11a R)
By: Gary N When: Jan 29, 2016

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Comments: Fun. I climbed it to the anchors of Texas Sucks/Easy to Remember. I found appropriate gear the entire way: a yellow C3 deep in a pocket just after pulling up onto the no-hands rest, and a 0.4 C4 on the top part of Easy to Remember. Will definitely do again.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : ... : Photo
By: Gary N When: Jan 7, 2016

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Comments: If you look closely, it looks like the rope is between his leg and the rock. I think it just lines up with the line his rolled-up pants makes. Hmmm.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Telluride : Ames Wall : Belly of the Beast (WI5+ M6-7 C1 X)
By: Gary N When: Dec 10, 2015

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Comments: "In the event that you canÂ’'t find the top of the hose or you reach the top after dark (which is likely)..."

Yeah...so bring yer friggen' headlamp, so you don't have to climb the last pitch and do the entire descent with an iPhone shoved in-between your helmet and head with the flashlight on....

Good times. Heard there was a repeat attempt on it, would love to hear how it went and if there are plans to go back for another round.


Location: CO : Durango : Fume Wall : Fume Wall Right
By: Gary N When: Jun 19, 2015

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Comments: Nice couch at the base of Beginner's Luck...makes the place look like a dump, paired with all the trash at the parking area.

I wonder how much longer we'll be allowed to climb here?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Telluride : Ames Wall : Belly of the Beast (WI5+ M6-7 C1 X) : Photo
By: Gary N When: May 20, 2015

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Comments: The line follows the rope down into the snow/rock bands, around the corner to the right, and into the chimney system where you can see the south-facing bare rock band.

I believe your last piece of pro is not in view in this picture, that's how far down it is. Yikes.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Eagle Dance (5.10b/c A0+)
By: Gary N When: Jan 3, 2015

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Comments: I laughed when I saw that bolt sticking that far out of the rock. I wiggled it around and didn't feel very confident in it. There was a good BD .5 C4 placement I used instead.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Byrd's : Angel Dust (5.7)
By: Gary N When: Aug 23, 2014

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Comments: Pitch 2 is pretty fun and worth doing at least once. Wish it were longer. Better than pitch 1 in my opinion. We continued up above pitch 2 for a 3rd pitch. Wide hands through an overhanging bulge. Felt 5.10-ish (PG-13).


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Carbuncle Buttress : Riddler's Delight (5.10)
By: Gary N When: Aug 14, 2014

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Comments: I enjoyed the route. Better than I thought it would be with a few memorable pitches. We did the original first pitch to the very top to also enjoy the adventure coming back down. It was a neat experience 'canyoneering' on the descent and passing all the airplane wreckage.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Watch Crystal Crack (5.10d)
By: Gary N When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: Tim,

A 70m rope will for sure work. I run laps on the Watch Crystal Crack and Apes of Wrath with my 60m rope, just barely. Keep in mind this is just to the top of the first pitch anchors, where Apes and WC meet on the nice ledge with the 3 bolted anchor.


Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : West Side : Lemon Peel (5.10) : Photo
By: Gary N When: Jul 3, 2014

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Comments: Got on this yesterday after seeing the new bolts and not knowing what it was. It still has some cleaning up to be done but was really enjoyable. I felt it to be 5.10c. Why are we all commenting on the Lemon main page about it? You should add it to the database, then we can start tracking ticks and getting a true consensus. Great bolting, thanks for the addition!


Location: CO : Durango : Pine River Trad : Rolling Stones Wall : No Expectations (5.9+)
By: Gary N When: Jul 22, 2013

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Comments: Nice job, guys. I look at this wall every time I'm in the area and have been wanting to head up there for a while now. Looks like ya beat me to it! Lots of recent development in this whole area. I love it. It's such a blast. Good ol' adventure climbing in a great area. Excited to check out the route and perhaps add another one to the database!


Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : West Side
By: Gary N When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: Yes, you can just climb up the fixed line to get back up. From there, you can walk back to the top and grab your anchors. It's a short, easy scramble to get up and down the fixed line. About 20'.


Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : West Side
By: Gary N When: Jul 6, 2013

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Comments: Kevin,

It is very easy to get to the top of the cliffs and drop some top-ropes down. There is a trail that heads up towards the top before you get to the fixed line that takes you down.

Enjoy.


Location: CO : Durango : Fume Wall : Fume Wall Right
By: Gary N When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: A new route, 'Unknown 5.10c/d', has been added at the far left end of Fume Wall, just to the left of 'Nine Lives'. A lot of the descriptions are based off of 'Nine Lives', saying "This is the x route from the left." Just a heads up, as things need to be shifted now.

Edit: Thanks for updating this page and all the routes. Everything is in order now.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Double Exposure Direct (5.12 R)
By: Gary N When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: If you're going to top-rope this after leading, be sure to extend the master point over the lip at the top. We had 2 draws on the chains, and they still didn't reach over the edge. Most horrendous rope drag I've ever had. Needed two people to belay. I went up to clean the route after we were done climbing it. Threaded rope through chains and rapped down. Again, it was incredibly difficult to pull the rope. If the chains extended over the edge, it would make things so much better. If I get the ch... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Double Exposure (5.10)
By: Gary N When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for your hard work, Devin. I (we) appreciate all you do for the community. Got on this again since the chains were added and have a few things to say:

If you're going to top-rope this after leading, be sure to extend the master point over the lip at the top. We had 2 draws on the chains, and they still didn't reach over the edge. Most horrendous rope drag I've ever had. Needed two people to belay. I went up to clean the route after we were done climbing it. Threaded rope through chains a... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : Jabba the Hutt Levitates (5.10d)
By: Gary N When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: ***WARNING***

Tried to lead this today. Got up to the flakes and pulled gently on the lowest one. It moved about 4". A bunch of small rocks and dirt came down. I ended up backing off the route. I'm afraid of what will come down if I pull the lower block out. They all look stacked on top of each other. I'll try to head up there again soon and see if I can rap in and have a better look. This may be the end of Jabba levitating.

Edit on 7/2/2013: Rapped in on this thing today. Sent a few big flak... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : Pine River Trad : Tradistan Tower : Nuggernaut (5.8)
By: Gary N When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments: A fun route. I prefer this route over No Country For Old Men. The Nuggernaut offers what I believe to be a more direct line/route finding and more sustained climbing at about the 5.7-5.8 level. Five good pitches of more technical climbing vs. 3 pitches and some scrambling.

A little descent beta: follow cairns from the summit south-east-ish to a bolted rap anchor. Make one single rope rap to a large tree with webbing. From here, make a double rope rap to a small, singular tree with webb... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : Pine River Trad : Tradistan Tower : No Country For Old Men (5.10+)
By: Gary N When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments: A few notes:

Approach - from Nuggernaut, you'll pass a fairly large amphitheater with a huge cave, continue past this one to a smaller amphitheater just 'up and around to the left'. See the photos.

Climb - for pitch two, I believe we were just a tad too far right. A fun line but certainly not 'killer'. I'm excited to go back and check out the actual pitch two, as this certainly looks to be the best pitch of the climb. See the photos. The crux pitch was so-so, too short. After this, we ended up... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : The Switch (5.10)
By: Gary N When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: This route is listed as route 45, 'Unnamed 5.10' in the second edition of Bloom's guide. Good fun. 2.5 stars.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Wigglin' Worm (5.11)
By: Gary N When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: No more blocks and/or flake right off the ground in the wide section. Still nice and dirty though. I placed a #6 Camalot to protect this section.

This route is exactly 35m long. Our 70m made it back to the ground, but the knot at the end of the rope was against the belay device. Tie a knot in the end of the rope if using a 70m!

Fun, interesting, and diverse route. Not an easy 5.11, as Tony B stated earlier, but certainly not runout.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Wish You Were Here (5.10d)
By: Gary N When: Mar 19, 2013

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Comments: Placed two awesome nuts on this fun and interesting route. Be sure to watch the end of your ropes if using a 60m, as it just reaches the ground.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Four Friends (5.10c)
By: Gary N When: Feb 3, 2013

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Comments: Did this route in two pitches as described above. Had major rope drag. Would do it in 3 pitches next time.

The first pitch is nothing to write home about. It is filled with bushes, jaggars, loose rocks, and dirt. After completing the first pitch, I was going to not give this route any stars. I took a variety of gear for pitch one. From #0.3 BD C4 to #4 BD C4 and a set of nuts. I built a gear anchor using two #2 BD C4s and a #3 BD C4. If doing this in one pitch, doubles w... more >>


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