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Member Since: May 13, 2006
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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GabeO
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Point Rank: # 1,933
Total Points: 336
Last Year: 13
Last 30 Days: 0
61 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has GabeO been climbing?










Contributions


All 542 | Routes 10 | Areas 1 | Photos 26 | Page Improvements | Comments 91 | Posts 287 | Stars 95 | Ratings 32
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Scarface (5.11) : Photo
By: GabeO When: Jul 10, 2015

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Comments: LOL, makes it look like a sustained tips crack!


Location: CT : Central Valley : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Right Edge (5.7 R)
By: GabeO When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for fixing the protection rating. There's decent protection for the first half, but none on the second; if you blow the crux, you'll blow your ankles for sure.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Bird Cage (5.10b)
By: GabeO When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: I agree with Moritz B: The corner is sustained and technical. 9+ or 10- for sure.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Black Corridor : Photo
By: GabeO When: May 8, 2015

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Comments: Ouch. Way over-processed. Hurts my eyes.


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Vertigo (5.9 A0 R) : Photo
By: GabeO When: Jan 28, 2015

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Comments: IIRC, you switch sides when the crack switches directions.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Phantasia : Pogue Ethics (5.9+)
By: GabeO When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: Left bolt in the anchors is loose. I hand-tightened it, but the hanger doesn't sit perfectly flat, so it wiggles a little. Someone with a torque wrench (or an experienced arm) should go up with a wrench to fix it properly.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Cathole Mountain : Main Walls : Elegant Monkey (5.6)
By: GabeO When: Aug 26, 2014

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Comments: Definitely significantly harder than 5.6 if you avoid all the teetering blocks on this. Both my partner and I thought this was harder than Pegasus.


Location: CT : Central Valley : Cathole Mountain : Main Walls : White Fandango (5.9)
By: GabeO When: Aug 26, 2014

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Comments: The loose block at the top of the dihedral is gone. However there is another loose block about 10 or 12 feet above this. This is very unfortunate, since you get no gear through there, and then avoiding that next loose block is a bit cruxy. If you grab that block and it comes out you're looking at a good 15 foot fall onto the ledge, and then another 15 feet (to near groundfall). Be careful.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Chicken Head Ranch : Yellow Dot (5.12b)
By: GabeO When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: I'm not sure if something has broken off. About four or five years ago, I led this route cleanly on my first attempt. Yesterday I could not pull the crux at all, after many attempts. I studied it hard, so I don't think I missed any holds. Perhaps I've just gotten stupider (very possible!).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Bioturbation Wall : Chest Full of Kind (5.10)
By: GabeO When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: Agreed probably more like 10+ now the flake is gone.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Balkan Dirt Diving (5.12a)
By: GabeO When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: Really nice route. One note though: the beginning (especially getting off the ground) is very height-dependent. I'm 5'7" with a plus two ape index, and I was fine, but my wife who is two inches shorter, with a minus one, simply could not reach the left hand from the ground. The only way to have started would've been with a cheater stone, or pull 12c moves.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Hurricane Hinzi (5.11c/d)
By: GabeO When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: If there was a drilled pocket originally, I think it has been filled in. There is one key pocket (that I couldn't fit any of my sausage fingers into) in the crux, but it looks pretty natural to me.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Culp Valley : Windy Boulders : Windy Boulders North : ... : Photo
By: GabeO When: Feb 19, 2014

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Comments: Seems like that top would only work for climbers. Without our big lats, the top would ride up.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Cactus Cliff Addict (5.10d)
By: GabeO When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: Note, the hardware on this route was upgraded on 12/15/2013.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Under A Blood Red Wall (5.11d) : Photo
By: GabeO When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Really nice pic... although I couldn't get that beta to work. Good holds there, but then they ran out. I found going slightly left better.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Under A Blood Red Wall (5.11d)
By: GabeO When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: I think the 11d grade must refer to a different line than the standard one. The description by Richard mentions a seam curving back to Lats, and in the comments section, he mentions finishing at the Lats anchor. The line now finishes at an independent anchor, and IMO, is solid at 5.12a (or a/b).


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Fin City
By: GabeO When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: Going to disagree with other comments. I thought the hike was not bad, and the climbing was all quite pleasant.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Fin City : Kids on Coffee (5.8+)
By: GabeO When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: Lots of tough sizes on this one, but very nice climb. Too bad it's so short.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Fin City : Hands Off (5.9)
By: GabeO When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: I thought this was actually a very good route, with several cruxes, and interesting climbing. It would be classic if it were just a bit longer! Two and a half stars.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Hipster Rock : The Hipster (5.12a)
By: GabeO When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: One of the best routes at the grade in CCC that I've done. I'd only take off a half a star (if I could), as it's short.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Fuel Injected Hardbody (5.12- PG13)
By: GabeO When: Mar 27, 2013

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Comments: If you've got fat fingers, don't even think about it unless you're a 5.12+ climber.


Location: T Roper : various : Photo
By: GabeO When: Dec 6, 2012

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Comments: Pretty sure that's my pic. What's up with that?

GO


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Desert Vuarnet (5.12-)
By: GabeO When: Oct 30, 2012

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Comments: I thought this was very similar to Quarter of a Man. But this felt at least a half letter grade easier.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Dude's Jam Crack (5.11a)
By: GabeO When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: As good or better than Howdy Doody Time and roughly the same difficulty. The best route I've done to date on the crag. 3 1/2 stars.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Dude's Five Nine (5.9)
By: GabeO When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: There appear to be three distinct starts to this line. The one furthest on the left (in the corner/crack) seems to be the most obvious and is the one I did. But it's possible that the one furthest on the right is the one the grade is based upon. The one on the left felt 5.9+/10- to me.


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