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Member Since: Jan 4, 2011
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Gargano
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Total Points: 1,190
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 785 | Routes 25 | Areas 1 | Photos 180 | Page Improvements | Comments 25 | Posts 39 | Stars 515 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome : Silk Road (High Times) (5.11 PG13)
By: Gargano When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: To reduce rope drag on P8:

Clip the 5th bolt with a long sling and traverse right to clip the 6th bolt.
Then climb back and unclip/backclean the 5th bolt.

This takes a good amount of drag out of the system and makes the final undercling traverse to the anchor a lot smoother.

(P8 per the topo posted above in the photos)


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Cragmont : Lap Dance (5.11-)
By: Gargano When: Apr 22, 2015

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Comments: As for P3, "pretty runout and sandy" describes a decent amount of terrain in Zion. While a bolt might protect the top of P3, it wasn't the intent of the FA party and, overall, it's this aspect of the climbing that makes Zion adventurous and rewarding.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: Gargano When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: No. It's a kink of rope.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Loggerhead Buttress : Conquest of the Stud Monkey (5.10a)
By: Gargano When: Jan 21, 2015

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Comments: Description:

Begin in a low-angle fist crack beneath a large block with a tree growing out of it. Reach a small ledge and climb the right side of the block. A few moves punctuated by solid stances lead to a crack switch. Step right into a water groove. Protection is available at the base of the water groove and then disappears for the next 20+ feet. Climb to a stance at a small ledge and size up the first opportunity for gear that's just out of reach. Make the move and continue through n... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Beastie Boys (5.12d PG13)
By: Gargano When: Dec 9, 2014

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Comments:



Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Widow's Tears Area : Windfall (5.11a)
By: Gargano When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Approach: Park at Wawona Tunnel Lot and walk east, down the road, towards the Valley. You can see the Widow's Tears Amphitheater from the road. The route is on the buttress that forms the right side of the amphitheater.

Look for a large, deep natural drainage down off the right side of the road - it's a ways down the road. Start hiking uphill just past this drainage. Go uphill through trees and mossy boulders until you reach an old roadbed that runs parallel to Highway 41.

A few cai... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : The Sawtooth Ridge : Incredible Hulk
By: Gargano When: Jun 13, 2014

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Comments: Due to marauding bears in Twin Lakes/Mono Village you can no longer store food in the ice house. Consider only bringing food you need for the hike in, or appealing to a RV resident to cache your goods until you come back out.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Bircheff-Williams (5.11b)
By: Gargano When: Jun 5, 2014

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Comments: Lower pin is gone. The scar takes fine gear.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Photo
By: Gargano When: Apr 25, 2014

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Comments: HE'S BACK!


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock : Iron Curtain : Double Top Secret (5.12a)
By: Gargano When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: Climb gingerly is right. Hearing the draw clinking on the hollow-sounding cobble as you yard on it does not instill confidence. Especially since you're pulling on the cobble in the direction of your belayer. Tread lightly.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Stirrup Rock : Stirrup Rock - North Face : Jugular Vein (5.8)
By: Gargano When: Feb 10, 2014

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Comments: There's hardly enough shit up there to warrant the comments above. Juggy traverse to cool moves on a chunky dike. Worth checking out. If you don't belay (and rap) off the Freckle Face anchor, an alternative descent would be to walk 50' down and climbers left to the fixed anchor above Seebolt.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : North Wonderland Approach : ... : Roomis E. Gloomis (5.10d)
By: Gargano When: Feb 10, 2014

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Comments: Engaging route. Good movement on solid rock.
As Susan said, this one really makes you dip into your bag of slab/face/arete tricks.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : North Wonderland Approach : ... : Balance Due (5.10b)
By: Gargano When: Feb 10, 2014

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Comments: Great route offering a nice mix of thin cracks and delicate face. Technical the whole way, but broken by a nice stance at about halfway. The gear in the first section is all bomber, but can be fiddly to place. Brass and small camming units will sew it up. Crux is up high and is well-protected.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass Highway (108) : Table Mountain : The Grotto : To Pin or Not To Be (5.11a)
By: Gargano When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: A nice technical route that's worth checking out. It's well protected and a reasonable lead. Thin bouldery moves between solid stances. Supplement the bolts with cams from 0.6"-1". The route treads left of the bolt line for the most part and is free of moss. If you find yourself peddling on vegetation - reconsider your position.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Challenger (5.10d PG13)
By: Gargano When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Excellent route. Highly recommended. Varied climbing on solid rock.

RPs are good to bring along. Some hybrid cams would be handy in a few key spots.

We rapped Jupiter II with a single 70. No problems. Three raps. The first two are rope stretchers. Fifteen feet of easy down climbing is required on the third to get to the ground.


Location: Nathan Scherneck : The Needles - June 2012 : Photo
By: Gargano When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: That's Don Juan. Looks like the climber in blue is following the crux of P2.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Cynthia's Hand Job (5.10)
By: Gargano When: Apr 2, 2013

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Comments: One 70m will get you down in two raps.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kung Fu Theater : Inner Chi (5.11)
By: Gargano When: Apr 2, 2013

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Comments: One anchor bolt.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Drifting (5.11c PG13)
By: Gargano When: Mar 24, 2013

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Comments: Approach: We approached via the Rose Tower descent gully recommended in Handren. We walked out past Challenger Wall and out the south fork of Pine Creek. I'd recommend approaching via the Pine Creek/Challenger Wall option. It keeps you on flat terrain longer and then rolls up some easy slabs to the base of Jet Stream.

Gear: Didn't find the 3" piece to be crucial. There's smaller protection available throughout the few sections that would take the bigger piece.

Rappel: The first down from t... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 4 - Arch Rock : Dirty Little Secret (5.9)
By: Gargano When: Feb 19, 2013

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Comments: Nice fists in a corner lead to a ledge. Wedged blocks and vegetation lead to a crispy belay tree.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 14 - Cascade Area : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Knuckleheads (5.10c)
By: Gargano When: Oct 30, 2012

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Comments: 9 bolts. Not sure where slings would protect what is not already protected by bolts.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Monday Morning Slab, Harry ... (5.8)
By: Gargano When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: Two single-rope raps with a 70m will get you down. Just barely with stretch on P2.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Dear John Buttress : Rehab (5.11a)
By: Gargano When: Jul 9, 2012

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Comments: Great route. Nice movement through the bottom section on dikes and flaring runnels. Fat rest on a ledge below the crux moves. As said before, the crux takes a bomber medium nut. Short move and you're into the hands. Protects well. Steeper than it appears.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : The May Fly (5.12+)
By: Gargano When: Apr 12, 2011

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Comments:



Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Pratt's Crack (5.9)
By: Gargano When: Jan 7, 2011

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Comments: Here's a trip report from Wide Fetish: idefetish.com/trip_reports/pra...


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