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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : Fire It Up (5.10a/b)
By: Gabe Anderson When: May 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. The crack on the upper part of the route is more of a hand crack with some solid jams. I pulled off a loose sidepull just below the 6th bolt, but there are other good holds there to use.
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Location: kirra : anomalistic climbing photos : Photo
By: Gabe Anderson When: Nov 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: aka the "ejaculate and evacuate"
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Location: Mountain Project Bouldering...
By: Gabe Anderson When: May 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: it took 14 moves
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Location: Mountain Project Bouldering...
By: Gabe Anderson When: May 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I turned Gunther into a rock star!
It took me 10 tries
is that the only route you can try without buying it?
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Lover's Leap : Lover's Leap (5.7)
By: Gabe Anderson When: Aug 9, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can do Lover's Leap with just one rope. Last year, in early summer of '03, myself and my partner made 2 rappel stations to the right of the Lover's Leap, 5.7. Go to the top and find the tree with dark colored slings and webbing on it and a quick link. Rap towards the cross and follow down. You will see 2 chained rap stations. This way you don't have to bring up 2 ropes.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Montezuma Tower : North Ridge (5.7)
By: Gabe Anderson When: May 17, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed Montezuma's north ridge yesterday....It was great fun. I felt that the crux of the first pitch was definitely within the first 20-25 feet. Not hard, just unprotected. Surprisingly to me, I got quite a bit of gear in. A #13 stopper, light blue tricam, along with .75 camalot, and a #4 flexcam supplemented the eyebolts and thread all on the first pitch. I'm sure a better climber than I wouldn't need all that gear. Overall very fun route....but made more interesting by a st... more >>
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Scout Rock : Comanche Warrior (5.12-)
By: Gabe Anderson When: Apr 5, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really enjoyed the first pitch of Comm. Warrior. It has two distinct cruxes that both involve long reaches on good holds. Fun short route. The bolts seem to be intelligently located. The only problem is the close proximity to the highway for the belayer.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Lion's Den : Bride (5.7)
By: Gabe Anderson When: Aug 27, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: What an awesome route! Definitely the steepest 5.7 i've done, but on nice positive holds. Great climb.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Direct Route (5.6 R)
By: Gabe Anderson When: May 6, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am told that we must have a rope that's a bit longer than a 50m to have reached the tree belay on the first pitch. Use a 60m to be safe.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Direct Route (5.6 R)
By: Gabe Anderson When: May 5, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this climb on Saturday (5/3/03) and thoroughly enjoyed it. To give some perspective, I've led 5.7, 5.8, and one 5.9, mostly crack and bolted face climbs. I struggled a little on the first pitch but made it through. If you stick to the bolted line, the crux is about 10-15 feet above the 2nd bolt. BTW, you can stretch a 50 m to the tree ledge barely. The only other runout we encountered was at the beginning of the third pitch. It's 20-25 feet to the first pro. After that, pitches 3... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : White Whale (5.7)
By: Gabe Anderson When: Apr 27, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great fun. 2nd pitch is a full rope length if you use a 50 meter rope. Be sure to save some hand/fist pro for the 2nd belay in the small nook left of the roof. The entire route is very well protected. A definite must do.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : West Overhang (5.7)
By: Gabe Anderson When: Apr 21, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great fun. I start angling right to the pin and then climbed back left to a comfortable stem. Plenty of holds. (I'm 5'9"). It was a great feeling to pull over the roof on lead.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Finger Crack (5.9)
By: Gabe Anderson When: Apr 21, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: A lot of fun. Fairly sustained. Great intro to crack climbing.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Scout Rock : Cornered (5.9)
By: Gabe Anderson When: Apr 21, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I enjoyed this climb a lot. It seemed like a 5.6 or 5.7 with the exception of the last, crux move. Well protected.
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