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Member Since: May 13, 2006
Last Visit: 4 days ago
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Point Rank: # 1,651
Total Points: 353
Last Year: 52
Last 30 Days: 0
56 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has GabeO been climbing?










Contributions


All 484 | Routes 10 | Areas 1 | Photos 31 | Page Improvments | Comments 83 | Posts 245 | Stars 85 | Ratings 29
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Chicken Head Ranch : Yellow Dot (5.12b)
By: GabeO When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: I'm not sure if something has broken off. About four or five years ago, I led this route cleanly on my first attempt. Yesterday I could not pull the crux at all, after many attempts. I studied it hard, so I don't think I missed any holds. Perhaps I've just gotten stupider (very possible!).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Bioturbation Wall : Chest Full of Kind (5.10)
By: GabeO When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: Agreed probably more like 10+ now the flake is gone.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Balkan Dirt Diving (5.12a)
By: GabeO When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: Really nice route. One note though: the beginning (especially getting off the ground) is very height-dependent. I'm 5'7" with a plus two ape index, and I was fine, but my wife who is two inches shorter, with a minus one, simply could not reach the left hand from the ground. The only way to have started would've been with a cheater stone, or pull 12c moves.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Hurricane Hinzi (5.11c/d)
By: GabeO When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: If there was a drilled pocket originally, I think it has been filled in. There is one key pocket (that I couldn't fit any of my sausage fingers into) in the crux, but it looks pretty natural to me.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Culp Valley : Windy Boulders : Windy Boulders North : ... : Photo
By: GabeO When: Feb 19, 2014

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Comments: Seems like that top would only work for climbers. Without our big lats, the top would ride up.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Cactus Cliff Addict (5.10d)
By: GabeO When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: Note, the hardware on this route was upgraded on 12/15/2013.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Under A Blood Red Wall (5.11d) : Photo
By: GabeO When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Really nice pic... although I couldn't get that beta to work. Good holds there, but then they ran out. I found going slightly left better.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Under A Blood Red Wall (5.11d)
By: GabeO When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: I think the 11d grade must refer to a different line than the standard one. The description by Richard mentions a seam curving back to Lats, and in the comments section, he mentions finishing at the Lats anchor. The line now finishes at an independent anchor, and IMO, is solid at 5.12a (or a/b).


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Fin City
By: GabeO When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: Going to disagree with other comments. I thought the hike was not bad, and the climbing was all quite pleasant.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Fin City : Kids on Coffee (5.8+)
By: GabeO When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: Lots of tough sizes on this one, but very nice climb. Too bad it's so short.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Fin City : Hands Off (5.9)
By: GabeO When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: I thought this was actually a very good route, with several cruxes, and interesting climbing. It would be classic if it were just a bit longer! Two and a half stars.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Hipster Rock : The Hipster (5.12a)
By: GabeO When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: One of the best routes at the grade in CCC that I've done. I'd only take off a half a star (if I could), as it's short.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Fuel Injected Hardbody (5.12- PG13)
By: GabeO When: Mar 27, 2013

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Comments: If you've got fat fingers, don't even think about it unless you're a 5.12+ climber.


Location: MJMobes : various : Photo
By: GabeO When: Dec 6, 2012

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Comments: Pretty sure that's my pic. What's up with that?

GO


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Desert Vuarnet (5.12-)
By: GabeO When: Oct 30, 2012

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Comments: I thought this was very similar to Quarter of a Man. But this felt at least a half letter grade easier.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Dude's Jam Crack (5.11a)
By: GabeO When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: As good or better than Howdy Doody Time and roughly the same difficulty. The best route I've done to date on the crag. 3 1/2 stars.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Dude's Five Nine (5.9)
By: GabeO When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: There appear to be three distinct starts to this line. The one furthest on the left (in the corner/crack) seems to be the most obvious and is the one I did. But it's possible that the one furthest on the right is the one the grade is based upon. The one on the left felt 5.9+/10- to me.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Justify (5.12b)
By: GabeO When: Aug 3, 2012

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Comments: Definitely a good route for someone with good "bouldering" strength. Sadly, that's not me. My fingers felt so weak!


Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Higher Calling (5.11d)
By: GabeO When: Jul 30, 2012

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Comments: Both my partner and I found the third pitch substantially harder than the second. Yes, pitch two has a fair bit of 5.11 climbing but only one really tricky-to-read 5.11+ move. Pitch 3 on the other hand is nearly all 5.11 if you read every move just right, otherwise, off you go. And in order to keep it at the grade you have to wander as much as five or six feet off the bolt line in a number of places. Very unintuitive (not to mention spooky). With that said, this is a good climb.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Punchbowl : Drive By Shooting (5.11d)
By: GabeO When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: By the way, I think the crux is a bit height dependent. If you're taller than me (5.7) there would be an easier way to finish the crux. And the way I did it would be still harder for anyone shorter than me. Although... there were also some moves that were scrunchy for me, so tall folks might have issues too.


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : The Punchbowl : Drive By Shooting (5.11d)
By: GabeO When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: Absolutely superb route. Unfortunately, the bolt spacing is a bit far apart by modern sport standards. This adds to the fun for some (points to self) and detracts for others.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Cool Hand Luke (5.11a)
By: GabeO When: Jul 1, 2012

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Comments: I don't have enough experience at Vedauwoo to feel I can grade this climb accurately, so I'll just add my two cents here, where you can take it or leave it, and it won't go into the MP grading algorithm. I cruised the thin-crack crux (which I'd put at low to mid-5.11). The upper OW crux nearly spit me off, but I'm not a great OW climber. So, I'd give the upper crux 10+/11-. Overall, I'd grade it low to mid-5.11.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Crystal Tower
By: GabeO When: Jun 13, 2012

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Comments: As of 6/12/12, both ropes on the tyrol looked in decent shape, but one was sagging a fair bit, so I tightened it up.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall
By: GabeO When: Jun 13, 2012

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Comments: As of 6/12/12, both ropes on the tyrol looked in decent shape, but one was sagging a fair bit, so I tightened it up.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon
By: GabeO When: Jun 13, 2012

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Comments: On 6/12/12, I tightened up the tyrolean to get to Primo as one of the ropes had gotten quite saggy.


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